Thresholds Nissan Almera Classic (especially for models 2006–2012) - one of the most vulnerable parts of the body. Corrosion, mechanical damage after an accident, or simply time takes its toll, and sooner or later the owner is faced with the question of whether to restore old thresholds or install new ones. In this article we will analyze all stages of replacement — from diagnostics to final anti-corrosion treatment, taking into account the specifics Almera Classic (including restyled versions).
It is important to understand that replacing thresholds is not only an aesthetic procedure. Rusted or deformed elements worsen body rigidity, which may affect safety in the event of an accident. In addition, ignoring the problem leads to the spread of corrosion to the side members and the bottom, and this is already major overhaul with complete disassembly of the interior and cost 2–3 times higher. We have collected the experience of car repair shops and owners who performed the replacement themselves, so that you can avoid common mistakes.
Signs of threshold wear: when replacement is required
The first signals of problems with thresholds on Almera Classic often go undetected until corrosion becomes obvious. Here are the key ones symptoms, which are worth paying attention to:
- 🔍 External traces of rust — even small “saffron milk caps” under the paint or at the joints with the wheel arches. On Almera Classic Most often, corrosion begins on the inside of the threshold, so inspection only from the outside is not sufficient.
- 🚗 Creaks and knocks when driving over uneven surfaces, this is a sign that the metal has lost its rigidity or that the noise and vibration insulation has peeled off.
- 🔧 Deformations after impacts - even minor accidents can damage the sills, especially if they have already been weakened by rust.
- 💦 Damp interior — if water appears under the passengers’ feet after rain or washing, this may indicate holes in the sills.
On Nissan Almera Classic (especially in the back B10) critical areas are:
- 🔹 Place where the threshold is attached to the side member (on the driver and front passenger side).
- 🔹 Threshold angles at the front and rear wheel arches.
- 🔹 Areas under plastic overlays (if any).
⚠️ Attention: If, when you press the threshold with your finger, a dent remains or the metal bends, this is a direct signal for replacement. On Almera Classic The metal thickness of the thresholds is only 0.8–1 mm, and with corrosion it decreases by 2–3 times.
- Less than a year
- 1–3 years
- More than 3 years
- No problems yet
Selection of spare parts: original vs. analogues
Not only the appearance, but also durability of repair. There are three main options on the market:
| Threshold type | Benefits | Disadvantages | Average price (per 1 piece) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Original (Nissan) | Perfect fit, factory quality metal, full compatibility with fasteners. | High cost, long delivery times (especially for older models). | 8 000–12 000 ₽ |
| Analogs (Dongfeng, Febi, JS Asakashi) | Affordable price, wide range, often better than the original in terms of metal thickness. | May require modification (adjustment) during installation. | 3 500–6 000 ₽ |
| Universal (no brand) | Minimum cost, suitable for temporary repairs. | Poor fit, thin metal, short service life. | 1 500–3 000 ₽ |
For Almera Classic the optimal choice is considered to be thresholds from JS Asakashi (article JS-NIS-001 for left and JS-NIS-002 for right) or Febi (series 36630). They have reinforced structure (metal thickness 1.2 mm) and covered with factory primer. Original thresholds from Nissan (article 62600-4M000 for left and 62601-4M000 for the right one) it is advisable to buy only with a complete restoration of the body.
⚠️ Attention: When purchasing analogues, be sure to check availability technological holes for fastening to the spar and drainage channels. Cheap thresholds often lack them, which leads to moisture accumulation and repeated corrosion.
Also pay attention to the package:
- 📦 The set must include threshold amplifiers (unless they come separately).
- 🔧 Fastening elements (bolts, nuts) usually have to be purchased separately.
- 🎨 The primer and sealant included is a big plus (saves time on preparation).
