Nissan Murano Z52 (third generation, 2015–2026) equipped with a CVT Jatco JF017E or classic automatic transmission RE0F10D - depending on the market and year of manufacture. Both transmissions are demanding on the quality of oil, and untimely replacement leads to premature wear of solenoids and slippage of the variator belt already by 100,000 km. This guide contains only verified data: from choosing the original oil to the nuances of resetting adaptations after replacement.

Owners Murano Z52 Often faced with myths: they say, “the variator does not require maintenance” or “a partial replacement every 150,000 km is sufficient.” In practice complete automatic transmission oil change (with removing the pan and washing the filter) it is recommended every 60,000–80,000 km - especially if the car is used in the city or with a trailer. In the article we will look at:

📊 What type of automatic transmission is installed in your Murano Z52?
  • CVT JF017E
  • Classic automatic RE0F10D
  • I don't know, haven't checked
  • Other type

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1. What kind of oil to fill in the automatic transmission of Nissan Murano Z52: original vs analogues

For CVT JF017E officially recommended only Nissan CVT Fluid NS-3 (article KLE52-00004). This synthetic oil with a unique additive package that prevents wear of the belt and cones. Analogues (like Idemitsu CVTF or Ravenol CVT) can be used, but only if they comply with the specification NS-3 - otherwise risk loss of warranty when contacting a dealership.

For classic automatic transmission RE0F10D fits Nissan Matic S ATF (article KLE52-00002). Important: the oil must be red - green or yellow (for example, Dexron VI) is not compatible with the solenoids of this box. When mixing different types of oils, it is possible jerks when switching And valve body contamination.

  • 🔹 Original oils:
    • Nissan CVT Fluid NS-3 — for the variator (4 liters for a complete replacement)
    • Nissan Matic S ATF — for automatic transmission (8–9 liters for a complete replacement)
  • 🔹 Acceptable analogues (only in the absence of the original!):
    • Idemitsu CVTF (NS-3) - for CVT
    • Mobil ATF 3309 — for automatic transmission (corresponds to Matic S)
  • ⚠️ Prohibited oils:
    • Dexron III/VI - destroys clutches in RE0F10D
    • Universal CVT Fluid - incompatible with NS-3 by viscosity
⚠️ Attention: If the box has already been filled with non-original oil, before switching to NS-3 or Matic S required flushing the system special cleaner (for example, Liqui Moly ATF Reiniger). Otherwise, the remnants of old oil will negate the effect of the replacement.
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Using non-original oil in the variator JF017E reduces its resource by 30–40% after 50,000 km.

2. Change intervals: when to change the oil in the Murano Z52 automatic transmission

Official regulations Nissan for Murano Z52 prescribes check the oil every 30,000 km and replacement - once every 90,000 km. However, these figures are only relevant for “ideal” conditions: highway, moderate climate, no towing. In reality, the intervals are reduced:

Operating conditions Recommended replacement interval Replacement type
City (traffic jams, frequent acceleration) 50,000–60,000 km Full
Track (flat ride) 70,000–80,000 km Partial
Towing a trailer/off-road driving 40,000–50,000 km Complete + filter replacement
Extreme temperatures (-30°C to +40°C) 45,000–55,000 km Full with flushing

How to determine when it's time to change the oil already now?

  • 🔧 Oil color: if it is dark brown or black on the dipstick - urgent replacement.
  • 🔧 Burning smell: indicates overheating and destruction of additives.
  • 🔧 Slipping or jerking: especially when starting or shifting into "D"/"R".
  • 🔧 Hum or vibration: a sign of bearing wear due to old oil.
⚠️ Attention: In the variator JF017E even a partial oil change without removing the pan is useless - up to 40% of the old oil remains in the torque converter and radiator. A complete replacement is required!

