The braking system is the foundation of any vehicle's safety, and Nissan Almera Classic This is no exception. The rear brakes on this model often raise questions among owners due to their specific design with an integrated parking brake. Many people mistakenly believe that these are ordinary disc brakes, where it is enough to compress the piston, but the reality requires a more careful approach.
If you notice a squeak when braking, a decrease in stopping efficiency, or visual wear of the friction linings, it's time to think about replacing consumables. Carrying out the work yourself will save a significant amount in service costs, but will require certain tools and an understanding of the mechanics of the process. Signs of wear should not be ignored, as this can lead to damage to the brake disc.
In this article we will analyze each stage of dismantling and installing new elements. We will pay special attention to the piston release mechanism, since this is where problems most often arise for beginners. Proper preparation and adherence to the sequence of actions guarantee reliable operation of the brakes after repair.
Necessary tools and workplace preparation
Before starting work, it is important to collect all the necessary equipment so as not to be distracted by searching in the garage. A standard kit for replacing pads includes a jack, car stands and keys, but for Nissan Almera Classic there are some nuances. You will need a special tool to press in the caliper piston, as a simple jack will not work here.
To dismantle the caliper, you will need a 14mm wrench to unscrew the guide brackets and a 17mm wrench to remove the wheel. It is also advisable to have hexagons, since some fastening bolts may fit under them. Don't forget about a wheel wrench and a torque wrench if you have one in your arsenal - this will help avoid overtightening the bolts.
- 🔧 Socket set and ratchet (keys 14, 17, 19)
- 🛠️ Special tool for rolling the caliper piston
- 🧼Brake cleaner and guide lube
- 🔨 Hammer and pry bar for dismantling stuck parts
The work area must be level and firm. If you are working in a garage, make sure the floor is clean and there are no objects that could interfere with the vehicle being lifted. Safety is the number one priority when working on your braking system.
⚠️ Warning: Never work under a vehicle that is only supported by a jack. Be sure to use safety stands under the body to eliminate the risk of the car falling if the jack hydraulics fail.
Before starting work, it is recommended to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, although this is not always necessary when replacing pads, but it will not be an unnecessary precaution. If you have access to a diagnostic connector, you can check for errors in the ABS system to ensure they are not affecting your brakes.
Removing the wheel and brake caliper
The process begins by loosening the wheel bolts while the car is still on the ground. This will prevent the disc from spinning when the nuts are unscrewed. After this, lift the car with a jack and place it on stands.
Remove the wheel and inspect the brake disc for deep scoring or cracks. If the disc is very worn, it will also need to be replaced, otherwise the new pads will squeak or work ineffectively. Clean the caliper from dirt and dust before disassembling.
- 🔑 Unscrew the two caliper guide bolts with a 14mm wrench
- 🛑 Carefully remove the caliper without damaging the brake hose
- 🔍 Remove old pads and spring clips
- 🧽 Clean the seats from rust and plaque
The caliper is suspended by a wire or rope from the suspension so as not to damage the rubber brake hose. You cannot keep it on the hose, as this can lead to damage to the integrity of the inner rubber and subsequent leakage of brake fluid. This is a critical point that beginners often miss.
⚠️ Attention: If you do not use a wire to hang the caliper, be sure to secure it so that it does not hang from the brake hose under its own weight. This can lead to a hose rupture and complete brake failure.
After removing the caliper, pay attention to the guides. If they are rusty or have play, they must be cleaned and lubricated with a special high-temperature grease. Ignoring this step can lead to souring of the caliper and uneven pad wear in the future.
- Special puller
- Vise
- Jack
- Pliers
Rear caliper design features
Rear caliper on Nissan Almera Classic has a built-in hand brake mechanism, which significantly distinguishes it from the front one. The piston here cannot simply be pressed inward, as on the front wheels. It rotates and is simultaneously pressed into the caliper body.
To do this, use a special tool or adapter that fits the splines on the piston. If you don't have such a tool, you can try using pliers, but this is risky and may damage the piston surface. It is best to rent or buy a universal kit for rolling pistons.
Before screwing in the piston, make sure it is clean and free of burrs. If there is corrosion on the piston, it is better to replace it or thoroughly clean it with fine sandpaper. Dirt or rust can prevent proper torqueing and cause brake fluid to leak.
- 🔄 Rotate the piston clockwise when pressing
- 🛠️ Use a special adapter for the piston splines
- 👀 Monitor the condition of the piston boot
- 💧 Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir
If you use a vice, be sure to use a soft pad to avoid damaging the piston. The rotation should be smooth, without jerking. If the piston sticks, do not use excessive force as this may break the threaded part of the mechanism.
What to do if the piston does not screw in?
If the piston does not screw in, check whether you have chosen the correct direction of rotation. On Nissan rear calipers it is usually clockwise. Also make sure you don't misalign the tool, which could cause the threads to jam.
Installing new pads and assembling the unit
After preparing the piston and cleaning the seats, you can begin installing new pads. Make sure the new parts are correct for your model and year. The friction linings must fit tightly to the metal base, without gaps.
Install new pads into the caliper bracket. If the old spring clips are worn out or deformed, they must be replaced with new ones. They ensure the correct position of the pads and prevent vibrations and squeaks during braking.
