Changing the oil in an automatic transmission <em>Nissan Almera Classic</em>: a complete guide with nuances

Introduction: why change the oil in an automatic transmission Almera Classic - critical procedure

Automatic transmission Jatco RE4F03B, installed on Nissan Almera Classic (body J10, 2006–2018), is classified as “unmaintained” according to the factory classification. But this does not mean that the oil in it is eternal. After 60–80 thousand km ATF fluid loses its properties: viscosity decreases, friction wear products accumulate, and the filter becomes clogged with metal dust. The result is jerks when switching, delays in throttle response and risk hydraulic unit failures by 120 thousand km.

In Russian conditions - with frequent traffic jams, low temperatures and aggressive driving styles - the replacement interval should be reduced to 40–50 thousand km. At the same time, partial replacement (draining and filling) is ineffective here: up to 40% of the old oil remains in the box. The best option is complete hardware replacement with flushing, but it can also be carried out in a garage if you have special equipment.

What kind of oil to fill in automatic transmission Almera Classic: original vs analogues

Manufacturer recommends Nissan Matic Fluid S (art. KE908-99931) is a semi-synthetic oil with a package of additives for Jatco. However, after 2012 he was replaced by Nissan Matic Fluid D (art. KE908-99932), compatible with newer boxes, but also suitable for RE4F03B. The difference is improved thermal stability and less tendency to foam.

Among the analogues tested:

• 🔹 Idemitsu ATF Type-J - complete analogue Matic S, often used in Japanese services.
• 🔹 Mobil ATF 3309 — universal oil that meets the standard JWS 3309 (analogue Matic D).
• 🔹 Ravenol ATF J1 Fluid — a German product with an extended service life (up to 80 thousand km).
• 🔹 Castrol Transmax J - a budget option, but with the risk of fakes.

Oil volume for a complete change - 7.2–7.8 l (depending on the method), for partial - 3.5–4 l. Do not mix under any circumstances Matic S And Matic D - this will lead to foaming and loss of pressure in the hydraulic system.

Tools and consumables: what you need for replacement

To work you will need:

• 🔧 Set of sockets and wrench 10 mm (for drain plug).
• 🔧 Hexagon on 5 mm (for oil level in some versions of boxes).
• 🔧 Funnel with an extended spout (neck diameter of the filler hole - 12 mm).
• 🔧 Drain container (minimum 5 l).
• 🔧 New automatic transmission filter (art. 31726-31X00 or 31726-31X01 for restyled models).
• 🔧 Pallet gasket (art. 31397-31X00) or sealant Loctite 574.
• 🔧 A special key for removing the filter (if you plan to change it).

For a complete replacement you will additionally need:

• 🔧 Automatic transmission washer (for example, Launch CScanner or homemade with a compressor).
• 🔧 2-3 cannulas for connecting to the oil cooling radiator pipes.
• 🔧 10–12 liters of oil (for washing with circulation).

Step-by-step instructions: partial oil change in automatic transmission

This method is suitable for scheduled maintenance every 40–50 thousand km. It does not provide a complete replacement, but it reduces the load on the box.

Step 1. Warm up the oil

Start the engine and let it run for 5–7 minutes. Switch the automatic transmission selector in all positions (P → R → N → D → L), holding each for 3–5 seconds. This will warm the oil up to 50–60°C and will make draining easier.

Step 2. Drain the old oil

1. Lift the car on a lift or drive it into a pit.
2. Unscrew the drain plug (key on 10 mm) - it is located on the automatic transmission tray closer to the rear.
3. Drain the oil into a container. Normally it should flow out 3.2–3.8 l (if less, check the level after replacement).

Step 3. Replacing the filter and washing the pan

Remove the pan (12 bolts per 10 mm), carefully - up to 0.5 liters of oil remains in it. Remove the old filter (turn counterclockwise) and install the new one. Clean the tray and magnets from metal shavings. If there are a lot of chips (more than 1–2 mm in a layer), this is a signal about the beginning of the destruction of the clutches.

A new filter has been installed|The pan has been cleaned of dirt and chips|The magnets have been washed and returned to their place|The pan gasket has been replaced or sealant has been applied-->

Step 4. Filling with new oil

Fill the oil through the filler hole (next to the dipstick) until it begins to flow back out. Start the engine, warm up the box and check the level on the dipstick. HOT (hot range). Add in small portions until the level is between the marks MIN And MAX.

What to do if there is no dipstick?

On some versions Almera Classic (for example, for the Japanese market) there is no dipstick. In this case, the level is checked through the inspection hole (hexagon on 5 mm) with the engine running. The oil should drip in a thin stream at a temperature 45–50°C.

