Operation Nissan Almera The G15 generation in our road conditions requires regular attention to the braking system. The rear brakes on this model feature a disc mechanism with an integrated electronic parking brake, making servicing much more difficult than conventional drum systems. Ignoring pad wear can lead to critical brake caliper damage and costly repairs.
Replacement procedure rear pads has its own unique features that must be taken into account when servicing yourself. The main difficulty lies in correctly retracting the caliper piston, since its rotation when pressed is mandatory for models with an electric handbrake. Errors at this stage can result in failure of the electronic brake control module.
In this article we will analyze in detail all stages of work, from preparing tools to the final check of the system. We will pay special attention to technical nuances specific to Almera G15, so that you can perform the replacement safely and efficiently, preserving the life of your car components.
Diagnostics of wear and selection of suitable consumables
Before proceeding with disassembly, you need to make sure that replacement is necessary. On Nissan Almera wear of the rear pads is often not accompanied by a characteristic squeak, since wear sensors are not installed on all trim levels or have a specific design. Visual inspection through the holes in the caliper disc allows you to assess the thickness of the friction lining. If it is less than 2 mm, replacement is required.
Choosing the right spare parts is the key to effective braking and the absence of extraneous noise. Original Nissan usually marked with part numbers of the 31060 series, but there are many high-quality analogues. It is important to pay attention not only to the brand, but also to the presence of the necessary springs, brackets and clips in the kit, since old fasteners are often deformed when removed.
- 🔍 Original: Nissan 31060-1KC0A - guarantee of perfect fit, but high price.
- 💰 High-quality analogues: Textar, TRW, Brembo - optimal price-quality ratio.
- ⚠️ Budget options: Sangsin, Frontier — acceptable for a quiet ride, but can be noisy.
When purchasing a kit, make sure that the box contains lubricant for the guides and contact surfaces. Lack of high-quality lubrication often leads to caliper jamming and uneven wear of new linings. If the kit does not include lubricant, you need to purchase a specialized compound, for example, Permatex Ultra Disc or an analogue based on ceramic components.
⚠️ Caution: Never use graphite or lithium grease on caliper pistons and guides. These materials cannot withstand high temperatures and can cause the rubber seals to swell, causing the wheel to seize.
Necessary tools and workplace preparation
To carry out the work, you will need a standard set of automotive tools, but with a few specific additions. The key point is to have a jack, a stand under the body and a set of heads. Be sure to have a wheel wrench ready, as you will have to unscrew the wheel bolts under load or force. Do not neglect the use of stands, since working under the vehicle without secure fixation is strictly prohibited.
The most important tool in this process is a special wrench or adapter for retracting the caliper piston. Unlike the front calipers, the rear piston is Almera G15 has a thread and must be screwed in when compressed. An ordinary clamp or vice will not work here and may damage the mechanism. It is best to use a universal caliper pistons retraction kit.
- 🛠️ Head set:
17,14,12mm for caliper and guides. - 🔌 Special key: hexagon 5 mm or an adapter for electric support (if you disconnect the battery).
- 💧 Liquid: WD-40 or an analogue for treating rusty joints.
Also prepare a rag and a wire brush. Before installing new pads, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the seats from dirt, rust and old grease. This will ensure free movement of the bracket and prevent vibrations during braking. Use a wire brush to clean the areas where the pads rest.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting work, make sure that the car is on a level surface and securely secured with the hand brake (if it is working) and wheel chocks.
- DOT 4
- DOT 5.1
- Nissan special fluid
- I don't know
Step-by-step instructions for dismantling and installation
Begin the process by safely lifting the vehicle and removing the wheel. Loosen the mounting bolts before the machine is fully raised. After removing the wheel, carefully inspect the caliper and disc for obvious damage, brake fluid leaks, or excessive disc wear. If the disc has deep grooves or runout, it may need to be sharpened or replaced.
The next step is removing the caliper guides. Typically these are two bolts at the back of the caliper that secure the caliper to the steering knuckle. Unscrew them with the key to 14 or 17 mm, depending on the year of manufacture. Remove the caliper bracket and carefully hang it on a wire to the suspension spring so as not to damage the brake hose. Now you can take out the old pads and check the condition of the guide boots.
☑️ Preparing to replace pads
The most crucial moment is preparing the piston for installing new pads. The piston must be completely recessed into the caliper body. To do this, use a special tool, rotating it clockwise. If you do not use a diagnostic scanner to retract the piston into service mode, mechanical screwing is the only safe way. Make sure that the piston is level and without distortion.
What to do if the piston does not screw in?
If the piston cannot be screwed in, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. If the reservoir is overfilled, fluid will not be able to return to the system, creating pressure that prevents retraction. Drain some liquid before starting work.
Install new pads on the caliper, having previously lubricated the metal parts in contact with the caliper with a special high-temperature lubricant. Do not apply lubricant to the friction lining itself! Reinstall the bracket, tighten the guides to the recommended torque (usually approx. 25-30 Nm). Don't forget to install new metal stop plates if they were included.
