Nissan Skyline GT-R R34 — not just a car, but a symbol of the era. Released in 1999 and produced until 2002, this supercar was the last in the legendary line R32-R33-R34before GT-R reborn into a separate model R35. The 2000 model year car is the pinnacle of engineering Nissan late 90s: twin-turbo engine RB26DETT, all-wheel drive system ATTESA E-TS Pro and electronics that were ahead of their time.
Today R34 GT-R - one of the most sought-after Japanese classics on the secondary market. Prices for original copies are breaking records, and replicas and engine swaps have become a separate cultural phenomenon. But before buying, it’s worth understanding: how does the 2000 version differ from earlier ones, what hidden problems what these machines conceal and how to operate them correctly so as not to turn the investment into a money pit.
2000 Nissan GT-R R34 Specifications: What's Under the Hood
Heart R34 - This is a 2.6-liter inline six-cylinder engine RB26DETT with two turbines Garrett. As standard, the engine produced 280 hp (according to Japanese standards), but the actual power, as is known, was underestimated by the manufacturer. Stock examples were often shown on dynos 320–340 hp — this is due to the “gentleman’s agreement” between Japanese automakers at that time.
Key features of the power unit:
- 🔧 Cylinder block made of cast iron with closed deck, designed for high loads
- 🌀 Turbines Garrett GT2560-5 (in version V-Spec II Nür - ceramic)
- ⚙️ 6-speed manual transmission Getrag with synchronizers in all gears
- 🔄 All-wheel drive system ATTESA E-TS Pro with electronically controlled torque distribution
Transmission R34 It is considered one of the most reliable among Japanese sports cars of that period. Box Getrag withstands up to 500–600 hp without modifications, and a dual clutch (in versions V-Spec) allows more efficient transfer of power to the wheels. Suspension Multi-Link front and rear provides excellent handling, but requires regular maintenance - silent blocks and bushings wear out every 50-60 thousand km.
- RB26DETT (Nissan GT-R)
- 2JZ-GTE (Toyota Supra)
- B18C (Honda Integra Type R)
- 4G63T (Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution)
Differences between the 2000 version and the 1999 and 2001–2002 R34.
Cars of the 2000 model year occupy an intermediate position between the early R34 (1999) and later (2001–2002). The main changes affected electronics and individual components:
| Parameter | 1999 | 2000 | 2001–2002 |
|---|---|---|---|
| ECU | Softer settings | Optimized software for turbines | Improved chip protection |
| Turbines | Steel GT2554R | Steel GT2560-5 (best response) | Ceramic in V-Spec II Nür |
| Suspension | Softer | Stiffer (changed shock absorber settings) | Even tougher in Nür-versions |
| Interior | Analogue tidy | Digital display Multi-Function Display (MFD) | Superior MFD with additional sensors |
The main advantage of the 2000 version is balance. It is devoid of the “childhood diseases” of early models (for example, problems with the cylinder head gasket), but does not yet have the sophisticated electronics of later releases. This is why many tuners prefer to use R34 exactly 2000 for the construction of design machines.
Upon purchase R34 GT-R 2000, pay attention to the VIN: if it starts with BNR34-00****, this is an early batch with “softer” ECU settings, which are easier to chip.
Weaknesses and typical problems: what to look for before buying
Nissan GT-R R34 — The car is reliable, but age is taking its toll. Here critical nodes, which require checking:
⚠️ Attention: If the seller refuses to provide service history or access to the diagnostic connector CONSULT - this is a reason to be wary. This is often how they hide traces of accidents or unsuccessful tuning.
- 🔥 Engine
RB26DETT:- The cylinder head gasket is a weak point on cars with mileage >100 thousand km. Symptoms: white smoke from the exhaust, emulsion in oil.
- Turbines are a resource of original Garrett is ~80–100 thousand km. After this, replacement or rebuild is required.
- Oil pump - on cars with an aggressive driving style, it wears out after 150 thousand km.
- ⚡ Electronics:
- MFD (digital instrumentation) often fails due to oxidation of contacts.
- Control unit ATTESA sensitive to power surges - check the stability of the all-wheel drive.
- Oxygen sensors (lambda probes) require replacement every 60–80 thousand km.
- 🛠️ Transmission:
- Clutch in versions without V-Spec runs ~50 thousand km with active driving.
- Differential bearings are a weak point when tuning over 400 hp.
