Removing the center console of Nissan Almera Classic: instructions with nuances

Removing the center console on Nissan Almera Classic (body B10, 2006–2012) is a task that owners face when repairing a stove, replacing a radio, diagnosing electrical wiring, or eliminating squeaks. Unlike modern models, where the panel is secured with latches, here you will have to work with screws and hidden fasteners. Errors during dismantling can lead to breakage of plastic clips or damage to connectors CAN buses.

This article contains a step-by-step analysis, taking into account features of console mounting on Almera Classic with manual and automatic transmission (differences in shift lever placement affect bolt access). We will indicate the tools that you really need, and not the standard “screwdriver and patience” set, and we will warn you against typical mistakes that cause climate control unit latches to break.

Preparation: Tools and Precautions

Before starting work, make sure you have:

• 🔧 10 mm socket wrench (for bolts securing the console to the body).
• 🔧 Phillips screwdriver PH2 (for panel and glove box screws).
• 🔧 Plastic spatulas or mediators (so as not to damage the casing).
• 📦 Container for small items (screws and clips are easily lost).
• 🔋 Multimeter (to check connectors after disconnection).

Important: If you are removing the console for repairs stoves or climate control unit, buy spare ones in advance fastening clips (article 73211-3W000 for Almera Classic). They often break the first time they are dismantled. Also prepare electrical tape for marking connectors - there are at least 4 of them on the console, and they all look similar.

⚠️ Attention: If your Almera Classic equipped with a passenger airbag, disable negative battery terminal 10 minutes before the start of work. The contact group of the airbag may be triggered if the connector is accidentally shorted SRS (yellow connector under the glove compartment).

Step 1: Removing decorative panels and glove compartment

Start with removal bottom pad under the glove compartment. It is attached to 2 screws (on the sides) and 3 plastic clips. Carefully pry it off with a spatula, starting from the right side - that’s where the latch is the most fragile. If the cover does not budge, check whether you forgot to unscrew the screw under trunk release button (it is hidden by a stub).

Next, remove glove compartment:

1. Open it and take out all the contents.
2. Push the side walls inward to release the latches.
3. Lower the glove compartment down, but do not pull sharply: it is connected to backlight bulb (white connector).

Disconnected battery terminal (for SRS)|Removed the lower trim under the glove compartment|Disconnected the glove compartment light connector|Removed all small items from the interior (screws, clips, etc.)-->

Under the glove compartment you will see fuse box (black box). It is not necessary to remove it, but if it interferes, unscrew the 2 screws on the sides and move it to the side. Don't pull the wires!

Step 2: Disconnecting the connectors and removing the gearshift lever cover

This is where the differences begin mechanics And machine gun:

• 🚗 On Manual transmission: the gear shift lever is attached to the rocker with four bolts under 10 mm socket wrench. They need to be unscrewed, but not completely - loosened enough to lift the lever.
• 🚗 On Automatic transmission: the cover is attached to 2 screws (front) and latches. Use a spatula to pry it from behind, where it is located selector unlock button.

After removing the cover you will have access to 4 console mounting bolts (2 on each side of the gearshift lever). They are easy to miss if you don't know their exact location. Also note parking brake cable - you don’t need to disconnect it, but lift it up a little so as not to damage the shell.

What to do if the gearshift lever cannot be removed?

If the lever “sours” and does not rise after unscrewing the bolts, do not use force! Spray the mounting area WD-40 and wait 10 minutes. Then gently swing the lever left and right. Sometimes it interferes with automatic transmissions selector cable — it needs to be disconnected from the backstage (the lock is in the form of a metal bracket).

Step 3: Removing the center console - step by step

Now let's move on to the console itself. It is attached to:

• 🔩 4 bolts under the gearshift lever (already unscrewed in the previous step).
• 🔩 2 screws under climate control unit (hidden under plugs).
• 🔩 2 bolts at the base (passenger side, under the glove compartment).
• 🔗 6 plastic clips around the perimeter (3 on top, 3 on bottom).

Procedure:

1. Unscrew the screws under climate control. Remove the plugs with a flat screwdriver, prying them from the side.
2. Disconnect the connectors from seat heating buttons (if any) and cigarette lighter. The cigarette lighter connector often “sticks” - do not pull, but gently wiggle it left and right.
3. Use a spatula to pry the console from the side (driver's side) and pull it towards you. The latches should come out with a characteristic click.
4. Lift the console and disconnect the remaining connectors:
   • 🔌 CAN bus (orange connector, 16 pins).
   • 🔌 Gearshift lever illumination (small white connector).
   • 🔌 Climate control unit (wide gray connector).

