The wheel bearing is one of the key elements of the chassis Nissan Almera, on which traffic safety directly depends. Its wear is manifested by a characteristic hum, vibration on the steering wheel or wheel play. If these symptoms are ignored, the consequences can be critical: from premature tire wear to complete wheel lock-up at speed.

In this article we will take a closer look at how to replace the front wheel bearing with Almera G15 (2013–2018) and Almera G16 (2019–present) with your own hands. You will learn what tools you will need, how to properly remove and install the bearing, and what mistakes beginners most often make. We will separately focus on the selection of spare parts - original articles, analogues and their average cost.

Signs of a wheel bearing failure on a Nissan Almera

The first symptoms of bearing wear often go unnoticed, especially if the driver is accustomed to “background” noise. However there is 5 Key Signs, which signal the need for diagnostics:

  • 🔊 Hum or howl on the wheel side, intensifying at speeds of 60–90 km/h. The sound may disappear when the steering wheel is turned towards the faulty bearing.
  • 🌀 Vibration on the steering wheel or body, especially during acceleration. Often confused with wheel imbalance, but the vibration from the bearing is more “ragged”.
  • 🚗 Wheel play when rocking it in a vertical plane (checked on a jack). Even the smallest gap is a reason for replacement.
  • 🔥 Hub overheating after the trip. Just touch the wheel with your hand - if one side is noticeably hot, the bearing requires attention.
  • 🛑 Uneven tire wear on the one hand. The bearing affects the wheel alignment angles, which leads to “eating” the tread.

On Nissan Almera G15/G16 The front wheel bearing usually serves 80–120 thousand km, but the period depends on operating conditions. Aggressive driving through potholes, frequent off-road trips or poor-quality lubrication reduce the service life by 1.5–2 times.

⚠️ Attention: If while driving there is metallic grinding or the wheel begins to “stick”, operating the vehicle is strictly prohibited! These are signs of complete bearing failure, which can lead to the hub seizing while driving.
📊 How often do you check the condition of bearings?
  • Every 20 thousand km
  • Only when there is noise
  • Once a year before maintenance
  • Never checked

What tools and spare parts are needed for replacement?

To replace the front wheel bearing with Almera will be required specialized tool. Without it, the risk of damaging parts or not tightening fastenings increases significantly. Here's the full list:

  • 🔧 Jack and stops (be sure to insure your car!).
  • 🔨 Wheel bearing puller (For example, KUKKO 204-2 or equivalent).
  • 🔩 Socket heads at 17, 19, 22 and 30 mm (for the hub nut).
  • 🔧 Torque wrench (hub nut tightening torque - 200–220 Nm).
  • 🛠️ Hammer and drift (to press out the old bearing).
  • 🧲 Magnet (so as not to lose the retaining ring).
  • 🔧 Vise (to fix the hub when replacing).

Regarding spare parts, the situation is simpler: original bearing for Almera G15/G16 has an article number 40520-BM00A (manufacturer NTN or Koyo). Average price - 2 500–3 500 ₽. Among the analogues, the following have proven themselves well:

Brand Article Price, ₽ Features
SKF VKBA 3603 2 800–3 200 High resource, resistant to stress
FAG 713616070 3 000–3 500 Original quality, minimal play
NSK 40520-N1000 2 600–3 000 Good protection against moisture and dust
Febi 22616 2 000–2 400 Budget option, suitable for a quiet ride

In addition to the bearing, you may need:

  • 🔄 Hub nut (40528-BM000, ~500 ₽) - often deformed when removed.
  • 🛡️ Bearing grease (For example, Molykote BR2 Plus).
  • 🧲 Retaining ring (if the old one is damaged).
⚠️ Attention: Do not use Litol or Solid oil for bearing lubrication! These compounds cannot withstand high temperatures and are quickly washed out. Only specialized lubricants based on molybdenum or lithium.
💡

Before purchasing a bearing, check it for play in the store. To do this, take the part by the inner ring and swing it in the radial direction - the slightest gap indicates a defect.

Preparing the vehicle: removing the wheel and brake disc

Before starting work disconnect the carby removing the terminal from the battery. This will prevent the ABS sensor from accidentally triggering. Next, follow the steps:

  1. Raise the car on the jack and secure with stops. Remove the wheel.
  2. Unscrew the caliper guides (two 17 mm bolts) and hang the caliper on a wire so as not to damage the brake hose.
  3. Remove the brake disc. If it gets stuck, treat the joint with WD-40 and carefully tap it with a hammer through a wooden spacer.
  4. Unscrew the hub nut (30 mm). It is tightened with a large torque, so use a lever or impact wrench. On Almera G16, the nut may have a left-hand thread - check by the mark on its surface!

After removing the nut, remove thrust washer and carefully pull the hub off the axle. If it is tight, use a puller or evenly tap the inner race of the bearing with a hammer.

De-energize the car (remove the battery terminal)|Secure the car on supports|Remove the wheel and brake caliper|Unscrew the hub nut (torque 200–220 Nm)|Remove the brake disc and hub-->

At this stage, inspect hub oil seal And CV boot. If they are damaged or have traces of grease, replace them along with the bearing.

