Owners Nissan Almera G15 generations often encounter a characteristic clicking sound when turning, which indicates critical wear of the outer constant velocity joint. This part transmits torque from the gearbox to the wheel, working under conditions of constant loads and temperature changes, so its resource is limited. Ignoring the symptom can lead to jamming of the mechanism and complete loss of control of the car at high speed.
The replacement process requires specific tools and an understanding of the suspension structure of a front-wheel drive vehicle. Many car owners consider this operation too complicated, but if you have a garage with a pit and a set of keys, the repair is quite possible to do yourself. The main thing is to follow the sequence of actions and use high-quality consumables so as not to redo the work in a month.
Diagnosis of faults and selection of suitable spare parts
Before you start disassembling the suspension, you need to make sure that the problem lies precisely in the external CV joint, not in the wheel bearing or inner joint. A characteristic crunch or clicking sound that intensifies when the steering wheel is turned all the way and when driving at low speed is a sure sign of grenade wear. If the noise appears when driving in a straight line and disappears when the gear is turned off, most likely the problem is in the bearing.
When selecting a new part for Nissan Almera G15 It is important to understand that there are different drive options. Some manufacturers offer pre-assembled axle shafts, while others only sell the joint itself with a boot kit. For Nissan Almera the original spare part number usually begins with the prefix 4320, however, analogues from trusted brands often exceed the standard ones in terms of service life.
- 🔧 SNR And GKN - one of the best manufacturers, often supplying products to the assembly line.
- 🔧 Kaasan And SPZ - budget options that require careful checking of the geometry.
- 🔧 Tension The boot must be perfect, otherwise dirt will quickly destroy the new mechanism.
Pay attention to the condition of the inner CV joint while you have the drive disassembled. If there is play on it or the boot is damaged, it makes sense to replace both elements at once, so as not to have to return to this work again. Skimping on the internal joint may result in more serious transmission failures in the future.
⚠️ Attention: Never buy cheap boots without clamps or with thin rubber. They burst after a couple of thousand kilometers, and the lubricant leaks out, turning the new CV joint into scrap metal.
Necessary tools and workplace preparation
For a successful replacement, you will need a full set of auto mechanic tools, including a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to the correct torque. Lack of specialized equipment, such as a snap ring puller or a joint press tool, will greatly complicate the process and may result in damaged parts.
You will definitely need: a set of socket heads (from 10 to 32 mm), an extension, a wrench, a pry bar and a hammer. Pay special attention to the head for unscrewing the hub nut, as it is tightened with enormous force. If you don't have air tools, you'll have to stock up on "extensions" for the lever or use a crowbar to create the necessary arm.
- 🔩 Head for 30 or 32 mm for the hub nut (often requires hammering).
- 🔩 Ball joint remover or a mounting spade for detaching the arms.
- 🔩 Copper grease for processing threaded connections and splines.
It is better to carry out the work on a pit or a lift, since access to the lower part of the suspension is limited. Raise the car on a jack, be sure to place it on a secure stand and remove the wheel. Do not rely solely on the hydraulics of the jack when under the car - it is deadly.
⚠️ Attention: The hub nut is on Nissan Almera G15 is tightened with a torque of about 200 Nm. Trying to unscrew it by weight may result in the vehicle falling or injury.
- Pneumatic impact wrench
- Impact drill
- Heavy knob
- I use the service
Removing the drive shaft and old parts
We begin disassembly by unscrewing the wheel bolts and removing the wheel to gain free access to the assembly. Next, you need to loosen the hub nut while the car is still on its wheels, since the hub will rotate. After this, lift the machine, secure it and completely unscrew the nut.
The next step is to disconnect the arms and ball joints. You will need to unscrew the bolt securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle. Often this bolt will stick, so use penetrating lubricant and a hammer to gently tap out the pin. Do not use the pry bar as a lever to remove the pin to avoid damaging the rubber ball boot.
☑️ Dismantling the drive
Once the steering knuckle is freed, the drive shaft can be removed from the hub. To do this, you will need to carefully knock it out with a hammer through the spacer so as not to damage the splines. Then disconnect the inner CV joint from the transmission by prying it up with a pry bar. Be careful: transmission oil may spill out of the differential when removed, so place a container in advance.
- 🚫 Don't hit with a hammer straight along the shaft splines, use a wooden spacer.
- 🚫 Don't pull the drive with your hands on the boot, this will damage its integrity.
- 🚫 Be careful with oil: Drain it into a clean container if you plan to reuse it.
Now you have a free drive shaft that can be taken to the workbench to replace the CV joint. Clean the shaft from dirt and old grease, carefully inspecting the splines for wear or chips. If the splines are damaged, replacing the CV joint does not make sense, since the new mechanism will quickly fail.
How to remove the retaining ring?
Use thin pliers or a special puller to squeeze the ring and pull it out of the groove on the shaft. Be careful, the ring may fly off and get lost.
Replacing the outer constant velocity joint
On a workbench, the replacement process is much more convenient and faster. First, remove the old boot and clean the hinge housing from any remaining grease. If you are replacing just the grenade and not the entire axle shaft, you will have to remove the retaining ring that holds the CV joint to the shaft. This ring often gets stuck, so you need to carefully pry it off and remove it.
To remove the old CV joint from the shaft, use a special puller or hammer, striking the inner ring through the spacer. It is important to hit exactly the inner ring so as not to damage the separator and the housing. The old mechanism can be tight, so don't be afraid to apply force, but do it evenly so as not to bend the shaft.
