Removing the gearbox on a Nissan Almera Classic: a complete analysis of the process from A to Z

Removing the gearbox Nissan Almera Classic (body B10, 2006–2012) is a task that owners face when making major repairs, replacing a clutch, or troubleshooting a transmission. The process requires not only technical training, but also knowledge design features models: this has its own nuances of attaching the gearbox to the engine, the location of the wiring and hydraulics (for automatic transmission). Unlike more modern Almera G15 or N16, “Classic” has a simplified layout, which simultaneously makes work easier and more difficult - on the one hand, there are fewer electronics, on the other, access to some bolts is difficult.

This article is not just a list of actions, but practical guidance taking into account typical problemsthat arise when removing the gearbox on Almera Classic. We'll look at: mechanics (JR5, RS5F32A) and automatic (RE4F03B), the necessary tools, the procedure for disconnecting the units, as well as critical points that even experienced craftsmen often miss (for example, fixing the flywheel when removing the clutch basket or the correct position of the automatic transmission selector before dismantling). If you plan to do the work yourself, prepare for 6–8 hours of labor (for beginners) and be sure to study the section about common mistakesso as not to repeat them.

Preparing to remove the gearbox: tools and conditions

Before you begin dismantling, make sure you have everything you need. Nissan Almera Classic - a car with a simple design, but to remove the gearbox you will need specialized tool, which may not be in the car owner’s standard kit. Here is the minimum list:

• 🔧 Set of sockets and keys: 10 mm, 12 mm, 14 mm, 17 mm, 19 mm (necessarily with an extension and a cardan for hard-to-reach bolts).
• 🔨 Socket wrench on 32 mm for the hub nut (if you are removing the drives).
• 🛠️ Jack and supports (or lift) - work on the ground is unacceptable due to the risk of the gearbox falling.
• 🔗 Puller for ball joints and steering rods (if you do not plan to disconnect the suspension completely).
• 🔩 Torque wrench (for tightening bolts during reassembly).
• 🧲 Magnetic holder - will save your nerves when working with small bolts in tight places.
• 📦 Container for draining oil (for automatic transmission - at least 5 liters).

Also prepare consumables: new gear oil (for manual transmission - GL-4 75W-90, for automatic transmission - Nissan Matic Fluid D), automatic transmission pan gasket (if you take it off) sealant (For example, Loctite 574 for gearbox flange). Do not use cheap analogues of oils - this is fraught with premature wear of synchronizers (manual transmission) or clutches (automatic transmission).

⚠️ Attention: If you work in a garage without a pit, be sure to use transmission rack or a reliable support for the engine. checkpoint Almera Classic weighs 35–50 kg (depending on the type), and it is almost impossible to keep it suspended when unscrewing the last bolts.

Draining the oil and disconnecting the units: step by step procedure

Before removing the gearbox, it is necessary to free it from all connected systems. Start by draining the oil - this will prevent leaks and contamination of the work area. For manual transmission:

1. Place a container under the drain hole (located on the back of the crankcase).
2. Unscrew the plug with the key to 24 mm (on some versions - on 17 mm).
3. Wait until the oil is completely drained (about 2–2.5 liters).

For automatic transmission the process is more complicated: oil drains through pan, which will have to be removed. It is important here not to lose the magnets (there are 2 of them) and to clean them of metal shavings. Also disconnect the automatic transmission cooling hoses (they go to the radiator) - be prepared for ATF drips.

Next, disable:

• 🔌 Battery (negative terminal first!).
• 🔗 Clutch cable (for manual transmission) or selector lever (for automatic transmission).
• 📡 Speed and reverse indicators (located on the gearbox housing).
• 🔌 Wire harnesses going to the box (remember their location or take a photo).

Drain oil (manual/automatic transmission)

Disconnect battery

Remove the starter (2 14mm bolts)

Disconnect the drives (or hang the engine)

Remove the jet rod and rocker (for manual transmission)

Remove the automatic transmission pan (if required)

Unscrew the gearbox support (3 bolts of 14 mm) -->

Pay special attention starter — it must be removed, as it interferes with the dismantling of the gearbox. The two starter mounting bolts often stick, so treat them in advance WD-40 or similar liquid.

Removing drives and separating the gearbox from the engine

At this stage, many make critical mistakes, which then turn into problems during assembly. For Nissan Almera Classic the key point is the correct disconnection of the drives (CV joints). There are two options:

1. Removing the drives completely (recommended if you plan to replace oil seals or bearings). To do this, unscrew the hub nut (32 mm), press out the ball joints and remove the drive from the gearbox. Be careful - when removing the inner CV joint from the box, oil may leak out.
2. Disconnecting drives from the gearbox without removing them from the vehicle (faster, but less convenient). In this case, you will have to carefully move the drives to the side, securing them with wire.

