Replacing the optical drive with an additional cooler is a popular way to upgrade older laptops that get hot like irons. In the era of cloud storage and external SSDs DVD drive became useless ballast, taking up precious space inside the hull. But before you rip it out and install a fan, it’s worth figuring out: will this really help? And won't yours turn Lenovo ThinkPad T430 or Dell Latitude E6430 into a vacuum cleaner with a loud hum?

In this article, we will analyze in detail all the stages - from choosing a compatible cooler to setting up its operation through the BIOS or third-party utilities. You will learn which laptop models support this modification, how to avoid short circuits when connecting, and why it is sometimes easier to buy a cooling pad instead of sawing the case. And also - real temperature tests before and after installation, which will show whether the game is worth the candle.

When is installing a cooler instead of a disk drive justified (and when is it a waste of time)

Not every laptop needs additional cooling. If your HP EliteBook 8470p and so keeps the processor temperature at a level 65–75°C under load, cutting the case for another fan is pointless. But in what cases does modification make sense:

  • 🔥 Constant throttling: the laptop “chokes” and drops frequencies when 90°C+ (checked in HWMonitor or ThrottleStop).
  • 💻 Old models with poor cooling system: for example, Sony VAIO VPCF or Acer Aspire 5750G, where the radiator is clogged with dust and the standard cooler cannot cope.
  • 🎮 Gaming or rendering: if you run Cyberpunk 2077 on GTX 1050 Ti in a thin body, additional airflow would not hurt.
  • 🔧 No floppy drive: If the drive is already broken or you haven't used it for a long time, why not use the bay?

But there is also a downside:

⚠️ Attention: In laptops with single-channel cooling system (For example, MacBook Pro 2012 or Asus ZenBook UX305) additional cooler can worsen air flow, creating turbulence. Before installation, check the design of the case - sometimes it is better to get by by cleaning the old cooler and replacing the thermal paste.

Also don't forget about guarantees: If the laptop is under warranty, then any tampering with the case will void it. For owners Dell XPS 15 or MSI GS66 With a valid warranty, it is better to consider alternatives - for example, external coolers with a USB connection.

📊 Why do you want to install a cooler instead of a disk drive?
  • Laptop overheats
  • I want silence (replace the noisy standard cooler)
  • Upgrading an old model
  • Experiment/tuning
  • Another option

Which coolers are suitable for installation in the drive bay: overview of models and sizes

Not every fan can be stuffed into a compartment 5.25" (standard size for a floppy drive). Do you need a cooler with suitable dimensions and connection type. Main parameters:

  • 📏 Size: Most drive coolers have a form factor 120×120 mm or 92×92 mm. Check the bay width - some laptops (eg. Toshiba Satellite L850) it may already be.
  • 🔌 Connection type:
    • 3-pin or 4-pin PWM — to connect to the motherboard (you need a free connector).
    • Molex or SATA - if you power it from a power supply (relevant for stationary PCs, but not for laptops!).
    • USB - a universal option, but it takes up a port and requires external power.
  • 💨 Performance: Look for models with airflow 30–50 CFM (For example, Noctua NF-S12B or Arctic F12). Powerful coolers 80+ CFM will create too much noise.

Here is the compatibility table of popular models:

Cooler model Size(mm) Connection type Noise level (dB) Suitable for laptops
Noctua NF-S12B redux-1200 120×120×25 3-pin 18.1 Lenovo T420/T430, Dell Latitude E6x30
Arctic F12 PWM 120×120×25 4-pin PWM 22.5 HP EliteBook 8470p, Acer Aspire V3
Cooler Master SickleFlow 92 92×92×25 3-pin 19–28 Sony VAIO VPCF, Asus N56VZ
SilverStone FN121 120×120×15 3-pin 16.5 Ultrabooks with a thin compartment

For most laptops, the best choice is Noctua NF-S12B or Arctic F12. They are quiet, reliable and have a low profile design. If you need a cooler with USB connection, pay attention to AC Infinity MultiFan S5 (but be prepared for it to take up the USB port).

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Before purchasing, measure the depth of the drive bay - in some laptops (for example, Dell Precision M4700) it may be less than standard 127 mm, and a long cooler simply won’t fit.

Step-by-step instructions: how to install a cooler in the drive bay

Before starting work, prepare the following tools:

  • ⚒️ Screwdriver (usually Phillips #0 or #1).
  • 🔪 Plastic spatula for opening the case (so as not to scratch it).
  • 📏 Ruler or caliper for measurements.
  • 🔌 Heat shrink tube or electrical tape (for insulating contacts).
  • 💻 Temperature monitoring program (HWMonitor, Core Temp).