Install the new boot onto the shaft and secure its lower clamp. Then slide the new CV joint onto the shaft, aligning the splines. To press in, use a mandrel or an old CV joint housing, striking evenly around the perimeter with a hammer. The CV joint should fit tightly until the locking ring stops.
- 🛠️ Press A new hinge is needed until the characteristic click of the retaining ring is heard.
- 🛠️ Check the play: After installation, the splines should not have any axial movement.
- 🛠️ Fill in CV joint cavity with new grease included in the kit (usually 100-150 grams).
After filling with lubricant, slide the boot onto the joint body and secure the upper clamp. Make sure the boot is not twisted and has even folds. Before tightening the clamps, release excess air from the boot by slightly lifting its edge with a screwdriver to avoid tearing during operation.
Correct installation of the retaining ring is critically important: if it does not sit in the groove, the CV joint will fly off the first time the car is started and can damage the engine.
Installation of the drive on the car and assembly
Assembly is carried out in reverse order. First, insert the inner CV joint into the transmission differential until the snap ring clicks into place. Make sure that the shaft is fully inserted, otherwise it may pop out when moving. Then insert the outer CV joint splines into the wheel hub and slide the steering knuckle onto the ball joint.
Attach the ball joint with the bolt and tighten it to the recommended torque. Screw on the tie rod if it has been disconnected. Now you can tighten the hub nut. To do this, you will need an assistant who will brake with the pedal while you tighten the nut with a wrench, or use a pneumatic tool.
| Fastening element | Recommended tightening torque (Nm) | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Hub nut | 190–210 | Replacement with a new one is required |
| Ball joint bolt | 80–90 | Use thread locker |
| Steering nut | 40–50 | Cotter pin required |
| Wheel bolts | 100–110 | Tighten crosswise |
Don't forget to install a new cotter pin on the tie rod end and put on the protective cap. Install the wheel, lower the car and finally tighten the bolts. Carry out a control check: rock the wheel, check for any play in the ball and steering ends.
Why is the hub nut disposable?
The wheel nuts on the Nissan Almera G15 are conical and deform when tightened to ensure reliable clamping. Repeated use may cause the nut to loosen on its own and cause the wheel to fall off.
Performance check and test drive
After assembly, you need to check the oil level in the gearbox and, if necessary, top it up to normal. Start the engine and let it idle, listen for any extraneous noise from the gearbox or suspension. Try to take off smoothly and drive a few meters forward and backward.
The first test drive should be careful. Drive onto a flat area and check the operation of the drive when turning. If the new CV joint is installed correctly, the clicking noise should completely disappear. Pay attention to checking the tightness of the boots: make sure that the lubricant does not leak out and that the clamps are held tightly.
- ✅ Turning test: Accelerate to 20-30 km/h and make a full turn.
- ✅ Vibration test: Check if there is any vibration in the steering wheel when accelerating.
- ✅ Noise test: Listen for a hum when driving in a straight line.
If all checks are completed successfully, the work can be considered completed. However, in the first 500-1000 kilometers it is recommended to periodically inspect the boots and oil level. Early diagnosis of CV joint problems allows you to avoid costly repairs to the differential and gearbox, since the destruction of the hinge often leads to metal shavings getting into the transmission.
Frequent mistakes when replacing CV joints
Even experienced mechanics sometimes make mistakes that lead to repeated breakdowns. One of the most common problems is improper tightening of the boot clamps. If the clamp is tightened too loosely, the lubricant will leak out, and if it is too tight, the boot may tear from the pressure. Use special tools to clamp the clamps or make sure they are tightened evenly.
Another mistake is ignoring the condition of the inner CV joint when replacing only the outer one. If the inner joint has play, vibration will be transferred to the new outer joint, shortening its life. Always check both components before starting work.
⚠️ Attention: Never use old cotter pins or bolts. The metal becomes tired and can crack under stress, causing the wheel or steering to come off.
It is also worth noting the error when pressing the CV joint. Hammer blows should be directed strictly along the axis of the shaft. Oblique impacts can damage the cage or housing, leading to rapid failure. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to turn to professionals than to risk your safety.
FAQ: Answers to popular questions
Is it possible to drive with a damaged CV joint?
Strongly not recommended. Even slight damage to the boot will result in abrasive dust and moisture getting inside the mechanism. Without lubrication, the CV joint will fail within several hundred kilometers, and in the worst case, it can jam right on the road.
What lubricant is best to use for CV joints?
It is best to use the lubricant specified by the CV joint manufacturer in the kit (usually molybdenum disulfide based). You can also use special lubricants for CV joints (for example, Lithium Complex or MoS2). Do not use graphite lubricant on internal cavities as it may cause corrosion.
Do I need to change the hub nut when replacing a CV joint?
Yes, the hub nut is on Nissan Almera G15 is a disposable item. It deforms during the first tightening to ensure the required tension. Reusing an old nut may cause it to loosen itself and cause a serious accident.
Why is there a knocking sound when driving away after replacement?
This may be caused by the hub nut not being tightened sufficiently or the retaining ring being installed incorrectly. Also, a knock may occur if the inner CV joint has play. Check all fastenings and condition of the internal hinge.
How long does it take to replace a CV joint with your own hands?
If there is a hole and the necessary tools, replacing one outer CV joint takes from 2 to 4 hours. If you are changing both axle shafts or do not have experience, the time may increase to 5-6 hours. Don't rush, build quality is more important than speed.