Removing the starter Nissan Almera - a task that every owner of this car faces sooner or later. A faulty starter manifests itself with characteristic clicks when turning the key, slow rotation of the crankshaft, or a complete lack of response to starting. If the diagnostics confirm the problem in this particular node, there are two options left: contact the service or try to solve it yourself.
In this article we will analyze the process of dismantling the starter on all generations Almera (including G15, N16 And B10), we will indicate the necessary tools, show connection diagrams and warn against common mistakes. We will pay special attention to the nuances that even experienced car owners often miss - for example, mandatory check of the solenoid relay before removing the starter and the correct position of the Bendix gear when reinstalling.
Preparing for work: tools and safety precautions
Before you begin dismantling, make sure you have everything you need. The absence of even one tool can turn a simple procedure into a painful process. Here is the minimum set:
- 🔧 Set of heads (required) 10 mm, 12 mm And 14 mm) with extension
- 🔨 Ratchet handle or crank
- 🔩 Star key
T30(for some models Almera N16) - 🔌 Screwdrivers: Phillips (
PH2) and flat (for disconnecting terminals) - 🔋 Multimeter (for checking circuits)
- 🧲 Magnet on the telescopic handle (so as not to lose bolts in the engine compartment)
- 📸 Phone or camera (to record the location of the wires)
Preparing the car is equally important. Stop the engine, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery (this will prevent a short circuit) and let the car cool down if it has been running. Work in a well-lit place - it is better to use a portable lamp, since there is no standard light in the engine compartment Almera often not enough.
⚠️ Attention: If your Nissan Almera equipped with a system NATTS (immobilizer with a chip in the key), do not disconnect the battery for more than 10 minutes. This may reset the settings and require reprogramming the key.
- Never repaired it myself
- Minor repairs only (lamps, filters)
- I've removed the starter/alternator before.
- Professional car mechanic
Where is the starter located on Nissan Almera?
The location of the starter depends on the generation and type of engine. In most cases, it is attached to the gearbox on the flywheel side, but access to it may be complicated by other components. Here are the diagrams for different modifications:
| Model | Engine type | Starter location | Difficulty of access |
|---|---|---|---|
| Almera G15 (2012–present) | 1.6 HR16DE |
Lower part of the gearbox, under the intake manifold | Medium (requires unprotection) |
| Almera N16 (2000–2006) | 1.5 QG15DE |
Right side of the engine (in the direction of travel) | Easy (good access) |
| Almera Classic B10 (2006–2012) | 1.6 HR16DE |
Under the thermostat, next to the oil filter | High (nozzles interfere) |
On Almera G15 The starter is often covered by a plastic engine guard and intake manifold. To get to it, you will have to remove the air duct and move the wiring harness aside. On N16 access is easier - the starter is visible immediately after removing the battery terminal.
Before removing the starter, take photographs of the location of all wires and terminals. This will save time during reassembly and help avoid connection errors.
Step-by-step instructions for removing the starter
Let's look at the process using an example Nissan Almera G15 with engine HR16DE, since this is the most common combination. For other models, the nuances are indicated in separate blocks.
-
Disconnect the battery. Remove the negative terminal, then the positive one. If there is oxidation on the terminals, clean them with a brush.
-
Remove the engine protection. On G15 it is secured with 4 bolts
10 mm. On N16 there may be no protection. -
Disconnect the wires from the starter. First, remove the solenoid relay chip (it is usually red or black), then unscrew the positive wire nut (wrench
12 mm). -
Unscrew the mounting bolts. There are two or three of them (depending on the model): one on top (
14 mm), the rest below. On G15 The bottom bolt may be hidden under the bracket - it will have to be removed. -
Remove the starter. Gently pull it towards the front of the car. If it does not come out, check if the bendix (gear) is in the way - sometimes you have to turn the starter around its axis.
☑️ Checklist before removing the starter
On Almera N16 the process is simpler: after disconnecting the terminals, just unscrew two bolts (14 mm) and pull the starter up. The main thing is not to lose the washers, which often remain on the fasteners.
⚠️ Attention: On cars with automatic transmission, the starter may be partially covered by the box pan. Do not try to pull it out by force - first unscrew all the bolts and check for additional fasteners.
Checking the starter after removal
Before installing a new starter or repairing an old one, make sure that this is the problem. Here's how to check the main nodes:
- 🔋 Solenoid relay: Connect the positive battery cable to the top terminal of the relay, and the negative cable to the starter housing. A working relay will click and the Bendix gear will move out.
