Nissan Tino - a compact van, which, despite its age (produced from 1998 to 2006), still remains popular among Russian car owners due to its reliability and practicality. One of the most common maintenance procedures for this vehicle is replacing rear brake pads - especially when it comes to versions with drum brakes, which require more attention than disc brakes. In this article we will analyze the entire process from A to Z: from diagnosing wear to the final pumping of the system, taking into account all the pitfalls that are specific to Tino.
It is important to understand that the rear pads on this car wear out slower than the front ones (about 2-3 times), but their condition directly affects car stability when braking and safety in general. If you notice a squeak, increased brake pedal travel, or “pull” to the side, this is a reason to check the rear mechanisms. We will not convince you to go to the service: if you have a minimum set of tools and patience Replacing pads on a Nissan Tino takes no more than 2–3 hours, even for a beginner, and the savings will be 3–5 thousand rubles.
How to tell if your rear pads need replacing
The first sign of wear is not always a squeak or squeak. On Nissan Tino (especially on versions with drum brakes) symptoms may be less obvious. Please note:
- 🔊 Extraneous sounds when braking: a metallic grinding or knocking sound indicates that the friction material has been worn down to the base and the pad is scratching the drum or disc.
- 🚗 Increased braking distance - if the car slows down worse, and the pedal “sinks” deeper than usual.
- 🔄 Uneven braking: The car pulls to the left or right when you press the pedal.
- 💨 Dust on wheels - an abundant black coating (especially if it appears suddenly) may indicate destruction of the friction layer.
For an accurate diagnosis, a visual examination is sufficient. In the case of disc brakes the pads are visible through the wheel spokes (the thickness of the friction layer should be at least 2–3 mm). C drums more difficult: you have to remove the wheel and look through the inspection window in the brake mechanism shield. If you see that the pad has thinned down to 1–1.5 mm, it’s time to change it.
⚠️ Attention! On Nissan Tino With ABS, pad wear sensors are extremely rare (only on later versions with disc brakes). Don't rely on the indicator on the dashboard - it may simply not be there.
- Disc rear
- Drums at the back
- I don't know
- Another option
Which pads to choose: original vs analogues
Original spare parts for Tino (article 40520-4M000 for drums and 40520-4M010 for disk ones) are expensive (from 2500 to 4000 rubles per set), but guarantee perfect compatibility. However, there are worthy analogues on the market that are not inferior in quality, but are 1.5–2 times cheaper. Here are the tested options:
| Brand | Article (drum) | Article (disk) | Price per set (RUB) | Features |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nisshinbo | NFB1009 |
NFP5006 |
1800–2200 | Soft, generates little dust, but wears out faster |
| Akebono | ACT909A |
ACT506A |
2000–2500 | Optimal price/quality balance, suitable for aggressive driving style |
| Bosch | 0 986 494 727 |
0 986 494 216 |
2300–2800 | Rigid, durable, but can creak for the first 200–300 km |
| TRW | GDB1446 |
GDB1565 |
1900–2400 | Good heat dissipation, recommended for driving with a trailer |
When choosing, pay attention to friction material composition:
- 🔹 Semi-metallic (containing copper or steel) - durable, but noisy and dusty.
- 🔹 Ceramic - quiet and generate little dust, but more expensive and may perform worse at low temperatures.
- 🔹 Organic - soft, silent, but wear out faster (suitable for quiet driving).
⚠️ Attention! On Nissan Tino 2002–2006 model years with drum brakes often encounter a problem: the pads from analog brands may not coincide in radius with the original ones. Before purchasing, check the dimensions with old parts or use reference data.
Tools and preparation for replacement
To work you will need:
- 🔧 Jack And supports (or lift).
- 🔨 Balloon wrench And socket heads (at 10, 12, 14 and 17 mm).
- 🔩 Hammer (for drum brakes) and flat blade screwdriver.
- 🧲 Pliers (for removing springs on drum shoes).
- 🛠️ WD-40 or an analogue for treating soured bolts.
- 🧴 DOT-4 brake fluid (in case of pumping).
- 🧤 Gloves And safety glasses (Brake dust is harmful to health!).
Before starting work:
- Park your car on flat surface and secure the front wheels with chocks.
- Loosen the rear wheel nuts (but do not remove them completely!).
- If you have drum brakes, remove the brake fluid reservoir cap - this will make it easier to separate the pads later.
- Prepare new pads And spring/spacer repair kit (if replacement is required).
Loosen the rear wheel nuts|Raise the car on a jack and install supports|Remove the wheel and clean the brake mechanism from dirt|Prepare new pads and tools|Check the brake fluid level-->
If you are working with drum brakes, be prepared for the fact that the drum may “stick” to the hub. In this case it will help:
- 🔨 Light blows with a hammer through a wooden spacer along the edge of the drum.
- 🔥 Heating with a construction hairdryer (but not with open fire!).
- 💧 Penetrating lubricant (e.g. Liqui Moly MoS2) - apply it to the joint and wait 10-15 minutes.
Step-by-step instructions: replacing rear pads
The process differs depending on the type of brake. Let's consider both options.
Option 1: Drum brakes (most common on Tino)
1. Remove the drum:
- Unscrew the guide pins (if any) or simply pull the drum together with your hands, rocking it from side to side.
- If the drum cannot be removed, use two mounts, resting them on opposite edges.
2. Clean the mechanism:
- Remove dust and dirt using a wire brush.
- Pay attention to slave cylinder - if it leaks, it will also have to be changed.
3. Remove old pads:
- Using pliers, remove the upper and lower springs.
- Disconnect the handbrake cable from the shoe lever.