Pay special attention body. R34 suffers from corrosion in the following areas:
- 🚗 Thresholds (especially on the inside)
- 🚗 Wings (at the places where the bumpers are attached)
- 🚗 Bottom under the fuel tank
Checking compression in cylinders (should be 12–14 bar)
Diagnostics of turbines for play
All-wheel drive system test (check operation ATTESA)
Inspection of the body on a lift (corrosion, signs of repair)
Checking service history (especially oil and timing belt changes) -->
Tuning potential: how to unlock the power of the RB26DETT
Engine RB26DETT famous for its potential. Even a stock block with proper preparation can withstand 600–800 hp, and with forced internals - up to 1000+ hp. But it is important to understand that each stage of modification requires an integrated approach.
Basic tuning steps:
- Stage 1 (up to 400 hp):
- 🔧 Replacement of turbines with Garrett GT2860-5 or HKS GT-SS
- 🔧 Installation of exhaust system
3.5"(For example, HKS Hi-Power) - 🔧 ECU chipping (popular firmware: Power FC, Haltech, Apexi Power FC)
- 🔧 Reinforced fuel injectors (e.g. Nismo 550cc)
- Stage 2 (400–600 hp):
- 🔧 Reinforced oil pump (N1 or JUN)
- 🔧 Forged pistons and connecting rods (e.g. JE or CP-Carrillo)
- 🔧 Improved cooling system (radiator Koyorad, oil cooler)
- Stage 3 (600+ hp):
- 🔧 Replacing the cylinder head with Tomei or JUN with enlarged channels
- 🔧 Dry sump (dry sump system)
- 🔧 Reinforced box (OS Giken or PPG)
One of the most popular tuning options is swap on RB28 or RB30. Increasing the displacement to 2.8–3.0 liters allows you to get more power at the same speed, reducing the load on the engine. However, such a swap requires modification of the mounts, cooling system and ECU settings.
What happens if you don't upgrade the fuel system when you increase power?
With a power of over 400 hp. The stock injectors (370cc) do not have time to supply enough fuel, which leads to “starvation” of the engine. Symptoms: failures during sudden acceleration, detonation, overheating. In the worst case, destruction of the pistons or valves.
Operation and maintenance: how to extend the life of a legend
Nissan GT-R R34 - a machine that requires attentive attitude. Here are the key operating rules:
⚠️ Attention: Never turn off the engine immediately after active driving! Turbines require 1-2 minutes of idling to cool down. Otherwise, the oil in the turbines will coke, which will lead to their premature wear.
- 🛢️ Oil: Use only synthetics with viscosity
5W-40or10W-40(For example, Motul 300V or Liqui Moly Leichtlauf). Replacement interval is every 5–7 thousand km. - ⚙️ Transmission: Change the oil in the manual transmission and differentials every 30–40 thousand km. Recommended viscosity -
75W-90. - ❄️ Cooling: Monitor the antifreeze level and the condition of the radiator. Overheating is the main cause of cylinder head deformation.
- 🔋 Battery: R34 sensitive to voltage sags. Use a battery with a capacity of at least 60 Ah (for example, Optima YellowTop).
Pay special attention winter operation. All-wheel drive system ATTESA copes well with snow, but:
- Use winter tires with a speed rating of at least
H(For example, Bridgestone Blizzak LM-32). - Before the start of the season, check the condition of the drive shafts and CV joints - they wear out when driving in slushy snow.
- Avoid prolonged warm-ups at idle speed - this harms the turbines.
Regular diagnostics using CONSULT or Nissan Data Scan will help identify problems at an early stage. It is especially important to monitor parameters AFR (fuel-air ratio) and boost pressure (boost pressure).
Cost of ownership: how much does it cost to maintain an R34 GT-R
Purchase Nissan GT-R R34 - just the beginning of the expenses. The car requires significant investment in maintenance, especially if we are talking about a tuned copy. Here are the estimated prices for basic work and spare parts (as of 2026):
| Node/Job | Cost (RUB) | Frequency |
|---|---|---|
| Changing oil and filters | 8 000–12 000 | Every 5,000 km |
| Replacing timing belt + rollers | 25 000–40 000 | Every 80,000 km |
| Rebuild turbines (pair) | 80 000–150 000 | Every 100,000 km |
| Clutch replacement (kit) | 50 000–120 000 | Every 50,000–80,000 km |
| Diagnostics + ECU chipping | 30 000–100 000 | For modifications |
Insurance cost R34 in Russia depends on the region and engine power. On average CASCO costs 150–300 thousand rubles. per year, and OSAGO — 20–40 thousand rubles. (taking into account increasing factors for sports cars).