Removing and installing a new bearing: step-by-step instructions

The most important stage is pressing out the old bearing and pressing in the new one. It is important here to avoid three critical errors:

  1. Damage to the seat in the hub (will lead to wheel runout).
  2. Incorrect installation of the retaining ring (the bearing will have play).
  3. Distortion during pressing (will reduce bearing life by 2–3 times).

Algorithm of actions:

  1. Remove the retaining ring on the back side of the hub (use round nose pliers or a special puller).
  2. Press out the old bearing:
    • Place the hub in a vise.
    • Use a hammer to knock the part out evenly through the mandrel (or old bearing).
    • Clean the seat from dirt and corrosion.
  3. Install a new bearing:
    • Apply a thin layer of lubricant to the seat.
    • Carefully press in the bearing only through the outer ring (hitting the inside will cause damage!).
    • Use a puller or vice to apply even pressure.
  • Install the retaining ring and check that it fits tightly into the groove.

    • After installation check the bearing for play: Rock the hub radially and axially. The permissible gap is no more than 0.05 mm.

    What to do if the bearing does not press in?

    If the bearing does not seat completely, check:

    1. Cleanliness of the seat (even small chips can interfere).

    2. Alignment - the bearing must fit strictly perpendicularly.

    3. Dimensions of parts (sometimes you come across non-original hubs with a non-standard diameter).

    As a last resort, you can cool the bearing in the freezer (–20°C for 1 hour), and heat the hub with a hair dryer to +60°C - this will make pressing in easier.

    Assembly and testing: how to avoid mistakes

    After installing the bearing, reassemble the assembly in reverse order, but note key nuances:

    • 🔧 Hub nut is delayed in two stages:
      1. Pre-tightening (100 Nm).
      2. Final (200–220 Nm) after lowering the car to the ground.
  • 🛡️ Brake disc Before installation, clean off rust and lubricate the hub copper grease (will prevent “sticking”).
  • 🚗 Check after assembly:
    • Spin the wheel - it should rotate without noise or snags.
    • Carry out a test drive at a speed of 60–80 km/h, listening for extraneous sounds.

    • Common mistake - retightening the hub nut. This leads to overheating of the bearing and its premature failure. Use a torque wrench!

    ⚠️ Attention: After bearing replacement be sure to check the wheel alignment angles! Even slight displacement of the hub affects the suspension geometry.

    1. Quality of pressing (misalignment is possible).

    2. Condition of the oil seal (may leak lubricant).

    3. Tightening the hub nut (undertightening or overtightening).

    4. Condition of the brake disc (beating can simulate bearing noise).-->

    Cost of service replacement vs self-repair

    Front wheel bearing replacement cost Nissan Almera in services varies depending on the region and service station level:

    Service type Cost of work, ₽ Opening hours Warranty
    Official dealer 5 000–7 000 2–3 hours 12 months
    Independent service 3 000–4 500 1.5–2 hours 6 months
    Garage foreman 1 500–2 500 1–1.5 hours No
    On your own 0 (spare parts only) 3–5 hours —

    The savings when replacing yourself are obvious, but keep in mind hidden costs:

    • 🔧 Purchase of a tool (puller, torque wrench) - from 3,000 ₽.
    • 🚗 Risk of error (for example, damage to the ABS sensor when removing the hub).
    • ⏱️ Time - without experience, work can stretch throughout the day.

    If you have never done such repairs, it is better to contact a service center. However, for experienced car owners, replacing the bearing with Almera - a task of medium complexity that can be completed in 2–3 hours.

    Frequently asked questions about replacing a wheel bearing on a Nissan Almera

    Is it possible to drive with a humming bearing?

    Short-term (1-2 weeks) - yes, but only if there is no vibration or play. However, remember: a worn bearing may collapse at any moment, especially when heated. At speeds above 100 km/h, the risk of wheel seizure increases significantly. At the first sign of trouble, plan a replacement.

    How to distinguish bearing noise from tire noise?

    Bearing noise has metallic shade and intensifies when the steering wheel is turned towards the faulty wheel. The tire noise is more “dull” and does not depend on the direction of movement. Also, the bearing often “howls” at one speed (usually 60–80 km/h), and the tire makes noise evenly.

    Do I need to replace the bearing in pairs?

    No, this is not necessary. Bearings wear out independently of each other. Changing in pairs only makes sense if:

    • The second bearing also has play or noise.
    • The car is used in difficult conditions (for example, a taxi).
    • You are replacing bearings as part of a comprehensive suspension repair.
    What happens if you don't tighten the hub nut?

    A loose nut will result in wheel play and accelerated bearing wear. When moving, this will appear as:

    • Vibration in the steering wheel when braking.
    • Uneven wear of brake pads.
    • Shock loads on the hub, which can damage the ABS sensor.

      • Always use a torque wrench and check the tightening torque!

    Which bearing is better - original or analogue?

    Original bearings (NTN/Koyo) last longer, but are often counterfeited. High-quality analogues (SKF, FAG, NSK) is no worse if you buy from trusted suppliers. The main thing is to avoid no-name brands (For example, Febest, Trialli), which can fall apart after 20–30 thousand km.