Nissan Almera Classic (also known as B10 or N16 in some markets) is a reliable car, but even it has its weaknesses. One of them is **outer CV joints** (constant velocity joints), which wear out due to aggressive driving, bad roads or simple aging. If you hear a characteristic crunch when turning the steering wheel, do not attribute it to “car features”: ignoring the problem will lead to costly repairs to the drive or gearbox.

In this article we will analyze signs of outer CV joint failure on Almera Classic, we’ll tell you how to check it without a lift, what spare parts to choose (original vs analogues), and give step-by-step replacement instructions with nuances for the right and left hinges. You will also learn why even a new CV joint can quickly fail and how to avoid it.

Signs of a faulty outer CV joint on a Nissan Almera Classic

The outer CV joint (more often called a “grenade”) is responsible for transmitting torque to the wheels when cornering. Its wear is more noticeable than that of the inner joint, and the symptoms cannot be ignored. Here are the key signs:

  • 🔊 Crunch when turning - the most obvious signal. The sound intensifies when the steering wheel is turned sharply (for example, in a parking lot) and may disappear in a straight line. On Almera Classic crunching is often heard from the side right CV joint due to greater load when turning left.
  • 🚗 Vibration on the steering wheel when accelerating or driving at low speeds (20–40 km/h). Vibration may be transmitted to the gas pedal.
  • 🔧 Backlash in the drive — if you rock the wheel in a vertical plane (holding the top and bottom), you feel a gap. On Almera Classic this is especially noticeable when the silent blocks of the levers are worn out.
  • 💨 Boot rupture — if there are cracks or traces of lubricant on it, the CV joint is already running “dry” and its resource has been exhausted.

⚠️ Attention: The crunching noise may disappear after the car warms up, but this does not mean that the problem has disappeared. The heated lubricant temporarily reduces friction, but parts wear continues. If the sound only appears when right turns - faulty left CV joint (and vice versa), since the load is shifted to the opposite side.

On Nissan Almera Classic with a mileage of more than 150,000 km, the crunching of the CV joint is often confused with wear wheel bearing. To distinguish them, note:

  • 🔄 The CV joint only crunches when turning (silence on the line).
  • 🔄 The bearing is constantly noisy, and the hum intensifies with increasing speed.

How to check the outer CV joint on an Almera Classic without a lift

You can carry out diagnostics yourself without removing the wheel. You will need a jack, jack stands, and a pry bar (or crowbar). Follow the algorithm:

  1. Raise the car on the side of the suspected CV joint, secure with stops and remove the wheel.
  2. Check the boot - if it is torn or covered with a layer of dried grease, the CV joint is already damaged.
  3. Rock the drive:
    • Grab the drive shaft 近 from the box side with your hand.
    • Try shaking it up and down and left and right. Play of more than 1–2 mm is a sign of wear.
  4. Check for crunch:
    • Engage first gear and drive off slowly, turning the steering wheel to the side.
    • If a crunching sound is heard left turn - the problem is right CV joint, and vice versa.

🔧 Useful lifehack: To accurately localize sound, take Mechanic's phonendoscope (or even medical) and press it against the boot while rotating the wheel. The crunch will be heard clearly.

📊 How often do you check the condition of the CV joints on your car?
  • Once every 10,000 km
  • Only when the crunch appears
  • Never checked
  • On your own once a year

Which CV joints are suitable for Nissan Almera Classic: original vs analogues

On Almera Classic (body B10, 2006–2012) two types of CV joints were installed depending on the year of manufacture and configuration:

  • 🔧 Until 2008 - outer CV joint with 24 splines on the shaft (original article number: 39300-4M000).
  • 🔧 After 2008 — CV joint with 26 splines (item: 39300-4M010).

⚠️ Attention: By installing a CV joint with the wrong number of splines, you risk damaging the splined part of the drive shaft or transmission. Before purchasing be sure to check the markings on the old CV joint or measure the number of splines.

