Replacing front brake pads with Nissan Almera Classic - a task that every owner of this car faces sooner or later. Despite the simplicity of the brake system design, the process requires attention to detail, from choosing the right parts to following installation techniques. In this article we will go through everything step by step - from wear diagnostics to the final brake check, taking into account the specifics of the model B10 (2006–2012).

Feature Almera Classic — use of brake mechanisms from Renault (floating calipers with one piston), which simplifies repairs, but imposes restrictions on the choice of analogues. For example, pads from Nissan Note or Micra K12 may fit in size, but differ in the composition of the friction material. We will tell you how not to make a mistake with your purchase and avoid squeaks after replacement.

If you have never worked with the brake system, do not be alarmed: with the right approach, the procedure will take no more than 1–1.5 hours. The main thing is not to skimp on tools and follow our recommendations for mandatory brake bleeding after replacement (yes, this even applies to the front pads!).

When to change front pads Nissan Almera Classic: 5 signs of wear

The manufacturer recommends checking the thickness of the pads every 15–20 thousand km, but actual service life depends on driving style and quality of spare parts. For example, original pads Nissan 40520-BM000 in urban mode they last up to 40–50 thousand km, and cheap analogues last half as long. Here are the key signs that it's time to act:

  • 🔊 Creaking or whistling when braking - the first signal about critical wear of the friction layer. On Almera Classic Usually the outer pads (closer to the caliper) creak.
  • 📏 Friction layer thickness less than 2–3 mm. You can check through the caliper inspection window or by removing the wheel.
  • 🚗 Increased brake pedal travel or its vibration is a sign of uneven wear of the pads or deformation of the discs.
  • 💨 Black dust on rims - the norm for ceramic pads, but if it has become significantly larger, this indicates accelerated wear.
  • 🔴 ABS lamp on dashboard. On Almera Classic ABS sensors are built into the hubs, but faulty pads can indirectly affect their operation.

Pay special attention uneven wear: If one pad wears out faster than the other, this is a signal of a stuck caliper or worn guides. In this case, additional repairs will be required.

⚠️ Attention: On Nissan Almera Classic with engines 1.5 (HR15DE) And 1.6 (HR16DE) front brake discs are thinner than on versions with a motor 1.8 (QG18DE). Check the dimensions before purchasing pads!

Which pads to choose: original vs analogues for Almera Classic

Original pads from Nissan (40520-BM000 or 40520-4M000) are expensive (from 3,000 ₽ per set), but guarantee the absence of squeaks and a long service life. However, there are worthy analogues on the market that save up to 50% of the budget. The table below shows proven options for Almera Classic B10:

Brand Article Material type Average price (set) Features
Nissan (original) 40520-BM000 Semi-metallic 3 000–3 500 ₽ No squeaks, high resource
Brembo P 24 025 Ceramics 2 200–2 500 ₽ Soft braking, little dust
Ferodo FDB1486 Low metal 1 800–2 000 ₽ Good for aggressive riding
TRW GDB1446 Semi-metallic 2 000–2 300 ₽ Optimal price/quality balance
Bosch 0 986 494 219 Ceramics 2 400–2 700 ₽ Quiet, but needs some running-in

When choosing, pay attention to friction material composition:

  • 🔥 Semi-metallic pads (Nissan, TRW) are durable, but the discs are noisier and wear out more.
  • ❄️ Ceramic (Brembo, Bosch) are quieter and cleaner, but may slow down worse in the cold.
  • ⚡ Low metal (Ferodo) — the golden mean for city driving.

A critical nuance: on Almera Classic with ABS, the sensors are attached to the hub, and not to the caliper. This means that pads with integrated wear sensors (as on European models) will not work here!

📊 Which pads do you prefer to install on your car?
  • Original (expensive, but reliable)
  • Premium analogues (Brembo, TRW)
  • Budget analogues (Ferodo, Bosch)
  • I don't know what to choose

Tools and preparation: what you need for replacement

You don't need any specialized equipment for the job, but you can't do without some tools. Here's the full list:

  • 🔧 Balloon wrench (usually 19 or 21).
  • 🔩 Socket heads at 12, 14 and 17 mm (for caliper and guides).
  • 🔨 Hammer And flat blade screwdriver (for spreading the pads).
  • 🛠️ Caliper puller or a clamp (to recess the piston).
  • 🧴 WD-40 or brake cleaning fluid (Brembo Cleaner).
  • 🩹 Medical syringe (for pumping out brake fluid).
  • 📦 New pads, guide lubricant (Slipkote 220-R) and copper paste for the back of the pads.

Before starting work:

  1. Park your car on flat surface and secure the rear wheels with chocks.
  2. Loosen the front wheel bolts (but do not remove them completely!).
  3. Open the hood and pump out some of the brake fluid from the tank (otherwise, when the piston is retracted, it will flow over the edge).
  4. Raise the car on a jack and remove the wheel. Use wheel chocks for safety.

Loosen the wheel bolts on the ground|Pump out the brake fluid from the reservoir|Raise the car on a jack and install stops|Clean the caliper and guides from dirt|Check the condition of the brake hose-->

⚠️ Attention: Never press the brake pedal with the caliper removed - the piston may fly out of the cylinder and repairs will be required!

