A complete guide to replacing rear pads on a Nissan Note

Operation Nissan Note in Russian road conditions it often leads to accelerated wear of the brake system. Rear brakes, although they work with less load compared to the front ones, require regular attention and timely replacement of consumables. Ignoring signs of wear can lead to damage to the brake discs, which will significantly increase the cost of subsequent repairs.

The procedure for replacing the rear pads on this model has its own peculiarities, especially if your car is equipped with an electronic handbrake (EPB) system. Unlike mechanical drives, this requires a special procedure for returning the caliper piston to its original position through a diagnostic scanner or a sequence of actions with the handbrake button, otherwise you simply will not be able to install new parts.

In this article, we will look in detail at how to choose the right components, what tools you will need, and how to avoid critical mistakes when servicing yourself. We will pay special attention to the nuances of working with electronics so that you can complete the job safely in a garage environment.

Diagnostics of wear and selection of suitable consumables

The first step before starting any work is to objectively assess the current condition of the brake system. On Nissan Note Wear often occurs unevenly, so a visual inspection through the wheel rim may not be sufficient. It is necessary to remove the wheel and carefully examine the thickness of the friction layer. If it is less than 2-3 mm, replacement becomes mandatory.

In addition to thickness, pay attention to the presence of squeaks, squeaks or metallic grinding sounds when braking. These sounds often indicate that not only the friction layer has worn out, but also the spring elements or guides. It is also worth checking the condition of the brake discs: if they have deep grooves or thermal cracks, they must be sharpened or replaced along with the pads.

Choosing new pads is a matter of your safety. The market offers original parts from Nissan, as well as high-quality analogues from brands TRW, Brembo and Textar. Cheap non-original options often have poor friction mixture quality, which can lead to overheating and reduced braking efficiency.

• 🔍 Check the article numbers of the original pads, they often change depending on the year of manufacture of the model.
• ✅ Give preference to pads with a wear indicator (metal bracket), which will signal the need for replacement.
• 🚫 Avoid purchasing kits with damaged packaging or traces of rust on metal parts.

⚠️ Attention: Do not install new pads on old, worn out discs. This will lead to rapid wear of the new linings and vibration during braking.

It is also important to consider the type of braking system. If your vehicle has electronic disc brakes, make sure the pads you choose are suitable for that configuration. Some kits for mechanical versions may not be suitable due to different fastening designs or the presence/absence of wear sensors.

Preparing tools and work area

To do the job well, you will need a set of specialized tools. A standard jack and wrenches may not be able to remove jammed caliper bolts or may require excessive force. It is better to prepare in advance a jack with a good safety margin and reliable stands for the car body.

The key when working on rear calipers is the piston roller tool. If you have a mechanical handbrake, a regular clamp tool or special pliers will do. However, electronically driven (EPB) models will require a diagnostic scan tool that can put the caliper into service mode, or a specific hand tool to rotate the piston.

Don't forget about protective equipment and cleaning compounds. Brake dust is toxic, so the use of a respirator and gloves is mandatory. You'll also need brake cleaner, caliper guide lubricant (preferably high-temp silicone- or copper-based), and a wire brush to remove rust.

• 🛠️ Set of sockets and ratchets, including 12, 14 and 17 mm sockets.
• 🧰 Jack, stands (“goats”) and wheel chocks.
• 🔧 Scraper for cleaning the caliper from old grease and dirt.

Prepare the workplace: the car should be parked on a level surface with the gear engaged (for a manual transmission) or in the “P” position (for an automatic transmission). The rear wheels must be placed under the front ones to prevent them from rolling off. If you are working in a garage, make sure there is enough lighting to allow detailed inspection of small parts.

Dismantling the wheel and removing the brake caliper

Before starting work, be sure to loosen the wheel bolts while the vehicle is stationary. After you jack up the car, unscrew the bolts and remove the wheel. You now have full access to the brake mechanism. Inspect the caliper and make sure there are no obvious brake fluid leaks from the brake hose.

The next step is to unscrew the caliper guides. These are usually two bolts on the back of the caliper that secure it to the caliper. Use a ratchet with an extension if access is difficult. After unscrewing the bolts, carefully remove the caliper from the brake disc. Do not allow the caliper to hang on the brake hose, as this may damage its internal structure. Hang it on a wire or hook from a pendant.

Remove the old brake pads from the bracket. Pay attention to the position of the spring clips and anti-squeak plates. If they are deformed or worn, they must be replaced. Also check the condition of the guide pins: they should move freely in their seats and be covered with fresh lubricant.

• 🔧 Use WD-40 or equivalent to treat rusted bolts before unscrewing.
• ⚙️ Clean the seats from dirt and corrosion with a metal brush.
• 🛑 Do not disconnect the brake hose from the caliper unless absolutely necessary.

⚠️ Attention: When removing the caliper, do not press the brake pedal! This can cause the piston to fly out of the cylinder and cause loss of brake fluid.

If your car has an electronic handbrake, normal pressure will not work and may break the mechanism. In this case, you need to connect a diagnostic scanner and activate the brake service mode through the menu Chassis → Brake → Parking Brake → Service Mode.

How does the EPB screw mechanism work?

