Rear pillars Nissan Almera (especially models N16, N17 And Classic B10) is one of the most vulnerable suspension elements after 80–100 thousand km. Worn shock absorbers not only reduce comfort, but also increase the risk of skidding on wet roads or during sudden maneuvers. In car services, for replacing rear struts they ask from 3 to 6 thousand rubles per pair, but if you have tools and minimal skills, you can do the job yourself in 2-3 hours.
In this article we will analyze step by step replacement process taking into account the nuances of specific generations Almera, let's pick analogues of the original racks (including budget options), and also reveal typical mistakes, due to which new shock absorbers fail after 20–30 thousand km. We will place special emphasis on unique problem of Almera N16 - corrosion of the mounts of the struts to the body, which is often overlooked even in services.
Signs of faulty rear struts on a Nissan Almera
The first symptoms of shock absorber wear on Almera appear gradually, and many drivers attribute them to “road features”. However, ignoring problems leads to accelerated wear of other suspension elements - silent blocks, stabilizer bushings and even wheel bearings.
Pay attention to the following signals:
- 🔴 Body rocking after driving over bumps (more than 2-3 vibrations). At a speed of 60–80 km/h the car begins to “wave”, as if on waves.
- 🔴 Moving to the side when braking or accelerating, especially on wet asphalt. This is due to uneven compression of the struts.
- 🔴 Knocks in the rear suspension when driving through speed bumps or potholes. Often confused with a stabilizer malfunction, but the struts are checked first.
- 🔴 Uneven rear tire wear - the inner or outer edge wears off faster. The cause may be either a malfunction of the struts or a violation of the camber.
- 🔴 Oil leak from the shock absorber housing. On Almera Classic This can be seen by oil stains on the springs or levers.
For an accurate diagnosis, use the “swing” method: press the rear bumper and release sharply. If the body bounces more than once, the struts require replacement. On Nissan Almera N16 with mileage over 150 thousand km they often break down support bearings struts, which is accompanied by a creaking noise when turning the steering wheel.
- Every 10 thousand km
- Once a year
- Only when knocking occurs
- Never checked
Which racks to choose: original vs analogues
Original rear struts for Nissan Almera are produced under the article numbers:
- 🔧 N16 (2000–2006):
54300-4M000(right) and54301-4M000(left). - 🔧 N17 (2006–2012):
54300-4M500And54301-4M500. - 🔧 Classic B10 (2012–2020):
54300-BM400And54301-BM400.
The cost of original parts is from 5 to 8 thousand rubles per piece, which is not always justified. In practice, many analogues last longer if installed correctly. The table below shows proven options indicating the average resource:
| Brand | Article number (N16/N17/Classic) | Average resource, thousand km | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Kayaba (KYB) | 343283 / 343284 / 349087 |
100–120 | Stiffer than the original, but holds the road better. Often installed in the sports version. |
| Monroe | E3497 / E3498 / E3500 |
80–100 | Soft, comfortable for the city. On Almera Classic may sag when overloaded. |
| Sachs | 313 502 / 313 503 / 313 504 |
90–110 | Optimal price/quality ratio. Suitable for aggressive driving. |
| Fenox | AS10008O7 / AS10009O7 / AS10010O7 |
60–80 | Budget option (from 2 thousand rubles). On N16 may leak after 50 thousand km. |
When choosing, pay attention to shock absorber type:
- 🔹 Oily (Monroe, Fenox) - cheaper, but overheat under prolonged loads (for example, towing).
- 🔹 Gas-oil (KYB, Sachs) - more expensive, but work more stably in cold weather and under high loads.
⚠️ Attention: On Nissan Almera N16 with motors1.8And2.0racks with reinforced rods were installed (diameter 22 mm instead of 20 mm). Check this parameter before purchasing, otherwise the new shock absorbers will not fit into the seats!
