Nissan Almera Classic (also known as Nissan Almera B10 or Samsung SM3 in some markets) is a reliable sedan with a simple design, but even its brake pads require regular replacement. On average front pads on this car they serve 30–50 thousand km, but it all depends on driving style, quality of spare parts and operating conditions. If you notice squeaking when braking, increased pedal travel, or vibrations, it's time to act.

Replacing pads yourself Almera Classic does not require professional skills, but there are nuances: from the correct selection of spare parts to mandatory broaching caliper guides and checking brake hoses. This article contains detailed instructions with photos, a list of tools, recommendations for choosing pads and typical mistakes that beginners make. If you have never worked with the brake system, start by studying the theory so as not to damage brake disc or caliper piston.

Signs of brake pad wear on a Nissan Almera Classic

The first signal about the need for replacement is creaking or whistling when braking. On the blocks Almera Classic often installed wear indicators (metal plates) that begin to cling to the disc when the friction material is critically abraded. However, there are other symptoms:

  • 🔴 Increased brake pedal travel - requires more effort to stop.
  • 🔴 Vibration or beat on the steering wheel when braking (may indicate disc deformation).
  • 🔴 Black dust on wheels - a sign of active wear of the pads.
  • 🔴 Chips or cracks on the brake disc (visible during visual inspection).

On Nissan Almera Classic with engines 1.4 And 1.6 (including versions with automatic transmission) the front pads wear out faster than the rear ones due to greater load. The critical thickness of the friction layer is 2–3 mm. If less, urgent replacement is required, otherwise the metal base of the pad will begin to scratch the disc, which will lead to its replacement.

⚠️ Attention: If, after replacing the pads, the brake pedal becomes “soft” or falls out, immediately check the brake fluid level and the tightness of the system. This may indicate jammed caliper piston or hose damage.
📊 How often do you check your brake pads?
  • Every 10 thousand km
  • Only when a squeak appears
  • Once a year
  • Never checked

Which pads to choose for Nissan Almera Classic (B10)

Original pads from Nissan have an article number 40520-9M000 (for the front axle), but their price is often too high. Analogues from trusted brands are no worse, and sometimes even better, in terms of the composition of the friction material. Here is a list of recommended options:

Brand Article Features Average price (per set)
Nissan (original) 40520-9M000 Optimal balance of wear and braking properties 2 500–3 200 ₽
Bosch 0 986 494 219 Low noise level, suitable for aggressive riding 1 800–2 300 ₽
TRW GDB1446 Reinforced composition, long service life 2 000–2 600 ₽
Ferodo FDB4306 Soft pads, spare discs 1 600–2 100 ₽

When choosing, pay attention to friction material composition:

  • 🔹 Semi-metallic - durable, but noisy and aggressive to disks.
  • 🔹 Ceramic — quiet and generate little dust, but more expensive and less effective at low temperatures.
  • 🔹 Organic — soft, but wear out quickly (suitable for quiet driving).

For Almera Classic with mileage over 100 thousand km we recommend ceramic or semi-metallic pads - They handle heat better. If the car is used in the city, you can choose Ferodo or Bosch with low noise level.

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Before purchasing pads, check the condition of the brake discs. If their thickness is less than 18 mm (the nominal value for Almera Classic is 20 mm), the disks also need to be replaced. Measure the thickness with a caliper at 3-4 points around the circumference.

Tools and materials for replacing pads

To work you will need:

  • 🔧 Jack And supports (or lift).
  • 🔧 Balloon wrench for removing wheels.
  • 🔧 Socket heads at 12, 14 and 17 mm.
  • 🔧 open-end wrench by 12 mm for the caliper guides.
  • 🔧 Flat blade screwdriver (for pressing the pads).
  • 🔧 Caliper Lubricant (For example, TRW PFG110 or Slipkote 220-R DBC).
  • 🔧 DOT-4 brake fluid (in case of pumping).
  • 🔧 Hammer (for gentle tapping on the caliper).

Also prepare:

  • 🧴 Brake cleaner (For example, Hi-Gear HG5335).
  • 🧤 Gloves (Brake dust is harmful to the skin).
  • 📏 Vernier caliper (to measure the thickness of the disks).
⚠️ Attention: Never use WD-40 or other all-purpose lubricants on the caliper guides! They cannot withstand high temperatures and can lead to piston jamming. Only specialized lubricants based on copper or ceramics.

Loosen the wheel bolts (do not remove!)

Raise the car on a jack and install supports

Remove the wheel and clean the caliper from dirt

Prepare new pads and tools

Check the brake fluid level (pump out excess if necessary) -->

Step-by-step instructions for replacing front pads

Before starting work turn off the engine and engage first gear (or P for automatic transmission). If the brake fluid level in the reservoir is at its maximum, pump out some of it with a syringe - when the caliper piston is pressed in, the fluid may overflow.

