Regular brake system maintenance is fundamental to the safety of any vehicle, and Nissan Almera Classic is no exception. Many owners of this model are faced with the need to replace the rear brake pads, since they experience enormous loads during heavy braking and use of the handbrake. Ignoring friction lining wear can lead to the destruction of brake drums, which entails expensive repairs and a serious hazard on the road.
Replacement process on the rear axle Nissan Almera Classic has its own specific features that differ from working with front calipers. It uses a drum design with an integrated manual drive mechanism, which requires care during disassembly and correct clearance adjustment after assembly. If you plan to do the work yourself, you will need a certain set of tools and knowledge of the nuances of suspension design.
In this article we will analyze in detail each stage of work, from wheel removal to final adjustment of the parking brake cables. We will pay attention to the selection of high-quality components, since budget analogues often cause squeaks and uneven wear. We will also consider typical mistakes that beginners make when installing new brake pads.
Preparation of the workplace and necessary tools
Before you start working directly with the car, you need to properly organize the space. You will need a level area, preferably with a hole or overpass, although you can get by with a jack if you have reliable stands. Make sure Nissan Almera Classic securely fixed: engage first gear and place chocks under the front wheels.
To complete the task you will need a set of wrenches and a specialized tool. The standard set includes 12, 14 and 17 mm sockets, as well as flat and Phillips screwdrivers. Particular attention should be paid to the lock ring remover, since without it it will be extremely difficult to remove the brake wheel unless you plan to use brute force.
- 🔧 Socket set and ratchet with extensions
- 🔨 Hammer and punch for knocking out guides
- 🗜️ Special lock washer remover or pliers
- 🧴Can of brake cleaner and copper grease
- 🛠️ Vise or special tool for compressing the piston
Don't forget to prepare a container to collect old grease and rags. Cleanliness during the work process plays a critical role: dust from old pads is toxic, so it is better to work with a respirator and gloves. If you are not experienced with the brake system, take the time to study the assembly diagram so you don't get confused about the springs during assembly.
⚠️ Attention: Never use gasoline or solvents to clean brakes, as they can damage the rubber seals and leave a greasy film that reduces braking efficiency. Use only specialized alcohol-based cleaners.
Removing the brake drum and inspecting the unit
Removing the wheel is only the first step. Next, you have to remove the brake drum itself, which may become stuck to the hub due to corrosion or wear and tear. If the drum is hard to move, try tapping it lightly with a rubber mallet through a wooden spacer to avoid damaging the surface.
In some cases on Nissan Almera Classic The drum is held in place by a screw, which often sticks. Before unscrewing, be sure to treat the connection with penetrating lubricant and leave for 10-15 minutes. If the screw is stripped, you will have to use an extractor or carefully drill it out, which makes the task much more difficult.
After removing the drum, you will have full access to the internal mechanism. Carefully inspect the condition of the brake disc (drum) for scoring, cracks and deep wear. Also check the condition of the guide pins and rubber boots. If the parts show severe corrosion, they must be replaced before installing new pads.
- 👀 Check the drum for deep marks and cracks
- 🔍 Assess the condition of the guide pins and their lubrication
- 🌪️ Clean the internal cavity from dust and dirt
If the drum is worn beyond the acceptable limit, it must be ground or replaced entirely. Operating a car with a damaged drum will lead to rapid failure of even the most expensive pads. Remember that the quality of contact between the friction lining and the drum surface directly affects the length of the braking distance.
- 1 hour
- 2-3 hours
- 4 hours or more
- Didn't do it myself
Disassembling the mechanism and replacing springs
The most important step is dismantling the old set of pads. It is important here to remember the location of all the springs and levers, since it is very easy to confuse them. It is best to take a photo of the assembly on your phone before disassembling it or sketch out a diagram of the location of the springs. Use a special hook or pliers to remove tension springs that are under a lot of force.
Taking off the old ones brake pads, be careful with the handbrake spacer lever. It may become disengaged and you will have to work hard to get it back into place. Do not lose the spacer bar and adjuster - they often become a source of problems during assembly if they are jammed by corrosion.
It is recommended to replace all springs with new ones, even if the old ones appear intact. Over time, the metal loses its elasticity, and the return springs will not be able to fully release the pads, which will lead to their overheating and increased wear. Also check the condition of the spacer bar and, if necessary, replace it with a new one.
☑️ Dismantling the mechanism
When dismantling, pay attention to the condition of the working cylinder piston boot. If it is torn or leaking brake fluid, the cylinder will need to be replaced or rebuilt. Moisture getting inside the cylinder will lead to souring of the pistons and subsequent jamming of the wheel.
⚠️ Attention: When removing springs, use special clamps, as they are under tension and can fly out with great force, injuring your eyes or face. Wear safety glasses!
Cleaning, lubricating and installing new components
After complete disassembly of the unit, it is necessary to thoroughly clean all metal parts from old dust and carbon deposits. Use a wire brush and brake cleaner to scrub the hub, guide pins, and spacer bar. A clean surface ensures smooth movement of the pads and eliminates jamming.
The guide pins and the contact points of the pads with the support shield must be lubricated with a special high-temperature lubricant. Never apply lubricant to the working surfaces of the friction linings or on the inside of the brake drum. This will result in no braking at all. Use only silicone or ceramic brake lubricants.