Preparing for replacement: tools and safety precautions
To replace rear struts with Almera no pit or lift is required - just a jack and reliable stops. However, you can’t do it without a special tool. Here's the full list:
Spring puller (required!)|17, 19 and 22 mm wrenches|Sockets with extension|Hammer and chisel (for stuck nuts)|WD-40 or similar rust remover|Torque wrench (for tightening to 50–60 Nm)|New nuts and bolts (part no. 08905-60U00)-->
Pay special attention spring puller. On Almera N17 And Classic the springs have a high compression force (up to 300 kg), and attempting to disassemble the stand without a lock may result in injury. If there is no puller, contact a service center or rent a tool (costs about 500 rubles/day).
Before starting work:
- Park the car on a level surface, tighten the handbrake and place chocks under the front wheels.
- Loosen the wheel nuts before getting up on a jack.
- Apply WD-40 to all threaded connections (especially the top nuts of the struts) 1-2 hours before replacement.
- If you work in a garage, provide good lighting - the lower bolts of the racks are on Almera often rust and break when unscrewed.
⚠️ Attention: On Nissan Almera Classic since 2015 they have been used in the rear pillars plastic boots instead of rubber ones. When replacing shock absorbers, be sure to check their integrity - cracks will lead to dirt getting into the working area and premature wear.
If the nut of the strut rod does not unscrew, heat it with a hair dryer (up to 200°C) and try again. Do not hit the rod with a hammer - this will deform the internal shock absorber valves!
Step-by-step instructions for replacing rear struts
Replacement process for all generations Almera similar, but there are nuances. Below are universal instructions taking into account the features N16, N17 And Classic.
Step 1: Removing the Old Rack
1. Raise the rear of the car with a jack and remove the wheel.
2. Unscrew the two bolts securing the rack to suspension arm (19 mm wrench). On Almera N16 bolts often stick - use a chisel to remove them carefully.
3. In the passenger compartment or trunk (depending on the model), remove the plastic trim to gain access top rack mount. On Classic the casing is attached to 4 clips, on N16/N17 - on self-tapping screws.
4. Holding the strut rod with a 6 mm wrench (to prevent it from turning), unscrew the fastening nut (17 mm wrench). This is where an extension cord comes in handy - access is limited.
Step 2: Disassemble and reassemble the new rack
1. Clamp the strut in a vise and, using a puller, compress the spring until the support bearing is released.
2. Remove the old shock absorber, support and boot. Be sure to check the condition compression progress buffer (rubber “cup” on the rod) - if it is cracked, replace it (part number 54320-4M000).
3. Transfer all parts (spring, cups, boot) to the new strut. On Almera Classic springs often get tired and sag - if the height is less than 28 cm, replace them too.
4. Tighten the stem nut torque wrench with a force of 45–50 Nm. Over-tightening will damage the seals!
Step 3: Installation and Testing
1. Lift the rack into the arch and secure the upper part to the body. On N16 use new nuts - old ones often strip the threads.
2. Attach the bottom to the lever. Tighten the bolts only after lowering the car onto its wheels, otherwise the silent blocks will work under load.
3. After assembly, check wheel alignment. On Almera The rear wheels have a slight negative camber (-1°), which gets lost when replacing the struts.
What to do if the rack does not fit into the seat?
If the new strut does not seat on the bottom bolts, check:
1. Correct installation of the spring (the ends should rest against the “ears” of the cups).
2. Condition of the lever silent blocks - if they are worn out, the strut will be displaced.
3. On Almera N16 Sometimes the brake hose gets in the way - carefully bend it to the side.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
Even experienced craftsmen make mistakes when replacing rear struts with Nissan Almerawhich lead to premature failure of parts. Here are the most common:
- 🔧 Reusing old nuts and bolts. The threads on the fasteners become deformed over time, which leads to play. Always take new hardware (a set costs ~300 rubles).
- 🔧 Incorrect rod tightening. If the rod nut is overtightened, the shock absorber seal is damaged and oil begins to leak after 10–20 thousand km.
