Changing the oil in Nissan Murano Z51 - a procedure that many owners prefer to do on their own. And for good reason: with the right approach, this saves up to 5,000 rubles per service station, and you control the quality of the work yourself. But there are nuances that are not written about in standard instructions. For example, why might it light up after replacement? oil pressure indicator, although the level is normal? Or how to avoid the overflow mistake, which leads to damage to seals?

This guide contains only verified information for Murano Z51 with engines VQ35DE (3.5 l) and QR25DE (2.5 l), incl. unique data on oil viscosity for Russian operating conditions. We will analyze not only the basic steps, but also the pitfalls: from choosing a filter (not all analogues are suitable!) to properly bleeding the system after filling. If you have never changed the oil yourself, after this article you will be able to do everything without errors.

1. When and why you need to change your oil Nissan Murano Z51

Official regulations Nissan for Murano Z51 requires oil changes every 15,000 km or once a year - whichever comes first. But these figures are calculated for ideal conditions: European roads, high-quality fuel and a temperate climate. In Russia, real intervals are reduced by 30–50%. Why?

Firstly, gasoline quality. Even at trusted gas stations, the octane number is often overestimated due to additives that accelerate oil oxidation. Secondly, dust and dirt: Russian roads wear out filters 3–5 times more. Thirdly, climate: At temperatures below –20°C and above +30°C the oil degrades faster. Therefore, experienced owners Murano Z51 adhere to the following intervals:

  • 🏙️ City mode (traffic jams, short trips): 8,000–10,000 km
  • 🛣️ Track/mixed mode: 12,000–14,000 km
  • ❄️ Extreme frosts (below –25°C): reduce interval by 20%
  • 🔥 Heat and dust (summer in the southern regions): change the oil and filter 1,000–2,000 km earlier

Another criterion - oil condition. You can check it without a laboratory:

  1. Remove the dipstick and drop oil onto white paper.
  2. If a drop spreads and has a light amber color - the oil is normal.
  3. If a drop dark, thick or with metal particles - urgent replacement!
⚠️ Attention: B Murano Z51 with a mileage of more than 100,000 km, ignoring an oil change leads to coking of piston rings And turbine wear (on models with VQ35DE). The cost of repairs is from 150,000 rubles.
📊 How often do you change the oil in your Nissan Murano Z51?
  • Strictly according to regulations (15,000 km)
  • More often than the regulations (10,000–12,000 km)
  • Less frequently than required (20,000+ km)
  • Only when the light comes on

2. What kind of oil to fill in Nissan Murano Z51: viscosity, brands, volume

Choosing oil for Murano Z51 depends on engine, climate And mileage. Official recommendations Nissan:

Engine Viscosity (SAE) Specification Volume with filter replacement
VQ35DE (3.5 l) 5W-30 or 5W-40 API SN, ILSAC GF-5 4.8 l
QR25DE (2.5 l) 0W-20 or 5W-30 API SN, ILSAC GF-5 4.4 l
For mileage >150,000 km 5W-40 (increased viscosity) API SN Plus, GF-6 The same

But these recommendations are base. There are adjustments for Russia:

  • 🥶 Winter (below –20°C): only 0W-20 or 0W-30 (synthetic). 5W-30 oils thicken at –25°C, making cold starts difficult.
  • ☀️ Summer (above +30°C): 5W-40 or 10W-40 (semi-synthetics are acceptable for QR25DE).
  • 🛢️ Mileage >200,000 km: oil with molybdenum (For example, Liqui Moly Molygen) to protect worn parts.

Top 5 oils for Murano Z51 according to owner reviews (2026):

  1. Nissan Strong Save X E 5W-30 (original, optimal for warranty cars).
  2. Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 (better for turbocharged VQ35DE).
  3. Liqui Moly Top Tec 4200 5W-30 (universal choice).
  4. Castrol Edge 5W-40 (for hot climates).
  5. Idemitsu Zepro Touring 0W-20 (for frosts below –30°C).
⚠️ Attention: Don't use oil 10W-60 or 20W-50 - it is not suitable for Murano Z51! These viscosities are intended for sports engines and result in oil starvation at cold start.
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Before buying oil, check its authenticity through the official websites of brands (from Mobil, Castrol And Liqui Moly There are verification services by batch number).