Unlike mechanical pistons, which only move linearly, EPB pistons are threaded. When the handbrake is tightened, they are twisted outward, and when released, they are screwed back in. To replace the pads, you need to screw them all the way in, but without a scanner this is extremely difficult to do without damaging the mechanism.

Caliper Piston Return Procedure

This is the most critical stage that requires precision. If you have a version with a mechanical handbrake, the piston can be pressed in with a clamp or a special device. The main thing is to rotate the piston clockwise when pushing it in, since it is threaded. This is a common feature of many rear calipers.

For electronically driven versions (EPB), the procedure is more complicated. Without special equipment, you can try to use the method of sequentially pressing the handbrake button and the brake pedal, but this method does not work on all modifications Nissan Note. The most reliable option is to use a dealer scanner or high-quality multi-brand diagnostic equipment that supports the function EPB Retraction.

After the piston is fully retracted, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. When the piston is pressed in, the liquid is forced back into the reservoir and the level may rise above the maximum. If this happens, it is necessary to pump out the excess fluid so that the next time you press the brake pedal, it does not leak out.

• 🔩 Rotate the piston only in the right direction so as not to disrupt the thread.
• 💧 Monitor the brake fluid level in the reservoir while retracting the piston.
• 🔌 Use only proven diagnostic programs to work with EPB.

If you are not confident in your abilities when working with electronics, it is better not to risk it and contact a service center. Careless actions with the electronic handbrake can lead to failure of the caliper drive motor, the repair of which will cost much more than the cost of a technician.

Installing new pads and assembling the unit

Before installing new pads, clean the caliper bracket from old dirt and rust. Apply a thin layer of high-temperature grease to the pad-to-clip contact areas and to the guide pins. It is important not to lubricate the working surface of the pads and brake disc! This will result in loss of braking efficiency.

Install new spring clips and anti-squeak plates, if included. Then carefully insert the new pads into the bracket. Make sure they fit snugly and have no play, but still move freely in the guides. If the pads are sticking, check for rust on the guides.

Place the caliper on the bracket and tighten the guide bolts. Tighten them to the recommended torque to avoid stripping the threads or deforming the caliper body. After this, install the wheel and lower the car to the ground. Do not fully tighten the wheel bolts while the vehicle is not on its wheels.

Check the operation of the handbrake. If you have an electronic drive, activate it and make sure that it operates smoothly and keeps the car on the slope. For a mechanical drive, check the lever travel: it should be within 5-7 clicks when fully tightened.

Brake fluid and system check

After replacing the pads, it is highly recommended to check the condition of the brake fluid. If it is dark or contains impurities, it is better to replace it completely. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture from the air, which lowers the boiling point and can lead to vaporization during heavy braking.

To change the fluid, use the bleeding method. Start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder (usually the right rear), then left rear, right front, and left front. Make sure that there is always a supply of fluid in the tank and do not allow air to enter the system.

• 🧪 Use only fluid recommended by the manufacturer (usually DOT-4).
• 🔄 Check the tightness of all connections after pumping.
• 🚗 Test drive at low speed to check braking performance.

When driving for the first time, avoid sudden braking. Give the pads time to break in (usually 200-300 km). During this period, braking efficiency may be slightly lower than usual. If you notice any unusual sounds or vibrations, stop immediately and check for proper installation.

⚠️ Warning: Never use old brake fluid that has been drained from the system. It may contain moisture and impurities that reduce safety.

Regularly checking your brake system is a guarantee of your safety. Even if you replaced the pads yourself, do not neglect scheduled maintenance from specialists who will be able to conduct a more in-depth diagnosis of the suspension and braking system.

Parameter	Mechanical handbrake	Electronic handbrake (EPB)
Piston tool	Clamp, pliers	Diagnostic scanner
Difficulty of replacement	Average	High
Risk of failure due to error	Low	High (electronics)
The need to reset the indicator	No	Yes (via scanner)

Compliance with all replacement stages and the use of quality materials will allow you to extend the life of your brake system. Nissan Note. Remember, there is no point in skimping on safety, so choose trusted brands and don’t skip important preparation steps.

Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Is it possible to replace rear pads without a scanner with versions with EPB?

Theoretically, you can try special methods with sequential pressing of buttons, but this does not guarantee success and can lead to breakdown of the mechanism. The most reliable way is to use diagnostic equipment to put the caliper into service mode.

How often do you need to change the rear pads on a Nissan Note?

Service life depends on driving style and operating conditions. On average, rear pads last 60-80 thousand kilometers, but it is recommended to check their thickness at each scheduled maintenance (every 10-15 thousand km).

What to do if the brake squeaks after replacing the pads?

Creaking can be caused by a lack of lubrication on the contact pads, poor-quality pads or insufficient running-in. Try applying a special anti-squeak paste and check for rust on the bracket.

Do I need to change brake discs and pads?

If the thickness of the disc is within the acceptable minimum and there are no deep grooves on it, it is not necessary to change them. However, if the discs are heavily worn, the new pads will wear out faster and may squeak.

How to properly break in new brake pads?

In the first 200-300 km, avoid sudden braking and extreme loads. This will allow the friction layer to adapt to the disc and ensure maximum braking performance in the future.