Nissan Maxima A33 (1999–2003) - a legendary sedan with a reliable but high-maintenance automatic transmission RE4F04A. Many owners experience jerks, shift delays, or complete failure of the automatic transmission precisely because of untimely oil changes. In this article, we will look at how to carry out the procedure yourself without harming the transmission, and why “eternal” oil is a myth.
The manufacturer recommends changing the automatic transmission fluid every 60–90 thousand km, but for Maxima A33 with mileage over 150 thousand km, this interval should be reduced to 40–50 thousand km. The fact is that over time, the oil loses viscosity, accumulates friction wear products and clogs the solenoids - this leads to increased pressure in the valve body and accelerated wear of planetary mechanisms. If you notice that the transmission “kicks” when switching from 1st to 2nd gear or a burning smell appears, this is a direct signal to action.
What kind of oil to pour into automatic transmission Nissan Maxima A33
Oil selection is a critical step. For RE4F04A Only approved fluids are suitable Nissan Matic-D or Matic-J. Original oil - Nissan ATF Matic-D (art. KLE22-00004), but there are high-quality analogues:
- 🔹 Idemitsu ATF Type-J — the best option in terms of price/quality, fully compatible with solenoids Maxima A33.
- 🔹 Mobil ATF 3309 — suitable for cold regions (retains fluidity down to -40°C).
- 🔹 Castrol Transmax J — improves the smoothness of switching, but can cause oil seal leaks with a mileage of >200 thousand km.
- 🔹 Toyota T-IV - a controversial choice: some masters use it as a budget alternative, but the risk of premature wear of the clutches increases.
Oil volume for complete replacement — 9.5–10 liters, for partial (drain/fill) — 4–4.5 liters. Do not mix different types of oils! If you have previously filled Matic-D, and now we decided to switch to Matic-J, will be required flushing the system special composition (for example, Liqui Moly ATF Reiniger).
⚠️ Attention: Oils with markings Dexron III/VI or Mercon V not suitable for Maxima A33! They have a different viscosity characteristic and can cause the friction discs to slip.
Tools and consumables for replacement
Before starting work, prepare everything you need. Without special devices, it will not be possible to drain the oil completely - up to 30–40% old fluid.
| Name | Quantity | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| ATF oil (Nissan Matic-D or equivalent) | 10 l (full replacement) / 5 l (partial) | Take with reserve - possible losses during washing |
| Automatic transmission filter | 1 piece | Original - 31726-31X00, analogues: JS Asakashi JT506K, Febi 28310 |
| Pan gasket | 1 piece | Original - 31397-31X02, alternative - Elring 313.970 |
| Drain plug o-ring | 1 piece | Mediator 11026-01M02 (often comes with a stopper) |
| Funnel with extension | 1 piece | Neck diameter - 12–14 mm |
Additionally you will need:
- 🔧 Socket wrench on
10 mm(for pallet bolts). - 🔧 Hexagon on
5 mm(for drain plug). - 🔧 Torque wrench (pan tightening torque - 8–10 Nm).
- 🧹 Lint-free rags, drain container (minimum 5 l), carburetor cleaner (for flushing the pan).
- Original Nissan Matic-D
- Idemitsu Type-J
- Mobil ATF 3309
- Castrol Transmax J
- Other
Preparing the car for an oil change
Before work, warm up the box to operating temperature (60–80°C). To do this:
- Start the engine and let it idle for 5-7 minutes.
- Switch the automatic transmission selector to all positions one by one (
P → R → N → D → 2 → L), holding each for 3–5 seconds. - Return the lever to position
Pand turn off the engine.
Next:
- 🚗 Drive the car to pit, overpass or lift. Working while lying under a car is inconvenient and dangerous.
- 🔧 Remove the crankcase protection (if equipped). On Maxima A33 it is secured with 4–6 bolts on
10 mm. - 🧽 Clean the automatic transmission case and pan from dirt with a metal brush - this will prevent debris from getting inside.
⚠️ Attention: If there are marks on the pallet emulsions (white coating) is a sign of antifreeze getting into the oil through a damaged automatic transmission cooling radiator. In this case, diagnostics of the cooling system is required!
Before draining the oil, unscrew the filler plug (5 mm hexagon) - this will speed up the process and prevent the formation of a vacuum.
Step-by-step instructions: partial oil change
Partial replacement is suitable for vehicles with mileage up to 150 thousand km or during regular maintenance. The procedure takes 1–1.5 hours.
Drain the old oil through the plug|Remove the pan and clean the magnets|Replace the automatic transmission filter|Install a new pan gasket|Fill with fresh oil to the level-->
Step 1: Drain the oil
Place a container under the drain plug (it is located at the bottom of the pan). Unscrew the plug with a hexagon on 5 mm and wait until the oil drains. On average it turns out 3.5–4 liters.
Step 2. Removing the pallet
Unscrew all the pan bolts (there are 16–18 of them) using a socket wrench 10 mm. Carefully remove the tray - there will still be some left in it. 0.5–1 liter of oil. Clean the magnets from metal shavings (their presence is normal for a mileage of >100 thousand km, but large particles should alert you).
Step 3: Replace the filter
The automatic transmission filter is secured with 3-4 bolts. Remove it and install a new one. Do not wash the old filter - this is useless, since its paper element is already clogged with microparticles.
Step 4. Installing the pallet
Clean the mating surface of the pan and automatic transmission housing from the old gasket. Apply a thin layer of sealant (Loctite 574 or equivalent) onto a new gasket and install the pan, tightening the bolts evenly in a cross pattern.
Step 5. Filling with new oil
Fill the oil through the filler hole (next to the battery) using a funnel. Sufficient for partial replacement 4–4.5 liters. After filling:
- Start the engine and warm up the transmission.
