Removing the rear drum on a Nissan Note: detailed instructions with photos and tips

Rear brake drum on Nissan Note - a unit that sooner or later requires attention: be it replacing pads, repairing a brake cylinder, or eliminating runout during braking. However, its dismantling often causes difficulties even for experienced car owners. Unlike disc brakes, where everything is intuitive, the drum system contains a number of hidden fastenings, corrosion “surprises” and nuances associated with the suspension design Note.

In this article we will look at the process of removing the rear drum step by step, taking into account typical problems: from “stuck” drums to mounting features on different generations Nissan Note (E11, E12). You will learn which tools are really necessary (and how specialized pullers can be replaced), how to avoid damage wheel bearing, and what to do if the drum does not budge despite all efforts. And at the end - answers to frequently asked questions and life hacks from service station experts.

Preparation: tools and working conditions

Before you begin dismantling, make sure you have everything you need. Tool disadvantage or improper preparation can turn a 20-minute operation into an hours-long battle with rust.

Here minimum set, which you can’t do without:

• 🔧 Balloon wrench (to remove the wheel).
• 🔧 Jack and stops (be sure to secure the car!).
• 🔧 Socket heads by 14 mm and 17 mm (for unscrewing the guide pins).
• 🔧 Hammer (preferably rubber or with a plastic striker).
• 🔧 WD-40 or similar penetrating compound (for treating rusty joints).
• 🔧 Drum puller (optional, but extremely useful for “stuck” parts).
• 🔧 Flat head screwdriver (to pry off the bearing protective cap).
• 🔧 Torque wrench (for proper tightening of the guides during reassembly).

Also prepare workspace:

• 🚗 The car must be parked flat surface (asphalt, concrete).
• 🔦 Lighting: use flashlight or carrier - back part Note often darkened.
• 🧤 Gloves: protect hands from sharp drum edges and chemicals.

⚠️ Attention: Never operate a jack without safety stops! Nissan Note has a high seating position at the rear, and even a slight shift can cause the car to fall. Use wheel chocks under the front wheels and additional support under the threshold.

Step 1: Removing the Wheel and Accessing the Drum

Start with loosening wheel nutswhile the car is still on the ground. This will prevent the wheel from spinning when unscrewing. Then:

1. Raise the back Note jack, placing it under special socket on the threshold (see the instructions for the car).
2. Remove the wheel and set it aside.
3. Clear brake mechanism remove dirt with a brush or compressed air - this will help prevent debris from getting inside the drum.

Now you will have a view of brake drum, which is attached to the hub with two guide pins. On some versions Nissan Note (especially with ABS) may be present speed sensor - Be careful not to damage its wiring.

Step 2: Unscrewing the guide pins

Drum on Nissan Note fixed with two studs and nuts on 14 mm (less often - by 17 mm). Here's how to remove them correctly:

1. Process the threads of the studs WD-40 and wait 5-10 minutes.
2. Use socket head with an extension to unscrew the nuts. Don't use leverage - this could break the pin!
3. If the nut does not budge, try light blows with a hammer on the head of the key (not on the nut itself!).

After removing the nuts, remove the studs and set them aside. On some Note models, the studs may have left-hand threads - this is normal, don't be alarmed! Pay attention to the condition of the threads: if they are damaged, it is better to replace the studs.

Problem	Reason	Solution
The nut does not unscrew	Corroded or deformed threads	Process WD-40, use penetrating lubricant with molybdenum
The hairpin turns	The thread in the hub is broken	Clamp the pin with pliers and carefully unscrew
The hairpin broke	Excessive force or corrosion	Drill out the remaining parts and cut new threads

Step 3: Removing the drum - the main difficulties

Now the most crucial moment - removing the drum from the hub. Ideally, it should come off with light effort, but in practice problems often arise:

• 🔴 The drum got stuck to the hub due to corrosion.
• 🔴 Drum edge catches for the brake pads.
• 🔴 Wheel bearing interferes with dismantling (especially over 100,000 km).

To remove the drum:

1. Make sure handbrake released - otherwise the pads will block the drum.
2. Apply WD-40 or graphite based lubricant along the mating edge of the drum and hub.
3. Light blows rubber mallet tap the drum around the circumference, alternating sides.
4. If the drum does not move, use puller or two M8 bolts, screwing them into the threaded holes of the drum (if any).

⚠️ Attention: Never beat the drum metal hammer - this may deform it or damage the wheel bearing. If the drum doesn't budge, try heat it with a hair dryer (up to 100–150°C) - this will help destroy corrosion bonds.

