Removing the rear drum on a Nissan Terrano: instructions with photos and tips

Rear brake drum on Nissan Terrano (especially models R51 And R20) is a node that sooner or later requires attention. Corrosion, wear of pads or bearings, and sometimes even banal “sticking” to the hub force owners to undertake its dismantling. But if everything is more or less clear with the front discs, then the rear drum often raises questions: how to remove it without damage, what tools are needed and what to do if it “doesn’t work”?

In this article we will analyze the process of removing the rear drum on Terrano step by step - from preparation to final inspection. Let's pay attention typical mistakeswhich lead to parts breaking, and we will give advice on how to avoid jamming during reassembly. And if you have never worked with the brake system, don’t worry: the instructions are adapted for beginners.

Preparation: Tools and Safety Precautions

Before you begin dismantling, make sure you have everything you need. Without the right tools, removing the drum can be a pain in the ass, or even result in damage to the hub or bearing.

Here minimum setwhich you will need:

• 🔧 Socket wrench or socket on 17 mm (for wheel removal)
• 🔧 Head or key on 12 mm (for guide pins, if any)
• 🔧 Brake drum puller (or two M8×1.25 bolts with nuts as an alternative)
• 🔧 Hammer (preferably with a rubber or plastic head)
• 🔧 WD-40 or similar penetrating compound
• 🔧 Jack and stops (required!)
• 🔧 Gloves and safety glasses (small rust fragments may fly into your eyes)

⚠️ Attention: Under no circumstances should you start work if the car is only on a jack! Place blocks under the opposite wheel or use a stand. Terrano The vehicle is heavy and falling off the jack can cause serious injury.

Also prepare your workspace: level ground (not sloped!), good lighting and access to tools. If the drum has not been removed for a long time, there is a high probability that it has become “stuck” to the hub. In this case, you will need patience and special removal technique (we’ll talk about it below).

Step 1: Removing the wheel and accessing the drum

Start by loosening the wheel bolts before lifting the car. This is important: if you try to unscrew them with a hanging wheel, the car may jump off the jack. Use a wheelbrace or socket on 17 mm.

Next:

1. Raise the back Terrano with a jack, placing it under a special place on the threshold (see operating manual).
2. Secure the car to supports (for example, under the front wheel on the opposite side).
3. Remove the wheel and set it aside.

Now you have a brake drum in front of you. On some modifications Terrano (especially with ABS) there may be additional sensors or wires - carefully disconnect them if they are in the way. Do not pull the wires by force!

Step 2: Brake Drum Removal - Basic Methods

This is where the fun begins. Drum on Nissan Terrano may be tight for three reasons:

1. Corrosion between hub and drum.
2. A groove on the working surface (side) that clings to the pads.
3. A bearing that has become “jammed” over time.

Standard procedure:

1. Check for guide pins on the drum (usually under the plugs). If there is, unscrew them with the key to 12 mm.
2. Tap the drum in a circle with a rubber mallet to break the corrosive “seize.”
3. Try tightening the drum with your hands, rocking it from side to side.

If the drum does not budge, use puller or a homemade device made of two bolts:

• 🔩 Screw the bolts into the threaded holes on the drum (usually they are for the puller).
• 🔩 Twist them evenly until the drum begins to move.
• 🔩 As soon as a gap appears, spray with WD-40 and tap with a hammer again.

⚠️ Attention: Do not use a metal hammer to hit the drum directly - it may break! Strike only through a wooden spacer or use a rubber striker.

What to do if the drum cannot be removed at all?

If neither the puller nor the bolts help, you will have to use “heavy artillery”:

1. Completely unscrew the guide pins (if present).

2. Apply a mixture of WD-40 and kerosene (50/50) to the joint between the drum and the hub and let it sit for 30–60 minutes.

3. Use a ratchet with an extension and a 17mm socket to “break” the drum evenly out of place.

4. As a last resort, contact a service center - they have hydraulic pullers that can cope with the most severe corrosion.

Step 3: Checking the Condition of the Drum and Hub

When the drum is finally removed, inspect it for:

• 🔍 Cracks or chips (if there are any, just replace them!).
• 🔍 Deep development (a side of more than 1 mm is a sign of wear).
• 🔍 Corrosion on the landing surface of the hub.

Also check:

• 🔧 Condition of the brake pads (the thickness of the friction material must be at least 2–3 mm).
• 🔧 Hub bearing: twist it by hand - play or noise indicates the need for replacement.
• 🔧 Anthers and guides (if they are damaged, moisture and dirt will quickly damage new parts).

