Vehicle operation Nissan Almera Classic requires regular maintenance, and the brake system comes first in importance here. Front pad wear is a natural process that directly affects your safety on the road. If you notice a creaking noise, decreased braking efficiency, or vibration in the steering wheel, you should not postpone your visit to the service center, as repairs can become significantly more expensive.
Many owners of sedans of this model prefer to perform maintenance themselves in order to save money and be confident in the quality of the installed spare parts. The replacement procedure does not require specific professional equipment, but requires the presence of a basic set of tools and compliance with the sequence of operations. Correct installation of new elements guarantees stable operation of the brakes and the absence of extraneous noise in the future.
In this material we will analyze in detail each stage of work, from preparing the car to the final check of the system. We will pay special attention to the nuances specific to the suspension and braking mechanism. Nissan Almera Classicto avoid typical mistakes that beginners make when making their first independent repairs.
Preparing the workplace and necessary tools
Before you begin mechanical work, you need to make sure that you have all the required tools and materials. The absence of at least one element may delay the process or lead to damage to parts. For working with caliper and disc on Almera Classic you will need a standard set of wrenches, including 12, 14 and 17 millimeter sockets, as well as a wheel wrench to remove the wheels.
It is important to have clean rags and brake cleaner ready, as dirt and old brake dust can adversely affect the performance of new pads. It's also a good idea to have copper grease on hand for the caliper guides and pins to ensure they move smoothly and prevent sticking in the future.
Don’t forget about personal protective equipment: gloves and goggles will help protect your hands from aggressive chemicals and your eyes from metal dust. You need to work on a level area, preferably on an inspection hole or overpass, to provide free access to the lower part of the car and the wheel arch.
- 🛠️ Wheel wrench and jack for lifting a car
- 🔧 Socket set and ratchet
- 🧼Brake Cleaner and Copper Grease
- 🧤 Protective gloves and glasses
⚠️ Attention: Never leave the car on a jack without installing safety stops (goats). The hydraulics may fail at any time, causing the machine to fall, causing serious injury.
- Ratchet of the right size
- Copper grease
- Brake cleaner
- Guide injection wrench
Removing the wheel and visually inspecting the caliper
Start by loosening the wheel bolts while the vehicle is stationary while the wheels are still off the ground. After this, lift the front of the car with a jack and place it on a secure support. Remove the wheel and carefully inspect the condition of the brake disc and caliper. Pay attention to the presence of deep marks on the disk and the integrity of the guide boot.
You need to assess the degree of pad wear visually, if the design allows. On Nissan Almera Classic You can often see the thickness of the friction lining through the hole in the caliper. If the pad has worn down to the metal base, driving the car is strictly prohibited, as you risk damaging the brake disc, which will require an expensive replacement.
Before disassembling, clean the area around the caliper from dirt. This will prevent abrasive particles from getting inside the mechanism when removing the guide covers. Use a wire brush and generously spray the area with the cleaner, allowing it time to work.
- 🔍 Check the condition of the brake disc for cracks
- 🧹 Clean the caliper from dirt before disassembling
- 👀 Assess pad wear through inspection windows
⚠️ Attention: If you find that the caliper guides have signs of corrosion or scuffing, they must be replaced or thoroughly sanded, otherwise the new pads will jam.
The process of removing the caliper and old pads
To dismantle the caliper, you need to unscrew the two guide bolts located on the inside. They usually have a hex head or a 14mm wrench. After unscrewing the bolts, the caliper must be carefully hung on a wire or hook to the suspension spring so as not to damage the brake hose. Never allow the caliper to hang from the hose under its own weight.
By removing the caliper, you will have access to the old pads. Carefully remove them from the bracket, first removing the spring clips (anti-creaking plates), if they were not built into the block itself. Pay attention to the condition of these clamps: if they are deformed or have traces of rust, they must be replaced with new ones, otherwise the squeak will not go away.
Now you need to release the caliper piston. To do this, you can use an old block and a mounting blade, recessing the piston into the cylinder. Press down smoothly, making sure that the piston goes straight out. If the piston does not budge, it may be seized from corrosion and will require a complete replacement or repair of the kit.
☑️ Removing the caliper
When removing the piston, monitor the condition of the boot. If it is torn, moisture and dirt have already entered the cylinder, which requires a major overhaul or replacement of the caliper assembly. On Nissan Almera Classic This is a common problem, which if ignored will lead to rapid wear of the new pads and leakage of brake fluid.
- 🔩 Unscrew the guide bolts with a 14 mm wrench
- 🔗 Hang the caliper on the wire without putting any strain on the hose
- 🔨 Press the piston into the cylinder using a spatula
- 🔧 Remove the anti-squeak plates to replace
What to do if the piston does not go into the cylinder?
If the piston is stuck, try gently rocking it while applying pressure. If this does not help, use a special tool to screw in the piston (for calipers with handbrake), but on the front wheel of the Almera Classic the piston is usually simply pressed in. As a last resort, removing the fluid reservoir and carefully pressing out the piston with compressed air will help, but this requires caution so as not to damage the seal.