Handbrake released|Studs treated with WD-40|Guide studs removed|Puller or M8 bolts prepared|Vehicle stability checked on stops-->

Step 4: Inspection and diagnosis after removal

When the drum is finally removed, carefully inspect:

• 🔍 The inner surface of the drum for deep grooves, cracks or uneven wear. Allowable wear - up to 1 mm from the nominal diameter.
• 🔍 Brake pads: the residual thickness of the friction material must be at least 1.5–2 mm.
• 🔍 Working cylinder — whether there are any brake fluid leaks or corrosion on the pistons.
• 🔍 Wheel bearing: Play or noise during rotation indicates the need for replacement.

If the drum has critical wear (deep grooves, ellipse more than 0.15 mm), it must be replaced. The same applies to pads with a residual thickness of less than 1.5 mm. Remember: uneven wear drum may indicate a malfunction of the working cylinder or a jammed piston.

How to check the drum beat without a special tool?

Place the drum back on the hub and secure it with two nuts (do not fully tighten). Rotate the drum by hand and watch the gap between it and the stationary screwdriver resting against the edge. If the gap changes by more than 0.5 mm, the drum requires grooving or replacement.

Step 5: Reassembly - nuances and errors

Putting the drum in place seems simple, but this is where the majority of the problems lie. typical mistakes:

1. Clean the seat on the hub from rust and dirt. Use wire brush or sandpaper.
2. Apply to hub edge thin layer of high temperature grease (For example, Molykote G-Rapid Plus) - this will prevent “sticking” in the future.
3. Make sure brake pads are installed correctly and do not catch on the drum. If necessary, adjust their position using eccentric mechanism (on some versions Note).
4. Tighten the guide pins torque wrench with effort 40–50 Nm (Tightening may deform the drum).

After assembly be sure to check:

• 🔹 Handbrake performance (should be kept at 3-4 clicks).
• 🔹 No drum beating when the wheel rotates.
• 🔹 Tightness of the brake cylinder (no fluid leaks).

⚠️ Attention: If after assembly the brakes are “wobbly” or the pedal sinks, it means that air has entered the system. Bleed the brakes in order: right rear → left rear → right front → left front wheel.

Common problems and their solutions

Even with careful dismantling, emergency situations may arise. Let's look at the most common ones:

Problem	Possible reason	Remedy
The drum won't go back down	Pads are loose or deformed	Adjust the pads with an eccentric or recess the cylinder pistons
Creaking noise when braking	Dirt getting between the pad and the drum	Clean surfaces, apply anti-squeak paste
Brakes are “wobbly” after assembly	Air entering the system	Bleed the brake system
Steering wheel wobble when braking	Drum deformation or uneven wear	Grind or replace the drum

If the braking distance increases after replacing the pads or drum, check:

• 🔧 Condition brake hoses (are there any cracks or creases).
• 🔧 Level and quality brake fluid (it should be transparent, without sediment).
• 🔧 Job master cylinder (no leaks or corrosion).

FAQ: Answers to frequently asked questions

Is it possible to remove the drum without a puller?

Yes, but it will require more effort. Alternative ways:

• Use two M8 bolts, screwing them into the threaded holes of the drum (if any) until they stop at the hub.
• Carefully tap with a rubber mallet around the circumference of the drum, alternating sides.
• Apply lever (for example, a crowbar), resting it on the drum and hub, but this is risky for the bearing.

If the drum does not move, do not apply excessive force - it is better to process the joint WD-40 and wait 30–60 minutes.

How do you understand that the drum needs to be replaced and not sharpened?

Replacement is required in the following cases:

• The groove depth exceeds 1 mm.
• On the surface there is cracks or chips.
• Drum diameter exceeds maximum permissible (specified in the repair manual Nissan Note).
• The drum has ellipse more than 0.15 mm (checked with a micrometer).

The groove is justified only when even wear and no damage. After grooving, be sure to check the drum balancing!

What should I do if the wheel is difficult to rotate after removing the drum?

Causes and solutions:

• Jammed working cylinder piston → Disassemble and clean the cylinder or replace it.
• Heavily worn or deformed pads → Replace the pads and adjust the gap.
• Dirt getting between the pad and the shield → Clean and lubricate the guides.
• Overtightened guide pins → Loosen and tighten to the correct torque (40–50 Nm).

Do I need to lubricate the guide pins when reassembling them?

Yes, but proper lubrication! Use:

• High temperature grease (For example, Molykote G-Rapid Plus or Loctite LB 8008).
• Graphite grease (for threaded connections).

Do not use Litol or solid oil - they cannot withstand high temperatures and can lead to “sticking”.

How often do rear drum brakes on a Nissan Note need to be serviced?

Recommended intervals:

• Inspection of pads and drum - every 20,000–30,000 km.
• Replacing pads - when worn to 1.5–2 mm (usually after 40,000–60,000 km).
• Drum replacement - when exceeding the maximum diameter or deep grooves.
• Checking the working cylinder — every time you remove the drum (especially if there are liquid leaks).

When aggressive driving style or operation in high humidity conditions, intervals are reduced by 20–30%.