Replacing brake pads on a Nissan Almera N16: a detailed guide with photos and tips

The braking system is one of the key safety components Nissan Almera N16, and timely replacement of pads directly affects braking efficiency. Owners of this model are often faced with the question: when and how to change the pads correctly in order to avoid damage to the discs and ensure safety on the road. Unlike more modern cars, Almera N16 (2000–2006) has its own design features, which are important to consider during maintenance.

In this article we will analyze the entire replacement process - from diagnosing wear to the final brake inspection. You will learn what tools are needed, how to choose quality pads for Almera N16, and what typical mistakes Beginners allowed. We'll also reveal a few hidden nuances, which are not written about in standard instructions, but which can save you time and money.

Signs of brake pad wear on Nissan Almera N16

The first signal about the need for replacement is creaking or whistling when braking. On Almera N16 this sound appears when the friction layer of the pads thins to 2–3 mm. However, creaking does not always mean critical wear: sometimes it occurs due to sand or corrosion on the surface of the disk. To be on the safe side, pay attention to other symptoms:

• 🔴 Increased braking distance - the car takes longer to stop, the pedal becomes “wobbly”.
• 🔴 Vibration or beat on the steering wheel when braking - a sign of uneven wear of the pads or deformation of the discs.
• 🔴 Metal scraping - means that the friction material has completely worn off, and now the metal of the pad is rubbing against the disc.
• 🔴 Wear indicator on the dashboard (if a sensor is installed). On Almera N16 It is rare, but some trim levels were equipped with it.

Visual inspection is the most reliable way to check. To do this, just remove the wheel and look through the hole in the caliper. If the thickness of the friction layer is less 5 mm, it's time to change the pads. On rear drum brakes (depending on the configuration), wear is determined by the play of the handbrake lever or through the inspection window in the shield.

⚠️ Attention: If the pads show cracks, chips or oil, they need to be replaced regardless of thickness. Oil on the friction layer leads to “skidding” of the brakes and requires mandatory diagnostics of the caliper or cylinders.

Which pads to choose for Nissan Almera N16: original vs analogues

Original pads for Almera N16 are produced under articles Nissan 40520-4M000 (before) and Nissan 40520-4M010 (rear, for drum brakes). Their average price is 2500–3500 rub. per set. However, many owners prefer analogues, which are often not inferior in quality, but are cheaper.

Brand	Article (front)	Article (rear)	Price, rub.	Features
Nissan (original)	40520-4M000	40520-4M010	2500–3500	Optimal balance of wear and braking properties, minimal noise.
Brembo	P 24 030	P 24 031	1800–2200	High coefficient of friction, but may creak for the first 200 km.
Ferodo	FDB425	FDB426	1500–1900	They are soft, make little noise, but wear out faster.
TRW	GDB340	GDB341	1700–2100	Good wear resistance, suitable for aggressive driving style.

When choosing analogues, pay attention to friction material composition:

• 🔹 Semi-metallic - durable, but noisy and wear out discs faster.
• 🔹 Ceramic — quiet and generate little dust, but more expensive and less effective at low temperatures.
• 🔹 Organic - soft, silent, but quickly erased.

For Almera N16 optimal choice - Ferodo or TRW, if you drive mainly around the city. Better suited for the track and active driving Brembo. Budget options you can consider Ate or Bosch, but their resource is 20–30% lower than the original.

Tools and materials for replacing pads

To work, you will need a standard set of tools, but there are also specific devices that you cannot do without. For example, sliding pliers for caliper piston or special wrench for guides (if they are sour). Here's the full list:

• 🔧 Jack and stops (be sure to insure your car!).
• 🔧 Balloon wrench for removing wheels.
• 🔧 Socket heads on 14 mm And 17 mm (for caliper).
• 🔧 7 mm hexagon (for guides).
• 🔧 Hammer and wooden spacer (for knocking out stuck pads).
• 🔧 WD-40 or similar for processing rusty parts.
• 🔧 DOT-4 brake fluid (in case of bleeding the system).
• 🔧 Copper grease for guides and the back of the pads.