- Carefully remove the pads, remembering their location (left and right may be different!).
4. Install new pads:
- Apply copper grease at the contact points of the pads with the support shield.
- Reassemble the mechanism in reverse order, starting with the lower spring.
- Adjust the gap between the pads and the drum using eccentric mechanism (it is located on the support board).
Before installing the drum, check that it rotates freely by hand. If resistance is felt, the pads are too far apart, you need to loosen the adjusting mechanism.
Option 2: Disc brakes (on later Tino versions)
1. Remove the caliper:
- Unscrew the two caliper mounting bolts (usually 14 mm).
- Hang the caliper on a wire to the spring - do not leave it hanging from the brake hose!
2. Pull out the old pads:
- They can “stick” to the guides - carefully pry them off with a screwdriver.
- Clean the guides and apply special lubricant for brake systems (For example, SLIPKOTE 220-R DBC).
3. Install new pads:
- Press the caliper piston back using clamps or an adjustable wrench.
- Make sure that guide plates (if any) are not bent and stay in place.
4. Assemble the mechanism:
- Tighten the caliper bolts firmly 25–30 Nm.
- Press the brake pedal several times until the piston is in the working position.
After replacing the pads on disc brakes, avoid sudden braking for the first 100–200 km - the friction material needs to get used to it.
Adjusting the handbrake and bleeding the brakes
After replacing the pads with Nissan Tino be sure to check the work parking brake. If the cable is loose, it will be difficult to hold the car on a slope. You can adjust it like this:
- Raise the handbrake lever 2–3 clicks.
- Tighten the adjustment nut on the cable equalizer (it is located under the machine, next to the rear beam).
- Check that the rear wheels lock after 4-5 clicks of the lever.
If you have removed brake hoses or wheel cylinders, the system needs to be pump up. To do this:
- Place on the bleeder fitting transparent hose, lower the other end into a container with brake fluid.
- Have an assistant press the brake pedal 3-4 times and hold it down.
- Unscrew the fitting half a turn - liquid with air bubbles should come out.
- Repeat until no more bubbles appear in the hose.
⚠️ Attention! On Nissan Tino with ABS, bleeding must begin with right rear wheel, then left rear, right front and left front. If you do the opposite, there may be air pockets in the system!
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
Even experienced car owners sometimes make mistakes when replacing rear pads. Here are the most common:
- 🔧 Incorrect spring installation on drum brakes - this leads to uneven wear or jamming of the pads. Always check the diagram!
- 🛑 Forgetting to clean the caliper guides - this causes uneven braking and squeaking.
- 💧 Using the wrong lubricant (For example, Litol or Solid oil) - it melts when heated and damages rubber seals.
- 🔩 Do not check the condition of the brake drum/disc - if it has deep grooves (more than 1 mm), the pads will wear out quickly.
Another typical problem is incorrect clearance adjustment in drum brakes. If the pads are too close to the drum, the car will “slow down” while driving; if they are too far away, the braking distance will increase. Optimal clearance for Tino — 0.3–0.5 mm.
What should I do if the brake pedal becomes soft after replacing the pads?
This is a sign of air in the system. Bleed the brakes again, starting with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder (right rear). If the problem persists, check the tightness of the hoses and working cylinders.
How much does it cost to replace it at a service center versus doing it yourself?
The cost of work in a car service depends on the type of brakes and region:
| Brake type | Cost of work (rub.) | Cost of spare parts (RUB) | Total (RUB) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Drums | 1500–2500 | 1800–3000 | 3300–5500 |
| Disk | 2000–3500 | 2500–4000 | 4500–7500 |
If you replace it yourself, you only spend money on spare parts and, possibly, new ones spring repair kits (about 500 rubles). The savings will be 1500–4000 rubles depending on the type of brakes.
However, keep in mind that the service provides you with:
- 🔧 They will provide a guarantee for the work (usually 3-6 months).
- 🛠️ Related problems will be diagnosed (for example, wheel bearing wear).
- 📝 They will issue a receipt, which may be needed when selling the car.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions about replacing pads on a Nissan Tino
Is it possible to change the pads on only one wheel?
No! Rear pads are always changed a couple (on both wheels of the same axle), even if one of them looks almost new. Otherwise, the braking force will be distributed unevenly, which will lead to skidding during emergency braking.
How often do you need to change the rear pads on a Tino?
Service life depends on driving style and type of pads:
- 🚗 Drums: every
60–80 thousand km. - 🚗 Disk: every
40–60 thousand km.
But it’s better to focus on friction layer thickness (minimum 1.5–2 mm) and the condition of the brakes during inspection.
Do the pads need to be lubricated before installation?
No! You can only lubricate contact points between the pads and the caliper or support plate (special high-temperature lubricant). The linings themselves must remain dry - any grease on them will lead to loss of braking efficiency.
What to do if a squeaking noise appears after replacing the pads?
Creak for the first time 100–300 km — this is normal (new pads are grinding in). If the sound does not disappear:
- 🔊 Check if it concerns wear indicator brake disc/drum.
- 🔊 Apply to the back of the pads anti-squeak paste (For example, Liqui Moly Bremsen-Anti-Quietsch-Paste).
- 🔊 Make sure the pads are installed correctly (sometimes they are turned upside down).
Is it possible to drive if the friction layer has worn down to metal?
Absolutely not! This leads to:
- 🔥 Overheating brake drum/disc (risk of deformation).
- 🛑 A sharp decrease in braking efficiency (up to complete brake failure).
- 💥 Damage to the brake cylinder (the metal base of the block scratches the mirror).
If you find such wear - It is prohibited to operate the car until the problem is resolved.