Let's compare original spare parts and popular analogues:

Manufacturer Article Price (RUB) Features Recommendation
Nissan (original) 39300-4M000 / 39300-4M010 5 500–7 000 Guaranteed quality, full compatibility ⭐ Best choice for durability
GKN (Lobro) 501047 / 501048 3 200–4 500 Quality close to the original, often installed on the conveyor ⭐ Optimal price/quality ratio
SKF VKJA 6636 2 800–3 800 Good corrosion protection, but shorter service life of anthers ⚠️ Requires checking the anthers after installation
Febi 22300 2 500–3 200 Budget option, but cases of premature wear are common 🚫 For temporary replacement only

💡 Advice: When purchasing an analogue, pay attention to complete set. Cheap kits often come without lubricant and retaining rings, which will have to be purchased separately. In the original kit Nissan there is always:

  • 🔧 CV joint assembled with boot.
  • 🧴 A bag of special lubricant (NLGI 2).
  • 🔒 Retaining ring and clamps.
How to distinguish a fake CV joint from the original?

Counterfeits often reveal themselves based on the following characteristics:

1. **Packaging** - original parts Nissan Packed in thick cardboard with a hologram and an article number stamped on the box. Counterfeits are usually in plastic bags.

2. **Marking** — the logo is stamped on the original CV joint Nissan and article number. Analogues may only have a sticker.

3. **Metal quality** - fake CV joints are often lighter in weight and have a rough spline surface.

4. **Boot** - on the original it is thicker and has the manufacturer’s markings (for example, NOK).

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the outer CV joint on an Almera Classic

Replacing the CV joint with Nissan Almera Classic does not require special tools, but will require care. Working time: 1.5–2 hours per side. You will need:

  • 🔧 Jack and stops.
  • 🔧 Set of sockets and keys (for 17, 19, 30).
  • 🔧 Retaining ring remover and hammer.
  • 🔧 Mount and WD-40.
  • 🔧 New lubricant for CV joint (NLGI 2).

📌 Important: Before starting work disconnect the negative terminal of the battery - this will prevent accidental activation of the starter when manipulating the drive.

Loosen the hub nut (30) with the car stationary|Raise the car and remove the wheel|Clean the drive and CV joint from dirt with WD-40|Prepare new grease and clamps|Check that the circlip is included-->

Step 1: Removing the old CV joint

1. Loosen (but don't remove!) hub nut key to 30 while the car is on wheels.

2. Raise the car, remove the wheel and unscrew the hub nut completely.

3. Unscrew two ball joint bolts to the steering knuckle (key 17).

4. Gently press with a pry bar steering knuckle from the ball joint to release the CV joint from the hub.

5. Use a puller or pry bar to knock down internal CV joint from the gearbox shaft (after draining the oil, if required).

Step 2: Installing a new CV joint

1. Remove the old clamps from the boot and cut it if it is damaged.

2. Use a puller to remove retaining ring from the old CV joint and transfer it to the new one (if it was not included in the kit).

3. Place the new boot on the shaft, but do not secure it with clamps yet.

4. Install the new CV joint on the shaft, making sure that it is seated all the way (you should hear a snap ring click).

5. Fill the CV joint with grease (about 80–100 grams) and secure the boot with clamps.

Step 3: Assembly and Testing

1. Install the drive back into the transmission and secure the inner CV joint.

2. Insert the outer CV joint into the hub and tighten the nut (tightening torque - 200–220 Nm).

3. Screw on the ball joint and install the wheel.

4. Lower the car and check on the go — There should be no crunching or vibration when turning.

⚠️ Attention: After replacing the CV joint be sure to check the oil level in the gearbox. When removing the drive, some of the oil could leak out through the breather.

💡

If, when installing a new CV joint, it does not seat all the way, do not hit it with a hammer! Use copper or aluminum spacerto avoid damaging the splines.