If on your Almera N16 There are rear drum brakes, additionally prepare:

• 🔧 Puller for tension springs.
• 🔧 Long nose pliers to remove the fasteners.
• 🔧 Adjusting key for handbrake (if a lift is required).

Don't skimp on caliper lubricant! Cheap analogues can corrode rubber boots, which will lead to jamming of the piston. The best option is Slipkote 220-R DBC or TRW PFG110.

Raise the car on a jack and install supports under the rear wheels (if you are changing the front ones)|Remove the wheel and clean the caliper from dirt with a wire brush|Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir (it will rise when the piston sinks)|Prepare new pads and grease for the guides-->

Step-by-step instructions: replacing front pads

Replacement process Almera N16 standard, but there are a couple of nuances. For example, caliper guides They often get stuck and have to be knocked out. It is also important to recess the piston correctly so as not to damage the boot. Follow the algorithm:

1. Removing the wheel and caliper.
   

   Raise the car, remove the wheel and clean the caliper of dirt. Unscrew the two caliper mounting bolts (usually 14 mm), but do not remove the brake fluid hose! Hang the caliper on a wire to the strut spring so as not to strain the hose.

2. Removing old pads.
   

   Carefully remove the pads from the bracket. If they stick, lightly tap with a hammer through the wooden spacer. Please note spring clips — they are easy to lose when removing.

3. Recessing the piston.
   

   Use sliding pliers or a special tool to press the piston back into the cylinder. On Almera N16 The piston rotates clockwise when depressed - This is often overlooked, making it impossible to move.

4. Installing new pads.
   

   Apply a thin layer of copper grease to the back of the pads (not the friction layer!). Insert them into the bracket, making sure the clips are in place. Then install the caliper back and tighten the bolts to torque. 30–35 Nm.

After assembly, press the brake pedal several times until the piston is in working position. Then check the brake fluid level - if it has risen above the maximum, pump out the excess with a syringe.

⚠️ Attention: If after replacement the brake pedal becomes soft, this is a sign of air getting into the system. In this case, the brakes need to be pumped, otherwise braking efficiency will decrease.

What to do if the caliper piston does not retract?

If the piston does not move even after applying force, it is most likely soured. In this case:

1. Remove the caliper completely by disconnecting the brake hose (plug it so that the fluid does not leak out!).

2. Rinse the piston with brake fluid and try gently tapping it with a wooden block.

3. If it doesn’t help, the caliper needs to be replaced or at least its repair kit (boot + cuff).

Features of replacing rear pads (drum brakes)

On Almera N16 rear brakes can be either disc (rarely) or drum. The latter are more difficult to maintain, but if you have a tool, the task is doable. The main difficulty is drum removal, which often sticks to the hub. Here's how to proceed:

1. Removing the drum.
   

   Unscrew the guide pins (if any) and try to pull the drum off with your hands. If that doesn’t work, screw two bolts into the special holes on the drum - this will help “move” it. Do not hit directly with a hammer - you risk damaging the hub!

2. Cleaning and inspection of the mechanism.
   

   After removing the drum, clean the mechanism from dirt and check the condition brake cylinder. If there are fluid leaks on it, replacement is required. Also inspect the springs and the handbrake lever - they should not have cracks.

3. Installing new pads.
   

   Compress the cylinder pistons and install new pads, starting with the bottom. Secure them with springs (use a puller!) and adjust the gap between the pads and the drum using an eccentric.

4. Adjusting the handbrake.
   

   After assembly, check the tension of the handbrake cable. On Almera N16 adjustment is made with a nut under the machine, next to the rear beam. Optimal lever stroke - 3–5 clicks.

If the drum does not fit back on after installing the pads, it means the pads are too thick or the pistons are not fully recessed. In this case, you will have to loosen the handbrake cable and repeat the adjustment.

Common mistakes when replacing pads and how to avoid them

Even experienced car owners sometimes make mistakes that lead to squeaking, uneven brake wear, or even brake failure. Here are the most common mistakes on Almera N16:

• ❌ Ignoring caliper guides.
  