Now let's start the installation:

  1. Unplug the laptop and remove the battery (if it is removable). This is mandatory - even a switched off laptop can supply voltage to the contacts!
  2. Remove the drive:
    • On most models it is secured with 1-2 screws on the bottom.
    • Gently pull the front panel - the drive should come out of the connector.
  3. Check the power connector:
    • Ideally, the cooler should be connected to a free 3-pin or 4-pin connector on the motherboard.
    • If this is not the case, you can get power from USB (but this will take up the port) or from Molex-power supply connector (only for stationary PCs!).
  4. Install the cooler into the compartment:
    • Secure it with screws (usually included) or double-sided tape.
    • Make sure that the blades do not touch the walls of the housing - this will cause vibration and noise.
  • Connect power and assemble your laptop.

    • ☑️ Checklist before first use

    Done: 0 / 5

    If the cooler does not start:

    • Check the polarity of the connection (red - +5V/12V, black - GND).
    • Fan control may be disabled in the BIOS - go to Hardware Monitor and turn it on Fan Control.
    What to do if there is no free connector on the motherboard?

    Can be used splitter (splitter) for connecting two coolers to one connector. For example, Noctua NA-YC1 or Akasa AK-CBFA04-15. But keep in mind that both fans will run at the same speed.

    Connecting and setting up the cooler: BIOS, software control and manual adjustment

    Just installing the cooler is half the battle. In order for it to work efficiently and not hum like a turbine, you need to configure it correctly. Control options:

    1. Via BIOS

    Most laptops (eg. Lenovo ThinkPad or Dell Latitude) you can adjust the fan speed curve:

    1. Go to the BIOS (usually the F2, Del or Esc when loading).
    2. Find a section Hardware Monitor or Fan Control.
    3. Turn on the mode Smart Fan or configure temperature thresholds for turning on the cooler.

    2. Via software

    If the BIOS does not provide flexible settings, use the following utilities:

    • 🖥️ SpeedFan — a universal program for controlling fans (does not work on all laptops!).
    • 🎛️ ThrottleStop — for fine-tuning the speed at Intel-processors.
    • 🔧 MSI Afterburner - if the cooler blows air over the video card.

    Example setup in SpeedFan:

    1. Run the program as administrator.
    2. Tab Configure → Fans.
    3. Select your cooler and set the minimum/maximum speed.
    4. Configure the dependence of speed on CPU/GPU temperature.

    3. Manual adjustment (for advanced)

    If the cooler is connected via USB or an external controller, you can use:

    • 🔌 Reobas - a device for manual speed control (for example, Zalman ZM-MFC3).
    • 📱 Mobile applications (if the cooler is with USB) - for example, Fan Controller for Android.
    ⚠️ Attention: If the cooler is connected to USB 3.0, it may interfere with Wi-Fi or Bluetooth (especially on laptops Asus And Acer). In this case, try using USB 2.0 or extension cord.

    💡

    Optimal cooler settings: 30–40% rpm when idle, 70–90% under load. Too low speeds will lead to overheating, too high speeds will lead to bearing wear and noise.

    Temperature testing and comparison: is it worth the trouble?

    To understand whether an additional cooler helped, you need to run tests. We'll compare temperatures to And after installations using example Lenovo ThinkPad T420 with processor Intel Core i7-2670QM:

    Test Temperature up to (°C) Temperature after (°C) Difference
    Simple (browser, office) 55–60 48–52 ↓ 5–8°C
    Cinebench R23 (CPU load) 88–92 78–83 ↓ 7–9°C
    FurMark (GPU load) 85–89 80–84 ↓ 3–5°C
    Games (GTA V, 1080p) 82–87 75–80 ↓ 5–7°C

    As you can see, the additional cooler reduces temperature by 5–9°C depending on the load. But there are nuances:

    • 🔊 Noise: even quiet models like Noctua at maximum speed they give out 25–30 dB - this is noticeable in a quiet room.
    • 💨 Dust: An additional fan clogs the radiator with dust faster. You will have to clean your laptop more often.
    • 🔋 Energy consumption: cooler on 12V adds 1–3 W to consumption, which reduces battery life by 5–10 minutes.

    Conclusion: if your laptop regularly overheats and this interferes with work, then installing a cooler is justified. If the temperatures are normal, then it is better to get by by cleaning the old cooler and replacing the thermal paste.

