Nissan Almera G15 is a popular sedan that is valued for its reliability and ease of maintenance. However, even this model has weaknesses, and one of them is suspension arms. Over time, they wear out, leading to poor handling, knocking noises, and uneven tire wear. In this article we will look at what levers are on Almera G15, how to diagnose them, when to change them and what nuances to take into account when replacing them.
Suspension feature Nissan Almera G15 (2013–2018) - classic scheme MacPherson front And semi-independent beam at the rear. The front levers play a key role here: they connect the hub to the body, and dampen vibrations through silent blocks and ball joints. The rear levers are less loaded, but their wear also affects comfort. If you notice that the car is “floating” at speed or a knocking noise when driving over bumps at low speeds (up to 20 km/h)Most likely the problem is in the levers.
Design and types of levers on Nissan Almera G15
Suspension Almera G15 includes two types of levers:
- 🔧 Front lower control arms — carry the main load, are attached to the subframe through silent blocks and to the hub through a ball joint. Original article:
54501-BM40A(right) and54500-BM40A(left). - 🔄 Rear trailing arms - part of a semi-independent beam, responsible for stabilizing the wheels. Original articles:
54040-BM400(right) and54041-BM400(left).
Front control arms Almera G15 — all-metal, with non-removable silent blocks (unlike some competitors, where the blocks can be replaced separately). This simplifies the design, but complicates repairs: when the silent block or ball wears out, you have to change the lever assembly. Rear levers, on the contrary, often “go” for 150–200 thousand km without replacement, if there have been no serious impacts.
It is important to understand that Almera G15 no upper control arms — their role is played by the shock absorber strut. This is a typical scheme for budget sedans, where priority is given to simplicity and low cost of maintenance. However, this design places increased demands on the condition of the lower arms: their wear directly affects wheel alignment and machine stability.
- Up to 50,000 km
- 50,000–100,000 km
- 100,000–150,000 km
- More than 150,000 km
Signs of faulty levers: when to sound the alarm
Wear on levers Almera G15 manifests itself gradually, but there are a number of “bells” that cannot be ignored:
- 🚗 Knocking in the suspension when driving over uneven surfaces (especially at low speeds) - a sign of wear on the silent blocks or ball joint.
- 🌀 Uneven tire wear (for example, the inner or outer edge is “eaten”) - a signal that the camber is broken due to play in the levers.
- 🔄 Pulling the car to the side when driving in a straight line - may indicate deformation of the lever or critical wear of the silent blocks.
- 🛑 Creaks when turning the steering wheel - often associated with wear of the ball joint of the front arm.
Particularly dangerous play in the ball joint. On Almera G15 it may appear as crunching sound when turning the wheels in place or “dips” in the steering. If you ignore this symptom, the support may break out of the lever while moving - this can lead to loss of control. It's easy to check the play: jack up the car, grab the wheel at the 9 and 3 o'clock position and swing it in a vertical plane. A play of more than 1–2 mm is a reason for urgent diagnosis.
⚠️ Attention: On Almera G15 With a mileage of more than 100 thousand km, knocking in the suspension is often attributed to shock absorbers. However, in 60% of cases, it is the levers that are to blame - their silent blocks become “tanned” and crack. Check them out first!
Another indirect sign - increased braking distance. Worn arms change the geometry of the suspension, which can cause the wheels to “walk” when braking, reducing efficiency. If you notice that the car is braking worse, but the pads and discs are fine, inspect the levers for deformations or cracks.
Diagnostics of levers: how to check yourself
To diagnose levers on Nissan Almera G15 it is not necessary to go to the service station. You can do most of the checks yourself with a jack and a pry bar. Here is a step-by-step algorithm:
- Visual inspection. Raise the car on a jack or drive it into a pit. Inspect the levers for:
- 🔍 Cracks or deformations of metal (especially in places where silent blocks are attached).
- 🟤 Tears or swelling of rubber silent blocks.
