Replacing rear brake pads on a <em>Nissan Almera Classic</em>: detailed instructions with photos and tips

Rear brake pads on Nissan Almera Classic (especially in bodies B10 And N16) is a consumable that requires attention every 30–50 thousand km mileage Their wear depends not only on driving style, but also on the quality of the pads themselves, the condition of the brake drums and even climatic conditions. If you notice squeaking when braking, increased pedal travel, or vibrations, it's time to have your rear brakes checked. Unlike front discs, rear drum mechanisms are more difficult to maintain, but with the right approach you can replace them yourself.

In this article we will walk through the entire process from wear diagnostics to reassembly, we will take into account typical mistakes (for example, incorrect adjustment of the handbrake or retightening of bearings) and give recommendations on the selection of spare parts. And if you've never worked with drum brakes, don't worry: our step by step guide It will help even a beginner to understand photos and videos. The main thing is not to rush and follow the instructions.

When to change rear pads Almera Classic: signs of wear

Drum brakes on Nissan Almera Classic wear out slower than disk ones, but their condition must be monitored at least once every 20 thousand km. The main symptoms that the pads require replacement:

• 🔊 Creaking or whistling when braking (especially at low speeds) - often indicates complete wear of the friction layer.
• 🚗 Increased brake pedal travel — the pads are worn out and the pistons of the working cylinder are extended too far.
• 🔥 Overheating of the rear wheels after a trip - may indicate jamming of the pads or wear of the drum.
• 🛑 Uneven braking (the car pulls to the side) - one of the pads is worn out more or the cylinder piston is jammed.
• 🔧 Visual wear: friction layer thickness less 1.5–2 mm (the norm for most pads).

On Almera Classic there are often pads at the back with metal wear indicators - if they begin to scratch the drum, a characteristic squeak is heard. But do not confuse it with a squeak caused by dirt or corrosion! To accurately diagnose the problem, you will have to remove the drum and inspect the pads visually.

⚠️ Attention! If deep grooves or a “step” along the edge appear on the inside of the drum, this is a sign of critical wear. In this case, you will need not only replacing the pads, but also grooving or replacing the drum itself. Ignoring the problem will result in brake fluid leakage and brake failure.

Another indirect sign - brake fluid leakage near the rear wheel. This may indicate damage to the seals in the working cylinder, which often happens when the pads are worn too badly (the pistons extend too far and tear the seals).

Which pads to choose for Nissan Almera Classic: original vs analogues

Original rear pads for Almera Classic (article 40520-4M000 or 40520-4M001 depending on the year) are expensive, but guarantee compatibility with the system. However, there are worthy analogues on the market that are not inferior in quality, but are 30–50% cheaper. The main thing is to avoid cheap no-name brands, which can become dusty or wear out quickly.

Brand	Article	Approximate price (per set)	Features
Nissan (original)	40520-4M000	3 500–4 200 ₽	High quality, minimal drum wear, but high price.
Akebono	ACT907A	2 800–3 300 ₽	Soft friction material, low dust, suitable for quiet driving.
Brembo	P 24 056	3 000–3 600 ₽	Good braking, but may squeak for the first 200–300 km.
TRW	GDB1436	2 500–3 000 ₽	Optimal price/quality ratio, suitable for urban use.
Bosch	0 986 494 720	2 700–3 200 ₽	Long service life, but may be tougher than the original.

When choosing pads, pay attention to:

• 🔹 Friction material composition: semi-metallic pads last longer, but wear out the drum more; ceramic ones are softer, but more expensive.
• 🔹 Presence of wear sensor (not available on all analogues).
• 🔹 Complete set: The kit should contain pads, springs and retainers (sometimes sold separately).

On Almera Classic with ABS, the speed sensor is attached to the hub, rather than to the brake shield - this simplifies replacing pads, since there is no need to disconnect the wiring. However, if you buy pads with an integrated wear sensor (rare, but it happens), make sure that the connector fits your model.

Tools and preparation for replacement: what you will need

To replace the rear pads with Nissan Almera Classic don't need a professional tool, but there are several mandatory positions:

• 🔧 Jack And supports (or “goats”) - never work on a machine that is only standing on a jack!
• 🔧 Balloon wrench for removing wheels.
• 🔧 Pliers (preferably with long jaws) for removing springs.
• 🔧 Flat blade screwdriver (for prying off the protective caps).
• 🔧 10 and 12 mm head with ratchet handle.
• 🔧 WD-40 or equivalent — stuck bolts and springs cannot be removed without it.
• 🔧 DOT-4 brake fluid (in case of bleeding the system).
• 🔧 Hammer (rubber or regular) to remove the drum.
• 🔧 Metal brush for cleaning the brake shield.

