Nissan Almera Classic (also known as Nissan Sunny in some countries) is a reliable car, but even its consumables wear out over time. One of the most insidious elements is drive seal (or CV joint seal), which if it fails can lead to oil leakage from the gearbox and serious damage. If you notice oil stains under the car on the drive side or hear a characteristic crunch when turning, it’s time to act.
In this article you will find step-by-step instructions for replacing the drive seal on Almera Classic (body N16, engines QG15DE/QG18DE), including a list of tools, photographs of key steps and diagnostic tips. We will also look at typical mistakes that beginners make and give recommendations on choosing spare parts. If you have never done such repairs, don’t worry - with the right approach, even a novice car enthusiast can do the task.
Signs of a faulty drive seal
Drive seal (aka inner CV joint oil seal) is responsible for the tightness of the connection between the gearbox and the drive shaft. When it wears out, symptoms appear that are hard to miss:
- 🔴 Oil stains under the car from the front-wheel drive (especially after parking). Gearbox oil has a reddish or brown tint and a specific odor.
- 🔊 Crunching or grinding noise when turning, accelerating or driving at low speeds. This is a sign that dirt or moisture has entered the CV joint due to a broken seal.
- 📉 Oil leak from gearbox. If the oil level in the box drops for no apparent reason, first check the condition of the seals.
- 🚗 Vibrations or jerking when starting off. This may indicate damage to the CV joint due to lack of lubrication.
It is important to distinguish a malfunctioning drive seal from problems with axle shaft seal (if you have a rear-wheel drive version) or gearbox oil seal. On Almera Classic With front-wheel drive, the oil seals of the internal CV joints most often suffer, as they experience a large load. If you ignore the problem, oil will leak out of the gearbox, which will lead to jamming of the box or failure of the differential.
⚠️ Attention: If you notice that oil from the gearbox gets onto the brake pads or discs, stop using the car immediately! This can lead to complete loss of brakes.
Tools and materials for replacement
Before starting work, prepare everything you need. To replace the drive oil seal with Nissan Almera Classic you will need:
| Category | Name | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Tools | Socket set (10–24 mm) | It is necessary to have a head on 32 mm for hub nut |
| Tools | Socket wrench or ratchet handle | It is more convenient to use a wrench with an extension cord |
| Tools | Mount or puller for CV joint | You can get by with a pry bar, but a puller simplifies the task |
| Tools | Torque wrench | To properly tighten the hub nut (torque 220–250 Nm) |
| Consumables | Drive oil seal (internal) | Original article: 38340-4M000 (for N16) |
| Consumables | Gearbox oil (75W-80 or 75W-90) | Volume: ~2 liters (for a complete replacement) |
Also don't forget about:
- 🧰 Penetrating lubricant (For example, WD-40 or Liqui Moly) to unscrew stuck nuts.
- 🧴 Sealant (For example, Loctite 574) for processing the oil seal seat.
- 🧤 Gloves and rags — the work is dirty, the oil from the gearbox is difficult to wash off.
- 🔧 Jack and stops (or a lift, if possible).
⚠️ Attention: Do not use cheap analogues of seals from unknown brands! Low-quality oil seals often harden in the cold or quickly wear out, which leads to repeated oil leakage. Original or proven brands (Corteco, Elring, SKF) is the best choice.
- Head set
- Torque wrench
- CV joint puller
- None of the above
Preparing the car for repair
Before you begin replacing the oil seal, you must properly prepare the car. This will help avoid injury and make parts easier to access.
Step 1. Install on a flat surface. Stop the engine, engage first gear (or P on automatic transmission) and put the car on the handbrake. Place chocks under the rear wheels to prevent them from rolling away.
Step 2: Jacking up and removing the wheel. Loosen the wheel nuts, then jack up the vehicle on the side of the oil seal being replaced and remove the wheel. For reliability, install a support under the threshold.