Complete automatic transmission oil change: flushing method

This method removes up to 95% old oil and is recommended for mileage over 100 thousand km or if the box begins to “kick”. You will need an assistant and a pumping apparatus.

Step 1. Connect to the cooling system

Disconnect the hoses from the automatic transmission cooling radiator (they are located to the right of the engine, when viewed in the direction of travel). Connect them to the device so that the oil circulates according to the diagram: Automatic transmission → device → radiator → automatic transmission.

Step 2. Oil pumping

1. Start the engine and let it idle.
2. Turn on the device - it will pump in new oil, displacing the old one. Monitor the color of the liquid in the transparent tube: when it turns light, the process is complete.
3. Will be required 10–12 l oil for complete rinsing.

Step 3. Filter replacement and assembly

After washing, drain the remaining oil through the drain plug, replace the filter and pan gasket (as in a partial replacement). Fill with fresh oil to the level.

⚠️ Attention: If, after a complete replacement, the box begins to work worse (jerks, delays), this may be caused washing out sediments from solenoids. In this case, automatic transmission adaptation is required (error reset via Consult-III or similar scanner).

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced car owners make mistakes when changing automatic transmission oil. Almera Classic. Here are the most critical ones:

Error	Consequences	How to avoid
Over/underfilling of oil	Oil foams → pressure drop → clutch slipping	Check the level on a heated box using a dipstick or control hole
Using incompatible oil (eg Dexron III)	Swelling of oil seals, corrosion of clutches	Only Matic S/D or certified analogues
Not replacing the filter	Clogged filter → oil starvation → gear wear	Change the filter at every oil change
Washing the pan with gasoline/solvent	Solvent residues destroy additives in new oil.	Rinse only with special means (for example, Liqui Moly ATF-Reiniger)

Another typical problem is ignoring automatic transmission adaptation after changing the oil. In boxes Jatco the electronic control unit “gets used” to the viscosity of the old oil. After filling in a new one, it may be necessary to reset the adaptations through the diagnostic scanner (for example, starting the procedure AT Learning in Consult-III).

Signs that the automatic transmission oil needs to be changed urgently

If you observe at least one of these symptoms, you should not postpone your oil change:

• 🔴 Jerks when switching (especially from 1st to 2nd gear).
• 🔴 Reaction delay by pressing the gas pedal (1–2 seconds).
• 🔴 Extraneous sounds (hum, grinding) when coasting.
• 🔴 Vibration at speeds of 60–80 km/h.
• 🔴 Black oil color on the dipstick or a burning smell.
• 🔴 Oil leaks from under the pan or oil seals.

If the oil on the dipstick has coffee shade or it smells burnt, this indicates the box is overheating. In this case, in addition to changing the oil, diagnostics of the solenoids and valve body may be required.

⚠️ Attention: If found in oil large metal particles (more than 1 mm), this is a sign of destruction of the planetary mechanism or bearings. In this case, changing the oil will no longer help - you need to rebuild the automatic transmission.

FAQ: answers to frequently asked questions

Is it possible to fill in oil of a different brand if there is no original one? Nissan Matic S?

Yes, but only certified analogues (Idemitsu ATF Type-J, Mobil ATF 3309). The main thing is that the oil meets the specification JWS 3309 (for Matic S) or JWS 3324 (for Matic D). Mixing different brands is not recommended.

How much does it cost to change automatic transmission oil? Almera Classic in the service?

Prices in 2026:

• Partial replacement: 2,500–4,000 rub. (with work and material).
• Full replacement (hardware): 5,000–8,000 rub.
• Replacing the filter + gasket: +1,500–2,500 rub.

Replacing it yourself will cost 1,500–3,000 rub. (oil + filter).

What happens if you don’t change the automatic transmission oil?

The consequences depend on the mileage:

• 80–100 thousand km: deterioration in smoothness of switching, increased fuel consumption.
• 120–150 thousand km: wear of friction clutches, slipping, jerking during acceleration.
• 180+ thousand km: destruction of the planetary gear, jamming of the box.

In critical cases, automatic transmission repair will cost 50,000–100,000 rub. (replacement of valve body, clutches, seals).

Is it necessary to flush the automatic transmission when changing the oil?

Flushing is required if:

• The oil is black or has a burning smell.
• There are a lot of metal shavings in the pan.
• The box was previously serviced irregularly.

For flushing, use either the hardware method or special additives (for example, Liqui Moly ATF-Reiniger). Do not rinse if the box is working normally and the oil has simply darkened - a partial replacement is sufficient.

Is it possible to drive with a faulty automatic transmission if you just add oil?

Adding oil is a temporary measure. If the box is already “kicking” or slipping, topping up will only delay the repair. At a critical oil level (below MIN on the dipstick) you cannot drive - this will lead to oil starvation and failure of the pumping station.