How to disassemble Nissan Almera Classic: instructions from A to Z with photos and warnings

Nissan Almera Classic - one of the most popular foreign cars on the secondary market of the CIS, known for its reliability and ease of repair. However, even this “indestructible” car sooner or later needs a deep disassembly: be it a major overhaul of the engine, replacement of body parts or modernization of the interior. Unlike modern machines with plastic latches and hidden bolts, dismantling Almera Classic requires knowledge of specific nuances - from the location of “secret” fasteners to the sequence of dismantling components, so as not to damage fragile parts.

This article is not just a list of actions, but practical guide with an emphasis on common mistakes, which even experienced masters admit. We will analyze the disassembly by system: from the interior and electronics to the power unit and suspension, paying attention unique “diseases” of the Almera Classic, such as corrosion of the A-pillar fasteners or the fragility of the plastic clips of the instrument panel after 2008. All instructions are accompanied by photographs of key steps and bolt size charts, so you don't have to guess which tool to use.

Preparing for disassembly: tools and conditions

Before you begin, make sure you have complete set of tools - without it, disassembly will turn into torture. Nissan Almera Classic (especially models before 2010) are famous for “stubborn” bolts that often stick or have non-standard heads. Here is the minimum kit:

• 🔧 A set of heads and socket wrenches (necessarily with dimensions 10 mm, 12 mm, 14 mm And 17 mm - they are used most often).
• 🔨 Impact screwdriver or pneumatic wrench for unscrewing rusty fasteners (especially important for cars from the northern regions).
• 🔩 Remover of retaining rings and ball joints (useful for disassembling the suspension).
• 🔧 Plastic spatulas for dismantling the interior trim - metal tools will damage the clips!
• 📸 A camera or smartphone to record the location of wires and small parts (this will save hours on reassembly).

Also prepare your workspace:

• 🚗 Lift or inspection hole (for work with suspension and transmission).
• 📦 Organizers for hardware - in Almera Classic There are a huge number of bolts of different sizes, and it is easy to confuse them.
• 🧴 WD-40 or similar rust solvent (treat all threaded connections a day before disassembly).

⚠️ Attention: If you are disassembling the machine for engine overhaul, be sure to drain all technical fluids in advance - oil, antifreeze, brake fluid. In models with automatic transmission (RE4F03A) draining the oil from the box requires a special tool to unscrew the pan!

Disassembling the interior: removing the instrument panel and trim

Salon Almera Classic It is relatively easy to disassemble, but there are several pitfalls here. The main problem is fragile plastic clips, which break during careless dismantling. Start from the top:

1. Remove the sun visors (they are secured with two bolts under the decorative plugs).
2. Unscrew the steering column mounting bolts (they are hidden under the plastic casing - you need to carefully pry it off with a spatula).
3. Remove the center console, starting with the climate control unit (disconnect all connectors, having first photographed their location!).

Pay special attention to the instrument panel: in models 2006–2012 it is mounted on 4 bolts (two on top and two on bottom), but often masters forget about hidden bolt under the steering column. If you do not unscrew it, the panel may break when removed.

Salon element	Number of fasteners	Fastener type	Notes
Instrument panel	4 bolts + 2 clips	M6 bolts, plastic clips	Hidden bolt under the steering column!
Center console	6 bolts + 4 latches	M5 bolts, metal latches	Disconnect the backlight connector before removing
Door trim	8 clips + 2 bolts	Plastic clips, M5 bolts	The clips are fragile - heat them with a hairdryer before removing them

⚠️ Attention: In cars with heated seats do not pull the wires when dismantling the trim - they often stick to the body and can come off!

Disconnect the negative battery terminal

Take photos of the location of all connectors

Check for hidden bolts under decorative caps

Prepare a box for hardware and label them by zone-->

Engine dismantling: step-by-step instructions with nuances

Removing the engine Nissan Almera Classic (especially with a motor QG15DE or QG18DE) is not a task for beginners. The main difficulty is cramped engine compartment, which requires preliminary dismantling of several components. Start with preparation:

• 🔧 Drain all liquids (oil, antifreeze, brake fluid).
• 🔩 Disconnect the battery and remove the radiator (it is attached with 4 bolts, but often sticks to the frame).
• 🚗 Jack up the car and remove the front wheels - this will give access to the subframe.
• 🔧 Disconnect all sensors (mass air flow sensor, crankshaft sensor, lambda probe) and label the connectors.

Next, proceed to unscrew the engine mounts. B Almera Classic there are only 4 of them:

- Two bolts on the pads (size 17 mm).

- One nut on the gearbox (size 19 mm).

- One bolt on the generator bracket (size 14 mm).

The most difficult moment - disconnecting the gearbox. In manual transmissions (RS5F31A) you first need to remove the shift lever, and in automatic transmissions (RE4F03A) — disable the torque converter. Use a special puller to separate the engine and gearbox to avoid damaging the flywheel.

What happens if you don't drain the antifreeze before removing the engine?

