Nissan Almera Classic - one of the most popular sedans in Russia, known for its reliability and unpretentiousness. However, even such a time-tested car has consumable items that require regular attention. Brake pads - a critical detail, the condition of which determines your safety on the road. In this article we will look at how to choose the right pads for Almera Classicwhen to change them, which brands are trustworthy, and how to replace them yourself without mistakes.

Many owners are faced with a dilemma: buy original spare parts or analogues from third-party manufacturers? We analyzed the market, studied reviews from car owners and experts to give you clear recommendations. You will also learn about hidden signs of pad wear, which are often ignored even by experienced drivers, and how to avoid common mistakes when replacing.

Signs of brake pad wear on a Nissan Almera Classic

The first signal that the pads require replacement is creaking or whistling when braking. However, this is far from the only sign. On Almera Classic (especially with mileage over 100 thousand km) wear can manifest itself in different ways:

  • 🔊 Extraneous sounds: the grinding sound of metal on metal indicates complete wear of the friction layer - driving with such a defect is extremely dangerous!
  • 🚗 Increased braking distance: If the car brakes worse than usual, even with dry pads, this is a reason to check.
  • 💨 Vibration or beat on the steering wheel when braking - deformation of the brake disc is possible due to uneven wear of the pads.
  • 🔴 Dashboard indicator: on some versions Almera Classic the light comes on BRAKE (if pads with wear sensors are installed).

A less obvious, but no less important sign is dust on rims. If previously, after a trip, a gray coating remained on the discs, but now it is almost gone (or, conversely, a black coating has appeared), this may indicate wear on the pads or the use of low-quality materials. Also note friction layer thickness: if it is less than 2–3 mm, the pads must be replaced.

⚠️ Attention! If, after replacing the pads, the brake pedal becomes “soft” or falls out, immediately check the brake fluid level and the tightness of the system. This could be a sign air leak or leaks.
📊 How often do you check the brake pads on your car?
  • Every 10 thousand km
  • Once a year
  • Only when problems arise
  • Never checked
  • Other

Which brake pads are suitable for Nissan Almera Classic

On Nissan Almera Classic (in the back N16, produced from 2006 to 2018) the following pad sizes are installed:

  • 📏 Front: length ~130 mm, width ~55 mm, thickness of the new set ~17 mm.
  • 📏 Rear (drum on basic versions / disc on trims with ABS): for disc - similar to the front, for drum - diameter ~ 200 mm.

Original pads from Nissan have articles:

Pad type Article Note
Front (disc) 40520-9M000 or 40520-9M00A For models 2006–2012
Front (disc) 40520-9M010 For 2013–2018 models.
Rear (disc, with ABS) 40530-9M000 Only for versions with rear disc brakes
Rear (drum) 40540-9M000 For basic configurations

However, original spare parts are not always available or affordable. There are worthy analogues on the market from trusted brands:

  • 🔧 ATE (13.0460-2834.2 for the front) - German quality, minimal dust level.
  • 🔧 Brembo (P 24 038) - optimal price/quality ratio, suitable for an aggressive driving style.
  • 🔧 Ferodo (FDB1435) - soft pads with low noise levels, ideal for the city.
  • 🔧 TRW (GDB1435) - long service life, but the first 200–300 km may creak.
  • 🔧 Bosch (0 986 494 219) - a universal option, suitable for most operating conditions.

When choosing, pay attention to friction material composition:

  • 🟢 Semi-metallic - durable, but noisy and dusty.
  • 🟡 Ceramic — quiet and generate little dust, but more expensive and less effective at low temperatures.
  • 🔴 Organic - soft and silent, but wear out quickly.
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If you often drive on mountain roads or with a trailer, choose pads with a high friction coefficient (for example, ATE Ceramic or Brembo Sport).

When to change brake pads: regulations and real experience

According to the regulations Nissan, brake pads on Almera Classic should be checked every 15,000 km, and replace when the friction layer is worn to 2–3 mm. However, the actual service life depends on many factors:

  • 🚘 Driving style: Aggressive braking reduces the life of the pads by 2–3 times.
  • 🏙️ Operating conditions: in the city (with frequent stops) the pads wear out faster than on the highway.
  • 🌡️ Climate: in regions with frequent temperature changes (for example, Siberia), the pads may “skin” and brake worse.
  • ⚙️ Brake fluid quality: Old fluid with a low boiling point accelerates wear.