Common mistakes when replacing CV joints and how to avoid them

Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes that shorten the service life of a new CV joint. Here are the most common:

  • 🔧 Not enough lubrication - if the CV joint is less than 50% filled with lubricant, it will quickly overheat and fail. Norm: The boot should be 2/3 full.
  • 🔧 Boot damage during installation, even a small crack will lead to dirt getting in. Before fixing with clamps check the boot for leaks (can be inflated with air).
  • 🔧 Incorrect hub nut tightening torque - if you overtighten, the hub bearing will fail; if you don't tighten it enough, the CV joint will play. Use torque wrench!
  • 🔧 Ignoring the inner CV joint — if the outer CV joint is worn out, the inner one should also be checked. On Almera Classic they often fail almost simultaneously.

🔹 Case from practice: Brought to service Almera Classic 2009 complaining of a crunching sound when turning. The owner already replaced the outer CV joint a year ago, but the problem returned. During diagnostics it turned out that the installation wizard did not replace the retaining ring, and the CV joint slowly slipped off the shaft, damaging the splines. It was necessary to change not only the CV joint, but also the drive shaft.

💡

Always check that the new CV joint is complete before installation. The absence of a retaining ring or clamps is a reason to return the part to the seller.

How to extend the life of the CV joint on a Nissan Almera Classic

CV joint resource for Almera Classic depends not only on the quality of the part, but also on driving style and care. Here's what will help avoid early wear:

  • 🚗 Avoid abrupt starts with the wheels turned out (for example, when leaving a parking lot). This creates maximum load on the CV joint.
  • 🛣️ Avoid potholes — shocks to the suspension are transmitted to the drive, accelerating wear.
  • 🔧 Check the anthers every 10,000 km. Even a small crack is a reason for replacement.
  • 🧴 Use the right lubricant - only NLGI 2 (For example, Molykote BR2 Plus). Litol and other universal lubricants are not suitable!
  • 🔄 Change CV joints in pairs - if one fails, the second will soon follow.

📊 Statistics: With careful operation and regular checking of the boots, the outer CV joints are Almera Classic serve 150,000–200,000 km. In the conditions of Russian roads, this period is reduced to 100,000–120,000 km.

⚠️ Attention: If you often drive off-road or in deep snow, install boot protection (for example, from plastic bottles or special cases). This will prevent sand and salt from entering, which will destroy the rubber.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about CV joints on Nissan Almera Classic

Is it possible to drive with a crisp CV joint?

Short term (1-2 weeks) - yes, but this will lead to accelerated wear and possible destruction of the CV joint in motion. In the worst case, debris can block the drive and the wheel stops turning. We recommend replacing the CV joint at the first sign of a squealing noise.

How much does it cost to replace a CV joint on an Almera Classic?

Cost of work in the service:

  • 🔧 Replacing one CV joint - 1,500–2,500 rub.
  • 🔧 Replacement of the drive assembly (inner + outer CV joint) — 3,000–4,500 rub.

Taking into account spare parts, the total price will be 5,000–10,000 rub. per side.

What is the difference between the left and right CV joints on the Almera Classic?

On Almera Classic left and right outer CV joints interchangeable (symmetrical), but the inner CV joints (from the box side) may differ in shaft length. When purchasing, check the side with the seller or take drive assembly.

Is it possible to restore the CV joint instead of replacing it?

Theoretically yes - some workshops offer CV joint bulkhead with replacement of balls and separator. However, in practice it is:

  • 🔧 Expensive — the cost of restoration is comparable to the cost of a new CV joint.
  • 🔧 Unreliable — the service life of a repaired CV joint rarely exceeds 30,000 km.
  • 🔧 Unsafe — risk of CV joint collapse while moving.

Conclusion: CV joint repair is impractical - It’s cheaper and more reliable to install a new one.

What lubricant should I use for the CV joint on the Almera Classic?

Suitable for outer CV joint only special molybdenum-based lubricant with class NLGI 2. Recommended brands:

  • 🧴 Molykote BR2 Plus (original for Nissan).
  • 🧴 LIQUI MOLY LM47 (universal for CV joints).
  • 🧴 Castrol Optimol Longtime 2.

❌ Don't use: Litol-24, solid oil, graphite lubricant - they cannot withstand high loads and temperatures.