Nissan Almera Classic (also known as Nissan Sunny in some markets) is a reliable car, but even its brake pads require periodic replacement. The rear pads on this model wear out more slowly than the front ones, but their condition is critical for safety: faulty pads can lead to the car pulling away when braking or increasing the braking distance. A car service center will charge from 1,500 to 3,000 rubles for a replacement, but if you have a tool and an hour of free time, you can handle it yourself.

This instruction is suitable for Nissan Almera Classic (B10 And N16) with rear drum brakes. If you have disc brakes in the rear (a rarity on this model), the process will be different. We will analyze all the stages: from preparation to adjusting the handbrake after replacement. We will pay special attention common mistakesmistakes that beginners make - for example, incorrect installation of springs or forgotten lubrication of guides.

When do you need to change the rear pads on Almera Classic?

The manufacturer recommends checking the condition of the pads every 20,000–30,000 km, but the actual period depends on driving style and operating conditions. Here are clear signs that it's time to act:

  • 🔊 Creaking or grinding When braking, the pads wear down to metal and scratch the drum.
  • 🚗 Moving to the side when pressing the brake pedal (may indicate uneven wear).
  • 🛑 Increased braking distance — the pads do not provide sufficient friction.
  • 🔧 Visible wear: friction layer thickness less 1.5–2 mm.

On Almera Classic rear pads often “sour” due to drum corrosion. If you hear a characteristic crunch when moving backwards, this is a sign that the pads do not move away from the drum after braking. In this case, replacement is required, even if the wear is not critical.

⚠️ Attention: If cracks, chips or oil are found on the pads, they must be replaced immediately, regardless of thickness. Oil on the friction layer leads to a complete loss of braking properties.

Tools and materials: what will you need?

To replace the rear pads with Nissan Almera Classic You don’t need a professional tool, but there are a few nuances:

Tool/material Purpose Notes
Jack and stops Lifting a car Use only a flat surface. Be sure to belay with stops!
17 mm wrench Removing the drum An impact wrench may be required if the drum is stuck.
Pliers and screwdriver Removing springs and retainers It is better to use special pliers for tension springs.
WD-40 or similar Treatment of soured parts Apply 10–15 minutes before starting work.
New pads (set) Replacement of worn out For Almera Classic pads fit Nisshinbo PF-1029 or TRW GDB1446.

Additionally prepare:

  • 🧴 High temperature grease (For example, Slipkote 220-R DBC) for guides.
  • 🧹 Wire brush - to clean the drum from rust.
  • 🔧 Hammer with rubber tip - to gently knock down the drum.
📊 Which pads do you prefer to install?
  • Original Nissan
  • Nisshinbo
  • TRW
  • Ferodo
  • Others

Preparing the vehicle: steps before replacement

Improper preparation may result in personal injury or vehicle damage. Follow this algorithm:

  1. Secure the car: put the handbrake on, put chocks under the front wheels, engage first gear (or “P” on automatic transmission).
  2. Loosen the wheel nuts on the side where you will be working, but do not remove the wheel completely.
  3. Jack up the car and install a safety stand. Never work under a car that is supported only by a jack!
  4. Remove the wheel and clean the brake mechanism from dirt with a brush.

If the drum has not been removed for a long time, corrosion may “grab” it. In this case:

  • 🔧 Apply WD-40 at the junction of the drum and the hub.
  • 🔨 Gently tap the edge of the drum with a rubber mallet (not in the center!).
  • 🔩 If it doesn’t help, screw two bolts into the threaded holes of the drum and pull them evenly until the drum moves.
⚠️ Attention: Do not use a screwdriver as a lever to remove the drum - this will damage the brake shield. If the drum does not come off, check that the handbrake is fully released.

Loosen the wheel nuts|Put supports under the front wheels|Raise the car and secure it with a stand|Clean the brake mechanism from dirt|Apply WD-40 to the joint between the drum and the hub-->

Step-by-step replacement of rear pads

When the drum is removed, you will see the brake mechanism with shoes, springs and spacer. Main rule: take photographs of the original position of all partsso as not to be confused during assembly. On Almera Classic pads were often installed with automatic gap adjustment — they need to be installed correctly, otherwise the brakes will “stick.”

Procedure:

  1. Remove the upper tension spring using pliers, pulling it up and slightly to the side.
  2. Disconnect the guide spring from the front block (it is attached to the brake shield).
  3. Remove the spacer bar (it keeps the pads open).
  4. Disconnect the lower spring and a handbrake cable from the rear shoe.
  5. Remove old pads and clean the brake shield from dust and rust.

When installing new pads:

  • 🔧 Pin first rear pad (the one closest to the handbrake).
  • 🔩 Install the spacer bar and the upper spring.
  • 🔧 Connect the handbrake cable to the lever on the block.
  • 🔩 Secure the front pad and lower spring.

