Air conditioner radiator (condenser) in Nissan Murano - A critical element of the climate control system that fails over time due to corrosion, mechanical damage or clogging. If you notice that the air conditioner is blowing warm air and the indicator light on the dashboard comes on AC OFFMost likely the problem is in the radiator. In this article we will look at how to diagnose a malfunction, select a high-quality condenser and replace it yourself without contacting the service.

Feature Murano (especially models Z50 And Z51 with engines VQ35DE And VQ25DE) - close location of the air conditioner radiator in front of the main cooling radiator. This makes access difficult, but with proper preparation the job can be completed in 3-4 hours. We will describe each stage in detail, indicate unique nuances for Murano with automatic transmission and all-wheel drive, and also warn against typical mistakes that lead to repeated repairs.

Signs of a malfunctioning air conditioner radiator on a Nissan Murano

The condenser rarely fails suddenly; it is usually preceded by characteristic symptoms. Main sign: The air conditioner stops cooling the air, even if the compressor turns on (you can hear a click and a change in engine speed). Here is the full list of "calls":

  • 🔥 Hot air from deflectors with the air conditioner turned on, despite normal freon pressure.
  • 💧 Oil stains or puddles under the radiator - a sign of depressurization of the circuit.
  • 🚨 Indicator AC OFF on the dashboard flashes or stays on continuously.
  • 🔊 Noise or rattling from the front bumper when the compressor is running.
  • 🌡️ High blood pressure in the system (can be checked with a pressure gauge on the filling nipple).

On Murano with mileage over 150 thousand km is often found corrosion of aluminum tubes condenser - especially in the lower part, where dirt and reagents accumulate. If upon inspection you see green coating or white stains (traces of freon leakage with oil), the radiator must be replaced. You can check the tightness using UV lamps and a special dye that is added to the system.

⚠️ Attention: If you ignore the freon leak, the air conditioning compressor will start to run dry, which will lead to it jamming. Repairing a compressor will cost 3–5 times more than replacing a radiator!

Which air conditioner radiator to choose for Nissan Murano?

Original condenser from Nissan has an article number 27800-4M000 (for Murano Z50/Z51) or 27800-4M00A (for Z52 restyling). The cost of the original is from 12 to 20 thousand rubles, but there are worthy analogues on the market from trusted brands. It is important to choose a radiator with the same dimensions and location of fittings, otherwise you will have to redo the fastenings or lines.

Brand Article Price, rub. Features
Nissan (original) 27800-4M000 12 000–20 000 12 months warranty, perfect compatibility
Denso 477-1103 8 500–11 000 High build quality, often installed on assembly line
Nissens 943016 7 000–9 500 Good heat dissipation, but thin tubes - risk of corrosion
Sanden SD7H14 6 500–8 000 Budget option, suitable for temporary replacement

When purchasing, pay attention to:

  • 🔧 Tube material - aluminum with anti-corrosion coating will last longer.
  • 📏 Core thickness — the thicker, the better the heat transfer (but check compatibility with fasteners).
  • 🔄 Availability of O-rings included (if not, buy separately, article number 27854-4M000).
📊 Which air conditioning radiator would you prefer for Murano?
  • Original Nissan
  • Denso
  • Nissens
  • Sanden
  • Other brand

Tools and consumables for replacement

To work you will need specialized tool, since you will have to disassemble the front part of the car and work with freon. Here's the full list:

  • 🔧 Set of sockets and ratchet wrenches (10, 12, 14 mm).
  • 🔩 8 mm socket wrench for radiator mounts.
  • 🛠️ Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers (for clips and clamps).
  • 🔧 Special key for service ports (or pliers with thin jaws).
  • 🔄 Vacuum pump And manometric station for refilling freon.
  • 🧴 Freon R-134a (600–800 g) + compressor oil PAG-46 (30–50 ml).
  • 🧤 Gloves and glasses Freon under pressure can freeze the skin.

