Rear drum brakes on Nissan Almera Classic B10 (2006–2012) - a unit that requires attention no less often than the disc mechanisms on the front axle. Despite the simplicity of the design, wear on the pads, springs and cylinders leads to reduced braking efficiency, squeaking and even wheel jamming. Unlike front brakes, where diagnosis often comes down to a visual inspection, drum mechanisms “hide” problems until the last moment - until the steering wheel begins to beat or the lamp comes on ABS.

In this article we will figure out how to choose the right rear drum brake repair kit for Almera Classic B10, what article numbers of original and analog parts exist, and we will also give step-by-step instructions for replacement, taking into account typical errors. We will pay special attention to nuances that are not covered in standard manuals - for example, how to avoid misalignment of the pads after installation or why new parts can creak during the first 200 km.

When is it necessary to replace the rear brake repair kit?

Drum brakes Nissan Almera Classic B10 designed for a mileage of 60–100 thousand km, but the actual service life depends on driving style, quality of parts and operating conditions. Here are the key signs that it’s time to change the repair kit:

  • 🔊 Creaking or whistling when braking - indicates wear of the friction layer of the pads or dirt getting between the drum and the linings.
  • 🚗 Car withdrawal to the side when pressing the brake pedal - a signal of uneven wear of the pads or a jammed working cylinder.
  • 🔥 Overheating of the rear wheels after a trip - this indicates that the mechanism is jammed (rusty springs or a deformed drum are often to blame).
  • 🛑 Increased brake pedal travel - a sign of pad wear or brake fluid leakage from the cylinder.

Another indirect symptom - the appearance of metal shavings on the magnets of the rear wheel ABS sensor. This happens when the friction layer of the pads wears down to the base and the metal begins to scratch the drum. If you ignore the problem, you will have to change not only the repair kit, but also the drum itself (and this will add 3–5 thousand rubles to the repair).

⚠️ Attention: On Almera Classic B10 With a mileage of more than 150 thousand km, deformation of the brake drum due to overheating is common. Before replacing the pads, be sure to check the drum runout with an indicator - if it exceeds 0.15 mm, the part must be replaced or re-grooved.
📊 How often do you check the condition of your rear brakes?
  • Every 20 thousand km
  • Only when squeaks appear
  • Once a year before maintenance
  • Never checked

Article numbers of repair kits: original vs analogues

Original rear brake repair kit for Nissan Almera Classic B10 (body B10, engines 1.5 And 1.6) supplied under article number 40520-9M500 (for one wheel). The kit includes:

  • 🔧 Two brake pads with friction linings
  • 🌀 Return springs (upper and lower)
  • 🔄 Spacer bar
  • 🛢️ Slave cylinder (in some kits)

The cost of the original is from 3,500 to 5,000 rubles per set for one wheel. However, many owners choose analogues that are 30–50% cheaper. The table below shows proven brands with article numbers and average prices (for 2026):

Brand Article Kit contents Price for 1 wheel, ₽ Features
Nissan (original) 40520-9M500 Pads + springs + bar 3 500–5 000 2 year warranty, fully compatible
ABS 34052 Pads + springs 1 800–2 200 Budget option, soft pads
Ferodo FDB1816 Pads + springs + lubricant 2 500–3 000 Improved friction properties, low drum wear
TRW GDB1816 Pads + springs + cylinder 3 200–3 800 All consumables included, including cylinder
Sangsin SP1816 Pads + springs 2 000–2 400 Korean quality, average resource

When choosing an analogue, pay attention to kit contents: some brands (eg ABS) do not include a spacer bar, which will have to be purchased separately (item no. 40528-9M500). Also check if the set includes new springs - old ones often rust and lose elasticity, which leads to uneven fit of the pads.

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If you buy a repair kit without a working cylinder, be sure to check the condition of the old one: leaks of brake fluid or corrosion on the piston are a reason for replacement (original article number: 40520-9M50A).

Preparing for replacement: tools and safety precautions

To replace the rear brake repair kit with Almera Classic B10 you will need:

  • 🔧 Set of sockets and keys (10–17 mm)
  • 🔨 Hammer and wooden spacer (for removing the drum)
  • 🔗 Pliers and a flat blade screwdriver
  • 🧴Brake fluid DOT-4 (for pumping)
  • 🧽 Brake cleaner (BRAKE CLEANER)
  • 🛠️ Lubricant for guides (Molykote G-3401 or analogues)

Before starting work:

  1. Place the car on a level surface and secure the front wheels with chocks.
  2. Loosen the rear wheel bolts, but do not remove it completely.
  3. Raise the rear of the car with a jack and install a safety stand.
  4. Remove the wheel and clean the brake mechanism from dirt with a wire brush.
⚠️ Attention: Never use WD-40 or other penetrating lubricants to clean your brakes! They leave an oil film that reduces braking efficiency. Only specialized BRAKE CLEANER!

Loosen the wheel bolts|Raise the car on a jack and install a stand|Remove the wheel and clean the mechanism|Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir (it may leak when replacing the cylinder!)-->

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the repair kit

The process of replacing pads and springs Almera Classic B10 takes 1.5–2 hours per wheel (excluding pumping the brakes). Follow the algorithm:

  1. Removing the brake drum:

    Unscrew the guide pins (if any) or carefully knock the drum with a hammer through the wooden spacer. If the drum cannot be removed, check whether the pads are stuck - in this case, you will need to loosen the adjusting mechanism through a special window in the shield.

