The appearance of a rhythmic knocking or hum when the wheels are turned out Nissan Murano the second generation (Z51) often indicates problems with the drive. Crossover owners often encounter the fact that the inner part of the constant velocity joint (CV joint) wears out faster than the outer part. This is due to the constant loads on axial sliding during suspension operation.

Ignoring the symptoms can lead to jamming of the mechanism and complete loss of control while driving. Replacing the inner CV joint requires care, since assembly errors can cause vibration of the steering wheel or repeated rapid failure of the unit. It is important to understand the difference between internal and external wear symptoms so as not to replace unnecessary parts.

Diagnostics and symptoms of malfunction

The problem can be identified before disassembling the suspension. A characteristic sound when accelerating with the wheels turned out is a classic symptom, but it can indicate either an external or internal assembly. However, if a knocking noise occurs when abruptly changing gears (from “Drive” to “Reverse” or vice versa) while standing still or when starting from a stop, the internal tripod is to blame.

A visual inspection also provides a lot of information. If traces of grease leaks are visible in the area of ​​the inner race or the boot is damaged, this is a sure sign of an imminent breakdown. Sometimes wear manifests itself in the form of play, which is felt by hand when rocking the axle shaft along the axis of rotation.

After diagnostics, you need to make a decision: change only the CV joint or change the axle shaft assembly. On Nissan Murano Z51 It is often more profitable to install a restored axle shaft, since the cost of a new original part exceeds the price of a high-quality analogue.

Selection of spare parts and necessary tools

When choosing a new internal CV joint for your crossover, it is important to focus not only on the brand, but also on the type of design. For Nissan Murano Both original parts and high-quality analogues from trusted manufacturers, such as Loebro, GKN or Spicer. Cheap Chinese products often cannot withstand the loads and require replacement after just a few thousand kilometers.

You will need a specialized set of tools for safe dismantling. Regular wrenches may not be effective enough to loosen a hub nut that is being tightened with enormous torque. It is necessary to have a retaining ring remover and a mandrel for pressing the new CV joint onto the shaft.

  • 🔧 Extended wrench and 30 or 32 mm socket (for hub nut)
  • 🔨 Circlip puller (spacer or special type pliers)
  • ⚙️ Puller for axle shaft from the hub
  • 🛢️ New lubricant for CV joints and retaining ring

Preparing the car for work

Before starting work, you must securely secure the vehicle. Raise the front end on a lift or use a jack with secure stands. Remove the wheel and unscrew the brake caliper, hanging it on a wire so as not to damage the brake hose.

Next, remove the brake disc and unscrew the hub nut. If the nut does not budge, use penetrating lubricant and heat. It is important not to damage the threads on the shaft. After unscrewing the nut, you can begin to disconnect the arms and pull the axle shaft out of the hub.

📊 What type of drive does your car have?
  • Front
  • Full (4WD)
  • Posterior (rare)
  • I don't know

The process of dismantling the axle shaft and old CV joint

To remove the axle shaft from the differential gearbox, you must carefully pry it off with a pry bar. Do not use excessive force to avoid damaging the seal. If the axle shaft is stuck, you can use a special puller or a wooden spacer to knock it out through the hub.

After removing the axle shaft outward, you need to remove the old inner CV joint. To do this, bend the tab of the lock washer and unpin the shaft. Next, using a mandrel and a hammer, carefully knock out the CV joint from the shaft. Be careful not to damage the shaft seat, otherwise the new unit will hang loose.

Pay special attention to the condition of the gearbox seal. If it is worn or has lost its elasticity, it must be replaced. Otherwise, new lubricant will leak out, and the CV joint will quickly fail due to lack of lubrication and dirt.

☑️ Preparation for replacement

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Installing a new inner CV joint

Installation of a new unit begins with cleaning the shaft of old rust and grease. Apply fresh lubricant to the shaft and inside the CV race. Make sure you use the manufacturer's recommended tripod lubricant (usually MoS2 molybdenum disulfide).

Press the new CV joint onto the shaft using a mandrel and a hammer. Impacts must be applied strictly to the end of the cage, without touching the balls or needle bearings inside. After installation, secure the CV joint with a new retaining ring, which usually comes with the spare part.

It is important to check that the ring is seated tightly in the groove. Try to rock the CV joint a little along the shaft - there should be no play. If there is play, it means that the ring is not fully seated in the groove or is of the wrong size. Do not skimp on the retaining ring, as its failure will lead to the CV joint flying out while driving.

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Before installing the axle shaft into the gearbox, check the condition of the seal. If it is old, replace it to avoid differential oil leaks.

Assembly and performance testing

Reassemble the pendant in reverse order. Insert the axle shaft into the differential until you hear a characteristic click, which confirms that the retaining ring is in the groove. Install the hub, put on the caliper and tighten the brake disc.

Tighten the hub nut to the recommended torque. For Nissan Murano Z51 this moment is usually about 200-250 Nm, but it is better to check in the service book. Be sure to bend the tab of the lock washer on the nut so that it does not unscrew.

After assembly, lower the vehicle and test drive it. Listen carefully to sounds when accelerating and braking. If the knocking noises disappear, the job is completed successfully. If the vibration remains, there may be a problem with the outer CV joint or wheel balancing.

⚠️ Attention: Never use an old snap ring when replacing a CV joint. It is deformed during dismantling and will not provide reliable fixation of the new unit.

What to do if the CV joint is stuck in the gearbox?

If the axle shaft does not come out of the gearbox, try rocking it slightly or using a wooden spacer. Do not hit the shaft or seal directly with a hammer. Sometimes heating the gear housing around the seat helps, as the metal expands and the clamp weakens.-->

Common mistakes and expert advice

Many craftsmen make the mistake of trying to knock out the old CV joint without removing it from the shaft. This may lead to destruction of the inner race. Always use a mandrel that distributes the force evenly over the entire surface of the part.

Another common problem is the wheel nut not being properly tightened. Tightening too loose will cause play in the hub bearing, and tightening too tightly can damage the threads or deform the shaft. Use a torque wrench for precise fixation.

  • ✅ Always replace the locking ring with a new one
  • ✅ Check the condition of the gearbox seal
  • ✅ Use high-quality lubricant
  • ✅ Check the tightness of the hub nut with a torque wrench