Front brake pads for Nissan Almera Classic: selection, part numbers and do-it-yourself replacement

Brake system Nissan Almera Classic (especially in bodies B10 And N16) requires regular attention, and front pads are one of the key safety elements. Their wear directly affects the braking distance, vehicle stability during emergency braking, and even the service life of brake discs. In this article we will look at how to choose the right pads for Almera Classic, what to look for when purchasing, and how to replace it yourself - taking into account the nuances of a particular model.

Average mileage before replacing front pads with Almera Classic amounts to 30–50 thousand km, but this indicator greatly depends on the driving style and the quality of the pads themselves. For example, budget analogues can be “eaten up” after 20 thousand km, while premium options (for example, ATE or Brembo) serve up to 60 thousand km. It is also important to take into account that Almera Classic with engines 1.5 (QG15DE) And 1.8 (QG18DE) pads of different sizes can be installed - this often becomes the cause of mistakes when purchasing.

How can you tell if your front pads are worn out?

The first and most obvious sign is creaking or whistling when braking. On Almera Classic this is often associated with metal wear indicators that begin to rub against the disc when the thickness of the friction layer of the pad is reduced to critical levels 2–3 mm. However, squeaking does not always mean wear: sometimes it appears due to dirt or incompatibility of the pad and disc materials.

Other symptoms:

• 🔴 Increased braking distance — the pads do not provide sufficient pressure to the disc.
• 🔴 Vibration or beat on the steering wheel when braking - may indicate uneven wear of the pads or deformation of the discs.
• 🔴 Metal clang - a signal that the friction layer has completely worn out and the metal base of the pad is rubbing against the disc (this leads to expensive repairs!).
• 🔴 Brake light came on on the dashboard (on models with wear sensors).

On Almera Classic it is also worth paying attention to dust on wheels. If it has become darker and more abundant, this is a sign of active wear of the pads (especially if they are semi-metallic). For an accurate diagnosis, it is enough to visually inspect the pads through the wheel spokes or remove it - the thickness of the friction layer must be at least 5–6 mm.

Original and similar pads: part numbers and comparison

Original front pads for Nissan Almera Classic supplied under article number 40520-4M000 (for most versions) or 40520-4M005 (for models with ABS). However, their price often forces owners to look for analogues. The table below shows proven options indicating compatibility and features:

Brand	Article	Material type	Features	Average price, rub.
Nissan (original)	40520-4M000	Semi-metallic	Optimal balance of wear resistance and braking properties. Suitable for all modifications Almera Classic.	2 500–3 200
ATE	13.0460-7118.2	Ceramic	Less dusty, but can creak at low temperatures. High resource.	2 200–2 800
Brembo	P 24 020	Low metal	Aggressive braking, but rapid disc wear. Recommended for sporty driving style.	2 800–3 500
Ferodo	FDB1464	Semi-metallic	Budget option with good braking properties. May be more dusty than the original.	1 500–2 000
TRW	GDB1468	Organic	Soft pads are gentle on discs, but last less. Suitable for a quiet ride.	1 800–2 300

When choosing analogues, pay attention to article correspondence - for example, pads for Almera Classic N16 with ABS may not fit B10 without ABS due to the different shape of the bracket. It is also important to consider friction lining material:

• 🔹 Semi-metallic - durable, but noisy and aggressive to disks.
• 🔹 Ceramic - quiet and generate little dust, but more expensive and may work worse in cold weather.
• 🔹 Organic - soft, discs are gentle, but wear out quickly.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing front pads

Replacing the pads with Almera Classic does not require specialized tools, but will require accuracy. Important: on this model, after replacing the pads, you must bleed the brake system if you removed the hoses or opened the fluid reservoir. Here's what you'll need:

Jack and supports (or lift)

Balloon wrench

Socket set and ratchet wrench

Flathead screwdriver or pry bar

Brake Fluid (DOT-4)

Hammer (for gently tapping the caliper)

New pads and guide lube (e.g. Slipkote 220-R DBC)-->

Replacement algorithm:

1. Raise the car and remove the wheel. Be sure to secure the machine with supports!
2. Unscrew the lower caliper bolt (usually on 14 or 17). You don’t have to touch the top one - the caliper will rotate on it like on a hinge.
3. Lift the caliper up and secure it with wire or rope to prevent damage to the brake hose.
4. Remove old pads. If they are stuck, carefully pry them off with a screwdriver.
5. Clean the guides remove dirt from the calipers and apply new grease to them.
6. Install new pads, observing the position (external/internal). On Almera Classic Asymmetry is common - check the marks.
7. Press in the caliper piston back (for example, with a clamp or an adjustable wrench). Do not use pliers - they will damage the boot!
8. Reassemble everything in reverse order and repeat for the second wheel.

After replacement press the brake pedal several timesso that the pistons are straightened and the pads are in place. Then check the brake fluid level in the reservoir - it may have risen after pressing the pistons.

What should I do if the caliper piston does not press in?

If the piston does not return to its original position, it is most likely jammed due to corrosion or a damaged boot. In this case:

1. Remove the caliper completely by disconnecting the brake hose (pre-close it with a plug to prevent fluid from leaking out).

