The braking system is the foundation of any vehicle's safety, and Nissan Almera Classic this is no exception. The rear brake mechanisms in this model have their own design features, which often cause difficulties for owners when servicing themselves. Ignoring friction lining wear can lead not only to squeaking and reduced braking efficiency, but also to critical damage to the brake discs, which will require much more expensive repairs.
The process of replacing the pads on the rear axle of this vehicle requires attention to detail, especially when working with the handbrake mechanism and caliper piston. Unlike the front brakes, here the piston is not simply pressed in, but requires twisting for a certain type of mechanism, or careful compression if the mechanism is drum (depending on the year of manufacture and configuration, but most often the Almera Classic has drum brakes at the rear, which radically changes the approach to work). In this article, we'll break down both options, if applicable, and focus on the most common configuration for this model.
Design features of rear brakes on Nissan Almera Classic
Car Nissan Almera Classic (B10 body) is often equipped with drum brakes at the rear, which causes confusion among drivers accustomed to disc mechanisms on all axles. This arrangement is due to economy and sufficient efficiency for a small sedan, however, servicing the drum assembly has its own subtleties. You need to understand that inside the drum there is a complex mechanism for releasing the pads, which includes rods, levers and springs, which must be installed strictly in accordance with the diagram.
The key element here is the lash adjuster, which automatically tightens the pads as they wear when the handbrake is used. If this mechanism becomes sour or fails, the gap will increase and the brake pedal will begin to sink too deeply. When replacing pads, it is important to check the condition of this regulator and lubricate its special points, but do not overdo it with the amount of lubricant so that it does not get on the friction linings. Brake disc in this case is absent, instead it is used brake drum, which covers the entire working part of the mechanism.
Many owners are faced with the fact that after removing the old drum, it cannot be removed. This is due to the fact that the springs press the pads against the working surface, as well as due to corrosion in the landing areas. In such situations, you should not hit the drum itself with a hammer, as this may deform it or damage the hub bearing. It is best to use special pullers or carefully pry the drum through the technological holes, if they are provided for in the design.
Required tools and supplies
Before starting work, make sure that you have a full set of tools at hand so as not to interrupt the process at the most crucial moment. To remove the drum brake Nissan Almera Classic you will need a standard set of sockets and wrenches, as well as specific tools for working with brake springs. The lack of a special spring remover can turn a simple replacement into torture, since the springs there are very tight and tend to fly off to the side when removed.
The list of required tools includes:
- 🔧 Set of socket heads (including 10, 12, 14, 17 mm) and wrenches
- 🔨 Hammer (preferably rubber or wooden, for carefully removing the drum)
- 🛠 Special brake spring puller (or strong pliers)
- 🧼 Brake cleaner bottle and caliper/guide lubricant
- 🧤 Safety glasses and gloves (dust from old pads is toxic)
As for consumables, in addition to the new brake pads themselves, it is highly recommended to immediately purchase a new set of springs and retainers. Old springs lose their elasticity over time, and installing new pads on old springs can lead to rapid wear and poor performance of the handbrake. It's also worth stocking up anti-corrosion lubricant for threaded connections and guide lubricant caliper (if the design involves lubrication of the axles of the release lever).
⚠️ Attention: Never use conventional lithium or graphite grease on the friction surfaces of brake mechanisms. If grease gets on the friction linings, it will lead to a complete lack of braking and the need to replace the entire set.
Step-by-step instructions for removing and replacing pads
The process begins with securing the vehicle securely. Install Nissan Almera Classic on a level surface, engage the gear and place chocks under the front wheels. Loosen the wheel bolts on the rear axle, jack up the car and remove the wheel. Now you need to remove the brake drum. If it does not come off, try unscrewing the guide pins (if there are any) or gently tap the inside of the drum with a hammer through a piece of wood, avoiding hitting the brake shields.
☑️ Preparation of the workplace
After removing the drum, you will see the entire internal structure: two shoes, release lever, handbrake cable and spring system. First, disconnect the handbrake cable from the lever on the shoe. Be careful not to damage the rubber cable boot. Next, using a puller or pliers, carefully remove the lower spring, then the upper tension spring. The pad latches on the support panel also need to be removed by pressing them with a screwdriver and turning them.
Follow the order of dismantling and carefully monitor how the springs and levers are located. If you are unsure about the circuit, take a photo before disassembling. After removing all the elements, remove the old pads. Now you need to clean the support shield from brake dust and rust. Use brake cleaner and a brush, but do it outside or in a ventilated area, as the dust is harmful to the lungs. Make sure the surface on which the pads slide is clean and smooth.
Installing new pads is done in the reverse order. Install the lower spacer bar and release lever first, then secure the new pads to the support plate. Tension the springs using a puller and connect the handbrake cable. It is important to make sure that the cable moves freely and is not twisted. Before installing the drum, check that the pads are not touching the shield and that the handbrake mechanism operates correctly when tensioned.
How to check if the installation is correct
Before putting on the drum, have a helper press the brake pedal and pull the handbrake. The pads should move apart and rest against the places of future contact with the drum, but not jam the mechanism.
