Replacing rear pads on a Nissan Almera: Drum assembly

The braking system is one of the critical safety elements of any vehicle, and Nissan Almera in this regard is no exception. The rear brakes on this model are made in the form of a drum mechanism, which is highly reliable, but requires periodic maintenance. Many owners are faced with the need to replace the pads when they hear a characteristic grinding noise or notice an increase in braking distance, but are afraid to undertake this procedure on their own due to the imaginary complexity.

In fact, replacing the rear brake pads on Nissan Almera - this is a task that is feasible for any car owner who has a basic set of tools and a desire to save money on a service center. The main difference between a drum mechanism and a disk mechanism is its closed design, where all elements are located inside the housing, which requires careful disassembly. Understanding the operating principle of the drive and clamps will allow you to quickly and efficiently complete the job, returning the car to factory braking characteristics.

Preparing the workplace and necessary tools

Before you begin to physically impact the suspension components, it is necessary to organize a safe and ergonomic work space. You will need a jack, reliable trestle stands and a set of keys, since wheel nuts and brake components often become stuck due to reagents and dust. Failure to prepare may result in personal injury or damage to vehicle parts.

To work, you will need specific tools that may not be included in a standard car kit. The key element here is a spring puller or special pliers, without which dismantling the return springs turns into torture. Also be sure to have brake cleaner, guide lube and a new brake fluid for topping up the tank if necessary.

• 🛠️ Set of socket wrenches and sockets (including 10, 12, 17, 21 mm)
• 🔧 Brake pad puller or long-nose pliers
• 🧪Brake Cleaner and lithium grease
• 🔨 Hammer with rubber tip and spatula

It is important to make sure that the car is on a level surface and securely secured. If you plan to change the pads on only one side, be sure to put the car on the handbrake, but be sure to release it before working on the drum.

Removing the wheel and drum: the main difficulties

Removing the wheel is just the first step, followed by the trickiest part of the job: removing the drum itself. On Nissan Almera the drum may become tightly stuck to the hub due to corrosion or deformation of the metal when heated. Simply removing it with your hands will not work; you will need physical force or the use of a special puller.

Before removing the drum, you need to check that the handbrake is not fully tightened. If the mechanism is not released, the shoes will rest against the drum, preventing it from being removed. In some cases, it is necessary to unscrew the guide screws that hold the drum to the hub, although on many modifications they are missing or stick so tightly that it is easier to cut them off.

⚠️ Attention: Never try to knock out the drum by hitting the work surface with a hammer! This can lead to the formation of cracks in the metal, which will make the part unsuitable for further use and require complete replacement of the unit.

If the drum does not budge, use a screw puller that screws into special holes on the drum and pushes it out evenly. You can also gently tap the inside of the drum with a hammer (not the working surfaces!), alternating blows from different sides, to destroy the rust layer.

• 🔨 Gently tap the drum through the wooden spacer
• 🔧 Use a puller if the drum cannot be removed manually
• 🧼 Treat the junction of the hub and drum with cleaner

After removing the drum, you will have full access to the insides of the mechanism. Inspect the working surface of the drum for deep grooves, cracks or signs of overheating. If wear exceeds acceptable limits, replacing the pads alone will not solve the safety problem.

Disassembling the mechanism and removing old pads

Now that the drum is removed, you are presented with a complex structure of springs, levers and the pads themselves. Do not rush to remove all the parts at once, since the order in which they are installed is critical for the correct operation of the brakes. Remember or photograph the location of all elements to avoid assembly errors.

The main task is to remove the return springs that hold the pads pressed. To do this, use special tongs or powerful pliers. Be extremely careful as the springs are under high tension and can fly out at high speed, causing injury to your face or eyes. Use safety glasses!

After removing the springs, you need to disconnect the lower spacer bar and the handbrake lever. The lever is attached to the block with a cotter pin or nut, which must be carefully unfastened. Don't lose the spring washers and retainers; they often rust and break during dismantling, requiring replacement.

⚠️ Attention: If you plan to change only one pad, be sure to replace the second one on that axle. The difference in wear will lead to uneven braking and the car skidding when the pedal is pressed hard.

Inspect the condition of the guide pads and base plate. Severe rust or scoring can cause new pads to not move freely, causing them to wear out quickly and overheat. Sand the surfaces with fine sandpaper and apply a thin layer of heat-resistant lubricant.

• 🔍 Inspect the base plate for corrosion
• 🧽 Clean the guides from dirt and old grease
• 🔧 Check the integrity of the cotter pins and clamps

What to do if the cotter pin breaks?

If a cotter pin breaks and part of it remains inside the hole, use a thin drill bit or tweezers to remove the broken pieces. As a last resort, you can carefully drill out the hole and install a new retainer of a larger diameter, but this requires pinpoint precision.

Installing new pads and adjusting the drive

Installing new pads begins with checking that they match the original parts. Make sure that the friction linings fit tightly to the metal base and are free of defects. Apply a special high-temperature lubricant to the contact points of the pads with the base plate and guides, excluding the grease from getting on the friction lining.

