<em>Nissan Tiida</em> air conditioning compressor relay: location, faults and replacement

Nissan Tiida is a popular compact car, but its air conditioning system often becomes a source of problems. One of the most common problems is the failure of the air conditioning compressor relay, due to which the climate control stops turning on or works intermittently. In this article we will look at how to independently diagnose a malfunction, where the relay is located on different generations Tiida (C11 and C13), and how to replace it without contacting service.

Air conditioning in Nissan Tiida controlled through an electrical circuit, where the relay acts as a “switch” that supplies voltage to the compressor clutch. If the relay fails, the compressor will not activate, even if the system is filled with freon and all other components are working properly. In this case, the indicator on the dashboard may light up A/C, but no cold air comes in. In 80% of cases, the problem is solved by replacing the relay - a part that costs a penny, but finding and checking it requires knowledge.

We analyzed data from owner forums Tiida, service manuals and wiring diagrams to assemble the most complete manual possible. In the article you will find:

• 🔍 Signs of a relay malfunction and how to distinguish them from other air conditioner breakdowns
• 📍 Exact relay location on Tiida C11 (2004–2012) and Tiida C13 (2012–2019)
• 🔧 Step-by-step instructions for replacement with photos and connection diagrams
• 💰 Cost of spare parts and alternative options (original vs. analogues)
• ⚠️ Common mistakes during repairs that lead to repeated breakdowns

Signs of a bad air conditioning compressor relay

The compressor relay is an electromechanical device that wears out over time. B Nissan Tiida it most often fails due to:

• 🔥 Overheating (if the relay is located near hot parts under the hood)
• 💧 Contact corrosion (humidity, salt on roads in winter)
• ⚡ Power surges in the on-board network (for example, when “lighting” from another car)
• 🕒 Natural wear and tear (relay service life is 5–7 years or 100–150 thousand km)

How to understand that the problem is in the relay, and not in the compressor, pressure sensor or freon leak? Pay attention to the following symptoms:

Sign	Probable Cause	Steps to check
The air conditioner does not turn on, the indicator A/C there is no light on the panel	Defective relay, fuse or power button	Check the fuse F37 (10A), then relay
Indicator A/C lights up, but the compressor does not click or rotate	The relay has failed or there is an open circuit in the compressor clutch circuit	Test the relay with a multimeter, check the voltage at the compressor connector
The air conditioner turns on, but turns off after 1-2 seconds	The freon pressure sensor is faulty or the compressor clutch is jammed	Check the pressure in the system with a pressure gauge, inspect the coupling
Clicking noises from under the hood when turned on A/C, but the compressor does not start	Burnt relay contacts or broken winding	Replace the relay with a known good one.

Critical moment: if, when you turn on the air conditioner, you hear repeated clicks of the relay (like a “machine gun”), this means that the contacts are burnt and urgent replacement is required. Further operation will lead to failure of the compressor clutch.

⚠️ Attention! If the air conditioning compressor does not turn on, but there is a smell of burning in the cabin, immediately turn off the system and check the relay. Overheating can cause the plastic housing of the fuse box to melt.

Where is the air conditioning compressor relay located? Nissan Tiida

The location of the relay depends on the generation of the car. B Tiida C11 (2004–2012) and Tiida C13 (2012–2019) fuse and relay boxes are installed in different locations. Below are the exact diagrams for each version.

Nissan Tiida C11 (2004–2012)

On the first generation, the air conditioning compressor relay is located in main fuse box under the hood (on the right side, next to the battery). The block is closed with a plastic cover with the inscription FUSE & RELAY BOX.

Layout:

• 🔋 A/C compressor relay - position #12 (on the block cover it may be marked as A/C COMP. CLUTCH)
• 🔌 Air conditioner circuit fuse - F37 (10A)

Nissan Tiida C13 (2012–2019)

On the restyled version, the fuse box has been moved to the interior, under the instrument panel on the driver's side. The air conditioning compressor relay is located in additional relay block, which is located behind the glove compartment.

To access:

1. Open the glove compartment and remove it by pulling it towards you (it is secured with plastic latches).
2. Behind the glove compartment you will see a black plastic block with a relay. Compressor relay - second from top (usually gray or black).

Important: On some versions Tiida C13 the relay can be installed in the engine compartment, next to the block IPDM E/R (intelligent power circuit control unit). To determine its exact location, check the sticker on the unit cover.

How to test the air conditioning compressor relay with a multimeter

Before replacing the relay, you need to make sure that it is the problem. To do this, you will need a multimeter (or a simple “test”) and a screwdriver. Follow the instructions:

1. Remove the relay from the seat (gently pull it up without applying excessive force).
2. Inspect the contacts for oxidation or burning. If they turn black, the relay must be replaced.
3. Check winding resistance:
   • Switch the multimeter to resistance measurement mode (200 Ω).
   • Connect the probes to the terminals 85 And 86 (pin numbers are usually indicated on the relay body).
   • Resistance must be within 50–120 Ohm. If the device shows 0 (short circuit) or ∞ (break), the relay is faulty.
4. Check the functionality of the contacts:
   • Switch the multimeter to the “dialing” mode (─| |─).
   • Connect the probes to the terminals 30 And 87 - the device should show OL (open).
   • Apply voltage 12V to conclusions 85 And 86 (you can use a battery and two wires).
   • When voltage is applied, a click should be heard and the multimeter should show 0 Ω (closed). If this does not happen, the relay is faulty.

How to supply 12V to a relay without power supplies?

You can use a car battery and two wires with alligator clips. Connect +12V to the conclusion 86, and mass - to the conclusion 85. Be careful not to short-circuit the contacts!

⚠️ Attention! Do not test the relay for spark by connecting it directly to the battery without a load. This may result in damaged contacts or fire.