- 🔄 Electric motor: Apply voltage directly to the bottom terminal of the relay (where the positive wire was). If the starter spins, the engine is working.
- ⚙️ Bendix: Check the gear for wear and play. If the teeth are worn out or there is longitudinal runout, replacement is required.
- 🔌 Brushes and commutator: Disassemble the starter and inspect the brushes for wear (length less than 5 mm - critical wear). The collector must be free of burns.
If the starter does not respond to direct voltage supply, the problem may be a broken winding or a jammed armature. In this case, repairs are usually not cost-effective - it is cheaper to buy a new or used unit.
How to check the starter without removing it from the car?
Connect a multimeter in voltmeter mode to the positive terminal of the starter (where the thick wire from the battery goes). When you turn the key to the “Start” position, the voltage should drop by no more than 1–1.5 V. If the drop is greater, the problem is in the wires or battery, and not in the starter.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes when working with a starter. Here are the most common:
-
Incorrect installation of bendix. If the gear is misaligned or misaligned, the starter will make a grinding noise when starting. Always check that the bendix moves freely along the shaft.
-
Retightening of fastening bolts. This can lead to deformation of the starter flange or even a crack in the housing. Tighten the bolts firmly
25–30 Nm. -
Ignoring flywheel condition. If the flywheel teeth are worn, the new starter will quickly fail. Inspect the flywheel through the inspection window in the clutch housing.
-
Connecting wires in the wrong polarity. This is guaranteed to burn out the starter winding. Always refer to the diagram or photograph taken before removal.
Another common problem is people forgetting to clean the starter contacts and battery terminals. Oxidation increases resistance, causing the starter to not receive enough current. Use fine sandpaper or a special contact cleaner.
Before installing a new starter, always check the circuit from the ignition switch to the solenoid relay. Often the problem lies not in the starter, but in a broken wire or faulty lock relay.
Starter installation and first start
Installation of the starter is carried out in the reverse order, but there are several critical points:
-
Check the position of the bendix. The gear must be recessed into the starter housing. If it is pulled out, the starter will not engage.
-
Apply dielectric grease to the starter terminals. This will prevent oxidation and improve contact.
-
Tighten the bolts crosswise to avoid flange distortion.
-
After connecting the battery don't rush to start the car. First, turn the ignition on and check that all the lights on the dashboard are on (this will confirm that there is no short circuit).
When starting for the first time after replacing the starter, pay attention to:
- 🔊 Operating sound: It should be smooth, without grinding or vibration.
- ⚡ On-board voltage: When starting, it should not sag below
10 V. - ⏱️ Scroll time: The engine should start within 1–2 seconds (with a good battery).
If the starter turns slowly or jerkily, check:
- Quality of tightening of fastening bolts;
- Condition of flywheel teeth;
- The voltage at the starter terminals (must be at least
12.5 V).
FAQ: Frequently asked questions about Nissan Almera starter
The starter clicks but does not turn. What's the problem?
This is a typical sign of a problem solenoid relay or burning of contacts inside it. Also check:
- Battery charge (voltage must be at least
12.4 V). - The integrity of the positive wire from the battery to the starter (often chafed or oxidized).
- The state of the "mass" on the body and engine.
If the relay clicks, but the starter does not rotate, it is most likely burned out power contacts inside the relay or the brushes are worn out.
Can I repair the starter myself?
Yes, but this is only advisable for the following faults:
- Wear of brushes or commutator;
- Bendix jamming;
- Oxidation of the contacts of the retractor relay.
If the armature or stator winding burns out, repairs will cost more than buying a new starter. For Almera average price of a repair kit (brushes, bushings, relays) - approx. 1500–2500 ₽, while a new starter costs 5000–8000 ₽.
Which starter is better to buy as a replacement?
For Nissan Almera Starters of the following brands are suitable (indicating original numbers):
| Model Almera | Original number | Analogs (brand) |
|---|---|---|
| G15 (HR16DE) | 23300-4M000 |
Bosch 0 001 108 005, Denso 280000-8621 |
| N16 (QG15DE) | 23300-4M005 |
Valeo 438086, Delphi SS10103 |
When choosing, pay attention to power (must be at least 1.2 kW) and polarity (on Almera usually "standard", but check with the catalog).
How long does it take to replace a starter?
Time depends on the model and experience of the master:
- Almera N16:
30–60 minutes(easy access). - Almera G15:
1.5–2.5 hours(removal of protection and pipes is required). - Almera Classic B10:
2–3 hours(elements of the intake system interfere).
If this is your first time, please be patient - the process may take up to 4–5 hours, especially if you have to deal with stuck bolts.