Also prepare:

• 🧤 Gloves (Brake dust is harmful to the skin).
• 📸 Smartphone for photographing the disassembly stages (useful during assembly).
• 🧴 Copper grease for guide pads (do not use graphite!).

Before starting work:

1. Park the car flat surface and tighten the handbrake.
2. Loosen the rear wheel nuts (but do not remove them completely!).
3. Open the hood and release the pressure in the brake system by pressing the brake pedal 3-4 times (this will make it easier to remove the drum).
4. If you plan to change the pads on both sides, do it one by oneso that one side always remains assembled (useful for comparison).

⚠️ Attention! Do not use gasoline or solvents to clean brake mechanisms - they will destroy the rubber seals. It is better to take a special brake cleaner (Brembo Cleaner or analogues).

Step-by-step instructions: how to remove old pads

The most important stage is dismantling the old kit. On Almera Classic there are drum brakes at the rear automatic gap adjustment, so it is important not to damage the mechanism. Follow the instructions:

1. Remove the wheel and clean the brake shield from dirt with a brush. If the drum is stuck, treat it along the edge WD-40 and wait 5-10 minutes.

2. Remove the drum:

   • Unscrew the guide pins (if any) with the head on 12 mm.
   • Gently tap the edge of the drum through the wooden spacer with a hammer (so as not to damage it).
   • If the drum cannot be removed, check whether it is jammed on the hub due to corrosion. As a last resort, use a puller.

3. Inspect the mechanism:

   • Check status working cylinder — if it is wet or there are traces of leaks, it needs to be replaced.
   • Assess drum wear: if the inner diameter exceeds 201.5 mm (for a 200 mm drum), grooving or replacement is required.

4. Remove the springs and pads:

   • Using pliers, remove the upper and lower tension springs.
   • Disconnect the handbrake cable from the shoe lever (remember or take a photo of how it was attached!).
   • Remove the retaining pins and pull out the pads.

At this stage, difficulties often arise with stuck springs. If they do not give in, do not pull by force - treat WD-40 and use a special puller or long-nose pliers. If the spring bursts, be sure to replace it with a new one (they are sold separately).

What to do if the drum cannot be removed?

If the drum is stuck to the hub, try the following methods:

1. Treat the joint area with penetrating lubricant and wait 15–20 minutes.

2. Tap the edge of the drum with a hammer through a wooden block (not in the center!).

3. Screw two bolts into the drum threaded holes (if there are any) and tighten them evenly - this will help “slide” the drum off the hub.

4. As a last resort, use a drum puller (you can rent it at a car service center).

Do not use excessive force - you may damage the wheel bearing!

After removing the pads, inspect:

• 🔍 Working cylinder condition - if the pistons do not move or fluid is leaking, the cylinder must be replaced.
• 🔍 Drum thickness - if it is less 1.0 mm from the nominal value, the drum needs to be ground or replaced.
• 🔍 Handbrake cable condition - it should move freely in the shell, without scoring.

Installing new pads and assembling the mechanism

Before installing new pads necessarily Clean all parts of the brake mechanism from dirt and old grease. Use brake cleaner and a brush. Then:

1. Apply lubricant:

   • Thin layer copper grease treat the contact points between the pads and the brake shield (but not the friction surface!).
   • Lubricate the threads of the guide pins (if equipped).

2. Install new pads:

   • Place the pads on the support pins, observing the position (the front and rear pads are different!).
   • Connect the handbrake cable to the lever on the block (according to your photo).
   • Install the tension springs (start with the top, then the bottom).

3. Adjust the gap:

   • On Almera Classic The gap is adjusted automatically, but after replacing the pads you need to manually retract the cylinder pistons.
   • To do this, use two screwdrivers: carefully press the pistons inside the cylinder, rotating the adjusting mechanism.

4. Install the drum:

   • Place the drum on the hub and tighten the guide pins (tightening torque - 8–10 Nm).
   • Turn the drum by hand - it should rotate freely, without jamming.

After assembly press the brake pedal several timesso that the pads fall into place. Then check the operation of the handbrake:

• 🔘 Raise the lever 3-4 clicks - the rear wheels should be locked.
• 🔘 Lower the lever - the wheels should rotate freely.