Remove the relay from its seat|Inspect the contacts for burnt/corrosion|Ring the winding (pins 85–86)|Apply 12V and check the circuit (pins 30–87)|Make sure there is a click when triggered-->

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the relay

If the test shows that the relay is faulty, it must be replaced. The procedure takes 5–10 minutes and does not require special skills. You will need:

• 🔧 New relay (original or analogue)
• 🔨 Flathead screwdriver (for removing the unit cover)
• 🧴 Contact lubricant (optional, for corrosion protection)

For Nissan Tiida C11 (relay under the hood):

1. Open the hood and locate the fuse box to the right of the battery.
2. Remove the unit cover by pressing the latches.
3. Remove the faulty relay (position #12 or A/C COMP. CLUTCH).
4. Install the new relay, making sure it fits tightly into the connector.
5. Close the unit cover and check the operation of the air conditioner.

For Nissan Tiida C13 (relay in the cabin):

1. Open the glove compartment and remove it by pulling it towards you (you may need a screwdriver to pry open the latches).
2. Locate the black relay block behind the glove compartment. The compressor relay is the second one from the top (gray or black).
3. Carefully remove the relay by pulling it up.
4. Install the new relay, observing the polarity (there are marks on the body).
5. Reassemble the glove compartment in reverse order and check the operation of the air conditioner.

💡

Before installing a new relay, apply a thin layer of contact compound (such as Liqui Moly Kontaktreiniger) on the legs. This will prevent oxidation and prolong service life.

⚠️ Attention! On some Tiida C13 after replacing the relay an error may occur P0530 (A/C pressure sensor circuit malfunction). In this case, reset the error using the scanner or disconnect the battery for 10 minutes.

Which relay to choose: original or analogue

For Nissan Tiida Both original relays and analogues from trusted manufacturers are suitable. Below is a table with article numbers and average prices:

Relay type	Article	Manufacturer	Average price (RUB)	Notes
Original (Nissan)	25230-3M000	Nissan	1 200–1 500	Guaranteed compatibility, but high price
Analogue (Bosch)	0 332 014 150	Bosch	400–600	High-quality replacement, suitable for most cars
Analogue (Hella)	4RA 003 507-331	Hella	500–700	Reinforced contacts, long service life
Analogue (ERA)	550157	ERA	250–350	Budget option, but lower quality

When choosing an analogue, pay attention to:

• 🔌 Contact type - must match the original (usually 4 or 5 legs).
• ⚡ Rated voltage — 12V.
• 🔄 Switching current - no less 30A (for air conditioning compressor).

💡

If you buy a relay from a non-original manufacturer, buy it from trusted stores (for example, Exist.ru, Autodoc). Cheap Chinese analogues are often counterfeited, and they fail after 1–2 months.

Typical mistakes when replacing a relay and how to avoid them

Even something as simple as replacing a relay can result in new problems if mistakes are made. Here are the most common ones:

1. Installing the relay in reverse

   There are terminal markings on the relay body (85, 86, 87, 30). If the polarity is reversed, the relay will not operate, and in the worst case, it may burn out.

   Solution: Check the diagram on the fuse box cover or take a photo of the location of the old relay before removing it.

2. Ignoring fuse check

   If the relay fails due to a short circuit, the new one will burn out immediately after installation.

   Solution: Before replacing the relay, check the fuse F37 (10A) and the circuit for the presence of a short circuit.

3. Buying a relay with unsuitable characteristics

   For example, a relay with switching current 20A instead of the required 30A will quickly fail.

   Solution: Buy a relay with a current reserve (minimum 30A).

4. Failure to observe polarity when checking

   If during testing the relay is applied +12V per mass (85), and minus by 86, the winding may burn out.

   Solution: Always connect +12V to 86, and mass k 85.

What should I do if, after replacing the relay, the air conditioner still does not work?

If replacing the relay does not help, check:

1. Freon pressure in the system (there may be a leak).

2. Condition of the compressor clutch (it should rotate without jamming).

3. Integrity of the wiring from the relay to the compressor (wires near the radiator often fray).

4. Operability of the freon pressure sensor (on the high pressure pipe).

Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Is it possible to drive without an air conditioning compressor relay?

Technically yes, but not recommended. Without a relay, the compressor will not turn on, but the clutch will remain energized, which can lead to overheating. In addition, if you drive for a long time without running the air conditioner, the compressor seals may dry out, which will lead to freon leakage.

How can you tell the difference between a faulty relay and a compressor problem?

If the relay is OK, but the compressor does not turn on, check:

• The voltage at the compressor clutch (should be 12V when turned on A/C).
• Coupling winding resistance (must be 3–5 ohms).
• Freon pressure (at low pressure the compressor will not turn on due to the sensor being triggered).

If the clutch is not receiving voltage, the problem is in the relay or wiring. If there is voltage, but the clutch does not rotate, the compressor is faulty.

How much does it cost to replace a relay at a service center?

At an official dealership, replacing the relay will cost 800–1,500 rubles (excluding the cost of the part). In independent services the price is lower - 300–600 rubles. However, the procedure is so simple that it is easy to do it yourself.

Is it possible to repair a relay if it clicks but does not close the contacts?

Temporary repairs are possible: disassemble the relay (carefully prying off the housing latches), clean the contacts with sandpaper (600–800 grit) and put it back together. However, this solution is short-lived - after 1-2 months the contacts will burn out again. It is better to replace the relay immediately.

Why does a new relay burn out quickly?

If the new relay fails within a short time, the reason may be:

• Short circuit in the compressor clutch circuit (check wiring).
• Compressor malfunctions (a jammed clutch creates increased load).
• Problems with the pressure sensor (if it gives false signals, the relay operates too often).

Diagnose the system completely, and do not limit yourself to replacing the relay.