Owners Nissan Almera N16 generations often face the need to service the brake system, especially when the mileage approaches the 100 thousand kilometer mark. The rear brakes on this model play a critical role not only in stopping the car, but also in the operation of the parking brake, which here is implemented through a separate cable mechanism inside the caliper.
Ignoring signs of wear or installing cheap analogues can lead to jamming of the caliper, overheating of the drum and, as a result, a complete loss of braking efficiency on the rear axle. To avoid costly repairs, it is important to understand the difference between original parts and high-quality substitutes, as well as to know the specific design of the rear brake mechanisms specifically for this platform.
In this article we will look at all aspects of rear brake service: from diagnostics to final assembly. You will learn which brands are really worth the money, how to properly release the caliper piston, and why even new pads sometimes squeak.
Design features and signs of wear
Rear brake system Nissan Almera N16 has its own specifics. Unlike front disc brakes, this one uses a classic brake drum and pad combination. Inside the drum there are two shoes: one driving, the other driven, as well as a parking brake mechanism driven by a cable.
Wear can be determined by several characteristic signs. Firstly, this is the appearance of a metallic grinding sound when you press the brake pedal if only metal bases remain on the pads. Secondly, an increase in the brake pedal travel or the need to press harder on it to stop. Thirdly, the car may pull to the side during heavy braking, which indicates uneven wear on the pairs of pads.
There is also a specific symptom characteristic of Nissan Almera: Spontaneous heating of the wheels after a trip. If you touch the wheel and it's scorching hot, even if you haven't used the handbrake, it's likely the caliper guides are stuck or the pads aren't clearing the drum. This is an emergency situation that requires immediate attention.
- 🔊 The appearance of extraneous sounds (grinding, squeaking) when braking.
- 📉 Increased braking distance and sluggish pedal response.
- 🔥 Overheating of the rear wheels after a short trip.
- ⚖️ The car is pulled to the side during emergency braking.
You should not put off visiting a service station or replacing it yourself if you notice at least one of these symptoms. The safety of passengers and the integrity of the brake disc (drum) directly depend on the thickness of the friction layer.
⚠️ Attention: Operating a car with completely worn out pads causes the metal base of the pad to come into contact with the drum, causing it to fail. Replacing a drum costs 2-3 times more than a set of pads, so saving money here is inappropriate.
Selection of suitable components and articles
When choosing new pads for Nissan Almera N16 It is important to consider that there are many options on the market: from original parts to budget analogues. The original is marked as Nissan and usually comes in boxes with high quality packaging, but they are priced accordingly. Often large manufacturers are behind the original, such as TRW or NTK.
An alternative is quality brands that produce pads not only for dealers, but also for assembly lines. Among them are Textar, SBS, ATE and Remsa. These manufacturers offer an excellent balance between price and resource. Budget options like Blue Print or Febi are also acceptable, but their service life may be lower and the friction mixture may be more rigid.
You should avoid purchasing unknown brands with a “factory” name, since the quality of the friction mixture in them is unpredictable. Sometimes they contain too many metal shavings, which kills the drums after a couple of thousand kilometers. Before purchasing, be sure to check the catalog numbers, as there may be slight differences in the configuration in different markets (Europe, Russia, Japan).
- Original (Nissan)
- Premium (TRW, Textar)
- Middle segment (SBS, ATE)
- Budget (Blue Print, Febi)
For ease of selection, below is a table with popular articles that are suitable for most modifications Nissan Almera N16 with rear drum brakes.
| Brand | Article number (Example) | Type | Indicative resource |
|---|---|---|---|
| Nissan | 41060-85200 | Original | 60-80 thousand km |
| TRW | GDB1322 | Premium | 50-70 thousand km |
| Textar | 91066601 | Premium | 45-60 thousand km |
| Remsa | 6606.00 | Medium | 40-50 thousand km |
Please note, always check compatibility with your vehicle's VIN before purchasing, especially if the vehicle has been converted or has non-standard brake options.
Preparation for replacement and necessary tools
The process of replacing rear pads Nissan Almera N16 does not require sophisticated equipment, but having the right set of tools will significantly speed up the work and protect you from injury. You will need a standard set of sockets, wrenches, a jack and stands for the car. The caliper piston compression tool is also critical.
Unlike the front calipers, the rear ones require a specific approach to expanding the piston. Simply pressing it in with a screwdriver will not work—it must be rotated and pressed in at the same time. A special brake caliper wrench is ideal for this, or a simple adjustable wrench if you have enough experience and strong hands.