If you are planning tuning, be prepared for additional costs:
- 💰 Turbokit (for example, HKS GT1000) - from 300,000 rub.
- 💰 Reinforced box (OS Giken) - from 500,000 rub.
- 💰 Control system (Haltech Elite) - from 200,000 rub.
Where to buy and how not to run into a “pig in a poke”
Market Nissan GT-R R34 filled with both original cars and replicas or “swapped” copies. Here where to look and what to pay attention to:
- 🌍 Japan:
- Auctions USS Tokyo, Goo-Net, CarFromJapan.
- Pros: large selection, original cars.
- Cons: high delivery cost (~300–500 thousand rubles), risk of hidden problems.
- 🇷🇺 Russia:
- Websites Drom.ru, Auto.ru, specialized groups in Telegram.
- Pros: you can inspect the car in person, there are no problems with customs clearance.
- Cons: prices are often inflated, there are a lot of “re-swap” cars.
- 🇪🇺 Europe:
- Venues Mobile.de (Germany), PistonHeads (UK).
- Pros: strict requirements for technical condition.
- Cons: high prices, possible problems with PTS.
When inspecting, pay attention to:
- Match the VIN number on the body and in the documents.
- Availability of original engine (block number must match the data in Nissan).
- The condition of the side members and sills (often rotting from the inside).
- System operation ATTESA (checked by test drive on a slippery surface).
- Presence of traces of welding or non-original painting (may indicate an accident).
⚠️ Attention: Many R34 in Russia they have “gray” customs clearance schemes or fake PTS. Before buying, check the car's history through the service traffic police or Autocode. If a seller offers to register a car under a general power of attorney, this is 100% fraud.
FAQ: Answers to frequently asked questions about the 2000 Nissan GT-R R34
Can the R34 GT-R be driven as a daily driver?
Technically yes, but it's irrational. The car requires frequent maintenance, consumes a lot of fuel (15–20 l/100 km in the city) and has a stiff suspension. In addition, the high risk of theft or damage in an accident makes R34 more like a collector's or weekend car.
What oil is better to fill in RB26DETT?
The optimal choice is synthetic oil with tolerances API SN or SM and viscosity 5W-40 or 10W-40. Popular options:
- Motul 300V Power 5W-40 — the best choice for tuned engines.
- Liqui Moly Leichtlauf High Tech 5W-40 — good price/quality balance.
- Castrol Edge 10W-60 - Suitable for extreme loads.
The main thing is do not use semi-synthetics and monitor replacement intervals (5–7 thousand km).
How much is an original 2000 R34 GT-R worth in good condition?
Prices vary greatly depending on mileage, history and modifications:
- Japan: 8–15 million rubles. (depending on version and mileage).
- Russia: 10–25 million rubles. (original cars with documents).
- Europe/USA: $50-100 thousand (due to growing popularity as a collector's car).
Versions V-Spec II And Nür cost 20–30% more than standard ones. Used cars less than 50 thousand km are considered rare and are valued at 2–3 times higher than average market prices.
Is it possible to install modern multimedia on the R34 without spoiling the interior?
Yes, but it requires caution. Popular solutions:
- Installation Android Auto radio in a regular place (for example, Pioneer AVH-Z5200BT).
- Wireless integration CarPlay via adapters type Alpine Halo9.
- Hidden installation of the tablet in the glove compartment or under the dashboard.
It is important to keep the original MFD (digital tidy), since it is part of the history of the model. Many owners install modern multimedia, but leave the standard system in working order.
Which tires are best for the R34 GT-R?
The choice of tires depends on your driving style:
- For everyday use: Michelin Pilot Sport 4 (size
235/45 R17front and265/40 R17rear). - For track: Toyo R888R or Nitto NT01 (semi-slicks).
- For drift: Federal 595 RS-R or Achilles ATR Sport 2.
- For winter: Bridgestone Blizzak LM-32 or Michelin Pilot Alpin 5.
Tire pressure: 2.2–2.4 bar front and 2.0–2.2 bar rear (depending on load).