Step 1: Removing the Wheel and Caliper

1. Loosen the wheel bolts while the vehicle is on the ground.

2. Raise the machine with a jack and install a support (for example, "goat" or a wooden block under the threshold).

3. Remove the wheel and clean the caliper from dirt with a wire brush.

4. Unscrew the two bolts securing the caliper to the bracket (usually on 14 mm).

Step 2: Removing Old Pads

1. Carefully pry the caliper with a screwdriver and remove it from the disc (do not disconnect the brake hose!).

2. Hang the caliper on a wire or rope to the strut spring - do not let it hang on the hose!

3. Remove the old pads and inspect them for even wear. If one pad is worn more than the other, this is a sign jammed guide.

Step 3: Install New Pads

1. Clean the pad seats in the caliper bracket.

2. Apply a thin layer of lubricant to back side of the pads (where they come into contact with the caliper).

3. Install new pads, making sure they are aligned tight and without distortion.

4. Press the caliper piston back using sliding pliers or a special tool (for example, Lisle 25800). Do not press on the piston with a screwdriver - this will damage the boot!

Step 4: Assembly and Testing

1. Install the caliper in place and tighten the mounting bolts (tightening torque - 30–35 Nm).

2. Put on the wheel and lower the car.

3. Press the brake pedal several times until the pads press against the disc.

4. Check the brake fluid level and add if necessary.

What should I do if the caliper piston does not press in?

If the piston cannot be pushed in by hand, it may be rusty or there is excess pressure in the system. Try:

1. Unscrew the cap of the brake fluid reservoir (to relieve pressure).

2. Use a special tool with a rotary motion (for calipers with a threaded piston, as on some versions of Almera Classic).

3. If the piston still does not move, the caliper requires repair or replacement.

Common mistakes when replacing pads and how to avoid them

Even experienced car owners sometimes make mistakes that lead to squeaking brakes, uneven wear or even brake system failure. Here are the most common:

  • ❌ Unlubricated guides - lead to caliper wedging and accelerated pad wear.
  • ❌ Overtightened caliper bolts - can deform the bracket or break the thread.
  • ❌ Using the wrong lubricant - WD-40 or lithol dissolves at high temperatures.
  • ❌ Forgot to press in the caliper piston — the new pads will not fit into place.
  • ❌ Didn't check the brake hoses - Cracks or kinks can lead to brake failure.

Another common problem is new pads squeak. It may occur due to:

  • 🔊 Incorrect installation (the pads touch the caliper bracket).
  • 🔊 Poor quality friction material (especially with cheap analogues).
  • 🔊 Lack of anti-squeak plates (they need to be moved from the old pads or bought new ones).
⚠️ Attention: After replacing the pads, avoid sudden braking for the first 200–300 km - the new pads should get used to to the disks. At this time, the braking distance may be slightly longer.
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Always replace pads in pairs on the same axle (left and right wheel at the same time), even if one of them looks fine. This ensures even braking and prevents the vehicle from pulling to the side.

When to change brake discs on Almera Classic

Brake discs on Nissan Almera Classic The pads last longer, but they also require replacement. Look out for the following signs:

  • 🔄 Disc thickness less than 18 mm (nominal - 20 mm).
  • 🔄 Deep grooves or chips on the work surface.
  • 🔄 Steering wheel beating when braking (the disc “steered” due to overheating).
  • 🔄 blue tint on the disk - a sign of critical overheating.

If the disks are still in good condition, but they have shallow grooves from old pads, they can be turned on a lathe. However, after grooving, the thickness of the disc must remain at least 19 mm. For Almera Classic original discs have an article number 40526-9M000 (front axle). Good analogues:

  • 🔹 Bosch 0 986 479 767 (ventilated).
  • 🔹 TRW DF4530 (reinforced).
  • 🔹 Zimmermann 100.3478.20 (high quality metal).

When replacing discs, be sure to change the pads as well - the old ones will not fully adhere to the new surface. Also check step wear (when the inner part of the disc is thinner than the outer) - this is a sign of a stuck caliper.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about replacing pads on Nissan Almera Classic

Is it possible to drive if the brake pads squeak?

A short-term squeaking noise during light braking can be caused by sand or moisture. But if the squeak is constant and loud, this is a sign critical pad wear or disk damage. You can drive, but the longer you wait to replace it, the higher the risk of damaging the disk, which will cost more.

Do I need to bleed the brakes after replacing the pads?

Bleeding the brakes is only required if you disconnected the brake hose or changed the caliper. When replacing pads normally, bleeding is not necessary, but check the fluid level in the reservoir - it may rise when the piston is pressed in.

What is the tightening torque for the caliper bolts?

The bolts securing the caliper to the bracket are tightened with a torque 30–35 Nm. Bolts securing the bracket to the hub - 80–100 Nm. Use a torque wrench to avoid stripping the threads.

Can I use pads from other Nissan models?

No, there must be pads strictly for Almera Classic (B10). For example, pads from Nissan Note or Micra will not fit due to different shapes and sizes. Always check the catalog for VIN or part numbers.

What to do if after replacing the pads the car pulls to the side?

This may be caused by:

  • 🔧 Uneven tightening of caliper bolts.
  • 🔧 Pollution or corrosion of guides.
  • 🔧 Varying degrees of disc wear on the left and right wheels.

Check caliper piston stroke (they should move equally easily) and disc thickness caliper.