Cleaning and preparing brake elements
The next step is to thoroughly clean the caliper bracket. Use a wire brush and cleaner to remove all rust and carbon deposits from the pad contact areas. It is critical that the pads move freely in the bracket, without the slightest jamming. Any obstruction will result in uneven wear and overheating.
The caliper guides must be lubricated with a special high-temperature grease. Apply a thin layer of it to the surface of the pins and into the holes where they are inserted. Avoid getting lubricant on the friction linings of the pads or the disc - this will lead to a complete loss of braking force and an emergency situation. Use a lubricant recommended by the manufacturer, such as molybdenum disulfide or silicone.
The brake disc also requires attention. Wipe it with a clean rag soaked in cleaner to remove oil film and dust. If the disc has deep grooves, it must be sharpened or replaced. The working surface must be perfectly smooth and clean.
Before installing new pads, lightly rub their friction linings with fine sandpaper to remove any transport varnish, if any, and to ensure a better fit to the disc during the first kilometers of driving.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to use regular motor oil or WD-40 to lubricate the guides! These substances destroy the rubber boots and are washed out when heated, which will lead to the caliper jamming.
| Parameter | Norm | Critical value | Recommendation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Brake disc thickness | 10.0 mm or more | Less than 9.8 mm | Replacing the drive |
| Friction lining thickness | 10 mm or more | Less than 2-3 mm | Replacing pads |
| Guide play | Missing | Visible play | Replacement of anthers and lubrication |
| Brake hose condition | No cracks | Cracks/bulges | Replacing the hose |
Installing new pads and caliper assembly
Installation of new pads begins with the installation of new anti-squeak plates in the bracket. They should fit snugly, but not tightly, so as not to interfere with the movement of the pads. Insert the new pads into the bracket, making sure they move freely. If the pads have metal spring clips, make sure they are latched properly.
Before placing the caliper on the disc, check that the piston is completely recessed. It should be flush with the body or slightly lower. Place the caliper on the disc and pads, aligning the holes for the guides. Carefully screw in the guide bolts and tighten them with a torque wrench to the torque specified in the manual (usually about 20-30 Nm).
After installing all the bolts, check again that the pads do not touch the disc when turning the wheel by hand. Make sure the caliper is level and not warped. This is an important step, as misalignment will lead to rapid wear and overheating of the brakes.
Properly tightened guide bolts and the absence of caliper misalignment are the key to the fact that the new pads will last the entire required period without squeaks or uneven wear.
Reinstall the wheel and tighten the bolts. Lower the vehicle to the ground and finally tighten the wheel bolts crosswise. Don't forget to remove the stops from the jack and put it away.
- 🔩 Screw in the guide bolts and tighten with a torque wrench
- 🔄 Check the free rotation of the wheel after assembly
- 🚗 Lower the car and tighten the wheel bolts
Final check and running-in of the brake system
After assembly, it is necessary to bleed the brake system if you unscrewed the fitting or if the fluid level dropped. Open the hood and check the brake fluid level in the expansion tank. If it is low, add fluid to the MAX line using only manufacturer recommended fluid (usually DOT 4).
Sit in the car and press the brake pedal firmly several times until it becomes elastic. This is necessary so that the caliper piston presses against the pads and removes the gap formed when the piston sinks. Only after this can you move off.
For the first 200-300 kilometers, you should follow the running-in regime. Avoid sudden braking and extreme loads on the braking system. This will allow the pad's friction material to adapt to the disc, providing maximum braking performance in the future.
Why did the brake pedal become soft?
If the pedal remains soft after replacing the pads, there is most likely air left in the system. The brakes need to be bled. Also check whether the brake hose was damaged when removing the caliper, as a microcrack may allow air to leak under load.
Frequently asked questions from Nissan Almera Classic owners
How much do front pads cost on a Nissan Almera Classic?
The price varies greatly depending on the manufacturer. The original (Nissan) is more expensive, but provides consistent quality. Analogues from trusted brands (for example, TRW, Bosch, Textar) are usually 30-40% cheaper and have decent quality. Focus on a budget of 1,500 to 3,000 rubles per set.
Is it possible to change only the front pads without replacing the discs?
Yes, you can, if the thickness of the brake disc is normal and there are no deep grooves or cracks on it. However, if the rotor is very worn, the new pads may not fit tightly, which will reduce braking performance and lead to squealing.
Do I need to change the caliper guides every time I replace the pads?
No, they only need to be changed if the boots are damaged or if they are stuck. If the guides move freely and the boots are intact, it is enough to clean them of old grease and apply new one. Replacement is carried out only if defects are identified.
Why did a squeak appear after replacing the pads?
Creaking can be caused by several reasons: lack of lubrication on the back of the pads or guides, poor-quality pads, or the need to grind in new elements. Also check that the anti-squeak plates are not deformed.