Required tools and materials
To replace thresholds with Almera Classic will be required specialized tool. Here's the full list:
Grinder with cutting wheel (125 mm)|Welding machine (semi-automatic or inverter)|Riveter and pliers|Set of metal drills (3–10 mm)|Grinder with flap wheel|Anti-corrosion compound (for example, Dinitrol 4941)|Primer Body 960 and body color paint|Hammer and straightening tool set|Protective mask and gloves
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Pay special attention to the choice welding machine. For Almera Classic suitable:
- 🔥 Semi-automatic (MIG/MAG) — optimal for thin metal (recommended gas: a mixture of argon and CO₂ in a ratio of 80/20).
- ⚡ Inverter (manual arc welding) - a budget option, but requires experience so as not to burn through the metal.
Also prepare consumables:
- 🔹 Welding wire
ER70S-6(diameter 0.8 mm). - 🔹 Electrodes
ANO-21orMP-3(if you are using an inverter). - 🔹 Seam sealant (for example, 3M 08597).
- 🔹 Joint sealant for internal treatment (for example, Tectyl ML).
⚠️ Attention: Do not use for cutting thresholds plasma cutter — it overheats the metal, which leads to deformation of the body. Grinder with a thin cutting wheel (1.0–1.6 mm) gives a cleaner cut.
Before starting work, remove the terminals from the battery and turn off the power to the on-board network. On Almera Classic The fuse box is located under the hood on the left - it is also better to insulate it to avoid short circuits during welding.
Step-by-step instructions for replacing thresholds
The process of replacing thresholds with Nissan Almera Classic can be divided into 5 key stages. Let's look at each in detail.
1. Dismantling old thresholds
Start with complete disassembly of the interior:
- 🔧 Remove the front seats (4 bolts each).
- 🔧 Remove carpeting and noise vibration insulation.
- 🔧 Disconnect the wiring harnesses running under the thresholds (on Almera Classic These are the wires for the rear speakers and the ABS sensor).
Next, start cutting:
- Mark the cutting lines with a marker, stepping back 2–3 cm from the junction of the threshold with the body.
- Using a grinder, carefully cut through the metal along the markings. Start with rear sill (there is less risk of damaging the spar).
- Remove the remains of the threshold by prying them up with a pry bar.
How to avoid damage to the spar?
When cutting the threshold at Almera Classic the spar is located 10–15 cm from the edge of the threshold. To avoid offending him:
1. Use a thin cutting wheel (1.0mm).
2. Cut at an angle of 10–15° away from you so that sparks fly away from the spar.
3. Periodically cool the metal with water (but do not pour it on hot areas - this will lead to microcracks).
2. Preparing the body for installation of new thresholds
After dismantling:
- Clean the joints grinder to pure metal.
- Check the side members for corrosion. If there is rust, treat it rust converter (For example,
Tsinkar). - Apply to bare areas primer for metal (For example, Body 960).
At this stage also check body geometry. On Almera Classic the distance between the side members in the area of the thresholds should be 1 320 ± 5 mm. If the geometry is broken, straightening will be required.
3. Trying on and adjusting new thresholds
Before welding:
- 🔹 Attach the new threshold to the installation site and check the gaps. On Almera Classic permissible gap between the threshold and the body - no more
2 mm. - 🔹 If necessary, adjust the threshold hammer and anvil (do not use a grinder for trimming - this will weaken the structure).
- 🔹 Drill technological holes for rivets (if they were not made at the factory).
⚠️ Attention: On restyled Almera Classic (2010–2012) thresholds have additional projection for attaching plastic covers. If you are installing pre-Restyle thresholds, this protrusion will have to be modified.
4. Welding and fastening
Start with potholders (short seams every 10–15 cm), then weld the joints completely. Features of welding on Almera Classic:
- 🔥 Use spot welding for fastening to the spar (step 3–4 cm).
- 🔥 Make seams at the joints with arches and pillars solid, but no more than 2–3 cm long to avoid deformation.
- 🔥 After welding, immediately treat the seams seam sealant.
To strengthen the structure:
- 🔹 Install threshold amplifiers (they come included or can be purchased separately).
- 🔹 Attach the sills to the body rivets (diameter 4.8 mm) in places where welding is not possible.
5. Anti-corrosion treatment and painting
The final stage is corrosion protection:
- Treat the inner surface of the threshold anticorrosive (For example,
Dinitrol 4941orTectyl ML). - Apply soil on seams and cleaned areas.