The mechanism is assembled in the reverse order. First, the pads are installed, then the handbrake lever and spacer bar are attached. Pay special attention to the installation of return springs: they must be securely fixed in the grooves. If the springs are old and have lost their elasticity, they must be replaced, otherwise the pads will not fully move away from the drum.

An important step is to check the travel of the handbrake lever. After assembling the mechanism, but before installing the drum, you should check whether the shoes move apart when the lever is lifted. If the mechanism does not work, check that it is assembled correctly and that all springs are present. The gap adjustment occurs automatically the first time you press the brake pedal during operation, but the initial setting is critical.

Reinstall the drum. If it sits tight, check to see if the pads are touching its edges. If necessary, spread the pads slightly through the adjusting mechanism (if available) or lightly tap the drum with a rubber mallet. After installing the drum, put on the wheel and lower the car to the ground.

• 🛠️ Install new pads on the guides
• 🔧 Tension the return springs until they click
• 🔨 Check the free play of the handbrake lever

Checking and testing the brake system

After all the wheels are assembled, it is necessary to check the functionality of the system. Don't go on the road right away! First, jack up the car and check the rotation of each wheel. It should be free, without noticeable resistance or grinding. If the wheel spins slowly, it means the pads are not moving away from the drum and the adjustment needs to be rechecked.

Lower the vehicle to the ground and press the brake pedal several times until it feels firm. This is necessary so that the pistons in the brake cylinder take their working position and press the pads against the drum. If the pedal fails, there may be air in the system and will require bleeding.

The first kilometers of movement should be done in a gentle manner. Avoid sudden braking by giving new pads time to break in. A squeaking or metallic sound may be normal in the first few days, but if it persists or gets worse, you should go back to the garage and check that the installation is correct.

How can you tell if the pads are worn in?

Grinding in is evidenced by the absence of extraneous sounds when braking and stable pedal force. Typically this process takes from 100 to 300 kilometers depending on driving style.

Also pay attention to the brake fluid level in the reservoir. When replacing pads, the pistons move out and the fluid level may drop slightly. Add fluid to the MAX line, using only the type recommended by the manufacturer (usually DOT-4), and make sure there are no leaks at the connections.

• 🚗 Test drive at low speed
• 🛑 Test your braking performance in a safe area
• 👀 Inspect the wheels for brake fluid leaks

Typical errors and maintenance nuances

Many owners Nissan Almera make the mistake of trying to replace the pads without cleaning the rust off the backing plate. This causes the new pads to jam and begin to overheat even under light braking. Regular cleaning and lubrication of the guides will extend the life of the brake system for years.

Another common problem is the use of low-quality spare parts. Cheap pads may have an uneven layer of friction material, which will cause the drum to beat and the brake pedal to vibrate. Choose trusted manufacturers and original parts to avoid repeat costs.

⚠️ Attention: It is prohibited to use universal lubricant (for example, grease) for brake mechanisms! It cannot withstand high temperatures and can destroy the rubber cylinder seals.

It is also worth remembering that the brake drum has its own resource. If there are deep grooves on the inner surface that cannot be removed during visual inspection, then installing new pads on such a drum will lead to their rapid wear. In such cases, it is recommended to bore the drum or replace it entirely.

Parameter	Value for Nissan Almera	Note
Rear brake type	Drums	Durable but requires adjustment
Working pad thickness	Min. 1.5 mm	If worn out, urgent replacement is required
Max. drum diameter	203.5 mm	Measured with a micrometer
Liquid type	DOT-4	Replace every 2 years
Wheel tightening torque	105 Nm	Use a torque wrench

Timely maintenance of rear brakes Nissan Almera - This is not only a safety issue, but also cost savings. Replacing the pads yourself allows you to avoid overpayments for service, and careful attention to detail will ensure smooth and predictable operation of the braking system in any road conditions.

Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

How long does it take to replace rear pads on a Nissan Almera?

For an experienced technician, the replacement takes about 40-60 minutes per wheel. A beginner may need 1.5-2 hours, especially at the stage of removing a stuck drum.

Do I need to change the drum along with the pads?

No, it is necessary to change the drum only if its wear exceeds the permissible limits (more than 203.5 mm) or there are deep cracks. In most cases, it is enough to replace the pads and bore the drum.

How to check pad wear without removing the drum?

It is difficult to do this on a Nissan Almera, since the mechanism is closed. The only way is to remove the drum. Some technicians use an endoscope through a hole in the drum, but this does not always give an accurate result.

Why do the brakes squeak after replacement?

Creaking can occur due to lack of lubrication at the contact points, dust on the linings, or poor quality pads. It is also possible that the pads were not ground into the drum.

Is it possible to drive a Nissan Almera with one replaced pad?

Strongly not recommended. The braking force will be uneven, which will lead to the car skidding and accelerated wear of the second pad. Always change pads in pairs on the same axle.