Step-by-step instructions: how to remove old pads and install new ones

The replacement algorithm is the same for the left and right wheels, but it’s better to start with passenger side — this makes it easier to control the level of brake fluid in the reservoir. Follow the instructions:

  1. Remove the caliper:
    • Unscrew the two bolts securing the caliper to the bracket (usually 14 mm).
    • Carefully pry up the caliper with a screwdriver and remove it without disconnecting the brake hose!
    • Hang the caliper on a wire or rope to the strut spring - it should not hang on the hose.
  2. Remove old pads:
    • Remove the spring clips (if equipped) and pull the pads out of the bracket.
    • Clean the bracket with a wire brush to remove rust and dirt.
  3. Prepare new pads:
    • Apply thin layer of copper paste on the back of the pads (where they contact the caliper).
    • Make sure that the friction material does not touch the paste!
  4. Press down the caliper piston:
    • Use a clamp or puller to slowly press the piston back into the cylinder.
    • If the piston does not recess, check whether you have unscrewed the cap of the brake fluid reservoir.
  5. Install new pads:
    • Insert the pads into the bracket, starting from the inside (piston side).
    • Make sure they move freely in the grooves.
  6. Assemble the support:
    • Place the caliper in place and tighten the mounting bolts (tightening torque - 30–35 Nm).
    • Put the wheel on and lower the car.

After replacement on both wheels press the brake pedal several timesso that the pistons are straightened and the pads are pressed against the discs. For the first 100–200 km, avoid sharp braking - the pads need to be broken in.

💡

If the caliper piston does not recess, try turning it clockwise (some models use a threaded mechanism). On Almera Classic This is not required, but useful to know for other cars.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced car owners sometimes make mistakes when replacing pads. Here are the most common ones and ways to prevent them:

  • 🔧 Jammed caliper guides:

    If you don't lubricate the guides special lubricant (not with ordinary lithol!), the caliper will jam and the pads will wear unevenly. Use Slipkote 220-R or Molykote G-4500.

  • 💦 Contact of lubricant with friction material:

    If even a drop of oil gets on the working surface of the pads or disc, braking efficiency will drop by 2-3 times. Clean parts only special cleaner (Brembo Cleaner).

  • 🔩 Incorrect bolt torque:

    Overtightened caliper bolts can deform the caliper, while undertightened caliper bolts can lead to vibrations. Use a torque wrench (torque - 30–35 Nm).

  • 🚗 Forgot to check the brake discs:

    If the disc thickness is less 18 mm (for Almera Classic), it needs to be replaced. Measure with a micrometer or contact a service station.

⚠️ Attention: After replacing the pads be sure to check the brake fluid level! If the pistons are recessed deeply, there may not be enough fluid in the tank, and air will enter the system. Top up only DOT-4 (original - Nissan 999MP-AM000P).
What to do if the brakes squeak after replacing the pads?

Creaking in the first 100–200 km is normal (breaking in of the pads). If the sound does not disappear:

1. Check to see if any lubricant has come into contact with the friction material.

2. Make sure the pads are installed with the correct side up (some models have "L" and "R" marks).

3. Use anti-squeak plates (if they were not included in the kit, buy them separately, for example, Febi 15636).

4. If the squeaking does not stop, the pads may be defective (this is especially common with cheap analogues).

Do I need to bleed the brakes after replacing the pads?

On Nissan Almera Classic bleeding the brakes after replacement front pads It is not always required, but there are cases when it is required:

  • ✅ If you have disconnected the brake hose from the caliper.
  • ✅ If the brake fluid level has dropped below the minimum (air is visible in the tank).
  • ✅ If the brake pedal becomes soft after replacement.

For pumping you will need an assistant and special key for fittings (usually 8 or 10 mm). Algorithm:

  1. Place on the bleeder fitting transparent hose, lower the other end into a bottle of brake fluid.
  2. Have an assistant press the brake pedal 3-4 times and hold it down.
  3. Unscrew the fitting 1/2 turn - liquid with air bubbles will come out into the bottle.
  4. Tighten the fitting and repeat the process until no more bubbles appear in the hose.

Bleed the brakes in the following order: right rear → left rear → right front → left front. After bleeding, add fluid to the level MAX.

💡

If you have not disconnected the brake hose or allowed the fluid level to drop below the minimum level, bleeding is not required. It is enough to press the brake pedal several times to straighten the pistons.

Frequently asked questions about replacing brake pads Nissan Almera Classic

Is it possible to change the pads on only one wheel?

No! Pads are always changed in pairs on the same axis (i.e. on both front wheels at the same time). Otherwise, the braking force will be distributed unevenly, which will lead to the car pulling to the side when braking.

How often should you check your brake pads?

The manufacturer recommends inspection every 15,000 km, but in the realities of Russian roads it is better to check every 10,000 km. This is especially important for cars operated in the city with frequent braking.

What happens if you don't change the pads on time?

If the friction material wears down to metal, you risk:

  • Damage brake discs (they will have to be sharpened or replaced).
  • Enlarge braking distance 1.5–2 times.
  • provoke caliper jamming due to overheating.

Can I use pads from other Nissan models?

Yes, but with reservations:

  • From Nissan Note (E11) - fit in size, but may differ in composition.
  • From Micra K12 - only if the article matches 40520-BM000.
  • From Renault Logan/Sandero — don't fit, despite the similar platform.

Always check the catalogs Nissan or TECDOC.

Do the backs of new pads need to be lubricated?

Yes, but only special high temperature lubricant (For example, Permatex 24110 or LIQUI MOLY Bremsen-Anti-Quietsch-Paste). This prevents squeaks and corrosion. Do not use graphite grease or lithol!