3. Selecting an oil filter: original vs analogues

Oil filter in Murano Z51 - a detail that you should not skimp on. A bad filter not only cleans the oil worse, but can also burst under pressure (especially at high speeds). Original filter from Nissan has an article number 15208-9F600 (for VQ35DE) and 15208-65F0E (for QR25DE). Its average price is 800–1,200 rubles.

If there is no original, here are proven analogues:

  • 🔧 Mann W 712/92 (Germany, best price/quality ratio).
  • 🔧 Framm PH7317 (USA, good filtration, but the body is thinner than the original).
  • 🔧 Bosch 0 451 103 316 (suitable for severe operating conditions).
  • 🔧 Mahle OC 593/3 (Japan, identical to the original in characteristics).

What is important to check when purchasing a filter:

  1. Backflow valve: Should be rubber, not plastic.
  2. Spring: in the original it is metal, in fakes it is plastic.
  3. O-ring: Should be soft and elastic to the touch.
How to spot a fake filter?

Fakes often have:

- Uneven seams on the body.

- Dull or blurry markings.

- Light weight (the original has metal parts).

- Strong chemical smell (high-quality rubber smells neutral).

4. Preparing for replacement: tools and safety precautions

To change the oil in Murano Z51 you will need:

  • 🔧 Key on 14 mm (for drain plug).
  • 🔧 Oil filter puller (better chain or crab).
  • 🔧 Funnel with a narrow neck (so as not to spill oil on the cylinder block).
  • 🔧 Capacity for working out (minimum 5 l).
  • 🔧 Nitrile gloves (oil contains carcinogens).
  • 🔧 Lint-free rags.
  • 🔧 Torque wrench (optional, but recommended for tightening the plug).

Where is the best place to change the oil:

  • 🚗 Overpass or inspection hole - the best option.
  • 🚗 Lift — convenient, but requires fixing the car.
  • 🚗 Jack - only as a last resort! Lift up only the front part and put supports under the rear wheels.
⚠️ Attention: Never work under a machine that is supported only by a jack! In 2023, 12 cases of cars falling while changing the oil were recorded in Russia - 3 of them were fatal.

Before starting work:

  1. Warm up the engine until 50–60°C (the oil will become less viscous and drain faster).
  2. Open the hood and remove the oil filler cap (this will speed up draining).
  3. If the car is on a jack - lock the handbrake and place chocks under the wheels.

Warm up the engine to 50–60°C

Open the oil filler neck

Prepare a container for processing

Wear gloves and safety glasses

Secure the car (if on a jack) -->

5. Step-by-step instructions: draining the old oil and replacing the filter

Now let's move on to the process itself. Follow the instructions strictly step by step - this will help you avoid mistakes.

Step 1: Drain the oil

  1. Place a container under the drain plug (it is located in back of the pallet).
  2. Key on 14 mm loosen the plug, then unscrew it by hand. Be careful — the oil is hot!
  3. Let the oil drain at least 10 minutes. To drain the maximum amount, you can tilt the car slightly towards the drain (by jacking up the right front wheel).

Step 2: Replacing the oil filter

  1. The filter is located front of the cylinder block (on VQ35DE — closer to the radiator).
  2. Use a puller to unscrew the filter. If it gets stuck, pierce it with a screwdriver and use it as a lever.
  3. Before installing a new filter, lubricate o-ring fresh oil.
  4. Screw the filter by hand until it stops, then tighten it ¾ of a turn (do not overtighten!).

Step 3: Flush the system (optional)

If you change the type of oil (for example, from semi-synthetic to synthetic) or there were flakes/sludge, flushing is recommended. To do this:

  1. Screw on the drain plug and fill flushing oil (For example, Liqui Moly Pro-Line).
  2. Start the engine and let it run 5–7 minutes at idle speed.
  3. Drain the wash and only then install a new filter.
⚠️ Attention: Do not use kerosene based “five minute” washes! They destroy oil seals and lead to oil leaks after 1,000–2,000 km.
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After draining the oil, always check the magnet on the drain plug - if there are a lot of metal shavings on it, this is a sign of engine wear and a reason for diagnosis.