- Switch the selector to all positions.
- Check the oil level with a dipstick (should be between the marks
HOTat operating temperature).
After a partial change, the oil in the automatic transmission is updated only by 40–50%. A complete update will require 2-3 such procedures at intervals of 500-1000 km.
Complete oil change: displacement method
A complete replacement is required when the mileage is >200 thousand km, after automatic transmission repair or when the oil is heavily contaminated. For this you need high pressure apparatus (For example, Launch CScanner), but you can do without it.
Method 1: Hardware replacement (recommended)
At the service station, the device is connected to the automatic transmission radiator pipes. The old oil is replaced by new oil under pressure. Benefits:
- 🔄 Replacement 95–98% oils in one cycle.
- 🧹 Flushing the torque converter and solenoids.
- ⚡ Fast - takes 30-40 minutes.
Disadvantage: cost of service - 3–5 thousand rubles (excluding oil).
Method 2: Manual Wiping (for Experienced)
You will need an assistant and 12–15 liters of oil. Algorithm:
- Drain the oil through the plug (as with a partial replacement).
- Disconnect the lower automatic transmission radiator pipe (it leads to the box).
- Place a transparent hose on the nozzle and lower it into the container.
- Start the engine. An assistant should gradually add new oil through the filler neck until clear fluid comes out of the hose.
- As soon as the oil color stabilizes, turn off the engine and connect the pipe back.
⚠️ Attention: When manually displacing, monitor the oil level in the box! If the oil goes below the minimum mark, the automatic transmission pump will begin to capture air, which will lead to damage to solenoids.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
Even experienced car owners make mistakes that can result in costly repairs. Here are the most common:
- 🚫 Overfilling or underfilling oil. The optimal level is between
HOTon the dipstick when the box is warm. Overflow leads to oil foaming and loss of pressure, underfilling - to oil starvation. - 🚫 Using the wrong oil. For example, Dexron VI instead of Matic-D will cause friction clutches to slip after 5–10 thousand km.
- 🚫 Forget to change the filter. The old filter is clogged with wear products and does not allow the oil to pass through in full, which leads to increased wear of the planetary gears.
- 🚫 Drip tray magnets do not clean. The accumulation of metal shavings can clog the oil passages of the valve body.
- 🚫 Tighten the pan bolts without a torque wrench. Too strong a tightening will deform the pan, a weak tightening will cause a leak.
Another common problem is improper flushing. Some owners use kerosene or diesel fuel to clean the pan. This is strictly prohibited! Aggressive solvents destroy seals and gaskets. For cleaning, use only specialized products, for example:
- 🧴 Liqui Moly ATF Reiniger — gently removes deposits.
- 🧴 Wynn’s ATF Flush — restores the operation of the solenoids.
What should you do if, after changing the oil, the automatic transmission begins to twitch?
If jerking occurs after replacement, the probable reasons are:
1. **Incorrect oil level** - check with a dipstick and add/drain excess.
2. **Dirty valve body** - the solenoids need to be flushed or replaced.
3. **Poor quality oil** - drain it and fill with the original Nissan Matic-D.
4. **Wear of friction clutches** - if the mileage is >250 thousand km, the automatic transmission may need to be repaired.
In 80% of cases, the problem is solved by adjusting the oil level or repeat replacement with flushing.
When is automatic transmission repair required after an oil change?
Sometimes changing the oil does not solve the problem, but only reveals hidden faults. Contact a specialist if after the procedure:
- 🔴Box does not include transmissions (especially the 3rd or 4th).
- 🔴Appears thud when switching from
PonD. - 🔴 The oil quickly darkens (over 1-2 thousand km) - a sign friction wear.
- 🔴 Visible on the dipstick aluminum shavings (signal of destruction of the planetary mechanism).
Automatic transmission repair cost RE4F04A varies:
| Type of repair | Cost (RUB) | Deadlines |
|---|---|---|
| Replacing solenoids | 8 000–15 000 | 1 day |
| Valve block repair | 15 000–25 000 | 2–3 days |
| Replacing clutches | 25 000–40 000 | 3–5 days |
| Overhaul (with replacement of planetary gear) | 50 000–80 000 | 5–7 days |
If mileage Maxima A33 exceeded 300 thousand km, it is more advisable to consider the option contract automatic transmission (price - 30–50 thousand rubles) or installation used automatic transmission from disassembly (from 20 thousand rubles).
FAQ: Frequently asked questions about changing automatic transmission oil Nissan Maxima A33
Is it possible to mix different oils in an automatic transmission?
No, mix different types of oils (e.g. Matic-D And Matic-J) is not possible. This will lead to a change in viscosity, foaming and accelerated wear of the clutches. If you need to add oil, use just the same type, which is already filled.
How much oil should I fill during a complete change?
For a complete replacement using the displacement method, you will need 9.5–10 liters. For partial replacement (drain/fill) - 4–4.5 liters. The exact volume depends on how much oil is left in the torque converter.
How often should you change the oil if the car is driven in the city?
In city traffic jams and frequent stops, the replacement interval should be reduced to 30–40 thousand km. High temperatures and loads accelerate oil degradation.
What should you do if, after changing the oil, the automatic transmission becomes “dull”?
Probably, the new oil washed away the deposits that previously “mask” the wear of the solenoids or valve body. Try to do automatic transmission adaptation (reset errors via Consult III or similar scanner). If it doesn't help, diagnostics is required.
Is it possible to use additives for automatic transmissions?
Additives type Liqui Moly ATF Additive or Wynn’s ATF Stop Leak may temporarily improve shift smoothness, but will not solve the wear problem. With a mileage of >200 thousand km, additives often have the opposite effect - the oil channels become clogged. Use them only as short term solution before renovation.