- 🔧 Ignoring support bearings. On Almera N17 they fail every 60–80 thousand km. If you do not replace them along with the struts, a squeak will appear when turning.
- 🔧 Installing racks without bleeding. Gas-oil shock absorbers (KYB, Sachs) need to be pumped before installation - otherwise they “fail” in the first days of operation.
One more critical error - do not check status mounting points for the struts to the body. On Almera N16 and early Classic these places often rust, and when replacing the strut, the nuts simply spin through the metal. Solution:
- Clean off any rust with a metal brush.
- Apply a rust converter (eg Tsinkar).
- If the thread is broken, cut a new one or install a repair bushing.
After replacing the struts, be sure to check the ABS operation! On Nissan Almera The rear wheel speed sensors are mounted next to the struts, and their cables can be damaged during removal.
Cost of service work vs independent replacement
Prices for replacing rear struts in car repair shops vary depending on the region and model. Almera:
| Service type | Cost for 1 rack, rub. | Cost per pair, rub. | Working hours |
|---|---|---|---|
| Official dealer | 2 500–3 500 | 5 000–7 000 | 3–4 hours |
| Independent service | 1 500–2 500 | 3 000–5 000 | 2–3 hours |
| Garage craftsmen | 1 000–1 500 | 2 000–3 000 | 1.5–2 hours |
| On your own | 0 (spare parts only) | 0 (spare parts only) | 3–5 hours |
The savings when replacing yourself are obvious, but keep in mind hidden costs:
- 💰 Rent a spring puller - 500–1,000 rubles.
- 💰 Purchase of WD-40, new nuts, dust covers - 800–1,500 rubles.
- 💰 Possible replacement of springs or silent blocks - 2,000–4,000 rubles.
If you have never repaired a suspension, it is better to contact a service center. On Almera Classic with electronic systems (ESP, ABS), incorrect replacement of struts can lead to errors in the control unit.
Frequently asked questions about replacing rear struts on a Nissan Almera
Is it possible to replace only one rack if the second one is still normal?
No, this is absolutely not recommended. Even if the second rack “holds”, its characteristics are already different from the new one, which will lead to:
- 🔹 uneven tire wear;
- 🔹 pulling the car to the side when braking;
- 🔹 increased load on silent blocks and levers.
An exception is if the second rack is new (replaced less than 10 thousand km ago).
How to bleed racks before installation?
For gas-oil shock absorbers (KYB, Sachs):
- Turn the rack upside down.
- Squeeze and release smoothly 3-5 times (without jerking!).
- Hold the squeeze for 2-3 seconds, then release slowly.
- Repeat 3 times and place the stand in a vertical position.
Oil struts (Monroe) no need to pump.
What should I do if there is a knocking noise after replacement?
Causes and solutions:
- 🔧 Mounting bolts are loose — check the tightening torques (50–60 Nm).
- 🔧 Worn support bearing - replace it (article no.
54310-4M000for N16). - 🔧 The boot is damaged - Inspect for cracks.
- 🔧 Rejection of the new rack - if the knock is metallic, return the part under warranty.
How long do the struts on an Almera last when driving carefully?
The service life depends on the type of shock absorbers and operating conditions:
- 🔹 Original: 80–120 thousand km.
- 🔹 KYB/Sachs: 100–150 thousand km.
- 🔹 Monroe/Fenox: 60–90 thousand km.
On Almera Classic with a mileage of >150 thousand km, the struts wear out faster due to fatigue of the body metal.
Do I need to do a wheel alignment after replacement?
On Nissan Almera the rear wheels have a fixed camber angle (-1°), but when replacing struts it can get lost due to:
- 🔹 shifting levers;
- 🔹 deformation of silent blocks;
- 🔹 improper tightening of bolts.
A camber check is required if:
- 🔹 the car “steers” to the side;
- 🔹 tires began to wear out unevenly;
- 🔹 you replaced not only the racks, but also the levers/silent blocks.