3. Preparation for replacement: tools and consumables

To change the automatic transmission oil yourself Murano Z52 you will need:

New oil (9–12 liters for a complete change)|Automatic transmission filter (part number 31728-31X0A for variator)|Pan gasket (art. no. 31397-31X00)|Drain plug wrench (10mm hexagon)|Funnel with extension for filling oil|Drain container (at least 5 liters)|Torque wrench (for tightening pan bolts)|Scanner for resetting adaptations (e.g. Launch X431 or ELM327)-->

Special attention - automatic transmission filter. In the variator JF017E he metal and must be washed, and in a classic automatic transmission RE0F10D — paper (disposable). It is better to take a pan gasket Nissan or Fel-Pro - cheap analogues often leak after 10,000 km.

If you plan complete replacement (with flushing the system), you will also need:

  • 🛠️ Automatic transmission cleaner (For example, Liqui Moly ATF Reiniger)
  • 🛠️ New pan bolts (it is recommended to replace, because the old ones are deformed)
  • 🛠️ Syringe for pumping oil (if there is no special stand)
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Before changing, warm up the oil in the automatic transmission to 50–60°C - this will drain it faster and more completely. To do this, it is enough to drive 10–15 km or let the engine idle for 5–7 minutes.

4. Step-by-step instructions: how to change the oil in a Murano Z52 automatic transmission

Let's consider complete replacement (relevant for CVT JF017E). For classic automatic transmission RE0F10D the process is similar, but the volume of oil is larger (8–9 liters instead of 6–7).

Step 1: Drain the old oil

1. Raise the machine on a lift or ramp. Make sure she's standing strictly horizontal - otherwise the oil will not drain completely.

2. Remove the crankcase protection (if equipped). Place a container under the drain plug.

3. Unscrew the plug with a 10 mm wrench. Be careful - there will be oil hot!

4. Wait until it drains completely (about 3-4 liters). If the oil does not flow, check if the drain pipe is clogged (a common problem after 100,000 km).

Step 2: Removing the pan and replacing the filter

1. Unscrew all the pallet bolts (there are 18–20 of them). Start at the corners, gradually loosening the fastening.

2. Carefully remove the pan - there will still be ~1 liter of oil left in it. Clean it of old gasket and metal shavings (its presence indicates bearing wear).

3. Take out the filter. It can be washed in the variator carb cleaner, in automatic transmission - just replace.

4. Install a new filter and gasket. Tighten the pan bolts criss-cross with effort 8–10 Nm (do not overtighten!).

Step 3: Flush the System (Optional)

If the oil was very dirty, flushing is recommended:

1. Fill 1 liter automatic transmission cleaner (For example, Liqui Moly ATF Reiniger).

2. Start the engine and let it idle for 5–10 minutes, alternately switching the selector between “P” and “D”.

3. Drain the flushing fluid and repeat the process with fresh oil.

Step 4: Add new oil

1. Fill in new oil through the filler neck (located on top of the box, under the hood). For the variator you will need 6–7 liters, for automatic transmission - 8–9 liters.

2. Start the engine and warm up the oil to 40–50°C. Check the level on the dipstick - it should be between the "HOT" marks.

3. Drive 5–10 km and recheck the level. Top up if necessary.

What to do if you overfilled the oil?

If the oil level is above the "MAX" mark on the dipstick, drain the excess through the drain plug. Overfilling causes the oil to foam, which causes pressure loss And variator belt slippage. In severe cases, solenoids may need to be replaced.

5. Resetting automatic transmission adaptations after changing the oil

After changing the oil necessarily you need to reset the adaptation (learning) box. Otherwise the following are possible:

  • 🚗 Jerks when switching
  • 🚗 Delays at start
  • 🚗 Increased fuel consumption

There are two ways to reset adaptations:

  1. Via scanner (recommended):
    • Connect Launch X431, ELM327 or another scanner that supports Nissan.
    • Select menu Transmission → Adaptation Reset.
    • Follow the instructions on the screen (usually you need to press the brake pedal and move the selector to all positions).
  • Manual reset (if there is no scanner): 
    1. Заглушите двигатель, переведите селектор в "P".