Important point: on Almera Classic a common problem with souring of the hand brake cable. If it does not move freely, lubricate it lithol or replace.

💡

Before installing new pads, apply a thin layer of high temperature grease to the brake pad contact points. This will prevent squeaking and extend service life.

Adjusting the handbrake and checking operation

After replacing the pads Be sure to adjust the handbrake. On Almera Classic this is done through the adjusting nut under the car, next to the handbrake lever. Algorithm:

  1. Raise the handbrake lever to 2–3 clicks.
  2. Tighten the adjusting nut until the rear wheels lock when turned by hand.
  3. Lower the lever and check that the wheels rotate freely.
  4. Repeat the adjustment if necessary.

Check the brakes:

  • 🚗 Drive at speed 30–40 km/h and brake sharply. The car should not pull to the side.
  • 🔊 Listen for any extraneous sounds (creaking, knocking).
  • 🛑 Make sure that the braking distance has not increased.
⚠️ Attention: For the first 100–200 km after replacing the pads, avoid sharp braking - the new pads should get used to the drum. During this time, braking distances may be slightly longer than usual.

1) Correct installation of the spacer bar.

2) Condition of the handbrake cable.

3) No burrs on the drum.-->

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced car owners sometimes make mistakes when replacing rear pads. Here are the most common ones on Almera Classic:

  • 🔧 Incorrect spring installation - leads to jamming of the pads or their spontaneous displacement. Always refer to the photograph of the original position.
  • 🔩 Forgotten guide lubrication - the pads will creak and wear out faster. Use only high temperature grease!
  • 🚗 Unadjusted handbrake - either it won’t hold, or the wheels will jam.
  • 🛑 Using pads from other models - even if they are “similar”, this will lead to uneven wear.

Another typical problem is damage to the brake cylinder boot when removing the pads carelessly. If the boot is torn, the cylinder will soon fail and will have to be replaced. Inspect it every time you replace the pads!

If after replacing the brakes become “soft” or the pedal falls out, this is a sign air entering the system. In this case, you need to bleed the brakes, starting from the rear right wheel.

What to do if the drum does not come off even after WD-40?

If the drum is stuck to the hub, try the following:

1. Heat the drum with a hair dryer (do not overheat!).

2. Use a drum puller or tighten the bolts evenly into the tapped holes.

3. As a last resort, carefully tap with a hammer through the wooden spacer along the edge of the drum.

Do not hit the center - this will damage the bearing!

Is it worth changing the drums along with the pads?

On Nissan Almera Classic drums last a long time - usually 150,000–200,000 km. However, there are cases when their replacement is necessary:

  • 🔊 Deep grooves or cracks on the work surface.
  • 📏 Exceeding the maximum diameter (indicated on the reel, usually 201–203 mm).
  • 🔧 Uneven wear, leading to runout when braking.

If the drum is in good condition, it is enough to turn it on a lathe. This is cheaper than replacement and will extend the service life by another 50,000 km. The cost of grooving is about 500–800 rubles per drum.

When buying new drums, choose the original (Nissan 40520-95F00) or high-quality analogues from ATE or TRW. Cheap drums often come with an uneven surface, which leads to vibrations when braking.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about replacing rear pads

Is it possible to replace the pads on only one wheel?

No, the pads are always replaced in pairs (on both rear axles). Otherwise, the braking force will be distributed unevenly, which will lead to the car pulling to the side when braking. The exception is if the pads on the second wheel are almost new (less than 20% wear), but even in this case it is better to replace both sides.

How often should brakes be lubricated?

It is recommended to renew the lubrication of the guide pads and handbrake cable every 50,000 km or every second pad replacement. Use only specialized high temperature lubricants (for example, Slipkote 220-R or Molykote G-Rapid Plus). Ordinary lithol or solid oil are not suitable - they burn out when heated.

Why do the brakes squeak after replacing the pads?

Creaking can occur for several reasons:

  • The new pads have not yet gotten used to the drum (should take 100–200 km).
  • There is no lubrication on the guide pads.
  • Low quality friction material (especially for cheap pads).
  • Dirt or sand getting between the block and the drum.

If the squeak does not go away, check the installation of the pads and the condition of the drum.

What to do if the handbrake cable breaks?

If the cable is torn or jammed, it needs to be replaced. On Almera Classic This can be done without removing the fuel tank, but access to the interior under the trim will be required. The price of a new cable is about 800–1500 rubles. When replacing, lubricate the cable lithol and check the free play of the handbrake lever (there should be 2-4 clicks until it is completely locked).

Is it possible to drive if one pad is worn down to metal?

Absolutely not! If the friction layer has worn down to the metal base, the shoe will scratch the drum, which leads to accelerated wear. In addition, the braking force on this wheel drops sharply, which makes the car uncontrollable during emergency braking. Replace the pads immediately!