☑️ Check before installation
Apply a thin layer of high temperature grease to the back of the pads and where they contact the guides. This will reduce noise and prevent jamming. Do not apply lubricant to the working surface of the pads or disc!
- 🔩 Reinstall the caliper and tighten the guides
- 🔨 Tap the caliper for a tight fit
- 🔑 Tighten the guide bolts with a torque wrench
- 🔄 Check the free play of the caliper
Assembly must be done in reverse order. Make sure all bolts are tightened to the correct torque. Pinching the bolts can lead to their failure, and insufficient tightening can lead to vibrations and self-loosening during movement.
Before installing the wheel, check that the brake disc and pads are dry and clean. Any grease on the working surface will reduce braking efficiency and cause severe squealing.
Checking the brake fluid level and bleeding
When the piston is pressed into the caliper, the brake fluid level in the reservoir rises. If the reservoir is almost full, liquid may spill out. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to pump out some of the liquid from the tank or pour it into a spare container.
After installing all wheels, check the fluid level and, if necessary, add it to the maximum. Use only the fluid specified in the manufacturer's instructions (usually DOT 4). Mixing different types of fluids is unacceptable and can lead to brake system failure.
| Liquid type | Boiling point (dry) | Boiling point (wet) | Replacement period |
|---|---|---|---|
| DOT 3 | 205°C | 140°C | 2 years |
| DOT 4 | 230°C | 155°C | 2 years |
| DOT 5.1 | 260°C | 180°C | 2 years |
Then you need to press the brake pedal several times until it becomes hard. This is necessary so that the pistons take their working position and expel air from the system. If the pedal remains soft, the brakes may need to be bled.
⚠️ Caution: If the brake pedal remains soft or sinks after replacing the pads, stop driving the vehicle immediately and check the system for air or leaks. Operating with faulty brakes is deadly.
Check the operation of the handbrake. It must fix the car on a slope and have a clear lever stroke. If the lever moves too freely, the handbrake cable may need to be adjusted or the brake pads adjusted.
The correct operation of the handbrake directly depends on the quality of the installation of the rear pads and the condition of the cable. Regular checking of this unit will prevent the car from rolling in the parking lot.
Handbrake adjustment and test drive
After all work is completed, take the vehicle for a test drive on a safe area of the road. First, break in the new pads by performing several gentle braking sessions without sudden stops. This will ensure a tight fit of the friction linings to the disc.
If you hear a squeaking or vibration when braking, the pads may be installed incorrectly or the disc may be scored. In this case, return to checking the quality of installation and cleanliness of surfaces. Ignoring extraneous sounds can lead to accelerated wear of parts.
- 🚗 Test at low speed
- 🛑 Check your braking performance
- 🔍 Inspect the wheels for fluid leaks
- 📉 Check the operation of the handbrake on a slope
If the handbrake does not hold, it needs to be adjusted. This is usually done under the car's underbody by tightening the locknut on the cable. However, if adjustment does not help, the cable may be worn out or the caliper mechanism may be faulty.
How to adjust the handbrake on Almera Classic?
To adjust the handbrake, you need to find the cable under the bottom of the car, unscrew the lock nut and tighten the adjusting nut. After this, tighten the locknut and check the number of clicks of the handbrake lever. Typically there should be 3-5 clicks.
Neglecting this aspect may result in the handbrake stopping working, which is a gross violation of traffic and safety rules.
Common mistakes and expert advice
Many owners make the mistake of trying to replace only one pad on one side. This is unacceptable, as the difference in wear will lead to uneven braking and skidding. Always change pads in pairs on the same axle.
Another common mistake is using the wrong lubricant. Regular lithium grease or graphite paste are not suitable for brake systems as they deteriorate at high temperatures. Use only specialized high-temperature compounds.
Don't forget to check the condition of the brake disc. If it is worn more than 2 mm from the nominal thickness, it must be replaced. Working with a thin disc can lead to its overheating and deformation, which will cause the steering wheel to wobble when braking.
- 🔄 Change pads only in pairs on the same axle
- 🧴Use only high temperature grease
- 📏 Control the thickness of the brake disc
- 🧼 Clean all parts from old dirt and rust
If you are not confident in your abilities or do not have the necessary tools, it is better to entrust the work to professionals. However, if you decide to do everything yourself, follow the instructions and be extremely careful.
How often do you need to change the rear pads on a Nissan Almera Classic?
The service life of the rear pads depends on driving style and operating conditions. On average they travel from 40,000 to 60,000 km. However, if you use the handbrake frequently or drive in traffic jams, the lifespan may be shorter.
Is it possible to replace the pads without removing the caliper?
No, to replace the pads you must remove the caliper. This is the only sure way to provide access to old pads and install new ones. Attempting to replace the pads without removing the caliper may damage the mechanism.
What to do if the piston does not screw back in?
If the piston does not screw in, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. If it is too high, the fluid will prevent the piston from entering. Also make sure you rotate it in the right direction and use the right tool.
Do I need to change the brake disc along with the pads?
Replacing the disc along with the pads is recommended if the disc is worn more than 2 mm from the nominal thickness or has deep grooves. If the disc is in good condition, you can leave it after cleaning and polishing it.
Why do new pads squeak?
The creaking of new pads can be caused by insufficient running-in, the presence of dirt on the surface of the disc, or the use of low-quality consumables. It may also be due to a lack of lubrication on the back of the pads or guides.