Replacing the inner CV joint on a Nissan Almera Classic: when to change and how to do it right

Nissan Almera Classic (also known as B10 or N16 in some markets) is a reliable car, but even its transmission components wear out over time. One of the most vulnerable elements is internal CV joint (constant velocity joint), which operates under high loads. Its failure can result not only in an unpleasant crunch when turning, but also in complete blocking of the wheel while driving.

In this article we will look at how independently diagnose a malfunction of the internal CV joint on Almera Classic, what tools will be needed for replacement, and we will provide step-by-step instructions, taking into account typical mistakes of beginners. We will also compare original spare parts with analogues and give recommendations on the choice of lubricant. If you have never repaired a chassis, don’t worry: with the right approach, even a car owner with minimal experience can do the task.

Signs of a faulty internal CV joint on a Nissan Almera Classic

Inner CV joint on Almera Classic it fails less often than the external one, but its failure is more dangerous: it can appear suddenly, without preliminary “symptoms”. However, there are several key signs that will help you notice the problem in time:

• 🔊 Crunching or clicking noise when driving in a straight line (especially under load) - in contrast to the external CV joint, which crunches when turning.
• 🌀 Vibration at speeds of 60–90 km/h, which disappears during acceleration or braking. Often confused with wheel imbalance.
• 🛑 Jerks when starting off or “twitching” of the machine at low speeds (due to wear of the balls or race).
• 💧 Lubricant leaks on the CV joint boot or near the gearbox (if the boot ruptures).

Important: if the crunch is heard only when sharp acceleration or reversing, the problem is rather external CV joint. The inner joint exhibits itself at a uniform speed. For an accurate diagnosis, you can perform the following test:

⚠️ Attention: Do not confuse CV joint wear with a bad wheel bearing! The bearing hums at all speeds, and the CV joint only crunches under load. To check, lift the car on a jack and rock the wheel in a vertical plane - play indicates a bearing.

If the symptoms are confirmed, do not delay repairs. A worn CV joint may jam on the move, which will lead to an accident. Average resource of internal CV joint for Almera Classic — 150–200 thousand km, but with aggressive driving or damage to the boot, it fails earlier.

What tools and spare parts are needed for replacement?

To replace the inner CV joint with Nissan Almera Classic (1.5/1.6 l, front-wheel drive) you will need a standard set of tools, but there are also specific tools. Here's the full list:

Category	Name	Notes
Tools	30mm socket (for hub nut)	Preferably impact, with a long knob
Tools	CV joint puller (or pry bar + hammer)	To remove the joint from the drive
Tools	Jack and stops	Be sure to insure your car!
Consumables	New inner CV joint	Original Nissan 39310-4M000 or analogues
Consumables	CV joint boot with clamps	It is recommended to change even if the old one is intact
Consumables	Grease for CV joint (200–250 g)	Better to use molybdenum (For example, LIQUI MOLY LM47+)

For spare parts: original CV joint from Nissan will cost RUB 3,500–5,000, but there are high-quality analogues:

• 🔧 GKN (Loebro) — reliable brand, price ~2,800 rub.
• 🔧 SKF — premium option, ~4,200 rub.
• 🔧 Febi or TRW — budget, but proven (~2,000 rubles).

Advice: when purchasing a CV joint, pay attention to number of teeth on the spline - on Almera Classic there should be them 22 (unlike Almera N16, where there are 24 teeth). Also check the contents: the box should contain a retaining ring and lubricant (if not, buy it separately).

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the inner CV joint

The process of replacing the inner CV joint with Nissan Almera Classic can be divided into 3 stages: drive removal, replacing the hinge And reassembly. Work is performed on a pit or a lift. If you only have a jack, be sure to use safety stops!

Step 1: Removing the drive

1. Loosen the hub nut (it is tightened with a large torque - 200–230 Nm). Use a 30mm socket and a long wrench.
2. Raise the car, remove the wheel and brake disc. Disconnect the steering tip (unlock the nut and press out the pin with a puller).
3. Unscrew the two bolts securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle. Remove the CV joint from the hub by gently tapping it through the wooden spacer with a hammer.
4. Drain the oil from the gearbox (if you plan to remove the drive completely). Place the container and unscrew the drain plug.

