Rear shock absorbers Nissan Almera Classic (especially for models B10 And N16) is one of those components that requires attention after 80–100 thousand kilometers. Worn struts not only impair comfort, but also make the car less controllable, increasing the braking distance on uneven roads. If you notice that the car begins to “squat” on bumps, and excessive roll appears when cornering, it’s time to think about replacing it.

In this article we will analyze the entire process of selecting components before final assembly, take into account typical mistakes and give recommendations on choosing between original racks (Kayaba, Sachs) and analogues (Monroe, BOGE). You will also learn what tools you will need and how to avoid problems with soured bolts and when it makes sense to change not only shock absorbers, but also related parts - support bearings or anthers.

Signs of wear on rear struts: when is it time to replace them?

The first signal of a shock absorber malfunction is a change in the car's behavior. On Almera Classic with worn rear struts the following are often observed:

  • 🔴 Increased braking distance — the car “nods” under sharp braking, and the rear part bounces.
  • 🔴 Body rocking after passing speed bumps or potholes (the car does not calm down for a long time).
  • 🔴 Uneven rear tire wear - especially on the inside of the tread.
  • 🔴 Knocks in the rear suspension on small irregularities (may also indicate wear of bushings or silent blocks).
  • 🔴 Oil leak from the strut body - visible marks on the boot or the shock absorber itself.

It is important to distinguish strut wear from problems with springs or silent blocks. For example, if the car only sags on one side, the spring rather than the shock absorber is at fault. For an accurate diagnosis, you can conduct a test: press firmly on the rear bumper and release. If the body makes more than 1-2 vibrations, it’s time to change the struts.

⚠️ Attention: On Nissan Almera Classic with a mileage of over 150 thousand km, not only the struts often wear out, but also stabilizer bushings or rear beam silent blocks. If you ignore these details, new shock absorbers will last 2-3 times less.
📊 How often do you check the condition of the suspension?
  • Every 10 thousand km
  • Once a year
  • Only when problems arise
  • Never checked

Choice of rear struts: original vs analogues

For Almera Classic (body B10 or N16) racks from several manufacturers are suitable. Original parts from Nissan (article 54300-4M000 for the right one, 54301-4M000 for the left) are expensive, but guarantee a service life of 100–120 thousand km. However, there are worthy analogues on the market:

Brand Article Average price (per piece) Features
Kayaba (original) 339100 / 339101 4 500–5 500 ₽ Soft, comfortable, but less durable on bad roads.
Sachs 315 354 / 315 355 3 800–4 200 ₽ Stiffer than the original, better for sporty driving.
Monroe G4464 / G4465 3 200–3 700 ₽ Universal option, medium hardness.
BOGE 23-T0-033 / 23-T0-034 3 500–4 000 ₽ Good price/quality ratio, suitable for Russian roads.

When choosing, pay attention to shock absorber type:

  • 🔹 Oily - cheaper, softer, but less durable (suitable for quiet driving).
  • 🔹 Gas-oil - more expensive, stiffer, better road holding at high speeds.

On Almera Classic with a mileage of more than 200 thousand km, it is recommended to install racks with reinforced rods (for example, Sachs Super Touring), since standard ones can quickly fail due to wear of other suspension elements.

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If you drive mainly around the city, choose oil struts Monroe or Kayaba — they will provide maximum comfort. For the highway and aggressive driving, gas-oil engines are better suited Sachs or BOGE

Necessary tools and consumables

To replace rear struts with Almera Classic you will need:

Jack and supports (or lift)

Socket set (10, 12, 14, 17, 19 mm)

Socket wrench with extension

Spring puller (required!)

WD-40 or similar penetrating lubricant

Torque wrench (optional, but recommended)

New struts (pair) + boots and bumpers (if replacement is required)

Rubber bushings and fastening nuts (if worn)

Hammer and chisel (in case of soured bolts) -->

Pay special attention spring puller — without it, dismantling the shock absorber is unsafe! The springs are under high tension, and attempting to disassemble the stand without a locking device may result in personal injury.

Also prepare penetrating lubricant (For example, WD-40 or Liqui Moly Rostloser) - the bolts securing the struts to the body and beam often turn sour, especially in regions with salt on the roads. If the bolts do not budge, you may need to gas burner for local heating (be careful not to damage the rubber bushings!).

⚠️ Attention: Never use an angle grinder (“grinder”) to cut soured bolts on racks! Metal fragments can damage brake hoses or fuel pipes, resulting in a fire.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing rear struts

The replacement process is the same for both racks, but it’s better to start with passenger side — it’s easier to get to the top mount there. Follow the following algorithm:

  1. Preparing the car. Raise the rear of the car on a jack or lift, first removing the rear wheels. Place chocks under the front wheels and engage first gear (or “park” for automatic transmission).

  2. Removing the old rack.

    • 🔧 Unscrew the two bolts securing the rack to rear beam (17 mm wrench).
    • 🔧 In the passenger compartment, remove the plastic plug above the upper pillar mount (under the rear seat).
    • 🔧 Unscrew the rod nut (19 mm wrench), holding the rod from turning with a 6 mm hexagon.
    • 🔧 Remove the stand along with the spring.

  • Disassembling and replacing the shock absorber. Install the strut into the spring remover and compress the spring until the support cup is released. Replace the shock absorber, boot and bump stop (if required). Reassemble the stand in reverse order.

  • Installing a new rack. Insert the rod into the upper mount and secure with a nut (do not tighten it completely!). Screw the post to the beam and only then finally tighten all connections.