6. Filling with new oil and checking the level

This is where many people make critical mistakes. Main rule: do not fill the entire volume at once!

Step 1. First fill

  1. Install a funnel into the oil filler neck.
  2. Fill with oil slowly, in portions of 0.5 liters to avoid air locks.
  3. For VQ35DE fill it first 4 l, for QR25DE — 3.5 l.

Step 2. Check the level

  1. Wait 2-3 minutes for the oil to drain into the pan.
  2. Remove the dipstick, wipe it with a rag and lower it again until it stops.
  3. The level should be between the marks MIN And MAX, closer to MAX.

Step 3. Topping up and bleeding the system

  1. Add oil to the required level (usually another 0.3–0.8 l is required).
  2. Start the engine and let it run 30 seconds at idle.
  3. Rev up 2,500–3,000 rpm for 5-10 seconds - this will bleed the system.
  4. Turn off the engine, check the level again and top up if necessary.

What to do if you overfilled the oil:

  • 🔧 If there is overflow up to 200 ml - not critical, but watch the pressure.
  • 🔧 If there is overflow more than 300 ml — drain the excess through the drain plug.

1. Turn on the ignition (do not start the engine).

2. Press the gas pedal all the way and hold for 10 seconds.

3. Press the button TRIP 3 times in a row.

The counter will reset to zero and the oil change reminder will disappear.-->

7. Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced car owners sometimes make mistakes when changing the oil. Here are the most common:

  • 🚨 Incorrect oil viscosity → leads to oil starvation in winter or overheating in the summer.
  • 🚨 Overtightened drain plug → breaks the thread in the pan (repair - from 8,000 rubles).
  • 🚨 Unlubricated filter o-ring → the filter “sticks” or leaks.
  • 🚨 Forgot to tighten the oil filler cap → oil splashes around the engine compartment.
  • 🚨 Used flushing on a worn out engine → washes away deposits that clog oil channels.

How to avoid problems:

  1. Always check tightening torque traffic jams: 35–40 Nm (use a torque wrench).
  2. After changing the oil look under the car after 10–15 minutes, see if there are any leaks.
  3. If after replacement it lights up check engine or oil pressure light, immediately check the level and quality of the filter.
What should I do if the pressure light comes on after changing the oil?

1. Turn off the engine and check the oil level.

2. If the level is normal, start the engine and listen for any extraneous noise (knocking, grinding).

3. If the light blinks only at idle, it may be faulty oil pressure sensor (article 25080-3M600).

4. If the light is constantly on, do not operate the car! It could be oil pump malfunction or clogging of the oil receiver mesh.

8. Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Is it possible to use 10W-40 oil in Murano Z51 with mileage 150,000 km?

Yes, but only if the climate is warm (not lower than –15°C in winter). Better for frosts 5W-40 with increased viscosity. 10W-40 oils thicken in cold weather, making starting difficult and increasing engine wear.

How much oil should I fill if I don't change the filter?

For VQ35DE — 4.5 l, for QR25DE — 4.1 l. But we do not recommend leaving the old filter: up to 200 ml of dirty oil remains in it, which will mix with the new one.

How often should the oil filter be changed?

The filter changes every time when changing the oil! Even if you use “long-lasting” filters (for example, Mann), their service life is calculated for one oil change interval.

Is it possible to mix oils from different brands?

It is possible, but only if they have same viscosity and specification (for example, both 5W-30 API SN). However, it is better to avoid mixing - additives from different manufacturers may react.

Why did the engine become louder after changing the oil?

Possible reasons:

  1. Oil filled wrong viscosity (too runny).
  2. Insufficient oil level (check dipstick).
  3. The oil filter is defective (for example, the check valve does not work).
  4. There is an air lock in the system (you need to warm up the engine and give it gas).

If the noise does not disappear, contact us for diagnostics.