After disconnecting the drives, you can begin to disconnect the gearbox and engine. The main thing here is unscrew the bolts evenly fastenings so as not to distort the flange. On Almera Classic The gearbox is attached to the engine 6 bolts x 14 mm And 2 x 12mm bolts (top). Start with the top bolts, then move to the bottom. Leave the last bolt until the gearbox is held only by it - this makes it easier to control the weight of the unit.

What to do if the gearbox mounting bolts cannot be unscrewed?

If the bolts are stuck, do not try to remove them by force - this may cause the threads to break. Use the following scheme:

1. Liberally coat the bolts with penetrating lubricant (e.g. Liqui Moly MoS2) and let stand for 15–20 minutes.

2. Tap the edges of the bolt with a hammer using a soft drift (copper/aluminium).

3. Try unscrewing using an impact wrench or a spanner with an extension.

4. If that doesn’t help, heat the bolt with a gas burner (do not overheat the gearbox housing!).

5. As a last resort, drill out the bolt and cut a new thread (you will need a tap M14x1.5 for the bottom bolts).

When all the bolts are unscrewed, all that remains is to carefully move the gearbox back, separating it from the engine. For manual transmission It may be necessary to rotate the flywheel to get the input shaft out of the clutch. For machine gun make sure that the torque converter is not jammed on the shaft splines - if it does not come off, carefully rock the gearbox left and right.

Nuances for manual and automatic transmissions

Construction mechanical (JR5/RS5F32A) and automatic (RE4F03B) boxes on Almera Classic is very different, so the removal process has its own characteristics.

Parameter	Manual transmission	Automatic transmission
Box weight	~35 kg	~50 kg
Engine mount	6 bolts (14 mm) + 2 bolts (12 mm)	8 bolts (14 mm) + 2 studs
Difficulty in removing	Medium (requires clutch removal)	High (need to disconnect hydraulics and electronics)
Critical moments	Fixing the flywheel when removing the clutch basket	Selector lever position (must be in N)
Additional work	Replacing the release bearing, input shaft oil seal	Replacing the automatic transmission filter, flushing the valve body

For Manual transmission after removing the box, replacement is often required release bearing and status check clutch baskets. Please note input shaft oil seal - if it leaks, it must be replaced immediately, since this does not require complete disassembly of the gearbox.

For Automatic transmission critical: do not turn the box over after removal (oil may leak from the torque converter) and do not drop the valve body (it is sensitive to shocks).

Also, before installing a new gearbox, be sure to check solenoids And valve plate — their malfunction is often disguised as a “dying” box.

Mechanical (JR5/RS5F32A)

Automatic (RE4F03B)

I don't know, haven't checked

Other (write in the comments) -->

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced craftsmen sometimes miss important details, which then turn into additional expenses or re-disassembly. Here are the most common mistakes when removing a gearbox: Almera Classic:

• 🔧 Non-fixed flywheel when unscrewing the clutch basket. This results in the crankshaft cranking and the risk of damage to the crankshaft position sensor (CPS). Solution: Use a special clamp or insert a screwdriver into the teeth of the flywheel.
• 🔩 Lost gearbox mounting bolts. On Almera Classic the bolts are of different lengths - if they are mixed up, the box will not fit tightly to the engine. Solution: Lay out the bolts as you remove them and label them (for example, “top”, “bottom”).
• 💧 Ignoring replacement of seals. If you do not change the input shaft oil seal or the rear crankshaft oil seal, after installing the gearbox, oil will begin to leak within 1–2 thousand km. Solution: Replace all seals and gaskets, even if they “seem to be normal.”
• ⚡ Incorrect sensor connection after installation. For example, if you confuse the connectors of the speed sensor and the reverse sensor, the ECU will generate errors. Solution: Take pictures of the connection before disconnecting.

⚠️ Attention: If you are filming automatic transmission, never turn on the ignition with the torque converter disconnected. This may lead to oil pump damage Automatic transmission, as it rotates from the engine through a torque converter. Also, do not drop the torque converter - its balancing is disrupted even with minor impacts.

Another typical problem is gearbox misalignment during installation. If the box is not centered, this will lead to difficult gear shifting (for manual transmission) or jerking (for automatic transmission). To avoid this, use centering bushings (included with the new clutch) and tighten the mounting bolts evenly in 2-3 sets.

Reassembly: procedure and tightening torques

Reinstalling the gearbox is a process that requires no less care than dismantling it. Start by preparing the surfaces: clean the engine and gearbox flange from the old gasket (use a scraper made of plastic or copper to avoid damaging the aluminum).