Nuances of setting and adjusting the gap
After assembling the brake mechanism Nissan Almera Classic Manual clearance adjustment is often required. The automatic regulator only works when reversing using the handbrake, but if the mechanism has not been used for a long time, it may be in its extreme position. For adjustment, there is a technological hole on the back side of the brake shield, closed with a rubber plug. After removing the plug, you will see the regulator gear.
Using a screwdriver and a small hook (or special tool), you need to rotate the adjuster in one direction or another until the pads rest against the drum, and then release it a few clicks back (usually 3-5 clicks) to ensure minimal clearance. This is a critical step, as incorrect clearance will cause the brakes to constantly brake, causing the drum to overheat and waste fuel, or vice versa, the pedal will fail.
Then install the wheel, lower the car and check the brakes at low speed. The pedal should be elastic, and the handbrake should keep the car on a slope. If the handbrake does not hold, perhaps the cable is too stretched or the regulator has not worked. In this case, you will have to repeat the adjustment procedure or tighten the handbrake cable through the adjusting nut under the car, but it is better to first check the operation of the automatic adjuster.
Before driving after replacement, be sure to press the brake pedal in place several times to spread the pads and ensure they are in the correct position before driving off.
Comparison of materials and choice of manufacturer
There are many offers of brake pads on the market for Nissan Almera Classic, and the choice often falls on a compromise between price and quality. Original parts from Nissan guarantee a perfect fit, but are much more expensive than analogues. An alternative can be proven brands such as TRW, Textar or Galfer, which offer high-quality products that are close in characteristics to the original, but at a more affordable price.
When choosing pads, pay attention to the composition of the friction mixture. Ceramic or semi-metallic compounds are ideal for city use, as they provide stable braking and minimal dust formation. Metal pads, while durable, can be too harsh on the drum and create a lot of noise. Avoid cheap alternatives from unknown manufacturers, as their composition can be unpredictable, which will lead to rapid wear of the drums and the risk of brake failure.
Below is a table of popular manufacturers of rear pads for the model in question with their characteristics:
| Manufacturer | Material type | Service life | Noise level |
|---|---|---|---|
| Nissan (Original) | Organic | High | Low |
| TRW | Semi-metallic | Medium | Medium |
| Textar | Ceramic | High | Very low |
| Budget analogues | Heterogeneous | Low | High |
Choose pads with a ceramic compound for a comfortable ride and minimal dust, but remember that they require more frequent inspection than their semi-metallic counterparts.
Common maintenance mistakes and how to avoid them
One of the most common mistakes when replacing pads is ignoring the condition of the guides and the axis of the release lever. If these elements become acidic, the pads will not move apart correctly and return to their original position. This leads to constant friction, overheating and rapid wear. Be sure to clean and lubricate all moving contacts using only a special high-temperature brake grease.
Another mistake is trying to install new pads without replacing worn springs. Old springs may not be able to properly press the pads against the drum when the brake is released, causing them to seize. People also often forget to check the handbrake cable for rust and binding. If the cable does not move freely, even new pads will not work effectively.
⚠️ Attention: If you notice deep grooves or cracks on the inner surface of the brake drum, it must be replaced. Trying to sand the drum may leave it too thin, causing it to break when overheated.
You should also not neglect checking the brake fluid. When replacing pads, the fluid level in the reservoir may rise as the pistons (or release mechanism) extend further. If the level is too high, some of the liquid must be drained to avoid overflow during subsequent operation. Also check the tightness of the caps on the cylinder to prevent moisture and dirt from getting inside the mechanism.
- Once a year
- Once every 30,000 km
- Once every 50,000 km
- Only when it creaks
FAQ: Answers to popular questions
How long does it take to replace rear pads on a Nissan Almera Classic?
For an experienced technician, replacing pads on one axle takes about 40-60 minutes. If you are doing this for the first time, allow 1.5-2 hours, as it will take time to study the design, clean the parts and adjust the gap. Working with soured bolts or drums can increase this time.
Is it possible to change only one pair of rear pads?
No, you must change brake pads as a set on one axle (both rear wheels). Different wear on the pads on the left and right wheels can lead to uneven braking, the car skidding during emergency braking and the steering wheel pulling to the side.
What to do if the brake drum cannot be removed?
Try lubricating the drum seat on the hub with penetrating lubricant (WD-40) and wait 15-20 minutes. Then gently tap the inside of the drum with a rubber mallet. If it doesn’t help, you can try screwing the bolts into the technological holes (if there are any) and tighten them evenly, pushing the drum away from the hub.
How can you tell if the slack adjuster is not working?
If, after replacing the pads and several trips in reverse using the handbrake, the pads do not move apart and the gap remains too large (the pedal falls), then the regulator is stuck. In this case, it must be disassembled, cleaned and lubricated, or replaced with a new one.
Do I need to grind in new pads?
Yes, new pads require a break-in period. For the first 200-300 kilometers, avoid sudden and extreme braking. This will allow the friction layer to press evenly against the surface of the drum, ensuring maximum braking performance in the future.