- Paint the sills in the body color (paint code for Almera Classic indicated on the plate under the hood).
- Install noise and vibration insulation (For example, StP Gold).
On Almera Classic after replacing the thresholds, be sure to check the operation of the doors - if the body has “gone”, you may need to adjust the hinges or straighten the pillars.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes when replacing thresholds with Almera Classic. Here are the most common:
- ❌ Incomplete removal of rust — if you leave even small pockets of corrosion under the new threshold, the process will resume in 1–2 years.
- ❌ Using thick welding wire (more than 1 mm) - leads to metal burns and weakening of the structure.
- ❌ No drainage holes — without them, moisture will accumulate inside the threshold.
- ❌ Painting without primer — the paint will peel off quickly, especially in welding areas.
- ❌ Ignoring body geometry - even a slight displacement of the side members will lead to problems with the suspension and steering.
To avoid these errors:
- 🔹 Use magnetic square to check the right angles of the body.
- 🔹 After welding, be sure to treat the seams zinc spray (For example, Zinc Rich Primer).
- 🔹 Apply before painting epoxy primer - it protects against corrosion better than acrylic.
Cost of work in a car service vs. do-it-yourself repair
Threshold replacement price Nissan Almera Classic depends on the scope of work and region. Average prices in car services:
| Type of work | Cost (for 1 threshold) | Lead time |
|---|---|---|
| Replacing the threshold without welding (with rivets) | 5 000–8 000 ₽ | 4–6 hours |
| Replacement with welding (without painting) | 8 000–12 000 ₽ | 6–8 hours |
| Full complex (replacement + painting + anticorrosive) | 12 000–18 000 ₽ | 1–2 days |
| Spar repair (if necessary) | from 20,000 ₽ | 2–3 days |
When making repairs yourself, the main costs will be:
- 💰 Spare parts — 7,000–15,000 ₽ (for both thresholds).
- 💰 Materials (paint, primer, anticorrosive) - 3,000–5,000 ₽.
- 💰 Tool — if you don’t have one, renting a welding machine will cost 1,500–2,500 ₽/day.
Total self-replacement costs 15 000–25 000 ₽ (for both thresholds), which is 1.5–2 times cheaper than a car service. However, without welding experience, the risk of mistakes is high - it is better to entrust the work to professionals if:
- 🔹 The body has serious deformities after an accident.
- 🔹 Required replacement of spar sections.
- 🔹 You are not sure about the quality of your welding.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions about replacing thresholds on Almera Classic
Is it possible to replace thresholds without welding?
Yes, but this temporary solution. The thresholds are attached with rivets and sealant, but this design is less durable and does not restore the rigidity of the body. Suitable only for "cosmetic" repairs or if welding is not possible (for example, due to lack of equipment).
How long do the new thresholds on the Almera Classic last?
With proper installation and anti-corrosion treatment, original or high-quality analogues serve 8–12 years. Cheap universal thresholds begin to rust after 2–3 years. The service life also depends on operating conditions: in regions with salty roads in winter, corrosion develops faster.
Do I need to remove the glass when replacing thresholds?
No, it is not necessary to remove the glass. However It is recommended to remove the door seals and adjust the doors after replacing the sills, since the body may have shifted slightly. If the geometry is severely distorted, adjustment of the hinges may be required.
Is it possible to drive with rusty sills?
Technically yes, but this dangerous. Rusted sills lose up to 70% of their strength, which reduces protection in a side impact. In addition, corrosion spreads to the side members and the bottom, which leads to complete loss of body rigidity and the risk of “collapsing” in an accident.
Which anticorrosive agent is best for Almera Classic thresholds?
Optimal options:
- 🔹 Dinitrol 4941 — for internal processing (does not dry out, protects from moisture).
- 🔹 Tectyl ML — for the outer surface (creates an elastic film).
- 🔹 Noxudol 700 — for difficult cases (penetrates into microcracks).
Apply anticorrosive to 2–3 layers, paying special attention to joints and welds.