Rear pad repair kit for Nissan Almera Classic: selection, replacement and nuances

Rear brake pads on Nissan Almera Classic (B10, 2006–2012) is a consumable that requires attention every 30–50 thousand km. Their wear directly affects safety: an extended braking distance, vibrations during braking or squeaking are the first signals that it’s time to change the set. However, not all repair kits are the same: original parts from Nissan are more expensive than analogs, but guarantee compatibility with the ABS system and electronic brake force distribution (EBD). In this article, we will look at how to choose a high-quality repair kit, avoid counterfeits, and carry out the replacement yourself without errors.

Feature Almera Classic — rear drum brakes on basic versions (1.5 l, K9K) and disc on the top ones (1.6 l, HR16DE). This means that repair kits are not interchangeable: drum pads require pads with friction linings and springs, while disc pads require only pads with guides. We will dwell in detail on both options, indicate the article numbers of original and proven analogues, and also reveal typical replacement errors that lead to uneven wear or jamming of mechanisms.

What rear pads are on the Nissan Almera Classic: types and differences

On Almera Classic Two types of rear brake systems were installed depending on the configuration and year of manufacture:

• 🔧 Drum brakes - on most cars with an engine K9K (1.5 dCi, 82 hp). The pads here work inside the drum, in contact with its inner surface. The main advantage is the simplicity of the design and low cost of repair, the disadvantage is lower braking efficiency and a tendency to overheat.
• 💿 Disc brakes - on versions with motor HR16DE (1.6 l, 107 hp) and some modifications 2010–2012. Discs provide better cooling and braking stability, but require more frequent pad replacement due to their open design.

To accurately determine the type of brakes on your car, just look under the rear wheel: if a metal drum is visible, it’s a drum system; if it’s a disc with a caliper, it’s a disc system. On Almera Classic 2008–2009 with engine K9K Sometimes there are disc brakes at the rear - this is rare, but it is necessary to check.

Key difference between repair kits:

• 📦 For drum brakes, the kit includes 4 pads, tension springs, spacers and sometimes a wheel bearing (if integrated into the drum).
• 📦 For disk drives - only 2 pads (on the side) + caliper guides (if replacement is required).

Original articles and analogues: what to choose for replacement

Original spare parts from Nissan guarantee compatibility with ABS and EBD, but their price is often inflated. Below is a table with articles and proven analogues for both types of brakes:

Brake type	Original article	Analogs (brand + article)	Notes
Drums	40520-4M000 (set)	TRW GDB1436 Brembo P69020 Ferodo FSB620	The kit includes springs and spacers. TRW — the best price/quality balance.
Disk	40520-4M010 (pads)	Akebono ACT907A Textar 2465601 Bosch 0986494620	Akebono - original supplier for Nissan. Bosch often counterfeited.
Drum (bearing)	40530-4M000	SKF VKB3404	Required when replacing a drum or hub play.

When choosing analogues, pay attention to ECE R90 certification is a European safety standard for brake pads. Cheap non-certified kits (for example, from LPR or Fenox) may have low quality friction material, which leads to:

• ⚠️ Increased wear of the drum/disc (due to abrasive particles in the pads).
• ⚠️ Creaking or whistling when braking (poor mixture composition).
• ⚠️ Brake overheating (low heat resistance of the material).

When to change rear pads: signs of wear and diagnostics

The manufacturer recommends checking the condition of the rear pads every 15 thousand km, but the actual service life depends on driving style and operating conditions. Here are the key signs that it’s time to change the repair kit:

• 🚨 Creaking or whistling when braking - indicates wear of the friction material to the metal base.
• 🚨 Increased braking distance — the pads do not provide sufficient friction.
• 🚨 Vibration or beat in the brake pedal - may indicate deformation of the drum/disc or uneven wear of the pads.
• 🚨 ABS light came on — if the sensor detects unstable operation of the rear brakes.

For an accurate diagnosis:

1. Remove the rear wheel and inspect the brake mechanism:
   • For drums brakes: minimum friction layer thickness - 1.5 mm. If less, replacement is required.
   • For disk brakes: pad thickness must be at least 2–3 mm (indicated on the block body).

Check the drum or disc play - if there is any, the hub bearing may be worn.

Assess the condition of the springs and spacers (for drum brakes) - they should not be rusty or deformed.

What happens if you don't change the pads on time?

Ignoring rear pad wear leads to:

- Damage to the drum/disc (replacing them will cost 3–5 times more than a repair kit).

- Overheating of the brake fluid and loss of its properties (you will have to bleed the system).

- ABS or EBD failure due to uneven wheel braking.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing rear pads

Replacing rear pads with Almera Classic requires care, especially when it comes to drum brakes with their complex spring system. Below are universal instructions taking into account the nuances for both types of brakes.

Tools and preparation

You will need:

• 🔧 Jack and stops (or lift).
• 🔧 Keys on 10, 12, 14 And 17.
• 🔧 Pliers and a flat blade screwdriver.
• 🔧 Lubricant for caliper guides (for example, TRW PFG110).
• 🔧 WD-40 or similar cleaner.
• 🔧 Torque wrench (optional, for tightening with the correct torque).