Don't forget to prepare lubricant for the caliper guides and pins. Use only specialized high-temperature lubricants, such as those based on copper paste or graphite. Regular machine oil or WD-40 are absolutely not suitable here, as they will burn out and cause the mechanism to jam.
☑️ Preparing to replace pads
Before starting work, be sure to clean the area around the brake drum from dirt and rust. Dust from old pads is toxic, so it is better to carry out work in the fresh air or in a well-ventilated area using a respirator.
⚠️ Warning: Never use compressed air to clean brake dust from your face or clothing. Small particles of asbestos or ceramics can enter the lungs and cause serious illness.
Step-by-step instructions for replacing rear pads
We begin the process by removing the wheel. Loosen the mounting bolts while the vehicle is standing, then jack it up and place it on a secure stand. Remove the wheel and unscrew the two brake drum guide screws. If the drum is stuck, gently tap it with a hammer through a piece of wood or use a puller.
After removing the drum, you will see a mechanism with pads and springs. First you need to disconnect the parking brake cable, which is attached to the rear shoe. Then bend back the clips and remove the upper and lower springs that hold the pads in place. Be careful, the springs are under tension and may fly off.
Next, remove the spacer bar and caliper piston. The piston must be carefully pressed inward, rotating it clockwise (when viewed from the front). After this, you can remove the old pads and clean their installation areas from dirt and rust.
Installing new pads is done in the reverse order. It is important to properly tension the springs and securely fix the handbrake cable. Before installing the drum, check that the caliper piston is recessed deep enough, otherwise the drum simply will not fit onto the mechanism.
- 🛠️ Use a tool to compress the piston to avoid damaging the rubber seal.
- 🧹 Thoroughly clean the seats from rust and old dust.
- 🔧 Be sure to replace worn springs and clamps with new ones.
- 🔩 Check the free play of the parking brake cable after assembly.
What to do if the drum cannot be removed?
If the drum is stuck to the hub, do not try to remove it with a pry bar. Use a drum puller or gently heat it with a heat gun and then tap it with a rubber mallet. As a last resort, you can slightly loosen the hub bolt, but not completely, so as not to damage the threads.
After installing the new pads, be sure to press the brake pedal several times until you feel firmness. This is necessary so that the caliper pistons take their working position and the pads are pressed against the drum.
Main idea: Proper seating of new pads and checking the handbrake cable after replacement are critical to driving safety.
Adjustment nuances and possible problems
One of the common problems when replacing pads with Nissan Almera N16 is incorrect clearance adjustment. If the gap is too large, the brake pedal will travel too far, and if it is too small, the pads may rub against the drum constantly, causing overheating.
In some cases, new pads creak. This may be due to the fact that the friction layer has not yet rubbed into the drum, or due to the lack of lubrication at the points of contact of the metal elements (not on the working surface!). It is recommended to apply a special anti-squeak paste to the back of the pads and the points of contact with the piston.
Another problem is jamming of the caliper guides. If after replacement you feel that one of the rear wheels is hotter than the others, most likely the guide does not move freely. Disassemble the caliper, clean the guides of old grease and dirt, apply new high-temperature grease and reassemble.
Before installing the drum, check that the wheel rotates freely. If there is resistance, do not close the wheel until you find the cause - it could be a stuck piston or a stretched handbrake cable.
It is also worth paying attention to the condition of the brake drum itself. If it has deep grooves or cracks, it must be replaced or machined. Installing new pads on a worn drum will not give the desired result.
⚠️ Attention: If the brake pedal remains soft after replacing the pads, air may have entered the system. In this case, it is necessary to carry out the procedure of bleeding the brake system.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
How long do rear pads last on Nissan Almera N16?
The average resource of rear drum pads ranges from 50 to 80 thousand kilometers, depending on driving style and the quality of the parts used. Drum brakes wear out more slowly than disc brakes, but require regular inspection.
Is it possible to change pads on only one axle?
No, you must change the pads as a set on one axle (both rear wheels). Different degrees of wear or different friction properties of the pads can lead to uneven braking and skidding of the car.
Do I need to change the drum along with the pads?
Replacement of the drum is required only if it is critically worn, has deep grooves, cracks or deformation. In most cases, regrooving the drum or replacing just the pads is sufficient.
How to properly roll in new pads?
After replacement, avoid sharp braking in the first 200-300 kilometers. Allow the friction material to rub evenly against the surface of the drum under moderate loads.
Why do rear pads squeak after replacement?
Creaking can occur due to lack of lapping, dirt getting on the friction layer, or lack of lubrication on the metal parts of the pad. In rare cases, this may indicate poor quality parts.