If you do not have equipment for vacuuming and filling, you can contact the service only for this part of the work - this will save 2-3 thousand rubles. But remember: It is impossible to charge the system without vacuuming — moisture will remain inside, which will quickly damage the new compressor.

Drain the freon from the system (or contact service)|Disconnect the battery (relieve pressure in the system)|Prepare the workplace (lighting, tools)|Buy o-rings and a new filter drier|Check the presence of all fasteners-->

Step-by-step instructions for replacing an air conditioner radiator

It is more convenient to carry out work on lift or overpass, but if necessary, you can get by with jacks with stops. The main thing is to provide access to the bottom of the radiator. Follow the algorithm:

1. Draining freon and removing the front bumper

If there is freon left in the system, it is needed bleed through the service port (on the low pressure tube, usually marked with a blue cap). Use a port wrench or pliers, but be careful not to damage the fitting! After bleeding:

  1. Unscrew the bumper mounting bolts (2 on each side under the wings and 4 below).
  2. Disconnect the clips holding the bumper on the sides (be careful, they are fragile!).
  3. Remove the bumper, first disconnecting the fog light connectors (if equipped).

2. Dismantling the cooling radiator and fans

To get to the condenser, you will have to temporarily remove the main radiator. To do this:

  1. Drain the coolant (or clamp the pipes if the coolant is fresh).
  2. Unscrew the 4 radiator mounting bolts at the top and 2 at the bottom.
  3. Disconnect the fan connector and remove it (it is secured with 3 bolts).
  4. Carefully move the radiator to the side (do not disconnect the pipes completely unless you have drained the liquid).
How to avoid damage to radiator pipes?

When moving the radiator to the side, secure it with a rope or belt so that it does not sag and tear the pipes. If the pipes are old (crack when bent), it is better to replace them in advance (part number 21470-4M000 for the top and 21471-4M000 for the lower one).

3. Removing the old air conditioner radiator

Now the condenser is visible - it is mounted on 4 bolts (2 on top and bottom) and connected to the system by two aluminum tubes. Procedure:

  1. Unscrew the fastening bolts (8 mm wrench).
  2. Loosen the clamps on the tubes using a 10mm socket wrench.
  3. Carefully loosen the tubes - they may “stick” to the fittings. Do not use excessive force!
  4. Remove the radiator by pulling it towards you (you may have to bend the tubes a little).
⚠️ Attention: If the tubes do not come off, do not try to cut them! Use penetrating lubricant (For example, WD-40) and let it run for 10–15 minutes. Damage to the pipes will lead to replacement of the entire line, which will increase the cost of repairs by 5–7 thousand rubles.

4. Installing a new radiator

Before installing a new condenser:

  • Check integrity of o-rings on the fittings (replace if necessary).
  • Apply a thin layer compressor oil PAG-46 on rubber seals - this will facilitate installation.
  • Make sure there is no transport film on the radiator (sometimes people forget to remove it!).

Installation is performed in reverse order:

  1. Connect the tubes to the fittings and tighten the clamps to a torque of 8–10 Nm.
  2. Secure the radiator with bolts (do not overtighten - the aluminum may crack!).
  3. Reinstall the fan and main radiator.
  4. Connect the bumper and check all connectors.

5. Vacuuming and filling the system

This is the most critical stage. Without evacuation, moisture will remain in the system, which will lead to corrosion of a new radiator and compressor failure. Procedure:

  1. Connect pressure gauge station to the service ports (blue - low pressure, red - high).
  2. Open both taps and connect vacuum pump for 30–40 minutes.
  3. Close the taps and check for leaks (the pressure should not drop for 10–15 minutes).
  4. Recharge the system freon R-134a (norm for Murano — 650±50 g) + 30 ml oil PAG-46.
💡

If the air conditioner is weak after refueling, check the pressure with a pressure gauge. Normal indicators for Murano at +20°C: low pressure - 2-3 bar, high - 12-15 bar. If the readings are outside the limits, look for a leak or compressor failure.