⚠️ Attention: Connector CAN buses has latch (small lever on the side). If you do not press it out, you will damage the contacts, which will lead to errors on the dashboard (for example, U1000 — loss of communication with the control unit).

Table: Location of connectors and their purpose

Connector	Color	Purpose	Disabling Features
CAN bus	Orange	Communication with the engine control unit	Press the latch before removing
Climate control	Gray (wide)	Stove and ventilation control	The terminals are fragile - do not pull the wires
Cigarette lighter	Black	Power supply 12V	It often “sticks” - spray the contact with cleaner
Gearbox lighting	White (small)	Light under the lever	Connector without a latch - comes out with a slight force
Heated seats	Brown	Power supply for heating elements	Only on trim levels with the option

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced professionals make mistakes when disassembling the console Almera Classic. Here are the most common:

• 🔧 Broken climate control latches. Reason: attempt to remove the panel without unscrewing the screws under the plugs. Solution: buy clips in advance 73211-3W000.
• 🔌 Torn CAN bus connectors. Reason: forgot to release the latch. Solution: check for errors with a scanner (for example, U1000 or U1010).
• 🔥 Cigarette lighter short circuit. Reason: positive contact touching ground. Solution: Insulate the connector before disconnecting.
• 🔊 Lost screws. Reason: working in tight spaces without a container. Solution: Use a magnetic screwdriver.

Another common problem is squeaks after reassembly. They appear if:

• The bolts under the gearshift lever are not tightened (check the tightening torque - 8–10 Nm).
• The rubber gasket between the console and the body is damaged (part number 80310-4M000).
• Connector not connected masses (black wire under the glove compartment).

Reassembly: nuances and verification

Installing the console occurs in the reverse order, but there are several critical points:

1. Connect all connectors before fixing the console with bolts. Make sure that the connector latches engage (you should hear a click).
2. Check your work climate control buttons And backlight until the bolts are fully tightened.
3. Tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern to avoid distortion of the console.
4. After assembly, check:
   • 🔹 Job stoves (all airflow modes).
   • 🔹 Display errors on the dashboard (if there are any, reset them with a scanner).
   • 🔹 Fixing the gearshift lever (there should be no backlash).

If after assembly there are errors on the panel (For example, P0603 - control unit memory error), disconnect the battery for 5 minutes. This will reset temporary glitches in CAN bus.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about removing the console

Is it possible to remove the console without disconnecting the battery?

Theoretically yes, but only if your Almera Classic not equipped with a passenger airbag. If there is a pillow (check by VIN or the presence of the inscription SRS on the glove compartment), disconnecting the battery is mandatory! The risk of the squib triggering when the connector is shorted is too high.

How to remove the console if all the latches are broken?

In this case, the console will only be held on by bolts, which will lead to vibrations. Solution:

1. Buy a repair kit for clamps (item no. 73211-3W000 for Almera Classic).
2. Use 3M double sided tape for temporary fixation (but this is not a long-term solution).
3. Check to see if the console is being sold dismantled - sometimes it is cheaper to buy it entirely.

What to do if the stove does not work after assembly?

The reasons may be different:

• 🔌 The connector is not connected climate control unit (gray, wide).
• 🔧 The bolts securing the console to the body are not tightened (this affects the position of the damper cables).
• 🔥 Fuse blown F30 (10A) in the block under the hood (check with a multimeter).

Start by checking the connectors and fuses. If the heater only blows at maximum speed, the problem is fan resistor (article 27510-4M000).

How long does it take to remove the console?

If you have the tools and experience - 30–40 minutes. If you are doing this for the first time, reserve 1.5–2 hours. Most time is spent on:

• Search for hidden screws (especially under climate control plugs).
• Carefully disconnecting connectors CAN buses and a cigarette lighter.
• The fight against “stuck” plastic fasteners.

Is it possible to remove the console without removing the gearshift lever?

Technically possible, but extremely inconvenient. Without removing the arm (or at least loosening the bolts), you will not have access to the two console mounting bolts that are located directly underneath it. There is also a high risk of damage gear lever cover (article 32511-4M000) when trying to pull the console "inside out".