Average mileage:

Pad type Minimum mileage before replacement Maximum mileage before replacement
Front (disc) 20,000 km 50,000 km
Rear (disc) 40,000 km 80,000 km
Rear (drum) 60,000 km 100,000 km

It is important to consider that front pads wear out 2-3 times faster than rear pads, since they account for up to 70% of the braking force. If you notice that the front pads are wearing unevenly (for example, the inner pads are faster than the outer ones), this may indicate jammed caliper or worn guides.

⚠️ Attention! If after replacing the pads the car pulls to the side when braking, check:
  • 🔧 Correct installation of the pads (right/left sides are not mixed up).
  • 🔧 Condition of the brake hoses (may be wedged).
  • 🔧 Tire pressure (different pressures also affect braking).
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Even if the pads look normal, they must be changed when replacing brake discs - new discs with worn pads do not rub in evenly, which leads to vibrations.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing brake pads on a Nissan Almera Classic

Replacing the front pads with Almera Classic - a task of medium complexity that can be handled independently with a minimum set of tools. You will need:

  • 🔧 Jack and stops (or lift).
  • 🔧 Keys on 12, 14, 17.
  • 🔧 Screwdriver with a flat tip.
  • 🔧 Lubricant for caliper guides (Do not use regular lithol or grease!).
  • 🔧 Brake fluid (in case of bleeding).
  • 🔧 New pads and, if necessary, brake discs.

Procedure:

  1. Preparation:
    • Place the car on a level surface, tighten the handbrake and place chocks under the rear wheels.
    • Loosen the wheel bolts (but do not remove the wheel completely!).
    • Open the hood and check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. If it is at maximum, pump it out a little with a syringe - when the caliper piston is compressed, the liquid may overflow.
  2. Removing the caliper:
    • Jack up the car and remove the wheel.
    • Unscrew the two bolts securing the caliper to the bracket (usually on 14 or 17).
    • Carefully hang the caliper on a wire or a special hook without disconnecting the brake hose!
  3. Replacing pads:
    • Remove the old pads from the bracket. If they are “stuck”, tap lightly with a hammer through the wooden spacer.
    • Clean the bracket and guides from dirt with a wire brush.
    • Install the new pads, making sure the spring retainers (if equipped) are in place.
  4. Recessing the piston:
    • Using sliding pliers or a special tool, press the caliper piston back into the cylinder. Take it slowso as not to damage the boot!
    • If the piston does not recess, check whether the brake fluid reservoir is open (a vacuum is created when the cap is closed).
  5. Assembly and testing:
    • Install the caliper in place, tighten the bolts firmly 25–30 Nm.
    • Put the wheel on, lower the car and press the brake pedal several times until the pads click into place.
    • Check the brake fluid level and add if necessary.

Check the brake fluid level|Prepare new pads and grease for the guides|Loosen the wheel bolts before jacking up|Put jack stands under the rear wheels|Clean the caliper and caliper from dirt-->

Replacement of rear pads (if disc) is done in the same way, but may be required special tool for screwing in the piston (rear calipers often use a threaded mechanism). For drum brakes, the process is more complicated - you will need to remove the drum and adjust the hand brake.

Common mistakes when replacing pads and how to avoid them

Even experienced car owners sometimes make mistakes that lead to premature pad wear or brake system malfunctions. Here are the most common of them:

  • 🔧 Ignoring caliper guides:

    If the guides are not lubricated or old grease is not removed from them, the caliper may jam, which leads to uneven wear of the pads. Use special high temperature grease (For example, Slipkote 220-R DBC or TRW PFG110).

  • 🔧 Mixing up the right and left pads:

    On some pads (for example, ATE or Brembo) there is a marking L (left) and R (right). Setting it the other way around will result in accelerated wear.

  • 🔧 Incorrect piston retraction:

    If you press the piston too hard, you can damage the boot. Also on rear calipers with a threaded mechanism, a piston is needed screw in, and not to push.

  • 🔧 Forgetting about brake discs:

    If the discs have grooves more than 1 mm deep or their thickness is less than permissible (usually 19–20 mm for Almera Classic), they also need to be replaced. New pads on worn discs will last 2 times less.

Another common problem is squeaking noise after replacing pads. The reasons may be as follows:

  • 🔊 The pads haven’t gotten used to it (usually it goes away after 200–300 km).
  • 🔊 Low quality friction material (especially for cheap analogues).
  • 🔊 No anti-squeak plates or lubricant on the back of the pads.
What should I do if the brake pedal becomes soft after replacing the pads?