Step 2. Dismantling the old CV joint

After removing the drive, clamp it in a vice (through soft pads so as not to damage it!). Next:

1. Remove the boot clamps and cut it off (if the boot is torn, the lubricant has already leaked out and the CV joint cannot be restored).
2. Using a puller or pry bar, knock down the retaining ring and remove the CV joint from the shaft. Be careful - there may be bearings inside!
3. Clean the shaft of old grease and inspect the spline for burrs.

Step 3. Installing a new CV joint

Before installing a new CV joint necessarily:

• 🧴 Apply fresh grease to the splined part of the shaft and inside the new CV joint (about 80-100 g).
• 🔄 Check if there is a retaining ring included in the kit (if not, use the old one).
• 🛡️ Install a new boot and secure it with clamps (do not overtighten!).

Slide the CV joint onto the shaft until the retaining ring clicks. Make sure it fits tightly - pull the drive in different directions. If there is play, repeat installation.

Step 4. Assembly and testing

Reassemble everything in reverse order. Pay special attention to:

• 🔩 The tightening torque of the hub nut (200–230 Nm).
• 🔧 The condition of the boot after installation - it should not twist.
• 🛢️ Check the oil level in the gearbox (add if necessary).

⚠️ Attention: After replacing the CV joint necessarily check the car while driving! Accelerate to 20–30 km/h and brake sharply - if you hear clicks, the CV joint is installed incorrectly or is damaged during installation.

What to do if the new CV joint crunches after installation?

If a crunching sound appears immediately after replacement, there are 3 possible reasons:

1. **Not enough lubrication** - disassemble and add (should be ~200 g per CV joint).

2. **The boot is damaged** - check the integrity and tightness of the clamps.

3. **Defective part** - if the CV joint crunches when cold, return it under warranty.

Typical mistakes when replacing CV joints and how to avoid them

Even experienced car owners sometimes make mistakes that lead to premature failure of the CV joint. Here are the most common mistakes and ways to prevent them:

1. Using an old boot. Many people save on the boot if it “seems to be intact.” However, microcracks or loss of elasticity will lead to dirt getting in and rapid wear of the CV joint. Always change the boot!
2. Incorrect lubrication. Some use Litol or Solid oil instead of specialized lubricant for CV joints. These compounds cannot withstand high temperatures and are “washed out” of the joint. Use only molybdenum grease.
3. Re-upholstery of boot clamps. If the clamps are tightened too much, they will cut through the rubber. The optimal force is when the boot fits tightly on the shaft, but does not deform.
4. Impact installation of CV joint. You cannot hit the CV joint directly with a hammer - this will damage the balls or the cage. Use only a soft spacer (wood, copper) or a special puller.

Another common mistake is Incorrect installation of the retaining ring. If it is not in place, the CV joint will play and quickly fail. Check the fixation of the ring after installation!

Also, many people forget about drive alignment during assembly. If the shaft is skewed, the CV joint will operate at an angle, which will accelerate its wear. To avoid this, before final tightening the hub nut, rock the drive in different directions - it should move smoothly, without jamming.

Comparison of the original CV joint and analogues: what to choose?

When choosing an inner CV joint for Nissan Almera Classic Car owners often face a dilemma: buy an original or save on an analogue? Let's look at the pros and cons of each option.

Parameter	Original (Nissan)	Premium analogue (SKF/GKN)	Budget analogue (Febi/TRW)
Price, rub.	4 500–5 000	3 500–4 200	1 800–2 500
Resource, thousand km	180–220	150–200	100–150
Quality of materials	High alloy steel, precision processing	Corrosion protected steel	Budget steel, possible backlash
Warranty	12–24 months	12 months	6 months
Features	Perfect compatibility, no need for modifications	Often better than the original in terms of wear resistance	May require adjustment or additional lubrication

Our verdict:

• 💰 If the budget allows - take the original or SKF/GKN. These CV joints will last longer and will not cause problems.
• 🔧 For temporary replacement will do Febi or TRW, but be prepared to replace it after 80–100 thousand km.
• ⚠️ Never buy no-name CV joints (for example, “AvtoVAZ” or Chinese without a brand). They often break down after 20–30 thousand km.

When purchasing an analogue, pay attention to country of origin. For example, GKN makes CV joints in Germany or Poland, and Febi — in Turkey or China (quality may vary). Also check if it is included retaining ring - some manufacturers do not include it.

