Crossover suspension Nissan Murano the second generation (Z51 body) is known for its comfort, but over time, chassis elements inevitably wear out. One of the most loaded parts here is the front lever, which takes on impacts from uneven road surfaces and lateral loads when cornering.
Many owners ignore a slight knock or vibration in the steering wheel, attributing it to poor road quality, until the problem develops into a serious breakdown that threatens traffic safety. Understanding the Design Murano Z51 lever and timely replacement of worn components is the key to maintaining vehicle controllability.
In this article, we will look in detail at how to identify a malfunction, which parts are best to choose for replacement, and how to carry out repairs correctly to avoid problems in the future.
Design features of the Murano Z51 front arm
Front suspension Nissan Murano The Z51 is built using a Double Wishbone design. This engineering solution provides excellent stability at high speeds and comfort when driving over uneven surfaces. Each lever is attached to the body through massive silent blocks, and to the hub through a ball joint.
Particular attention should be paid to the material used. The levers are made of high-strength steel, but the critical element is silent blocks. The rubber from which they are made loses elasticity over time, cracks and is destroyed under the influence of reagents and temperature changes. It is the destruction of rubber-metal hinges that is the most common reason for replacing the lever assembly.
The ball joint is also integrated into the design. Unlike some models, where it changes separately, on Murano Z51 If there is severe wear, you often have to replace the entire lever, although there are also repair kits for experienced craftsmen. Suspension geometry is extremely sensitive to arm deformation, so even a minor dent can lead to complex wheel alignment adjustments.
Don't forget about the mounting bolts. They have a special coating and often stick to the body due to corrosion. When dismantling, it is important to be extremely careful not to strip the threads in the spar, since restoring this unit will require serious financial investments.
Wear symptoms and chassis diagnostics
The first signs of faulty levers usually appear between 80 and 120 thousand kilometers, although aggressive driving can shorten this period. The most obvious signal is a knock or thud in the front of the car when driving over bumps, speed bumps or potholes. The sound is often heard from only one side, making it easier to localize the problem.
The second alarming symptom is steering wheel vibration at certain speeds. If the steering wheel “beats” when accelerating or braking, this may indicate play in the ball joint or destruction of the silent block. In such cases, car control becomes less precise, and the response to steering wheel turns is delayed.
- 🚗 Creaking or crackling of rubber when turning the steering wheel in place or at low speeds.
- 🚗 Uneven tire wear (especially the inner edge) for no apparent reason.
- 🚗 The car “steers” to the side when driving in a straight line, even after adjusting the wheel alignment.
- 🚗 The appearance of play in the wheel when rocking it with your hands (up and down and left and right).
For an accurate diagnosis, you need to drive up to an inspection pit or lift. A visual inspection can detect cracks on the rubber bushings, grease leaks from the ball joint, or traces of corrosion on the metal part of the lever. However, many defects are hidden from view and are visible only under load.
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to diagnose lever wear by simply rocking the wheel with your hands while the car is stationary without hanging it. Under load, the play may appear differently, and you may miss a critical problem that will cause the wheel to come off while driving.
If you hear suspicious sounds, but visually everything looks fine, use a pry bar to check for play. By lifting the lever from bottom to top, you can see how the silent block moves inside the seat. Any displacement of the metal relative to the rubber or visible tears in the rubber indicate the need for replacement.
- Up to 100,000 km
- 100,000 - 150,000 km
- 150,000 - 200,000 km
- More than 200,000 km
Selection of spare parts: original or analogue?
When choosing a lever for Nissan Murano Z51 The car owner is faced with a dilemma: buy an expensive original unit or save on a high-quality analogue. Nissan's original OEM control arm guarantees perfect geometry and long-lasting rubber bushings, but its price often deters buyers.
There are proven suspension brands on the market that offer worthy alternatives. Companies like Lemförder, TRW or Moog often produce levers that are equal in quality to the original, and sometimes even surpass it due to improved materials. However, it is important to avoid cheap Chinese copies that may not even last one winter season.
When choosing an analogue, be sure to check that the kit contains new fastening bolts and lock washers. Manufacturers often provide levers with a full set of fasteners, which simplifies installation. Missing bolts can be a problem, as the old bolts may not fit in length or thread after replacing the silent block.
- 🔧 Check for a quality certificate from the seller of the analog part.
- 🔧 Compare the geometry of the lever with the original (dimensions, location of holes).
- 🔧 Please note the packaging: original parts have Nissan branding.
It is worth noting that some car owners prefer to change not the lever assembly, but the silent blocks and ball joints separately. It is cheaper, but requires special press and skills. For most owners, the optimal solution is to replace the lever assembly, which ensures correct assembly of the components.