If the pedal sinks or becomes “wobbly”, this is a sign of air getting into the system. It is necessary to bleed the brakes in the following order:

  1. Right rear wheel.
  2. Left rear wheel.
  3. Right front wheel.
  4. Left front wheel.

To bleed, you will need an assistant or a special tool (vacuum pump).

Cost of replacing brake pads: original vs analogues

Price for pads Nissan Almera Classic varies depending on brand, material and place of purchase. Below is a comparison table:

Brand Pad type Price per set (front/rear), rub. Notes
Nissan (original) Front disc 3 500–4 500 1 year warranty, minimum noise level.
ATE Front disc 2 800–3 500 German quality, suitable for intensive driving.
Brembo Front disc 3 000–4 000 High coefficient of friction, but may creak.
Ferodo Front disc 2 200–2 800 They are soft, wear little, but wear out faster.
TRW Rear drums 1 800–2 500 A good option for drum brakes.

Cost of replacement work in the service:

  • 🔧 Replacing front pads: 800–1,500 rub. (for aspen).
  • 🔧 Replacement of rear pads (disc): 1,000–1,800 rub.
  • 🔧 Replacement of rear pads (drum): 1,500–2,500 rub. (with handbrake adjustment).

If you decide to change the pads yourself, the total savings will be 1,500–4,000 rub. (depending on brake type). However, remember that mistakes during replacement can be more expensive - for example, damage to the caliper or brake hose will require serious repairs.

How to extend the life of brake pads

The service life of the pads is Almera Classic can be increased by 30–50% if you follow simple recommendations:

  • 🚗 Smooth braking: Avoid sudden pressure on the pedal, brake early.
  • ⚙️ Regular check: Inspect the pads every 10,000 km or before long trips.
  • 🌡️ Temperature control: after intensive braking (for example, on mountain serpentines), let the pads cool down; do not put the car on the handbrake immediately after stopping.
  • 🔧 Timely replacement of brake fluid: Old fluid boils at a lower temperature, which worsens braking and accelerates pad wear.
  • 🚿 Brake washing: in winter, regularly wash the brake mechanisms to remove salt and reagents (but not immediately after a trip - only on cold parts!).

Also note condition of brake hoses and calipers. If the caliper is stuck, the pads will constantly rub against the disc, which will lead to rapid wear and overheating. Signs of a faulty caliper:

  • 🔥 Strong heating of the wheel after a trip.
  • 💨 Uneven wear of the pads (one side wears out faster).
  • 🔊 Extraneous sounds when the wheel rotates (if the car is on a lift).

If you notice at least one of these signs, the caliper needs to be disassembled, the guides cleaned and lubricated. In advanced cases, it may be necessary to replace the piston or cuffs.

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Using high-quality brake fluid (for example, DOT 4 or DOT 5.1) increases the service life of the pads by 20–30%, as it prevents overheating and “boiling” of the brakes.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about brake pads on Nissan Almera Classic

Is it possible to install pads on only one axle (for example, only the front ones)?

No, the pads are always changed in pairs on the same axis (for example, both front or both rear). If you replace the pad on only one side, the car will pull to the side when braking and wear will be uneven. The exception is if the pad is mechanically damaged (for example, a piece of friction material has broken off), but even in this case it is better to replace both.

How long does it take to replace pads on Almera Classic?

If you have the tools and experience, replacing the front pads takes 30–60 minutes, rear disc - up to 1.5 hours. Drum brakes take longer to change (up to 2 hours), as the hand brake requires adjustment. If this is your first time, allow 2-3 hours.

Which pads are best for city driving?

Optimal for urban conditions (frequent stops, traffic jams) ceramic or organic pads (For example, Ferodo or Textar). They make less noise, generate less dust and provide comfortable braking. Semi-metallic pads (eg. ATE) are more suitable for the track or aggressive driving style.

Do I need to bleed the brakes after replacing the pads?

Bleeding the brakes is only required in two cases:

  1. If you have disconnected the brake hose from the caliper.
  2. If after replacement the brake pedal remains soft (this is a sign of air getting into the system).

In other cases, bleeding is not necessary - just press the brake pedal several times to straighten the pistons.

Is it possible to drive if the brake pads squeak?

If the squeak appeared recently and the pads are still thick (more than 5 mm), you can drive, but it’s better to check:

  • Is there a pebble or sand between the pad and the disc?
  • Are there any chips or cracks on the pads?
  • Are the caliper guides well lubricated?

If the squeak is accompanied by vibration or poor braking, the pads need to be replaced. immediately - This is a sign of critical wear.