When is it better to go to a service station: 3 cases

Although replacing the inner CV joint with Almera Classic is within the capabilities of most car owners, there are situations when it is better to trust the professionals:

1. No pit or lift. Working with a jack is not only inconvenient, but also dangerous - there is a risk of breaking the thread on the hub nut or damaging the gearbox.
2. The CV joint is stuck to the shaft. If a puller does not help, and a hammer only aggravates the situation, service station technicians use special heaters or hydraulic pullers.
3. Transmission seal needs to be replaced. When removing the drive, the box seal often leaks. Replacing it requires disassembling the gearbox, which is difficult to do without experience.

The cost of replacing the inner CV joint at a service station for Almera Classic amounts to 2,500–4,000 rub. (for one side). If you are not confident in your abilities or have never repaired a chassis, it is better not to take risks. Errors during replacement can result in gearbox breakdown or destruction of the axle shaft, and this is already a repair costing 20–30 thousand rubles.

It’s also worth going to a service station if, after replacing it yourself:

• 🔊 Appeared extraneous noise (howl, hum) at speed.
• 🌀 Feels it vibration on the steering wheel or body.
• 🛑 Car pulls to the side when braking.

⚠️ Attention: If, after replacing the CV joint, the light on the dashboard lights up ABS badgeMost likely, you have damaged the wheel speed sensor. It needs to be checked and replaced if necessary (costs ~1,500 rubles).

Prevention: how to extend the life of the CV joint on a Nissan Almera Classic

The service life of the inner CV joint depends not only on the quality of the part, but also on driving style and maintenance. By following simple recommendations, you can delay the replacement by 50–80 thousand km:

• 🚗 Avoid abrupt starts with the wheels turned out (especially in winter). This creates maximum load on the CV joint.
• 🛣️ Avoid deep holes — shocks to the suspension are transmitted to the drive and accelerate wear of the joint.
• 🔧 Check the anthers every 10–15 thousand km. Even a small crack will allow dirt to enter.
• 🛢️ Use high-quality gearbox oil. Old or cheap oil impairs the lubrication of differential bearings, which indirectly affects the life of the CV joint.
• 🌀 Adjust wheel alignment after replacing the CV joint or struts. Incorrect angles will accelerate wear on the joints.

Pay special attention winter operation. At low temperatures, the rubber of the boots hardens and they can crack. Treat the anthers before winter silicone grease (For example, WD-40 Specialist) - this will prevent cracking.

If you frequently drive off-road or tow a trailer, reduce the inspection interval for CV joints to 5–7 thousand km. Under such conditions, the anthers wear out 2–3 times faster.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about replacing a CV joint on a Nissan Almera Classic

Is it possible to drive with a crisp CV joint? How long will he last?

You can drive, but highly undesirable. A crunching sound indicates that the balls or race are already worn out and the CV joint may jam at any time (especially when making a sharp turn). On average, such a CV joint will last from 500 km to 2–3 thousand km, but it’s not worth the risk - replace it as soon as possible.

Do I need to drain the gearbox oil when replacing the inner CV joint?

Not always. If you remove only the drive on one side and do not touch the gearbox seal, it is not necessary to drain the oil. However, if the drive is “stuck” and has to be knocked out, there is a risk of damaging the oil seal - in this case it is better to drain the oil (~2 liters will be required to top up).

What is the tightening torque for the hub nut on Almera Classic?

Hub nut tightening torque - 200–230 Nm. This is a critically important parameter! If the nut is not tightened enough, the wheel may come loose while driving. If it is overtightened, the wheel bearing will be damaged. Use a torque wrench.

Is it possible to change only the boot without touching the CV joint?

Theoretically it is possible, but only if the CV joint is not crunching yet and there is no dirt inside. However, even in this case, it is recommended to wash the joint with kerosene and replace the lubricant. If the CV joint is already making sounds, replace one boot won't help - the hinge will still fail.

How much does it cost to replace an inner CV joint at a service station for an Almera Classic?

The cost of work depends on the region and level of the service station:

• 🔧 Replacing one CV joint: 2,500–4,000 rub.
• 🔧 Replacing the boot: 1,000–1,500 rub.
• 🔧 Replacing the gearbox oil seal (if required): 1,500–2,000 rub.

In total with spare parts (original) it will be 7,000–10,000 rub. for one side.