- 🧼 Thoroughly clean all metal surfaces from dust
- 🛢️ Lubricate the guide pins and contact points
- 🔩 Check the movement of the spacer bar and the adjustment mechanism
Installation of new pads begins with the installation of the handbrake spacer lever. Make sure it is properly locked and that its travel is not restricted. Then install the upper and lower springs, using the tool to tension them. Be careful not to damage the rubber tips of the springs.
It is important to install the lock washers correctly on the guide pins. They should be pressed tightly against the backing board, but not so tight that the pads cannot move. If you use new springs, the assembly process will be much easier and more reliable.
How to properly lubricate the guides?
Lubricate only the cylindrical part of the pin, avoiding contact with the friction linings and the working surface of the drum. Excess lubricant can leak out and contaminate the pads.
Before installing the drum, make sure that the gap adjustment mechanism is in the minimum position. This will allow you to put the drum on the hub without any problems. If the drum does not fit, check to see if the shoes are too far apart.
Proper lubrication of the guides and cleanliness of the parts is the key to the absence of squeaks and even wear of the brake pads in the future.
Assembly, adjustment and operation check
After installing new pads and putting on the drum, it is necessary to adjust the gap between the friction linings and the working surface of the drum. On Nissan Almera Classic this is done through a technological hole in the support panel using a screwdriver or a special wrench. Turn the adjusting mechanism until the shoes lightly touch the drum as it rotates.
Then you need to adjust the tension of the parking brake cables. This is done under the car in the area of the rear axle. The tension should be such that the handbrake locks the wheels with 2-4 clicks of the lever. Too little tension will cause the car to slide away on a slope, and too much tension will result in constant braking.
Before starting to drive, be sure to press the brake pedal several times so that the pistons of the working cylinders take their working position. This is a critical step because once removed the shoes are too far away from the drum and the first pedal stroke may be very soft or ineffective.
Check the operation of the handbrake by placing the car on a slight slope. The wheels must be locked securely. Also listen for any extraneous sounds when the wheels rotate. If you hear grinding or rubbing, you may not have adjusted the gap fully or the guides may not have been properly lubricated.
| Parameter | Norm | Deviation | Action |
|---|---|---|---|
| Brake pedal travel | up to 120 mm | more than 150 mm | Check the air in the system |
| Handbrake clicks | 2-4 clicks | more than 5 clicks | Adjust the cable |
| Pad thickness | more than 1.5 mm | less than 1.5 mm | Urgent replacement |
| Creaking noise when braking | missing | present | Check lubrication and wear |
After replacing the pads, avoid sharp braking for the first 200-300 km to allow the friction linings to get used to the surface of the drum.
Typical mistakes and tips for choosing spare parts
Many owners Nissan Almera Classic make the mistake of choosing the cheapest pads. Cheap materials often contain metal inclusions, which quickly wear out the drum and cause severe vibration. For this model, brands specializing in Japanese cars or original Nissan spare parts have proven themselves well.
Another common mistake is ignoring the condition of the working cylinders. If you replace the pads, but leave the old soured cylinders, the result will be short-lived. The cylinder may stop releasing the pad, which will lead to overheating and boiling of the brake fluid. With high mileage, it is better to change the complete set of cylinders.
Don't forget about anti-corrosion treatment. In Russian road conditions, the rear suspension and brake mechanisms suffer from salt and moisture. Regular cleaning and lubrication of contact groups will extend the life of the unit many times over. Use high-quality lubricants based on molybdenum disulfide or silicone.
When purchasing, pay attention to the presence of all necessary springs and clamps in the kit. Often in cheap sets the springs are too stiff or, conversely, weak, which disrupts the geometry of the mechanism. The ideal option is to purchase an original kit or certified analogues with a full set of fasteners.
The quality of brake pads directly affects not only safety, but also the life of brake drums, the replacement of which is much more expensive.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
Do I need to grind drums when replacing pads?
Grooving is required only if there are deep grooves, wear or runout on the surface of the drum. If the drum is within acceptable wear limits and has a smooth surface, simply clean it thoroughly. Grooving reduces the diameter of the drum, which reduces its service life.
Why do new pads squeak after replacement?
Creaking most often occurs due to a lack of lubrication at the contact points of the pads with the support shield or guides. The cause may also be incorrect installation of the springs or dirt getting on the friction lining. Check for lubrication and cleanliness of parts.
How do you understand that not only the block is worn out, but also the drum?
Visually inspect the inside of the drum. If deep grooves are visible, cracks or the edges of the drum have a pronounced lip that does not smooth out, it needs to be replaced. You can also measure the inside diameter with a caliper and compare it with the nominal value from the manual.
Is it possible to change only one pad on a side?
No, never change pads on only one side of the axle. This will lead to uneven braking, the car will pull to the side when braking, which is extremely dangerous. Always change pads in pairs on the same axle.
How long does it take to replace rear pads on a Nissan Almera Classic?
If you have experience and good tools, replacing one pair of rear pads takes about 1-1.5 hours. For a beginner, this process can take up to 2-3 hours, especially if you have to deal with stuck parts and adjust the handbrake.