- 💧 Grease leaks from the ball joint (a sign of boot destruction).
To check the rear arms Almera G15 pay attention to the condition of the bushings. They are often “squeezed out” of their seats, which leads to wheel displacement and camber problems. If the bushings “walk” in the lever, they need to be replaced (unlike the front ones, rear levers are often repairable).
Inspect the levers for cracks and deformations|
Check play in silent blocks and balls |
Make sure the ball boots are intact |
Check rear bushings for misalignment|
Assess the condition of the fastening bolts (is there any corrosion) -->
⚠️ Attention: On Almera G15 the lever mounting bolts often “stick” to the silent blocks. If you are planning a replacement, treat them with a penetrating lubricant (for example, WD-40 or Liqui Moly Rostloser). Otherwise, you risk breaking the threads in the subframe.
Choice of levers: original vs analogues
When replacing levers with Nissan Almera G15 The owner is faced with a choice: to install original parts or analogues. Original levers guarantee 100% compatibility, but their price is steep: for example, the front lever assembly will cost 8,000–12,000 rubles (depending on dealer). Analogues are cheaper, but it is important not to run into a fake.
Here are proven analog manufacturers for Almera G15:
| Manufacturer | Article number (front arm) | Price, rub. | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Febi | 28305 |
4 500–5 500 | High-quality rubber silent blocks, but the ball ones are weaker than the original. |
| Moog | RK620667 |
6 000–7 000 | Reinforced ball joints, suitable for aggressive driving. |
| Sasic | 2005001 |
3 800–4 200 | A budget option, but the resource is lower (about 50 thousand km). |
| TRW | JTC1142 |
7 000–8 000 | Optimal price/quality ratio, close to the original. |
When choosing analogues, pay attention to rubber quality of silent blocks. On Almera G15 You often come across cheap levers with “oak” blocks that start knocking after 20–30 thousand km. Also check availability anthers on balls - some manufacturers skimp on them, which leads to premature wear.
If you buy levers not assembled, but separately silent blocks and balls, take them from one manufacturer. For example, Febi or TRW offer complete kits, which guarantees compatibility of parts.
Replacing levers: step-by-step instructions and nuances
Replacing front control arms with Nissan Almera G15 - a task of medium complexity. If you have tools and an inspection hole, even a novice mechanic can handle it. The main thing is to maintain consistency and not forget about wheel alignment after replacement. Here are the main steps:
- Preparation. Turn off the engine, put the car on the handbrake and place chocks under the rear wheels. Jack up the front end and remove the wheel.
- Disconnecting the ball joint. Unscrew the nut securing the support to the hub (you will need a 19mm wrench). Use a puller to press the pin out of the steering knuckle.
- Removing the lever. Unscrew the bolts securing the lever to the subframe (17mm wrench). If the bolts are stuck, do not try to tear them off - treat them WD-40 and wait 10–15 minutes.
- Installing a new lever. Install the lever in reverse order. Do not overtighten the mounting boltsuntil the car is lowered onto its wheels!
When replacing rear control arms Almera G15 the algorithm is similar, but there is a nuance: it is often required remove the beamto get to the mounting bolts. You can't do without a pit or a lift here. Also note stabilizer bushings — it is recommended to change them together with the levers, since they wear out at approximately the same rate.
What happens if you don’t do a wheel alignment after replacing the levers?
After replacing the arms, the suspension geometry changes, which leads to uneven tire wear (for example, “eating” the inner or outer edge). Also, the car can “drive” to the side, and the steering wheel will turn spontaneously when moving in a straight line. In the worst case scenario, improper camber impairs handling at high speeds, increasing the risk of skidding.
⚠️ Attention: On Almera G15 With an automatic transmission, when replacing the front levers, it is necessary to remove the drive shaft (axle shaft). If you do not secure it properly, you can damage the CV boot. Use special ties or wire to hang the shaft and prevent it from sagging.