Step 3. Drain the oil from the gearbox. This is a mandatory step, since when the drive is removed, oil will begin to leak out. Place a container with a volume of at least 2 liters, unscrew the drain plug (the key is on 24 mm) and wait until the oil drains. If the oil has not been changed for a long time, it is better to completely replace it after repair.
Loosen the wheel nuts|Raise the car on a jack and install supports|Drain the oil from the gearbox|Clean the drive and gearbox from dirt-->
Step 4: Cleaning the work area. Thoroughly clean the gearbox housing and drive shaft from dirt and oil. This will help prevent debris from getting inside the box when removing the drive. Use a wire brush and rags soaked in solvent.
If the hub nut does not come off, do not use excessive force - you risk stripping the threads. Spray it generously with penetrating lubricant and let it sit for 10-15 minutes. If that doesn't work, use an impact wrench or wrench extension.
Step-by-step instructions for replacing the drive seal
Now we move on to the most important stage - dismantling the old oil seal and installing a new one. Follow the instructions carefully to avoid damaging the parts.
Step 1: Removing the hub nut. This nut is tightened with a high torque (220–250 Nm), so it can be difficult to unscrew it. Use the head on 32 mm and a long lever. If the car has recently been driven, let the hub cool down - hot metal expands, making it more difficult to unscrew.
Step 2. Disconnecting the CV joint from the hub. Unscrew the two bolts securing the ball joint (the key is on 14 mm), then carefully press the CV joint out of the hub. To do this, you can use a pry bar to pry up the drive shaft. Be careful not to damage the CV boot!
Step 3. Removing the drive from the gearbox. Pry up the inner CV joint with a pry bar and pull it out of the box. Be prepared for the possibility that residual oil may leak from the gearbox. If the drive is stuck, do not hit it with a hammer - use a puller or carefully loosen the shaft.
Step 4. Dismantling the old oil seal. After removing the drive, you will see the oil seal in the gearbox seat. Carefully pry it with a screwdriver or a special puller and pull it out. Clean the seat from any remaining sealant and oil.
Step 5: Installing a new oil seal. Before installation, lubricate the seal lip with transmission oil. Carefully press it into place using a mandrel of a suitable diameter (you can use an old oil seal as a mandrel). Make sure that the oil seal is seated evenly, without distortion.
Step 6. Reassemble in reverse order. Insert the drive back into the transmission, secure the CV joint in the hub and tighten the hub nut with a torque wrench. Don't forget to fill the gearbox with fresh oil!
What to do if the drive does not fit back into the gearbox?
If the drive does not want to “enter” the box, check:
1. Is the oil seal installed correctly (is it skewed).
2. Is there any damage to the shaft splines or the gearbox seat?
3. Does the length of the shaft match the original (sometimes there are deviations on non-original drives).
If the problem persists, try carefully rotating the shaft during installation - sometimes the splines “fall into place” only in a certain position.
Typical mistakes when replacing the drive seal
Even experienced car enthusiasts sometimes make mistakes that lead to repeated oil leaks or damage to parts. Here are the most common of them:
- 🔧 Incorrect seal fitting. If the oil seal is installed crookedly, it will leak oil from the first day. Always use a mandrel and ensure the fit is even.
- 🛠️ Ignoring the condition of the CV joint. If, when replacing the oil seal, you notice damage on the CV joint (cracks in the boot, play), it also needs to be replaced. Otherwise, the new oil seal will quickly fail.
- 🔩 Incorrect tightening of the hub nut. Weak tightening will lead to play, and too strong will cause damage to the bearing. Always use a torque wrench!
- 🚫 Saving on gearbox oil. If you drain the old oil, do not put dirty oil back in! This will reduce the life of the box.
Another common mistake is using sealant on the oil seal. The sealant is applied only to the seat in the gearbox, but not to the oil seal itself! Excess sealant can get inside the box and clog the channels.
