Nissan GT-R R34 (1999): legendary Japanese monster with RB26DETT

Transmission GT-R R34 - that's a different story. 6-speed manual transmission Getrag (model GTS-63B) was considered one of the best in its class, but had weaknesses: the synchronizers of 1–2 gears wore out during aggressive driving, and the clutch Nissan (single disc, 240 mm) required replacement after 50–60 thousand km when tuning. All-wheel drive system ATTESA E-TS Pro with electronically controlled torque distribution (up to 50:50) made the car incredibly drivable, but its sensors and hydraulic unit often failed after 20 years of use.

Suspension Multi-Link front and rear provided excellent directional stability, but the original shock absorbers Bilstein by 1999 they were softer than in early R34s. This was done to improve comfort, but enthusiasts often replaced them with sporty counterparts from Tein or Cusco.

Options and rare versions: how to distinguish Nismo from a regular R34

In 1999 Nissan offered GT-R R34 in several configurations, but the most desirable for collectors were the versions from the division Nismo (Nissan Motorsport). Only officially released for the Japanese market 19 copies Nismo 400R - the most powerful and rare modification with a motor 400 hp in stock. However, cars with packages are much more common Nismo S-tune or Nismo R-tune, which can be identified by the following characteristics:

It is important to understand that many Nismo-parts (for example, steering wheel Nismo 350 mm or titanium pedals) were installed optionally, so the presence of one or two parts does not make the car complete Nismo-version. The most reliable way to check is VIN code and original documentation from Nissan. For example, at 400R VIN starts with BNR34-400001.

⚠️ Attention: There are many fakes on the market Nismo, where replica body kits and stickers are installed. Original parts Nismo have an engraving with a serial number and a logo in the form of a red circle with a white letter "N".

Weaknesses and common problems of the 1999 GT-R R34

Despite its legendary status, GT-R R34 after 20+ years of operation has a number of critical issueswhich can result in costly repairs. Here are the key points to pay attention to:

• 🔥 Problems with the RB26DETT engine:
  • Wear oil pump - with mileage over 100 thousand km often requires replacement.
  • Seizures on cylinder walls due to poor quality oil or overheating (typical for cars with tuning).
  • Leaks through valve cover gasket and rear crankshaft oil seal.
• ⚙️ Transmission:
  • Synchronizer wear 1–2 gears in a box Getrag.
  • Leaks from transfer case and front differential.
  • Failure of system sensors ATTESA, which leads to all-wheel drive blocking.
• 💡 Electronics:
  • Denial ECU (especially if chip tuning was previously carried out).
  • Problems with immobilizer - many owners turn it off due to failures.
  • Corrosion of connectors in wiring harnesses (typical for cars in humid climates).

One of the most non-obvious problems - this is corrosion of subframe and side members. Unlike the body, which R34 galvanized, the subframe rusts from the inside, and this can only be detected on a lift. It is also worth checking the condition fuel tank - in old cars it often becomes covered with rust inside, which leads to clogging of the fuel system.

Tuning and modifications: how to properly increase power

Modification RB26DETT is a separate culture, but many owners allow critical errors, which reduce engine life. Here are the basic rules for safe tuning:

1. Stage 1 (up to 400 hp):
   • Firmware ECU (For example, Power FC or Haltech).
   • Installation of downpipes 3.5" and exhaust 4".
   • Replacing the intercooler with a more efficient one (for example, GReddy).
2. Stage 2 (400–500 hp):
   • Reinforced fuel injectors (550–740 cc).
   • Turbines Garrett GT2860 or Tomei M82.
   • Increased grip (e.g. Nismo Twin Plate).
3. Stage 3 (500+ hp):
   • Forged pistons and connecting rods (eg. JE Pistons or Manley).
   • Reinforced crankshaft (N1 or Tomei).
   • Methanol or nitrous oxide injection system.

One of the most common misconceptions is the installation large turbines to a stock engine. For example, Garrett GT35R will give an increase in power, but due to the lag and the discrepancy between the compressor and the engine volume, the service life RB26 will be reduced by 2–3 times. Optimal balance for street use - turbines Garrett GT2871 or HKS GT-SS.

Prices for 1999 Nissan GT-R R34: what affects the cost

Cost 1999 GT-R R34 on the market varies from $30 000 for a tattered copy up to $200 000+ for collectible cars with mileage less than 50,000 km. Here are the key factors influencing the price:

• 📊 Mileage and history: Cars with mileage up to 80,000 km and a full service history cost 30–50% more.
• 🇯🇵 Origin: JDM-versions (for the Japanese market) are valued higher than export ones EDM or ADM.
• 🔧 Modifications: Tuned cars lose value if there is no documentation for modifications. The exception is examples with professional construction (for example, from Mine's or Top Secret).
• 🎨 Color: The rarest and most expensive shades - Midnight Purple III (metallic purple) and Millennium Jade (green).
• 📄 Documents: Availability of original Japanese Export Certificate And Auction Sheet adds 10–15% to cost.

On the secondary market there are often cars with twisted run or counterfeits Nismo. To avoid being scammed, we recommend:

1. Check the car through services like CarVertical or JDM Buyer’s Guide.
2. Require original service book with maintenance marks.
3. Inspect the car on a lift (especially the subframe and side members).
4. Check the VIN to ensure it matches the year of manufacture (for example, BNR34-00**** for 1999).

⚠️ Attention: Cars imported from Japan through auctions USS Tokyo or Nagoya, often have hidden problems. For example, R34 with a rating of "R" (repair) on the auction sheet could have been in an accident, even if they look perfect in appearance.

Comparison with competitors: GT-R R34 vs Supra vs Evo VI

Late 90s Nissan GT-R R34 competed with such legends as Toyota Supra (A80) And Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI. Each of these cars had its pros and cons:

GT-R R34 beats competitors thanks to ATTESA E-TS Pro - the most advanced all-wheel drive system of that time. However Supra easier to tune due to a more durable block 2JZ, and Evo VI cheaper to maintain. The choice depends on the goals: if needed racing car with perfect handling — R34, if high power project — Supra, and if budget rally car — Evo VI.

Operation and maintenance: tips for owners

Service GT-R R34 requires a special approach. Here are the key recommendations:

• 🛢️ Oil: Use only synthetics 5W-40 or 10W-50 (For example, Motul 300V or Red Line). Change every 5,000 km — RB26DETT sensitive to the quality of the lubricant.
• ⚡ Spark plugs and wires: Optimal choice - NGK BCPR7ES or Denso Iridium. Change every 20,000 km.
• 🔥 Turbines: After a long trip, let the engine run 1–2 minutes at idle to cool the turbos.
• 🔧 Suspension: Every 80,000 km check the silent blocks and ball joints - they wear out faster than on conventional cars.

One of the most common mistakes owners make is ignoring the cooling system. R34 prone to overheating, especially in traffic jams. We recommend:

• Install an additional radiator (for example, Setrab).
• Replace the thermostat with 74°C (instead of stock 82°C).
• Use antifreeze Toyota Red - it is better compatible with aluminum parts.

FAQ: answers to frequently asked questions about the 1999 Nissan GT-R R34