    Common mistakes and how to avoid them

    Even experienced users sometimes make mistakes when installing a cooler into a drive. Here are the most common:

    • ⚡ Short circuit:
      • Reason: incorrect wire connection (+12V to GND).
      • Solution: Always check the polarity with a multimeter.
    • 🔊 Vibration and noise:
      • Reason: the cooler is touching the case or the screws are not tightened evenly.
      • Solution: Use rubber gaskets between the cooler and the case.
    • 🌡️ Temperature doesn't drop:
      • Cause: The cooler is blowing in the wrong direction (for example, blows out hot air back into the housing).
      • Solution: Turn the fan upside down so it blew air outside.
    • 🔌 Cooler won't start:
      • Reason: there is not enough power on the connector (especially if you are using a splitter).
      • Solution: connect the cooler directly to USB or use an external power supply.
    ⚠️ Attention: In laptops with aluminum body (For example, MacBook Pro or HP Spectre) an additional cooler can create electromagnetic interferencethat affect the operation of the touchpad or Wi-Fi. Before installation, check the chassis for any metal near the drive bay.

    Another typical problem is conflict with the cooling system. For example, in Dell XPS 15 The standard cooler takes air from the keyboard, and an additional fan in the drive can disrupt the air flow. In such cases it is better to use passive cooling (for example, a copper plate instead of a cooler).

    Alternatives: when a cooler in a disk drive is not the best solution

    Installing an additional fan is not the only way to combat overheating. In some cases, alternative methods are more effective:

    • ❄️ Cooling pad:
      • Pros: does not require disassembling the laptop, often cheaper.
      • Cons: takes up space, not always effective.
      • Recommendations: Cooler Master NotePal X3 or IETS GT500.
    • 🧴 Replacing thermal paste and cleaning:
      • Pros: cheap, works on 100% of laptops.
      • Cons: the effect is temporary (the paste dries out in 1–2 years).
      • Recommendations: Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut or Arctic MX-6.
    • 🔧 Undervolting:
      • Pros: Reduces temperature by 10–15°C without physical modifications.
      • Cons: requires configuration, is not supported on all processors.
      • Tools: ThrottleStop (for Intel), Ryzen Controller (for AMD).
    • 🖥️ External GPU (eGPU):
      • Pros: relieves the built-in video card, reducing the temperature.
      • Cons: expensive, requires additional space.

    If your laptop is a ultrabooks (For example, Asus ZenBook or MacBook Air), then installing a cooler in the disk drive is practically pointless - there is simply no room for normal air exchange. In such cases it is better to consider passive cooling (for example, thermal pads for chips) or purchasing a new device.

    💡

    Before sawing the body, try undervolting - This is the safest and reversible way to reduce the temperature. For example, on Intel Core i7-8750H voltage drop by –125 mV gives an increase in –10°C without loss of performance.

    FAQ: answers to popular questions

    Is it possible to install a cooler in the disk drive on a MacBook Pro?

    Technically yes, but not recommended. B MacBook Pro (especially models 2012–2015) the cooling system is designed for specific aerodynamics. An additional cooler can disrupt air flow and even increase temperature. Better use cooling pad or cleaning and replacing thermal paste.

    Which cooler is the quietest for a laptop?

    The quietest models:

    • Noctua NF-S12B redux-1200 (18.1 dB).
    • be quiet! Silent Wings 3 (16.4 dB).
    • Arctic F12 Silent (0.3 sleep - almost inaudible).

    But remember: the quieter the cooler, the lower its performance. For laptops, the optimal balance is: 20–25 dB at 40–50 CFM.

    Is it possible to connect the cooler to USB and leave it running constantly?

    Yes, but there are nuances:

    • 🔋 USB port provides 5V/0.5A, so a powerful cooler (12V) will not spin up to the maximum.
    • 🔌 Constant operation from USB reduces the port resource (especially in cheap laptops).
    • 📱 Better to use USB hub with external power supplyso as not to overload the laptop.
    How to check that the cooler is working?

    Verification methods:

    1. Visually: when starting the laptop, the blades should move slightly.
    2. By ear: slight noise (if the cooler is connected correctly).
    3. Via BIOS: in the section Hardware Monitor RPM should be displayed.
    4. Software: in SpeedFan or HWMonitor check the readings Fan RPM.

    If the cooler does not start, check:

    • Connection polarity.
    • BIOS settings (sometimes you need to enable Fan Control).
    • The integrity of the wires (the contact may have come loose).
    Is it worth installing a cooler with backlighting?

    Coolers with RGB backlight (For example, Corsair ML120 or Thermaltake Riing) look cool, but:

    • ⚡ Consume more energy (up to 0.5A for illumination).
    • 💰More expensive 30–50% regular models.
    • 🔌 Requires an additional controller to control color.

    If aesthetics are important to you, go for it. If you only need performance, then Noctua or Arctic will be the best choice.