    • Tightening torques (Nm):

    • 🔩 Rod nut - 40–50 Nm.
    • 🔩 Bolts for fastening to the beam - 80–100 Nm.
    What to do if the upper rod nut does not unscrew?

    If the stem nut is stuck, try the following methods:

    1. Apply liberally with penetrating lubricant and wait 10-15 minutes.

    2. Lightly tap the edges of the nut with a hammer through a metal rod (not the rod!).

    3. Use a wrench extension to increase leverage.

    4. As a last resort, carefully heat the nut with a gas torch (do not overheat so as not to damage the rod seal).

    Common mistakes and how to avoid them

    Even experienced car owners sometimes make mistakes when replacing struts. Here are the most common:

    • ❌ Incorrect tightening of nuts. If you overtighten the rod nut, the shock absorber will work with increased resistance, which will lead to rapid wear. Weak tightening is fraught with backlash and knocking.
    • ❌ Ignoring anthers and bump stops. These parts cost a penny, but their wear speeds up the failure of the new rack by 2-3 times.
    • ❌ Replacement of only one rack. Even if the second one is “still alive,” the difference in rigidity will lead to suspension imbalance and deterioration in handling.
    • ❌ No bleeding of oil struts before installation. If you do not pump the shock absorber (fully compress and release it 3–5 times), it may “jam” after several hundred kilometers.

    Another common problem is incompatibility of new struts with springs. For example, if you install gas-oil shock absorbers Sachs on a car with soft springs, the suspension will become too stiff, and the springs may sag over time. Before purchasing, check with the seller whether the selected racks are suitable for your modification Almera Classic (indicate the year of manufacture and body type).

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    Always change racks in pairs - even if the second one “still works”. Different stiffness of shock absorbers leads to uneven tire wear and deterioration of directional stability at speed.

    When replacement of related parts is required

    When replacing racks, check the condition of the following elements:

    • 🔧 Support bearings — if you hear a crunching sound when turning the steering wheel, they need to be replaced (part number 54340-4M000).
    • 🔧 Springs - if they sag (the distance between the turns is less than 1 cm) or have cracks.
    • 🔧 Stabilizer bushings — worn bushings make a knocking sound on small irregularities.
    • 🔧 Rear beam silent blocks - cracks or peeling of rubber indicate the need for replacement.

    On Almera Classic with mileage of more than 150 thousand km they often wear out rubber-metal bushings for levers. Replacing them requires removing the rear beam, so if you notice play in the suspension, it is better to do it right away so as not to disassemble everything after 20-30 thousand km.

    Also note brake hoses - they pass next to the racks and can be damaged during dismantling. If the hoses are cracked or leaking, replace them at the same time (part no. 40520-4M000 for the back contour).

    Bleeding and running in new struts

    After installing new shock absorbers, they must be pump up (relevant for oil and gas-oil models):

    1. Install the stand vertically (with the stem up).
    2. Squeeze it smoothly until it stops and hold it for 2-3 seconds.
    3. Gently release to the starting position.
    4. Repeat 3-5 times.

    Breaking in new struts takes approx. 500–1000 km. During this period, avoid:

    • ⚠️ Sudden starts and braking.
    • ⚠️ Driving over strong potholes at high speed.
    • ⚠️ Vehicle overload (do not exceed the permissible weight).

    After running in, check:

    • 🔹 No oil leaks on the racks.
    • 🔹 Uniformity of rear tire wear.
    • 🔹 No extraneous sounds when driving over uneven surfaces.
    💡

    If, after replacing the struts, the car begins to “feel” in turns or there is a roll, check the tire pressure and wheel balancing. Often these symptoms are mistakenly attributed to poor-quality shock absorbers, although the problem lies in the wheel alignment.

    FAQ: Frequently asked questions about replacing rear struts

    Is it possible to replace the rear struts on an Almera Classic without a spring remover?

    Theoretically it is possible, but it is extremely dangerous! The spring is under high voltage (up to 300 kgf), and when disassembled without a lock, it can “shoot”, causing serious injury. A spring remover is inexpensive (from 1,500 ₽), but the risk is not justified.

    How long does it take to replace rear struts?

    If you have the tools and experience - about 2-3 hours for both racks. If the bolts are soured or related parts (for example, silent blocks) need to be replaced, the process may take 4–5 hours.

    Do I need to do a wheel alignment after replacing the struts?

    On Almera Classic the rear wheels do not have wheel alignment adjustment (the suspension is a torsion beam). However, if you notice uneven tire wear or your vehicle is pulling to one side, check tire pressure And wheel balancing.

    Which struts are better - oil or gas oil?

    The choice depends on your driving style:

    • 🔹 Oily (Kayaba, Monroe) - more comfortable, cheaper, but less resistant to overheating (they can “foam” during long driving on the highway).
    • 🔹 Gas-oil (Sachs, BOGE) - stiffer, better road holding at high speeds, but more expensive and can transfer more vibrations to the body.

    For the city and mixed cycle, oil struts are optimal, for the highway and aggressive driving - gas-oil struts.

    What happens if you don't replace worn out rear struts?

    Consequences of ignoring the problem:

    • ⚠️ Increase in braking distance by 10–20% (due to “pecks” of the body).
    • ⚠️ Accelerated wear of tires, hub bearings and silent blocks.
    • ⚠️ Risk of loss of control when cornering (especially on wet roads).
    • ⚠️ Increased load on the front suspension, which leads to its premature wear.

    At speeds over 100 km/h, worn struts can cause aquaplaning even with a small layer of water on the road.