The cost of replacing levers: prices in services and self-repair
Cost of replacing levers Nissan Almera G15 depends on the type of work and region. On average prices are as follows:
- 🔧 Replacing one front arm (with work): 3,000–5,000 rubles.
- 🔄 Replacing both front control arms (set + work): 12,000–18,000 rubles.
- 🚗 Replacing the rear arm (one): 2,500–4,000 rubles.
- 🔍 Suspension diagnostics (without repair): 500–1,000 rubles.
If you decide to change the levers yourself, the budget will be reduced by 50-70%. However, please note that to work you will need:
- 🔨 Ball joint remover (can be rented for 300–500 rubles).
- 🔧 A set of heads and keys (especially for 17 and 19).
- 🛠 Penetrating lubricant for bolts.
- 📏 Tool for wheel alignment (or budget 1,500–2,500 rubles per service station).
The savings on self-replacement are obvious, but there are risks. For example, if the lever mounting bolts are not tightened correctly, the silent blocks will quickly fail. Also, many people forget about tightening torques:
- Bolts securing the front arm to the subframe:
80–100 Nm. - Ball joint nut:
50–60 Nm. - Rear Arm Bolts:
70–90 Nm.
If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to entrust the replacement of levers to professionals. Installation errors can lead to failure of new parts after 10–20 thousand km.
Common mistakes when replacing levers and how to avoid them
Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes when working with levers Nissan Almera G15. Here are the most common:
- Ignoring ball anthers. If the boot is torn, dirt will get into the ball and it will fail after 5-10 thousand km. Always check the integrity of the boots before installation.
- Incorrect bolt tightening. If you tighten the lever mounting bolts by weight (without load), the silent blocks are deformed. Only tighten them after the vehicle is lowered onto the wheels.
- Savings on stabilizer bushings. Many people change the levers, but leave the old bushings. This leads to squeaks and knocks after 1–2 thousand km.
- No wheel alignment. Even if the car “goes straight”, do not ignore this procedure. Incorrect camber will accelerate wear on the new arms.
Another common mistake is buying levers without checking the article numbers. On Almera G15 There are two generations of levers (before and after 2016), which are visually almost the same, but have different seats for silent blocks. Always check with VIN-number or catalog Nissan.
Before purchasing levers, check their weight. Original parts weigh about 3.5–4 kg, and cheap analogues weigh 2.5–3 kg. The difference in mass usually indicates thinner metal and a lower resource.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions about Nissan Almera G15 levers
Is it possible to drive with knocking levers?
Short term - yes, but it is dangerous. A knocking noise usually indicates wear on the silent blocks or ball joint. In the worst case, the ball may “fly out” of the lever while moving, which will lead to loss of control. We recommend replacing the levers within 1-2 weeks after the knocking noise appears.
How often do you need to change levers on Almera G15?
Service life depends on operating conditions. On average:
- Front arms: 80,000–120,000 km.
- Rear arms: 150,000–200,000 km.
With aggressive driving or frequent trips on bad roads, the resource is reduced by 30–40%.
Is it possible to replace only the silent blocks and not the entire lever?
Theoretically, yes, but in practice it is impractical. On Almera G15 The silent blocks are pressed into the lever, and special equipment is needed to replace them. The cost of labor often exceeds the price of a new lever assembly. The exception is the rear control arms, where the bushings can be replaced separately.
Which levers are better: original or TRW?
TRW - one of the best analogues for Almera G15. They are not inferior in quality to the original, and sometimes even surpass it (for example, ball joints TRW more wear-resistant). If your budget is limited, you can take TRW or Moog. It makes sense to install the original only during warranty repairs.
Do I need to change the levers in pairs?
Not required, but recommended. If one lever is worn out, the second one is usually not far gone. Replacing them in pairs ensures equal suspension stiffness on both sides, which improves handling. The exception is if the second lever is in perfect condition (check it with diagnostics).