Loosen the wheel nuts on the jack|Raise the car and install stops|Clean the brake mechanism from dirt|Prepare a new repair kit and tools-->

Replacing drum pads

Algorithm for Almera Classic with drum brakes:

1. Remove the wheel and unscrew the drum guide pins (2 bolts on 12).
2. Spray WD-40 around the perimeter of the drum and carefully remove it. If it doesn’t work, use a puller or tap evenly with a hammer through a wooden spacer.
3. Disconnect the springs and spacer bars (remember their location!). For convenience, take a photo of the mechanism before disassembling.
4. Remove the old pads and clean the seats from rust and dirt.
5. Install new pads, observing the order of the springs. Important: Upper and lower springs are not interchangeable!
6. Adjust the gap between the pads and the drum using the eccentric mechanism (located on the brake shield).
7. Reinstall the drum and tighten the studs to torque. 8–10 Nm.

Replacing disc pads

For disc brakes the process is simpler:

1. Unscrew the caliper (2 bolts on 14) and hang it on a wire so as not to damage the hose.
2. Remove the old pads and clean the caliper guides of old grease.
3. Install new pads, first applying a thin layer of lubricant to their back side (not to the friction material!).
4. Press the caliper piston back using sliding pliers (or a special tool).
5. Reinstall the caliper and tighten the bolts to torque. 25–30 Nm.

Typical replacement mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced car owners make mistakes that lead to premature pad wear or brake system malfunctions. Here are the most common:

• ❌ Incorrect spring installation (on drum brakes) - leads to jamming of the pads or their uneven wear. ⚠️ Attention: If after replacement the wheel rotates with force, check that the spring mechanism is assembled correctly.
• ❌ Using incompatible lubricant - for example, graphite instead of high-temperature. This causes corrosion of the caliper guides. Only specialized lubricants are allowed (for example, Slipkote 220-R DBC).
• ❌ Failure to roll brakes after replacement — if you do not press the pedal several times, the caliper pistons will not move into the working position, and the brakes will be “wobbly.”
• ❌ Ignoring drum/disc status - if their surface has deep grooves (more than 1 mm), the pads will wear out quickly. In this case, a groove or replacement of the disk/drum is required.

Another common problem is new pads squeak. It can occur for two reasons:

1. Low quality friction material (typical of cheap analogues). The solution is to replace it with certified pads.
2. No anti-squeak plates. On many pads (for example, Ferodo or Akebono) they come included - don’t forget to install!

1. Uniform wear of the pads on both wheels.

2. Condition of the brake hoses (possible air leaks).

3. Tire pressure (a difference of more than 0.2 bar may affect braking).-->

Cost of work and savings: is it worth changing it yourself?

The cost of replacing rear pads at a service center depends on the type of brakes and region:

Type of work	Cost (RUB)	Lead time
Replacing drum pads (1 axle)	1 500–2 500	1–1.5 hours
Replacing disc pads (1 axle)	1 200–2 000	40–60 minutes
Drum/disc groove	800–1,500 (for 1 piece)	30–40 minutes
Replacing the brake cylinder (if leaking)	2 000–3 500	1.5–2 hours

Replacement yourself saves money 1,000–2,500 rub., but requires:

• 🔧 Skills in working with tools (especially for drum brakes).
• 🔧 Be careful when assembling (mistakes lead to expensive repairs).
• 🔧 The presence of an inspection hole or a lift (a jack is less convenient).

If you've never changed pads before, start with disc brakes - they're easier to maintain. Drums require experience due to the complex system of springs and adjustments.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about rear pads Nissan Almera Classic

Can the pads be placed on only one side?

No! The pads are always replaced in pairs (on both rear wheels). Otherwise, the braking forces will be distributed unevenly, which will lead to skidding during braking and accelerated wear of the mechanisms.

How often should you check your rear brakes?

Every 15 thousand km or once a year - whichever comes first. Also, a check is required if squeaks, vibrations appear or the braking distance increases.

What should I do if the ABS light comes on after replacing the pads?

First check:

1. Correct installation of the pads (especially for drum brakes - the ABS sensor can be triggered by metal shavings).
2. Condition of the ABS sensor on the hub (possibly damaged when removing the drum).
3. Brake fluid level (if the caliper piston is pressed in, it may drop).

If the light does not go out, reset the error using a scanner (for example, ELM327).

Which pads are better - original or analogues?

Original pads (Nissan or Akebono) are optimal in terms of price/quality ratio. Among analogues we recommend TRW or Ferodo — they are certified and are not inferior to the original. Cheap brands (LPR, Fenox) are risky due to the low quality of the friction material.

Do I need to bleed the brakes after replacing the rear pads?

Pumping is only needed if:

• You opened a hydraulic line (for example, removed a brake cylinder).
• The brake fluid is dark or contains visible air bubbles.
• The brake pedal became "soft" after replacement.

In other cases, it is enough to press the pedal several times to force the caliper pistons into place.