Car suspension Nissan Almera N16 is famous for its simplicity and maintainability, but it is in this part of the design that problems often arise. The rear silent blocks of the front levers are one of the most loaded elements, ensuring a smooth ride and precise control.
Many owners experience a characteristic knocking sound, the car pulling to the side, or uneven tire wear. Ignoring these symptoms can lead to destruction of the lever itself or damage to body parts. Understanding how it works suspension element and why it fails will help you save time and money on repairs.
Design and purpose of suspension elements
Front suspension Nissan Almera N16 built according to the classic design with double wishbones. A silent block (an elastic rubber-metal hinge support) connects the lever to the subframe, allowing it to make certain movements when the suspension is operating, but at the same time dampening vibrations from the road.
The design uses two types of connections: the front silent block, which works in compression and tension, and the rear, which takes on the main impacts and turns of the wheel. Rubber-metal hinge consists of a metal sleeve, an outer casing and a layer of rubber, which is bonded to the metal by vulcanization.
Over time, rubber loses its elastic properties due to temperature changes, exposure to oil, brake fluid and ultraviolet radiation. This causes the gap between the bushing and the body to increase, causing backlash. If you hear dull knocks when driving over bumps, this is where the problem lies.
Wear symptoms and diagnostic methods
The malfunction can be determined both visually and by the nature of the vehicle’s behavior on the road. The surest sign is the appearance of knocking noises in the front end, which intensify when driving over speed bumps or potholes. The car may begin to wobble at high speed, and the steering wheel will become less informative.
A visual inspection requires removing the wheel and, preferably, the lever. Pay attention to the presence of cracks on the surface of the rubber, delamination of metal from the rubber, or complete destruction of the bushing. It often happens that the rubber part looks intact, but the inner sleeve rotates inside the body.
- 🚗 The car pulls to the side when braking or on a straight line.
- 🔊 The appearance of characteristic knocks and squeaks when driving over uneven surfaces.
- 🛞 Uneven front tire tread wear (spots or steps).
For accurate diagnosis, a lift or inspection pit is required. Use a pry bar to try to move the arm relative to the subframe. If you see the rubber part deforming excessively or metal touching metal - silent block replacement inevitable.
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to drive with a completely destroyed silent block. This could cause the lever to fly out of its seat, resulting in loss of control and a serious accident.
Selection of quality replacement parts
The auto parts market offers a huge selection of options: from original parts to cheap analogues. Original silent blocks Nissan (catalog number often starts with 54510) are distinguished by high quality rubber and ideal geometry, but are quite expensive.
An alternative can be trusted brands that specialize in suspension elements. These include Corteco, Febi, Lemförder and TRW. These manufacturers often supply parts to assembly lines, so their quality is almost the same as the original, and the price may be lower.
Avoid buying the cheapest analogues from unknown manufacturers. The rubber in such products is often too hard, which kills comfort, or too soft, which leads to rapid wear. Defects also occur when the metal is poorly glued to the rubber.
- ✅ Corteco - excellent balance of price and quality, durable tires.
- ✅ Lemförder - premium segment, often installed at the factory.
- ❌ Cheap Chinese brands without reviews are a risk of rapid failure.
When purchasing, be sure to check the production date. Rubber ages even on a shelf. If the parts were produced more than 3-4 years ago, their properties may have already deteriorated. It is better to choose a new product than a used one or one that is in stock.
- Original Nissan
- Corteco
- Lemförder
- Other brand
Tools and preparation for work
Replacing the silent blocks of the front levers with Almera N16 This is a job that requires special tools. A simple set of keys will not be enough here, since you need to squeeze out the old bushings and press in new ones. You will need a hydraulic or mechanical press.
Also prepare jacks, stands, a set of sockets, a torque wrench and lubricant. Don't forget a can of penetrating lubricant, as the lever mounting bolts often stick. If possible, wash the threads before unscrewing.
☑️ Preparation for replacement
It is better to carry out work on a flat surface, preferably on a lift. If you use a jack, make sure it is secure and be sure to install safety stands under the car body. Security when working with suspension should be in first place.
Before starting work, you need to remove the wheel and unscrew the ball joint nut to free the lever. Then you need to loosen the bolts securing the lever to the subframe, but do not unscrew them completely so that the lever does not fall.
⚠️ Attention: Use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts securing the arm to the subframe. Over-twisting can damage the threads or deform the metal, while under-twisting will lead to backlash and noise.
Dismantling and pressing process
The most labor-intensive stage is squeezing out the old silent blocks. To do this, use mandrels of the appropriate diameter. Push in the old bushing gradually, being careful not to damage the lever housing. If the bushing is stuck, use a penetrating lubricant and carefully heat the metal (without fanaticism, so as not to burn the rubber).
After removing the old part, thoroughly clean the seat in the lever from dirt and rust. Use a wire brush and solvent. The surface must be smooth so that the new silent block fits tightly and without distortion.
Pressing a new part requires attention. Apply a soap solution or special lubricant to the outer surface of the silent block. Rubber-metal hinge must fit into the lever strictly in the center. Use a press to press it evenly until it stops.
If you don't have a press, you can try using clamps and pipe cuttings of suitable diameter, but this is less reliable and takes more time. The main thing is not to hit the rubber part directly with a hammer, this may disrupt the geometry of the bushing.