Apply a thin layer of sealant to the gasket (if it is paper) or to the flange (if the gasket is rubber).

For manual transmission The assembly order is as follows:

1. Install new release bearing and lubricate the input shaft splines.
2. Secure the clutch basket to the flywheel (tighten the bolts crosswise with force 25–30 Nm).
3. Carefully slide the gearbox onto the splines, lining up the bolt holes.
4. Tighten the fastening bolts in 2 stages: first “tighten” everything, then tighten firmly 45–55 Nm (for bolts M12) and 70–80 Nm (for bolts M14).

For automatic transmission steps will be added: checking the torque converter position (it should sit completely on the shaft splines) and connecting hydraulic lines (after tightening the bolts).

Do not forget to pour fresh oil into the automatic transmission through the technological hole (volume - about 4.5 liters for a complete change).

After installing the gearbox: adjust the clutch cable (for manual transmission) or bleed the hydraulics (for automatic transmission, if the tubes were disconnected).

Start the engine and check the operation of the transmission in all gears. For automatic transmission, be sure to follow adaptation (resetting errors and teaching solenoids), otherwise switching will be hard.

When to call a professional: signs of serious problems

Not all gearbox malfunctions are Nissan Almera Classic you can fix it yourself. Here are the cases when it is better to trust the specialists:

• 🔊 Metallic grinding or crunching sound when changing gears (manual transmission) - a sign of destruction of synchronizers or bearings. Complete disassembly of the gearbox is required.
• 💥 Jerking or slipping (automatic transmission) - may indicate wear of the clutches or a malfunction of the valve body. Diagnostics requires a special scanner (for example, Launch X431).
• 🛑 Oil leak from under the selector shaft (automatic transmission) - often due to wear of the bushing or oil seal, which are difficult to replace without completely removing the gearbox.
• 🔄 Spontaneous gear shutdown (manual transmission) - may be caused by wear of the shift forks or breakage of the springs in the gear selection mechanism.

If you are not confident in your abilities, contact a service with good repair reviews Nissan. The cost of removing/installing a gearbox on Almera Classic in Moscow and the regions is 8,000–12,000 rubles (excluding spare parts). For automatic transmission the price is higher - up to 15,000 rubles, as it takes more time to disconnect the hydraulics and electronics.

⚠️ Attention: If vibrations or noises appear after installing the gearbox yourself, stop using the vehicle immediately. This could be a sign incorrect centering of the box or bearing damage. Further driving will aggravate the problem and lead to expensive repairs.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about removing the gearbox on a Nissan Almera Classic

Is it possible to remove the gearbox on an Almera Classic without removing the suspension?

Yes, but it will make the task much more difficult. Without removing the suspension (or at least disconnecting the ball joints), it will be difficult to remove the drives from the gearbox and maneuver the gearbox during dismantling. If you have no experience, it is better to remove the suspension arms or use sliding racks to fix the engine.

What kind of oil should I fill in the manual transmission after installation?

For Nissan Almera Classic with manual transmission (JR5/RS5F32A) oil recommended Nissan MT-XZ 75W-85 or its analogues: Motul Gear 300 75W-90, Castrol Syntrans Transaxle 75W-90. Volume - 2.3–2.5 liters. Do not use oils labeled GL-5 — they are aggressive towards synchronizers.

Do I need to change the clutch when removing the gearbox?

Not required, but highly recommended. If the car's mileage exceeds 100,000 km, and the clutch has never changed, then basket, disk And release bearing already worn out. Clutch kit cost for Almera Classic - about 5,000–7,000 rubles (brands Sachs, LUK, Valeo). Replacing the clutch with the gearbox removed takes only 1–2 hours, whereas this work separately would cost 3,000–4,000 rubles.

How to check that the gearbox is installed correctly?

After installation, perform the following checks:

1. Start the engine and check if extraneous noise (hum, grinding).
2. For manual transmission: all gears must be engaged clear, no crunch.
3. For automatic transmission: shifts must be smooth, without jerks or delays.
4. Check the oil level (for automatic transmission - on a warm engine, selector in P).
5. Make sure not oil leaks from under the gearbox gasket or oil seals.

If at least one point is not fulfilled, deal with the problem before starting operation.

How long does it take to remove the transmission for the first time?

For a beginner, the process will take 6–10 hours (with breaks to study the instructions and deal with “stuck” bolts). Experienced craftsmen handle 3–4 hours. The main thing is to take your time and follow the order of actions. Most of the time is spent on disconnecting drives and dealing with rusty bolts, and not on removing the gearbox itself..