Regular brake system maintenance is fundamental to the safety of any vehicle, and Nissan Almera Classic This is no exception. The rear brakes on this model are made in the form of a drum mechanism, which significantly simplifies the design, but requires a careful approach when replacing consumables. Many owners believe that rear pads wear out extremely rarely, but ignoring their condition can lead to wheel jamming or destruction of the drum working surface.

Replacement process Almera Classic has its own technical features related to the design of springs and clamps. Unlike disc brakes, it is important to properly compress the return springs and install the spreader bar to ensure proper operation of the handbrake. If you plan to do the work yourself, you will need a basic set of tools and knowledge of the sequence of actions, which will be discussed below.

Do not underestimate the complexity of working with rear drums: incorrect installation can lead to spontaneous braking or, conversely, to a lack of effect when pressing the pedal. In this article, we will analyze each stage of dismantling and installation, point out critical points and help you avoid typical mistakes that beginners make when servicing the suspension and chassis.

Preparation of tools and selection of necessary spare parts

Before starting any physical impact on the car, it is necessary to prepare the workplace and collect the required tools. For Nissan Almera Classic You will need a set of sockets, particularly 10, 12 and 14 millimeters, as well as a pry bar or a strong screwdriver for working with the springs. It is imperative to have a jack and reliable stands, since suspended work with one support is unacceptable due to the risk of collapse.

The choice of components plays a decisive role in the longevity of the braking system. Original pads Nissan They are of high quality material, but are often overpriced. An alternative can be high-quality analogues from trusted brands, such as Tokico, Nibk or TRW, which offer the optimal price-resource ratio.

Pay attention to the condition of the brake drum. If it has deep grooves or chips, replacing the pads alone will not solve the problem of braking performance. In such cases, either the drum will need to be grooved or it will need to be completely replaced. Also check the condition of the guide pins and rubber boots, as their wear can lead to souring of the mechanism.

  • 🛠️ Socket wrenches and sockets: set from 8 to 19 mm.
  • 🔧 Pliers and a special hook for removing springs.
  • 🧴 Aerosol lubricant for cleaning rust and WD-40.

⚠️ Attention! Never use lubricant on the running surface of new pads or inside the drum. Even a microscopic drop of oil getting on the friction material will make braking impossible and require replacing the entire pair.

The most critical aspect of preparation is selecting the correct return springs. Old springs often lose their elasticity, and if you install new pads on old springs, the mechanism may not fully expand. This will lead to overheating and rapid wear of parts.

📊 Which brand of brake pads do you think is the best for Nissan Almera Classic?
  • Original Nissan
  • TRW
  • Brembo
  • The cheapest analogue

Brake drum removal and visual inspection

Once the car is securely secured and the wheel is removed, you can begin to remove the brake drum. On Nissan Almera Classic The drum is held in place by two hex head screws, which often become stuck due to corrosion and dirt. Before unscrewing, it is recommended to generously treat them with penetrating lubricant and leave for 10-15 minutes.

If the screws are removed but the drum does not come off, do not use excessive force when hitting with a hammer. This can lead to deformation of the hub seat. Try gently tapping the end of the drum from different sides or using a puller if you have one. Sometimes it is enough to shake the drum a little to move it out of place.

It is important to check the condition of the wheel bearing, which opens after removing the drum. Play in the bearing is unacceptable, as it affects the runout of the drum and the uniform wear of the pads. If you feel free rotation or hear noise when cranking, the bearing needs to be replaced.

  • 🔍 Inspect the inner surface of the drum for cracks and deep marks.
  • 🧹 Clean the mechanism from brake dust using a brush and compressed air.
  • 🛑 Check the spring retainers, they should be intact and free of corrosion.

⚠️ Attention! Brake dust formed when pads wear out contains harmful particles. When cleaning the mechanism, be sure to use a respirator and safety glasses to avoid dust getting into your respiratory tract and eyes.

In some cases, the handbrake may need to be adjusted before removing the drum if it is too tight. Loosening the handbrake cable simplifies the process of removing and then installing new pads, since the release levers will not interfere with free movement.

What to do if the drum is stuck to the hub?

Use special pullers or gently heat the center of the drum with a blowtorch, avoiding heating the brake fluid and rubber seals. Sudden impacts can damage the wheel bearing.

Disassembling the mechanism and replacing the pads

Now that the drum is removed, the rear brake mechanism is exposed to you. The first step is to photograph the location of all the springs and levers, since their configuration may not be obvious to a beginner. Errors during assembly often lead to the fact that the pads simply will not fit into place or will not expand.

Dismantling begins with removing the upper springs that hold the pads closed. Use special pliers or a screwdriver to compress the spring and remove the pin. Be careful as the springs are under high tension and can shoot to the side if not grasped correctly.

Then disconnect the handbrake release lever and remove the lower spring. After this, the pads can be freely removed from the housing. Pay attention to the condition of the release bar: if it has signs of corrosion or is deformed, the mechanism may jam. It is recommended to lubricate the threads of the expansion screw with heat-resistant grease before installing new elements.

☑️ Dismantling old fittings

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Installation of new pads occurs in the reverse order. It is important to install the friction linings correctly so that they do not touch the drum when not in use. Check that all fasteners fit into their grooves with a characteristic click, which guarantees secure fastening.