  2. Removing old pads:

    Remove the upper and lower springs with pliers, then the spacer bar. The pads should come out of the grooves freely. If they are “stuck”, do not pull by force - treat the connection BRAKE CLEANER and wait 5-10 minutes.

  3. Installing a new repair kit:

    Apply a thin layer of lubricant Molykote G-3401 at the points of contact between the pads and the brake shield. Install new pads, springs and spacer in reverse order. Make sure handbrake cable not twisted and moves freely in the shell.

  4. Gap adjustment:

    Turn the adjusting wheel (accessible through the window in the shield) until the shoes stop in the drum, then turn it back 5-7 clicks. This will provide optimal clearance.

  5. Drum installation:

    Place the drum on the hub and secure it with guide pins (if provided by the design). Turn the drum by hand - it should rotate without jamming.

After replacement on both wheels be sure to bleed the brake system, even if the cylinders were not changed. To do this:

  1. Place a transparent hose onto the rear brake bleeder fitting and lower the other end into a container with brake fluid.
  2. Have an assistant press the brake pedal 3-4 times and hold it down.
  3. Unscrew the fitting ½ turn - liquid with air bubbles should come out.
  4. Tighten the fitting and repeat the procedure until bubbles no longer appear in the hose.
What to do if after replacing the pads the brakes are “wobbly”?

If the pedal remains soft after bleeding, check:

1) Tightness of fittings and tubes (are there any leaks).

2) The liquid level in the tank (when pumping, it may drop to a minimum).

3) Condition of the main brake cylinder (wear of seals).

If the problem persists, air may have entered the system through a crack in the hose or a faulty cylinder.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced car owners make mistakes when replacing rear drum brakes. Here are the most common:

  • 🔧 Incorrect spring installation: If the upper or lower spring is twisted, the pads will jam. Check their position according to the diagram from the instructions for the repair kit.
  • 🛢️ Ignoring the slave cylinder: If the cylinder piston is corroded or leaking, the new pads will quickly wear out due to uneven pressure. Replacing the cylinder (part number 40520-9M50A) will cost less than repeated repairs after 10 thousand km.
  • 🔥 Lack of lubrication: Without lubrication Molykote At the contact points, the pads will creak and wear out faster. Apply the lubricant in a thin layer, avoiding contact with the friction material!
  • 🔄 Incorrect adjustment: If you do not turn the adjusting wheel back 5-7 clicks, the drum will not fit into place or will jam.

Critical error: using non-original springs with a different force. For example, springs from Sangsin softer than TRW, which leads to “floating” of the brake pedal. Always buy a repair kit from the same brand!

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After replacing the repair kit, avoid sharp braking for the first 200 km - the new pads should rub into the drum. If the squeak does not go away longer, check the quality of the spring installation and lubrication of the contact points.

Cost of work in the service vs independent replacement

In car services for replacing the rear brake repair kit with Almera Classic B10 they charge from 1,500 to 3,000 rubles for one wheel (excluding the cost of parts). The table below compares the costs of self-repair and contacting service:

Item On your own Service (economy) Service (premium)
Repair kit (2 wheels) 4 000–8 000 ₽ 4 000–8 000 ₽ 6,000–12,000 ₽ (original)
Slave cylinder (if needed) 1 200–2 500 ₽ 1 500–3 000 ₽ 2 500–4 000 ₽
Work (2 wheels) 0 ₽ 3 000–5 000 ₽ 5 000–8 000 ₽
Bleeding the brakes 0 ₽ 500–1 000 ₽ 1 000–1 500 ₽
Total: 5 200–10 500 ₽ 9 000–17 000 ₽ 14 500–25 500 ₽

Self-replacement is 40–60% more profitable, but requires time and accuracy. If you have never worked on the brake system, it is better to trust the professionals - mistakes when repairing brakes can cost your life.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about rear brake repair kits

Is it possible to replace only the pads and leave the old springs?

Technically possible, but not recommended. Old springs lose elasticity due to corrosion, which leads to uneven wear on new pads. If budget is limited, at least replace spacer bar (article 40528-9M500) - it is often deformed.

How often should the pad guides be lubricated?

Lubricant Molykote G-3401 or its analogues are applied every time a repair kit is replaced. During operation, nothing needs to be lubricated - it is enough to clean the mechanism of dirt once every 20 thousand km.

Why do the brakes squeak after replacing the pads?

Creaking in the first 200 km is normal (breaking in of new linings). If the sound persists for longer, check:

  • Quality of installation of springs (should not touch the drum).
  • Lack of lubrication on the friction layer of the pads.
  • Condition of the drum (possible grooves or deformation).

Is it possible to grind the drum instead of replacing it?

Yes, if its thickness does not become smaller after grooving 18.5 mm (minimum permissible value for Almera Classic B10). The cost of grooving is 800–1,500 rubles per drum. If the thickness is less than normal, the part must be replaced (original article number: 40500-9M500).

Do I need to adjust the handbrake after replacing the pads?

Yes, definitely! New pads are thicker than worn ones, so the handbrake cable needs to be tightened. To do this:

  1. Raise the handbrake lever 2–3 clicks.
  2. Tighten the adjustment nut on the cable equalizer (under the machine, near the rear beam).
  3. Check that the rear wheels lock with 4-5 clicks of the lever.