Specifications and Parts Comparison
To select the correct spare part, you need to know the exact characteristics of the unit. Below is a table comparing the main parameters of the original lever and popular analogues available on the market.
| Part type | Original (Nissan) | Analogue (Lemförder) | Analogue (CTR) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Part number | 54500-ZA00A | 30308 | 20002 |
| Lever material | Steel, hot stamping | Steel, hot stamping | Steel, stamping |
| Silent block type | Rubber, pressed | Rubber, pressed | Rubber, glued |
| Resource (km) | 120 000+ | 100 000 - 120 000 | 80 000 - 100 000 |
| Cost (conditionally) | High | Average | Low |
Please note the part number 54500-ZA00A - This is the base part number for the front lower control arm. Depending on the year of manufacture and configuration, the numbers may vary slightly, so always check the vehicle’s VIN before purchasing. The use of incompatible parts may disrupt the suspension geometry.
⚠️ Attention: Do not buy levers “without a brand” at dealerships or in unverified online stores. Under the guise of a high-quality analogue, they often sell counterfeits with thin metal, which deforms at the first serious hole.
Why are original levers so expensive?
Genuine Nissan parts undergo strict quality control and durability testing. Their production uses special grades of steel and rubber that are resistant to aggressive environments. The high price also includes logistics and manufacturer's warranty, which is not available for cheap analogues.
Instructions for replacing the lever yourself
Replacing a lever is a labor-intensive process that requires special tools and a lift. If you do not have a garage with a pit and a set of keys, it is better to entrust the work to professionals. However, if you have experience and a desire to save money, you can perform the replacement yourself, following a strict sequence of actions.
The first step is to lift the car and remove the wheel. Unscrew the bolts securing the lever to the body and to the steering knuckle. It is important to remember here that the bolts can be over-tightened and become stuck. Use a quality wrench and, if necessary, penetrating lubricant WD-40 or equivalent, but do not use it immediately before tightening new bolts.
☑️ Preparing to replace the lever
Remove the arm carefully so as not to damage the ABS sensor wiring or other suspension components. Install the new lever by first lubricating the bolt threads with graphite grease or copper paste. Tighten the bolts only after the car is lowered to the ground to prevent the silent blocks from twisting under load.
- 🔩 Use a torque wrench to accurately tighten the bolts.
- 🔩 Do not try to “finish off” the nuts with a hammer if they do not work - use heat or a hydraulic puller.
- 🔩 Check the condition of the ball joint boot before final assembly.
After installing a new lever, it is necessary to do a wheel alignment. Without this procedure, the car will drive unstably and the tires will wear unevenly. The procedure for adjusting wheel alignment angles should be carried out on a professional stand.
⚠️ Attention: Tightening the bolts securing the lever to the body while suspended (when the wheel is hanging in the air) is unacceptable! This will lead to premature destruction of the silent blocks, since the rubber will work in a twisted state.
The main idea: Replacing the lever requires precise adherence to the tightening torque of the bolts and mandatory wheel alignment adjustment after repair. Ignoring these rules will negate all efforts to replace the part.
Frequent errors and operating tips
Many owners Nissan Murano Z51 make mistakes that shorten the life of the new suspension. One of the most common is ignoring the condition of the anthers. If the ball joint or tie rod boot is torn, dirt and moisture can get inside, destroying the lubricant. This leads to rapid wear of even a new lever.
It is also important to monitor the condition of other suspension elements. Often a replacement arm is required because the owner has been driving for a long time with a worn shock absorber or stabilizer link. Uneven loads are transferred to the lever, causing its deformation or accelerated wear of the silent blocks.
Regular washing of the suspension in winter and cleaning of reagents will extend the life of the rubber elements. You should not skimp on cleaning the underbody of your car, especially in regions with harsh climates. Dirt and salt are the main enemies of metal and rubber.
Before winter, be sure to check the condition of all suspension boots and replace them if necessary. This is a cheap preventive measure that will save expensive levers from rapid failure due to abrasive dust and moisture.
If you often drive on bad roads, it is recommended to shorten the chassis diagnostic intervals. Instead of the standard 15,000 km, inspect the suspension every 10,000 km. Early identification of problems will allow you to avoid expensive repairs and accidents on the road.
What is the service life of the Murano Z51 levers?
On average, original levers last from 100,000 to 150,000 km. However, when driving on bad roads or in an aggressive style, wear may occur as early as 70,000 km.
Is it possible to change the lever on only one side?
Technically possible, but not recommended. If one lever is worn out, it means that the operating conditions were difficult and the second lever will soon fail. It is better to change them in pairs to maintain the balance of the suspension.
Do I need to do a wheel alignment after replacement?
Absolutely necessary. Any intervention in the suspension geometry violates the wheel alignment angles. Without alignment adjustments, the vehicle will pull to one side and the tires will wear unevenly.
What to do if the bolts are stuck?
Use penetrating lubricant a day before starting work. When unscrewing, use an impact wrench or heat the thread (if the design allows). Under no circumstances try to remove the bolt with excessive force, so as not to damage the spar.
Is it possible to drive with a worn lever?
Strongly not recommended. A worn control arm can cause loss of control, especially at high speeds or when cornering. In the worst case, this can lead to a wheel coming off or an accident.