  If the guides are not lubricated or rust is not removed, the caliper will jam and the pads will wear unevenly. Periodically check the play of the guides - it should be minimal.

• ❌ Incorrect installation of springs on drum brakes.
  

  If the springs are twisted or loose, the pads will “walk” and the braking distance will increase. Always use a special spring puller!

• ❌ They forget to recess the piston before installing new pads.
  

  This leads to the fact that the caliper does not sit in place, and when installed forcefully, the pads will be constantly pressed against the disc, overheating it.

• ❌ Using unsuitable lubricant.
  

  Graphite or lithol grease corrodes rubber boots. Use only specialized compounds for brake systems.

Another common problem is squeak after replacement. It may occur due to:

• 🔊 Poor quality pads (especially semi-metallic ones).
• 🔊 Lack of anti-squeak plates (if they are provided for in the design).
• 🔊 Dirt gets between the pad and the caliper.

To eliminate squeaking, apply anti-squeak paste (For example, Liqui Moly Bremsen-Anti-Quietsch-Paste) on the back of the pads before installation.

Checking the brakes after replacing the pads

After installing new pads necessarily Take a test drive to ensure the system is working properly. Here's what to check:

1. The softness of the pedal.
   

   The pedal should be pressed smoothly, without dips. If it is “wobbly”, air may have entered the system and bleeding is required.

2. No beating in the steering wheel.
   

   Beating when braking indicates deformation of the discs or uneven wear of the pads. If the disc fails, it needs to be sharpened or replaced.

3. Braking efficiency.
   

   At speed 40–50 km/h The braking distance should be stable, without jerking. If the car brakes worse than before the replacement, check the installation of the pads and the condition of the discs.

4. Handbrake operation.
   

   On a slope 20% The car should be held securely for 3-4 clicks of the lever. If the handbrake does not hold, adjust the cable.

First 200–300 km After replacing, avoid sharp braking - the pads need to get used to. During this period, braking distances may be slightly longer than usual.

Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Is it possible to change the pads on only one axle (for example, only the front ones)?

No, the pads are always replaced as a set on one axle (both front or both rear). If you replace only one side, the braking force will be distributed unevenly, which will lead to skidding during emergency braking. The exception is if the pads on the second side are almost new (for example, recently replaced).

How long do the pads last on Nissan Almera N16?

Service life depends on driving style and quality of pads:

• 🔹 Front: 30,000–50,000 km (less for city driving, longer on the highway).
• 🔹 Rear (drum): 80,000–100,000 km, but require periodic adjustment.

Aggressive driving, frequent braking and driving on mountain roads reduce the resource by 30–40%.

Do I need to bleed the brakes after replacing the pads?

Bleeding is required only in two cases:

1. If you have disconnected the brake hose from the caliper.
2. If the brake pedal becomes soft after replacement (a sign of air ingress).

If you simply recessed the piston and did not violate the tightness of the system, bleeding is not necessary. However, check the brake fluid level - when the piston is retracted, it rises.

What to do if a squeaking noise appears after replacing the pads?

Creak for the first time 100–200 km - a normal phenomenon (surfaces are rubbing in). If it doesn't pass:

• 🔧 Check if any dirt has gotten between the pad and the deepport.
• 🔧 Apply anti-squeak paste to the back of the pads.
• 🔧 Make sure that the pads are of the correct brand and not counterfeit (especially important for Brembo And Ferodo).
• 🔧 If the squeak is metallic, the friction layer may have worn off and the pads are rubbing metal against the disc (urgent replacement required!).

Is it possible to sharpen brake discs on Almera N16 yourself?

Theoretically it is possible, but in practice it is impractical. Discs on Almera N16 thin (thickness of new ones - 20–22 mm), and after grooving their service life is reduced to 10,000–15,000 km. In addition, grooving requires a special machine, and manual processing with sandpaper or a grinder will only worsen the beating. If the discs have deep grooves or are thinner 18 mm, it is better to replace them.