⚠️ Attention: If after replacing the oil seal you notice that oil continues to ooze, do not rush to blame the oil seal. Check the oil level in the gearbox - sometimes the “leak” turns out to be simply an overflow when the oil is squeezed out through the breather.
The most common cause of repeated leakage is a poor-quality seal or its incorrect installation. If the oil seal is not original, it can harden in the cold and leak oil after only 5–10 thousand km.
How to check operation after replacement
After assembly, you need to make sure that the repair was successful. Here's what to do:
- Check for leaks. Start the engine and let it run for 5-10 minutes. Inspect the installation site of the oil seal - there should not be even small drops of oil.
- Test drive. Drive 5–10 km, including turns and accelerations. Listen for any extraneous sounds (crunching, grinding).
- Oil level control. After 100–200 km, check the oil level in the gearbox. If it falls, it means the oil seal is leaking oil.
If everything is in order, the repair can be considered successful. However, remember: even a high-quality oil seal wears out over time. It is recommended to check its condition every 20–30 thousand km, especially if you often drive off-road or in high humidity conditions.
Also note condition of CV joint boots. If they are cracked or torn, they need to be replaced urgently - dirt getting into the CV joint will lead to its rapid wear, and this is a more expensive repair.
Cost of replacing the drive oil seal in the service
If you are not confident in your abilities, you can contact a car service. Cost of replacing the drive seal Nissan Almera Classic varies depending on region and service level:
| Type of work | Cost (RUB) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Replacing one oil seal | 1 500 – 3 000 | Does not include the cost of spare parts |
| Replacement of oil seal + gearbox oil | 3 000 – 5 000 | Includes oil drain/fill |
| Oil seal replacement + CV joint diagnostics | 4 000 – 7 000 | Includes checking for play and boot condition |
| Original oil seal (spare part) | 800 – 1 500 | Price depends on supplier |
You can save money if you buy the oil seal yourself (original or proven analogue) and come to the service center only to get the work done. However, remember: cheap oil seals often do not last long, and after a year or two you will have to repeat the repair.
If you decide to do everything yourself, your costs will be limited to the cost of the oil seal and gearbox oil (about 2,000–3,000 rubles when using original spare parts).
FAQ: Frequently asked questions about replacing the drive oil seal
Is it possible to drive with the current drive seal?
It’s possible for a short time (1-2 days), but it’s not worth the risk. Oil leakage from the gearbox leads to oil starvation, which can lead to box jamming or bearing failure. If oil gets on the brake pads, it may cause complete loss of brakes.
Which oil seal is better to choose: original or analogue?
Original oil seal (38340-4M000) is the most reliable option, but it is more expensive. Among analogues, brands that have proven themselves well are:
- Corteco (article
20017004) - Elring (article
441.530) - SKF (article
VKJA 6539)
Cheap oil seals of unknown brands often harden in the cold or quickly wear out.
Is it necessary to change the gearbox oil after replacing the oil seal?
If the oil is drained completely - necessarily. If only partially (for example, when replacing the oil seal without removing the pan), you can add fresh oil to the level. However, keep in mind that sediment remains in the gearbox, so a complete replacement is preferable.
What should I do if, after replacing the oil seal, a crunching sound occurs when turning?
Most likely it was damaged during dismantling/installation CV boot or dirt has gotten into the hinge. Required:
- Remove the drive and inspect the boot for cracks.
- If the boot is damaged, replace it and add new grease to the CV joint.
- Check to see if the shaft is bent - sometimes it gets deformed if removed incorrectly.
A crunching noise indicates wear on the CV joint, and if it is not corrected, the joint will soon fail.
Is it possible to replace the drive seal without removing the box?
Yes, on Nissan Almera Classic it's possible. It is enough to remove the drive shaft as described in the instructions above. There is no need to remove the gearbox. However, if the oil seal is “stuck” and cannot be pulled out, you may need a special puller or service assistance.