Specifics of working with an electronic parking brake
On Nissan Almera G15 The rear brake mechanism is electronically controlled. If you simply unscrew the bolts and try to compress the piston without relieving the tension on the electric motor, this will damage the mechanism. There are two main ways to work correctly: using a diagnostic scanner or manually turning off the power followed by mechanical rotation.
When using a scanner, you must connect the device to the diagnostic connector, go to the brake system menu and select the “Service Mode” or “Brake Pad Reset” function. The electric motor will automatically move the piston to its extreme position, allowing you to easily install new pads. After completing the work, the procedure must be repeated to return the piston to its working position.
- 🔧 Scanner: Launch, Autel, Consult-III - the most reliable and safe method.
- 🔑 Manual method: Disconnect the battery, unscrew the motor, screw in the piston manually.
- ⚡ Warning: Never compress the piston without turning off the electronics or in maintenance mode.
If you don't have access to a professional scanner, you can use the manual shutdown method. Disconnect the connector on the rear caliper that powers the handbrake motor. After this, you can safely screw in the piston using a special wrench. However, remember that after installing the new pads, you will have to manually push the piston back in order to activate the handbrake, otherwise it will not work.
| Parameter | Meaning | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Brake disc diameter | 280 mm | Standard on most G15 trims |
| Guide tightening torque | 25-30 Nm | Use a torque wrench |
| Wheel tightening torque | 100-110 Nm | Cross-shaped tightening pattern |
| Brake fluid type | DOT 4 | Change every 2 years |
| New pad thickness | 12-14 mm | Including metal base |
Before starting work, open the brake fluid reservoir cap to prevent fluid from overflowing when pressing the pistons.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
One of the most common mistakes is not cleaning the caliper guides. Dirt and rust cause the caliper to not move freely and the brake pads to wear unevenly. As a result, one side of the lining wears off faster than the other, which causes the brake pedal to pound and make strange noises. Always use a wire brush and brake cleaner before reassembly.
Another common mistake is incorrect installation of new pads without replacing the metal stops (brackets). These elements become deformed over time due to thermal expansion and lose their properties. Installing new pads on old brackets often causes the pads to start to wobble, making a ringing sound when moving and rubbing. Replacing the metal brackets is mandatory every time the pads are replaced to ensure correct caliper geometry.
It is also worth paying attention to the condition of the guide boots. If the rubber is torn, moisture and dirt get inside, which quickly disables the mechanism. If cracks or ruptures of the anthers are detected, the guides must be replaced. Don't try to simply lubricate them and leave them as they are, as this will only delay the problem.
⚠️ Attention: If after replacing the pads you feel that the brake pedal has become soft or sinks, air may have entered the system. In this case, it is necessary to bleed the brake system.
The quality of the assembly and the use of new consumables (staples, lubricant, boots) are more important than the brand of the pads themselves.
Final check and break-in of brakes
After completing the installation of all components, it is necessary to conduct a visual inspection. Make sure all bolts are tight, connectors are connected tightly, and no tools are left inside the mechanisms. Install the wheel and tighten the mounting bolts. Lower the car to the ground and only then tighten the wheel bolts to the required torque.
Before driving, be sure to check the operation of the brakes in place. Press the brake pedal several times until it becomes firm. This is necessary so that the caliper pistons press against the new pads, since after replacement they have a larger gap. If the pedal remains soft, check the system for air.
The first 200-300 kilometers after replacement should be followed by a running-in regime. Avoid sudden and emergency braking by allowing the new linings and discs to get used to each other. Aggressive driving in the first hours can lead to overheating and uneven deposition of friction mixture material on the disc, which will cause vibrations in the future.
Why do new pads squeak?
New pads may squeak during the first few hundred kilometers due to grinding in. If the squeak does not disappear after 300 km, it is possible that a low-quality part was installed or the installation technology was violated (for example, the guides were not lubricated).
Why do you need to disconnect the battery when replacing rear pads?
Disabling the battery is necessary to de-energize the handbrake electric motors. If you apply power to the motor when the piston is in its extreme position or when trying to compress it, the mechanism may burn out or fail. This is especially true when using the mechanical method of retracting the piston without a scanner.
Is it possible to replace only one pad?
No, under no circumstances. Brake pads are always replaced in pairs on one axle (both rear wheels). Replacing only one pad will lead to uneven braking, the car skidding during emergency braking and rapid wear of the disc on one side.
How do you know when it’s time to change the brake disc and pads?
The brake disc must be replaced if its thickness is less than the permissible minimum (usually indicated on the disc itself, for Almera G15 this is about 20-21 mm) if there are deep grooves, cracks or strong beating. If the disc is worn out, installing new pads will not give the desired braking effect.
What should I do if the brake pedal is not firm after replacement?
This is a sign of air in the system. It is necessary to bleed the brake system. If the pedal still remains soft, check the integrity of the brake hoses and the absence of fluid leaks. The master cylinder may need to be replaced.