2. Carefully remove the piston using compressed air (supply it into the hose hole) or a special puller.

3. Clean the piston and cylinder from rust, replace the boot and cuff.

4. Lubricate the new parts with brake grease and assemble the caliper.

If the piston is damaged, the caliper assembly will need to be replaced.

Typical mistakes when replacing pads on Almera Classic

Even experienced car owners sometimes make mistakes that lead to quick pad failure or damage to the brake system. Here are the most common:

⚠️ Attention: Never use WD-40 or other penetrating lubricants for caliper guides! They corrode rubber boots and cuffs. Use only specialized copper or ceramic based lubricants.

• 🚫 Forgetting to lubricate the guides - this leads to the caliper jamming and uneven wear of the pads.
• 🚫 Install the pads in reverse - on Almera Classic The inner and outer pads may differ in shape (for example, with grooves for wear sensors).
• 🚫 The condition of the brake discs is not checked. If the disc has deep grooves (more than 1 mm) or a “wave” (runout more than 0.05 mm), it needs to be sharpened or replaced.
• 🚫 Ignore brake fluid. After replacing the pads, the level in the reservoir rises - if you do not top up or bleed the system, an air lock may occur.

Another common problem is new pads squeak. On Almera Classic this may be due to:

• 🔧 Lack of anti-squeak plates (they need to be transferred from old pads or purchased additionally).
• 🔧 Poor quality lubrication on the back side of the pads (use Anti-Squeal Paste).
• 🔧 Incompatibility of pad and disc material (for example, ceramics + cast iron disc).

When do you need to change not only the pads, but also the discs?

Brake discs on Almera Classic have a resource 80–120 thousand km, but their condition must be checked every time the pads are replaced. Critical signs of disc wear:

• 🛑 Disc thickness less than 19 mm (value for Almera Classic - 22–24 mm).
• 🛑 Deep grooves or cracks on the work surface.
• 🛑 Disc runout (feels like vibration on the steering wheel when braking).
• 🛑 blue tint - a sign of overheating and changes in the structure of the metal.

If the discs are worn out, they can be sharpened (if the remaining thickness allows), but most often it is cheaper and safer to replace them. Original front discs for Almera Classic go under the article 40500-4M000 (ventilated) or 40500-4M025 (non-ventilated for basic versions). Among analogues they have proven themselves well ATE (24.0120-0117.1) and Brembo (09.9662.11).

⚠️ Attention: When replacing disks, be sure to check the condition wheel bearings. On Almera Classic Their wear is often disguised as problems with the brakes (for example, a hum when driving). If the bearing is loose, it must be replaced along with the disk.

Tips for extending pad life

Even the most expensive pads will not last long if you do not follow simple operating rules. For Almera Classic especially important:

• 🚗 Avoid hard braking at high speeds - this leads to overheating and accelerated wear.
• 🚗 Don't keep your foot on the brake pedal when moving (for example, on a descent). Use engine braking.
• 🚗 Clean your brakes regularly from dirt and dust (especially after off-road driving).
• 🚗 Check the brake fluid level every 10 thousand km - its low level impairs the performance of the calipers.
• 🚗 Monitor the condition of the anthers caliper guides and pistons. Their damage leads to corrosion and jamming.

It is also worth considering seasonality: in winter, pads wear out faster due to salt and reagents on the roads. After the winter period, it is recommended to wash the brake mechanisms with water (without detergents!) and check the condition of the lubrication on the guides.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about Almera Classic front pads

Is it possible to put chocks on only one wheel?

No! Pads are always changed pair on one axis (i.e. on both front wheels at the same time). Otherwise, the braking force will be distributed unevenly, which will lead to the car pulling to the side when braking.

How much do original pads cost and where can I buy them?

Original pads Nissan (40520-4M000) cost about 2,500–3,200 rub. per set for both wheels. You can buy them from official dealers or trusted online stores (for example, Exist.ru, Autodoc). Beware of fakes - the original always comes in branded packaging with a hologram.

What tools are needed to replace the pads?

Minimum set:

• Jack and wheel wrench.
• Head on 14 or 17 (for caliper bolts).
• Flat-head screwdriver or pry bar (for spreading the pads).
• Clamp or adjustable wrench (for pressing in the piston).
• Brake lubricant (eg Slipkote or Molykote).

For convenience it is also useful socket wrench with ratchet handle And torque wrench (so as not to overtighten the caliper bolts).

What should I do if the brake pedal becomes soft after replacing the pads?

This is a sign air entering the brake system. Required:

1. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir (add if necessary).
2. Bleed the brakes (starting with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder).
3. Check the tightness of the hoses and connections - there may be liquid leaking somewhere.

If the problem persists, contact a service center to diagnose the master brake cylinder.

Which pads are best for city driving?

Optimal for the city ceramic or semi-metallic medium hard pads, for example:

• ATE Ceramic (13.0460-7118.2) - little dust, quiet.
• Ferodo Premier (FDB1464) - a budget option with good braking properties.
• Nissan original — reliable balance of price and quality.

Avoid pads that are too soft (organic) - they wear out quickly with frequent braking.