If the drum is in good condition, it can be ground (but not more than 2 mm from the nominal diameter!). However, on Terrano with its weight and loads, it is better to install a new one - a groove often gives a temporary effect.

Parameter	Norm	Critical wear
Drum diameter (standard)	250–255 mm	More 257 mm
Pad thickness	From 5 mm	Less 2 mm
Bearing play	Missing	More 0.5 mm
Bead on working edge	Before 0.5 mm	More 1 mm

Step 4: Reassembly - nuances and errors

Reinstalling the drum seems simple, but many people make mistakes here, which then lead to squeaks or uneven wear. Here are the key points:

1. Cleaning seating surfaces. Remove all rust and dirt from the hub and inside of the drum. Use a metal brush and brake cleaner.
2. Lubrication. Apply a thin layer high temperature copper grease to the hub seat. Do not use graphite or lithol - they cannot withstand heat!
3. Centering. Make sure that the drum sits evenly and without distortion. If it bites the pads, check the parking brake adjustment.
4. Puff. If there are guide pins, tighten them firmly 20–25 Nm (do not overtighten!).

After installation, press the brake pedal several times until the pads are in working position. Then check:

• 🔹 Is there any beating of the drum when the wheel rotates?
• 🔹 Do the pads fit evenly (can be seen through the viewing window in the shield).
• 🔹 Does the drum touch the suspension elements when rotating?

⚠️ Attention: If the wheel rotates slowly after assembly, the bearing is most likely overtightened or the parking brake is not adjusted. Don't ignore this - overheating brakes is dangerous!

Checked wheel mounting|Brake fluid is normal|No leaks from brake cylinder|Parking brake adjusted|Drum does not interfere with suspension components-->

Typical problems and their solutions

Even with careful work, difficulties can arise. Let's look at the most common ones:

1. The drum does not sit back

Reasons:

• 🔧 The pads are too far apart (they need to be brought together using an adjusting mechanism).
• 🔧 There is a rim left on the working surface of the drum (sharpen or replace).
• 🔧 The hub bearing is loose (check the play).

2. Creaking when braking

Most often the culprits are:

• 🔧 Contamination of the pads or drum (clean with acetone).
• 🔧 Lack of lubrication on the guide pads.
• 🔧 Poor quality pads (replace with original or proven analogue).

3. The car pulls to the side

This talks about:

• 🔧 Uneven wear of pads or drums (replace with a pair!).
• 🔧 Jammed brake cylinder (needs repair or replacement).
• 🔧 Different pressures in the brake system circuits (check at a service station).

If the problem remains after replacing the drum, contact a diagnostician - it may not be the fault, but other elements of the suspension or steering.

When is it better to trust the professionals?

Some situations require experience and special equipment. Contact the service if:

• 🚨 The drum is cracked or deformed (needs replacement and checking the hub).
• 🚨 The hub bearing “buzzes” or has play (it needs to be replaced by a press).
• 🚨 Brake cylinder leaks or does not move (needs repair kit or replacement).
• 🚨 After replacing the drum, the wheel rotates unevenly (a crooked hub is possible).

It is also worth entrusting the work to a specialist if you have never dealt with the brake system. Mistakes here can cost your safety!

Average cost of replacing a rear drum Nissan Terrano in the service: 1 500–3 000 ₽ per side (excluding spare parts). If you did it yourself, congratulations! Now you know how to avoid getting stuck in the future.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about removing the drum on Terrano

Is it possible to drive if the drum is cracked?

No! A crack in the drum is a risk of its destruction while driving, especially during sudden braking. Even a small crack will expand over time due to heat. Replace drum immediately.

Which puller is suitable for Terrano?

A universal puller for drums with claws adjustable to the diameter is suitable 250–300 mm. For Terrano R51 a puller is often used LASER 3316 or analogues. An alternative is M8×1.25 bolts 50–60 mm long with nuts.

Do I need to change drums in pairs?

Yes, if the wear or damage is significant. Different thicknesses of the drums on the axles lead to uneven braking and the car pulling to the side. An exception is if one drum is almost new, and the second is mechanically damaged (for example, after an accident).

How to lubricate the hub before installing the drum?

Use high temperature copper grease (For example, LIQUI MOLY Kupfer-Paste or Permatex Copper Anti-Seize). Do not apply it to the working surface of the drum or pad!

Why did the brake pedal become soft after replacing the drum?

Most likely there is air left in the system. Bleed the brakes, starting with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder (at Terrano this is usually the rear right). Also check the brake fluid level.