⚠️ Attention! If after replacing the pads the handbrake does not hold or is too tight, you will need cable adjustment. On Almera Classic it is performed under the car, next to the handbrake lever (you need to loosen or tighten the lock nut).

If you notice that the brake pedal has become soft or “sinking”, this may mean air entering the system. In this case you will need bleeding the brakes (start from the rear right wheel).

Typical replacement mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced car owners sometimes make mistakes that lead to squeaking, uneven braking, or premature wear. Here are the most common mistakes on Almera Classic:

• 🚫 Incorrect pad installation (right/left or front/back are mixed up). This leads to uneven wear and the car slips when braking.
• 🚫 Lack of lubrication at contact points — the pads will “stick” to the shield, which will cause creaking and accelerated wear.
• 🚫 Handbrake cable tightening — the pads will constantly rub against the drum, overheating it and reducing its service life.
• 🚫 Ignoring drum status - if it is not sharpened or replaced when there are deep grooves, the new pads will quickly wear out.
• 🚫 Incorrect clearance adjustment - if the cylinder pistons are not brought together, the drum will not fall into place.

Another common problem is working cylinder jamming. If after replacing the pads one of the wheels gets hotter than the other, check:

• 🔧 Mobility of the cylinder pistons (they should be easily pressed with a screwdriver).
• 🔧 No brake fluid leaks.
• 🔧 Condition of the anthers (if they are torn, the cylinder will soon fail).

If the cylinder is faulty, it must be replaced a couple (even if the second one is still working). On Almera Classic original cylinders fit (40510-4M000) or analogues from Ate, TRW.

Also don't forget about running in new pads:

• Avoid sudden braking for the first 100 km.
• Do not keep your foot on the brake pedal while driving.
• After running in, check the gap between the pads and the drum (it should be 0.1–0.15 mm).

Should I go to a service center or do it myself?

Replacing rear pads with Nissan Almera Classic - a task of medium complexity. If you have experience working with the brake system (for example, you have already changed the front pads or bled the brakes), then you can handle it yourself for 1.5–2 hours. Advantages of self-replacement:

• ✅ Savings: in the service the work will cost 1 500–2 500 ₽ (plus the cost of spare parts).
• ✅ Quality control: You know exactly which pads are installed and how the job was done.
• ✅ Experience: the ability to service brakes will be useful in the future.

However, there are cases when it is better to turn to professionals:

• ❌ No tool (for example, a drum puller or special pliers).
• ❌ Problems detected with the cylinders or handbrake cable — their repair requires experience.
• ❌ No time or confidence — errors in the braking system are critical to safety.

If you decide to do it yourself, here average prices for service work (for comparison):

Type of work	Cost (₽)
Replacing rear pads (set)	1 500–2 500
Drum grooving (pair)	1 000–1 500
Replacing the working cylinder (one)	800–1 200
Adjusting the hand brake	300–500
Bleeding the brakes	500–800

If you've never worked with drum brakes, try it first watch the video on replacement on your model or practice disassembling. This will help you avoid common mistakes.

FAQ: answers to frequently asked questions

Is it possible to change the pads on only one wheel?

No, the pads are always changed a couple (on both rear wheels). If you replace only one side, the braking force will be uneven, which will lead to the car pulling away when braking and accelerated wear.

How often should you check your rear brakes? Almera Classic?

It is recommended to inspect the pads and drums every 20 thousand km or once a year. If you often drive around the city with frequent braking, it is better to reduce the interval to 15 thousand km.

What to do if the brake squeaks after replacing the pads?

Creaking can occur for several reasons:

• The new pads have not yet gotten used to it (it will take 100–200 km).
• There is dirt or grease left on the pads or drum (needs to be cleaned).
• Low quality pads (cheap analogues often creak).
• Incorrect installation (for example, missing anti-squeak plate).

If the squeaking does not go away, check the quality of the pads and the correct assembly.

Do I need to bleed the brakes after replacing the rear pads?

Pumping is only needed if:

• Have you disconnected the brake lines?
• Brake fluid leaks were detected.
• The brake pedal has become soft.

If you just changed the pads and did not touch the hydraulics, bleeding is not required.

What kind of brake fluid to pour into Almera Classic?

Manufacturer recommends DOT-4. System volume - approx. 0.5 l, but for replacement 1 liter is enough (to flush the system). Popular brands: Castrol, Motul, Liqui Moly.