    2. Выключите зажигание на 10 секунд.
    

    3. Заведите двигатель и дайте поработать 1 минуту на холостых.
    

    4. Поочерёдно переключите селектор во все положения ("P"-"R"-"N"-"D"-"S"), задерживаясь в каждом на 5 секунд.
    

    5. Повторите цикл 3 раза.

    • ⚠️ Attention: If after resetting the adaptations the jerking does not disappear, it is possible that the wrong type of oil was filled in or that it is required replacing solenoids. In the variator JF017E Solenoids most often fail TCM-1 And TCM-2.

    6. Common mistakes and how to avoid them

    Even experienced technicians make mistakes when changing automatic transmission oil. Murano Z52. Here are the most critical ones:

    • ❌ Incorrect oil level:
      • Underfilling leads to oil starvation and bearing wear.
      • Overflow causes foaming and loss of pressure.
      How to avoid: Check the level on a heated box (50–60°C) strictly using the dipstick.
    • ❌ Using a non-original filter:
      • Cheap filters (for example, no-name from AliExpress) do not have a backflow valve, which leads to dry start boxes.
      How to avoid: Take only Nissan (article 31728-31X0A) or ATP.
    • ❌ Ignoring flushing:
      • If there are a lot of metal shavings in the pan, its particles will remain in the system and quickly clog the new filter.
      How to avoid: In case of severe contamination, use flushing fluid or remove the automatic transmission radiator for complete cleaning.
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    The most common cause of variator failure JF017E after changing the oil - non-compliance with the temperature regime when checking the level. The oil must be heated to 50–60°C, otherwise the dipstick readings will be incorrect.

    7. Signs of automatic transmission malfunction after changing the oil

    If problems appear after changing the oil, their causes may be as follows:

    Symptom Possible reason Solution
    Jerks when switching Adaptations not reset Reset via scanner or manually
    Hum or vibration Lack of oil or air in the system Check the level, bleed the system
    "Check Engine" light came on Incompatible oil or solenoid error Diagnostics with a scanner, oil change with original
    Belt slippage (CVT) Worn cones or solenoids Replacement of solenoids or repair of variator

    If the problems do not disappear after re-checking the level and resetting the adaptations, the reasons may be more serious:

    • 🔧 Solenoid wear (especially in a variator)
    • 🔧 Valve block contamination (requires automatic transmission disassembly)
    • 🔧 Damage to the automatic transmission radiator (oil mixed with antifreeze)

    8. Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

    ❓ Is it possible to mix NS-3 oil with NS-2?

    No! Oils NS-2 And NS-3 They have different viscosities and additive packages. Mixing will lead to loss of properties and possible slippage of the variator belt. If you need to top up, use only NS-3.

    ❓ How much oil is needed for a complete change in the JF017E variator?

    For complete replacement (with removal of the pan and washing) will be required 7–8 liters NS-3. For partial replacement (without removing the pan) - approx. 4 liters, but this is less efficient.

    ❓ Is it necessary to change the oil in the automatic transmission if the car is under warranty?

    Yes, but only official dealer. Replacing it yourself or contacting a third-party service may cause refusal of warranty repair. Dealership centers use original oil and record the replacement in the service book.

    ❓ How often should you check the oil level in the automatic transmission?

    Every 10,000 km or before long trips. The level is checked for warmed up box (after 10–15 km of driving) with the engine running. The dipstick should show the level between the "HOT" marks.

    ❓ Is it possible to drive with dirty oil in an automatic transmission?

    Technically it is possible, but this reduces the life of the box by 30–50%. In the variator JF017E old oil leads to:

    • Worn belt and cones
    • Jamming of solenoids
    • Overheating and slippage

    If the oil turns black or smells burning - emergency replacement!