Parameter Value for Almera Classic Note
Brake drum diameter 228 mm Maximum wear 230 mm
Pad thickness (new) 4.5 mm Minimum thickness 2.0 mm
Drum screw tightening torque 4 Nm It is very important not to overtighten!
Hub diameter 43 mm Check for wear

⚠️ Attention! When installing new pads, make sure they are not reversed (left and right side). The handbrake release mechanism has an asymmetrical design, and installation on the wrong side will result in the inability to tighten the handbrake.

Assembling and adjusting the hand brake

After installing the new pads, you must reassemble the mechanism in reverse order. First, the springs are put on, then the release levers are fixed. Pay special attention to the lower spring, as it works under the most difficult conditions and often breaks if installed incorrectly.

Before putting on the drum, you must make sure that the expansion bar is in the maximum open state. To do this, turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise until the pads are as narrow as possible. This will make it easy to put on the drum without the risk of damaging the new friction linings.

Assembly is completed by tightening the drum mounting screws and installing the wheel. Now you need to adjust the handbrake cable. The tension should be such that the handbrake lifts 4-6 clicks, while the wheels should rotate freely without rubbing.

  • 🔩 Tighten the drum mounting screws to a torque of 4 Nm using a torque wrench.
  • 🔧 Adjust the handbrake cable under the bottom of the car.
  • ✅ Check the free movement of the wheel after installation.

If you are unsure how to adjust the cable tension, refer to the manufacturer's specifications. Typically, the adjusting nut is located on the handbrake lever under the car or in the passenger compartment near the gearshift lever. Excessive tension will lead to overheating of the rear pads, and insufficient tension will reduce the effectiveness of emergency braking.

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Correctly adjusting the handbrake strikes a balance between securely holding the vehicle on a slope and preventing the pads from rubbing against the drum while driving.

Verification of work and final tests

After completing all work and installing the wheel, it is necessary to carry out a thorough check before leaving. First of all, rock the car up and down to make sure there are no extraneous sounds from the suspension. Then press the brake pedal several times until the pads click into place.

The first kilometers of movement should be done in a gentle manner. Avoid sudden braking and heavy loads on the braking system. This is necessary so that the new pads get used to the surface of the drum and the contact becomes uniform over the entire area.

Be sure to check the operation of the handbrake on level ground and on a slight incline. If the car holds it securely and does not roll back, then the adjustment is correct. If you experience squeaking or vibration during braking, you must stop immediately and check that the parts are installed correctly.

Don't forget that the braking system is a complex structure where a change in one element affects the entire system. If you only replaced the rear pads and the front pads were worn out, braking performance may change. It is recommended to check the condition of all components of the brake system at each maintenance.

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After replacing the pads, make several smooth stops at low speed to remove possible contamination from the surface and check the dynamics of the mechanism.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

One of the most common mistakes is using the wrong tools. Trying to compress the spring with a regular screwdriver often leads to slipping and injury. Use specialized tools or durable long-handled pliers for better leverage.

Another mistake is ignoring the condition of the guides and boots. If dirt or water gets into the mechanism, the release mechanism may jam. Regular cleaning and lubrication of the threaded joints of the spreader bar will extend the life of the brakes for years.

Also, many people forget about the need to replace springs. Old springs may not provide complete release of the pads, which will lead to their constant friction against the drum. This causes overheating, drum deformation and loss of braking efficiency. Always replace springs as a set along with pads.

Why do new pads squeak?

Creaking can occur due to poor lapping, lack of lubrication at the contact points between the pads and the support plate, or the presence of foreign particles between the friction layer and the drum.

Don't skimp on the quality of spare parts. Cheap pads may have an uneven layer of friction material, which will lead to drum beating and vibration when braking. Choose proven brands that guarantee stable performance in all weather conditions.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions

How often do you need to change the rear pads on a Nissan Almera Classic?

The average resource of rear drum pads ranges from 60 to 100 thousand kilometers, depending on driving style and road quality. However, it is recommended to carry out a visual inspection at every scheduled maintenance.

Can only one side of the rear brakes be replaced?

Absolutely not. Brake pads should always be replaced as a set on one axle. Different degrees of wear or different material characteristics will lead to uneven braking and the vehicle pulling to the side during an emergency stop.

What should I do if the drum does not come off after unscrewing the screws?

Perhaps the drum is stuck to the hub or the handbrake mechanism is not adjusted. Try loosening the handbrake cable, treating the joint with penetrating lubricant and gently tapping the drum with a wooden mallet. If that doesn't help, use a puller.

Do I need to grind the drum when replacing pads?

It depends on the condition of the working surface. If the depth of the grooves does not exceed 0.5 mm, you can do without grooving. For deeper damage, a groove is required, otherwise the new pads will not fit tightly and braking will be ineffective.

How can you tell if the pads are worn out?

Typically wear is indicated by squeaking when braking, decreased braking efficiency, or vibration in the steering wheel. On Nissan Almera Classic A wear indicator may also be triggered if installed, but most often this is determined by visual inspection through the service holes or by removing the drum.