Typical mistakes when replacing an air conditioner radiator

Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes that lead to repeated repairs. That's what can't do when replacing the condenser with Murano:

  • 🚫 Ignore replacing the filter drier (article 27870-4M000). The old filter is saturated with moisture and will not cope with the new load.
  • 🚫 Tighten the clamps on the tubes - this leads to cracks in aluminum fittings.
  • 🚫 Fill the system without vacuuming — moisture in freon reduces the service life of the compressor by 2–3 times.
  • 🚫 Use incompatible oil (For example, PAG-100 instead of PAG-46). This will damage the compressor seals.
  • 🚫 Do not check for leaks after refueling. - The leak may appear after a few days.

Another common mistake is incorrect assembly of the front part. For example, they forget to connect the fan connector or do not secure the bumper tightly, which leads to vibrations and breakage of the clips. After assembly, be sure to:

  • Check your work all headlights and fog lights.
  • Make sure the bumper sits straight (the gaps are the same on all sides).
  • Check no errors on the dashboard (for example, P0532 - low freon pressure).
💡

If after replacing the radiator the air conditioner turns on, but turns off after 5–10 minutes, the problem is a faulty pressure sensor (part number 39280-4M000) or clogged filter drier. Check them before refilling!

How much does it cost to replace the air conditioner radiator on a Nissan Murano?

The cost of repairs depends on whether you do it yourself or have it done by a service center. Let's consider both options:

Expense item On your own In service
Air conditioner radiator 7,000–15,000 rub. 7,000–15,000 rub.
Filter drier RUB 1,200–1,800 RUB 1,200–1,800 (+ work)
Freon R-134a (650 g) 1,500–2,000 rub. Included in the price of refueling
Work (disassembly/assembly) — 8,000–12,000 rub.
Vacuuming and filling — (if there is equipment) 2,500–4,000 rub.
Total 8,500–18,800 rub. 18,700–32,800 rub.

The savings from self-repair are obvious - almost 2 times. However, if you have no experience with freon systems, it is better to entrust vacuuming and filling to professionals. Mistakes at this stage are more costly than savings.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about replacing the air conditioner radiator on a Nissan Murano

Is it possible to drive with a faulty air conditioner radiator?

Technically possible, but not advisable. If the radiator leaks, the freon gradually evaporates, and the compressor runs dry, which leads to its wear. In addition, without freon, condensation forms in the system, which accelerates the corrosion of all metal parts. At the first sign of a malfunction, it is better to immediately replace the condenser.

How often should you replace the air conditioning radiator on a Murano?

The service life of the original radiator is 100–150 thousand km, but it greatly depends on operating conditions. In regions with aggressive winters (reagents, salt) or high humidity, the radiator may fail after 80 thousand km. Prevention: wash the radiator outside once a year (for example, Karcherohm) and check the freon pressure.

Is it possible to repair an air conditioner radiator (solder it)?

Theoretically it is possible, but not recommended. After soldering, aluminum radiators lose strength at the seams, and the seal is often broken after 1–2 months. In addition, corrosion products remain inside, which clog the filter drier. Sealing is justified only as a temporary measure if it is not possible to buy a new radiator.

What happens if you do not replace the filter drier when replacing the radiator?

The filter drier absorbs moisture and small particles from freon. If it is not replaced, moisture will remain in the system and begin to interact with the compressor oil, forming acid, which corrodes seals and tubes. This will lead to leaks and compressor failure. The cost of the filter (1,500 rubles) is not comparable with the risks (compressor repair - from 20 thousand rubles).

How to check that the new radiator is installed correctly?

After replacement and refueling:

  1. Turn on the air conditioner to maximum cold and check the air temperature from the vents (should be 5–10°C).
  2. Listen to the operation of the compressor - there should be no extraneous noise (knocking, creaking).
  3. Check the pressure with a pressure gauge (low: 2–3 bar, high: 12–15 bar at +20°C).
  4. Inspect the pipe connections - there should be no oil stains (a sign of leakage).

If everything is in order, the radiator is installed correctly.