When the engine is tilted, antifreeze will spill onto the electrical wiring and can cause a short circuit, especially if it gets into the control unit (ECU). In the worst case, this will lead to sensor failure or even fire.

To remove the engine, use powerful winch or crane with a load capacity of at least 300 kg. Hang the engine by the special eyes on the cylinder head - if you attach it to other points, you can bend the manifold or damage the sump.

Suspension disassembly: struts, arms and hubs

Suspension Nissan Almera Classic built according to the classical scheme McPherson front and multi-lever behind. Front suspension disassembly is usually required to replace struts, support bearings or ball joints. Start by removing the wheel and brake disc.

Pay special attention shock absorber struts — their upper supports often stick to the body. To avoid problems:

1. Treat bolt threads with WD-40 12 to 24 hours before disassembly.
2. Use special puller for retaining rings on ball joints (it is almost impossible to remove them manually).
3. When unscrewing the strut nut be sure to hold the rod with a wrench, otherwise it will turn and damage the seal.

The most vulnerable element in the rear suspension is lever silent blocks. They wear out by 100–120 thousand km and require replacement. To press them out, use a puller or a vice with mandrels - do not knock them out with a hammer, as this will deform the seats.

Suspension element	Service life (thousand km)	Typical faults	Replacement tool
Front struts	80–100	Oil leak, support bearing knocking	Spring puller, socket wrenches
Ball joints	60–80	Backlash, boot rupture	Ball puller, hammer
Rear silent blocks	100–120	Rubber cracks, play	Press or puller

⚠️ Attention: When disassembling the rear suspension do not disconnect both lower arms at the same time — this can lead to displacement of the bridge and damage to the brake hoses!

Electronics disassembly: control units and wiring

Electronics Almera Classic considered reliable, but problems arise over time oxidation of contacts and fraying the wiring. If you need to get to the engine control unit (ECU) or replace the harnesses, follow these rules:

• 🔌 Always disconnect the battery before working with wiring (even if you are just removing the radio).
• 📡 Block ECU located under the glove compartment - to remove it, you need to unscrew 4 bolts and disconnect 3 connectors (they must not be mixed up!).
• 🔍 Check the chain massive wires — they often bend away from the body, which leads to “floating” errors on the dashboard.

When replacing wiring, pay attention to color coding:

- Red - positive circuits.

- Black - mass.

- Green/yellow - signal wires of the sensors.

In models with immobilizer (starting from 2007) you cannot disconnect the control unit connectors without first “learning” the keys - this will block the engine from starting!

Body disassembly: doors, hood and bumpers

Body Almera Classic prone to corrosion, especially in areas where bumpers and sills are attached. When disassembling body parts, consider:

• 🚪 Doors are attached to two loops with bolts under Torx T30 - they are easy to tear off if you use the wrong tool.
• 🔧 Bumpers stay on 4 bolts (two on top and bottom) + clips. In models after 2010, the clips often break when removed.
• 🔨 The hood is held on two gas stops - if they leak, replace them with a pair (article: 40520-4M000).

During welding work (for example, when repairing thresholds) Be sure to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and the unit ECU - Even low current can damage electronics. To protect against corrosion after welding, use zinc spray or ML soil.

⚠️ Attention: In cars with airbags (since 2008) Do not disconnect the safety harness connectors without first removing the fuse (it is located in the block under the steering wheel, position F27). Otherwise the pillow might work!

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about disassembling Nissan Almera Classic

Is it possible to disassemble the interior without removing the seats?

Technically yes, but it will make it much more difficult to access the lower bolts of the instrument panel and center console. We recommend at least moving the front seats back or temporarily removing them (they are secured with 4 bolts under plastic plugs).

Which engine is more difficult to disassemble: QG15DE or QG18DE?

QG18DE larger and heavier, but in design both engines are very similar. The main difference is in access to the rear of the cylinder head: in QG18DE it is blocked by the intake manifold, which will have to be removed. Also in QG18DE It is more difficult to dismantle the flywheel due to its greater weight.

What to do if the strut mounting bolt rotates?

This is a typical problem for Almera Classic with a mileage of 150 thousand km. Solutions:

1. Try clamping the strut rod gas wrench and unscrew the nut.
2. If it doesn’t help, cut off the bolt with a grinder and install a new one (part number: 40500-4M000).
3. As a last resort, use extractor for cut bolts.

Do I need to remove the gearbox to overhaul the engine?

Not necessary if you are not planning on replacing the crankshaft or boring the block. However, for convenience (for example, when replacing piston rings or liners), it is better to remove the gearbox - this will give access to the rear engine cover and flywheel. In mechanical boxes (RS5F31A) To do this, simply unscrew the 3 bolts attaching to the engine and one bolt on the rocker.

How to avoid mistakes during reassembly?

Here are the key points:

• Use torque wrench for tightening the bolts (torques are indicated in the repair manual).
• Check everything before installing the instrument panel connectors for oxidation (clean contacts with alcohol).
• When assembling the suspension do not tighten the bolts until the end, until the car is standing on wheels (otherwise the silent blocks will work under load).