Brake system Nissan Almera Classic is one of the most important elements of vehicle safety and requires regular maintenance. The rear brakes on this model are often made in the form of a drum design, which creates certain difficulties when replacing consumables compared to disc counterparts. However, if you have a minimal set of tools and want to save on car service costs, performing this operation yourself is quite possible.
Many owners are faced with the question of when exactly to change the pads, since wear occurs unevenly depending on driving style and operating conditions. Ignoring signs of wear can result in brake drum or caliper damage, requiring much more expensive repairs in the future. In this article, we will analyze in detail the replacement process, the necessary tools and the intricacies of working with the handbrake mechanism so that you can do everything right the first time.
Preparing the workplace and necessary tools
Before starting work, it is extremely important to ensure a safe and comfortable environment for the task. You will need a lift, a pit, or reliable jacks with stands, since working with a car raised only on a jack is absolutely unsafe. Make sure the surface under the car is level and firm to avoid the risk of the car sliding.
The toolkit must be complete and tested, otherwise you may get stuck in the middle of the process. You will need: a set of sockets (including 14, 17 and 30 mm), pry bar, hammer, metal brush and penetrating lubricant such as WD-40. It is also necessary to have a new set of brake pads and, preferably, grease for the caliper guides.
Be sure to prepare a container to collect old brake dust, which is toxic and harmful to the respiratory tract. It is best to wear a respirator and safety glasses to avoid getting fine abrasive dust into your eyes or lungs while cleaning parts.
- 🔧 Set of wrenches and sockets (from 10 to 30 mm)
- 🧴 Penetrating lubricant (WD-40 or equivalent) for loosening stuck bolts
- 🛡️ Safety glasses and a respirator for working with brake dust
- 🪜 Reliable stands under the car body for safety
⚠️ Attention: Before starting work, be sure to block the front wheels with wheel chocks and apply the handbrake if it is not engaged when lifting the rear wheels. Working with the brake system requires maximum concentration and no haste.
Removing the wheel and inspecting the brake mechanism
The first step is to remove the wheel. Loosen the wheel bolts before the vehicle is jacked up to prevent wheel spin. After lifting the car and placing it on stands, you can finally unscrew the bolts and remove the wheel, opening access to the brake drum.
Now you need to remove the brake drum itself. On Nissan Almera Classic it often sits very tightly due to pad wear and the formation of a bead on the drum. If the drum cannot be removed by hand, try lightly tapping the inside of the disc with a hammer through a piece of wood to avoid damaging the metal, or use special pullers.
It is important to inspect the inner surface of the drum for cracks, deep scratches or wear. If the wear is critical, replacing the pads alone will not save the situation, and a groove or complete replacement of the drum will be required. Also check the condition of the springs and retainers that hold the pads inside.
- 🔨 Use a wooden spacer when tapping the drum with a hammer
- 👀 Carefully inspect the surface of the drum for deep grooves
- 🧹 Clean the mechanism from dust with a brush before disassembling
- Disk
- Drums
- I don't know
- Mixed (rear drums)
Removing old brake pads
The process of dismantling old pads requires care, as they are held in place by many springs and clips. Start by removing the clips (pins) that hold the pads to the back bar. To do this, use a special tool or pliers to press out the spring mechanism and turn the lock.
After removing the clips, carefully remove the upper and lower springs, being careful not to damage them or drop them into the mechanism. The top spring is usually stiffer and can spring back abruptly, so keep it under control. The lower spring is often attached to the handbrake lever, which adds complexity.
The next step is to disconnect the handbrake cable from the rear shoe lever. This must be done carefully so as not to break the plastic or metal clamp at the end of the cable. If the cable is soured, treat the joint with penetrating lubricant and carefully loosen it.
⚠️ Attention: When removing the springs, be extremely careful, as they are under tension and can break out of your hands, causing injury or getting lost in hard-to-reach places.
- 🔩 Use long-nose pliers to easily remove the fasteners
- 🔗 Disconnect the handbrake cable only after removing all springs
- 📸 Take a photo of the assembly before disassembling so you don’t forget the installation order
☑️ Preparing to remove the pads
Installing new pads and tuning
Installation of new pads begins with fitting and checking their compliance with the old parts. Apply special high-temperature grease to the contact points between the pads and the base plate, but under no circumstances allow the grease to come into contact with the friction linings. This is critical for braking performance.
Reassemble the mechanism in the reverse order: first install the pads, then put on the springs and secure the clamps. Pay special attention to the handbrake lever, which should move freely and return to its original position without jamming. The handbrake cable must be tensioned so that the shoes do not rub against the drum when not in use.
After assembling the mechanism, it is necessary to adjust the gap between the pads and the drum. On Nissan Almera Classic this is often done automatically the first time you press the brake pedal after installing the drum, but sometimes manual adjustment is required through the access hole on the rear cover. Use a screwdriver to turn the adjuster until it lightly touches the drum shoes.
How to properly lubricate the guides?
Use only special lubricants for brake systems (for example, silicone or copper based). Regular oils and grease can soften the rubber boots and cause the caliper to jam. Apply a thin layer of lubricant only to the metal guides and contact points with the base plate.
Before installing the drum, make sure that all springs are in place and not twisted. Install the drum onto the hub and secure it. If it does not fit, you may not have the brake pads fully extended or the handbrake mechanism may be depressed. Release the handbrake and try again.
- 🛢️ Use only specialized lubricant for brake mechanisms
- 🔄 Check the free play of the handbrake lever before installing the drum
- 🔍 Adjust the gap through the technological hole if the drum does not stand up
Before final assembly, check the condition of the hub seal. If you see oil leaks or seal damage, replace the seal now to avoid problems in the future.
Control check and test driving
After installing all wheels and lowering the vehicle to the ground, it is necessary to perform a control check of the brake system. Sit in the car and press the brake pedal all the way down several times. You should feel the pedal become harder, indicating that the shoes are properly engaged with the drum.
Check the operation of the handbrake. It should keep the car on the slope when raising the lever 3-5 clicks. If the lever rises too high or the machine rolls, the cable will need to be readjusted or the mechanism tightened.
The first kilometers of movement should be done in a gentle manner. Avoid hard braking and high speeds, as new pads take time to break in to the drum surface. Listen for abnormal sounds: Squeaking, squealing, or grinding sounds may indicate improper installation or the presence of foreign objects.
⚠️ Attention: If you feel the brake pedal pounding or hear a loud noise after replacement, stop immediately and check for proper assembly. Driving with incorrectly installed brake pads can be life-threatening.
| Parameter | Normal value | Critical wear | Recommendation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Friction lining thickness | More than 3 mm | Less than 1.5 mm | Replacing the kit |
| Return spring length | No deformation | Stretched or broken | Spring replacement |
| Pad clearance | 0.2-0.5 mm | Missing or too large | Mechanism adjustment |
| Drum condition | Smooth surface | Deep risks, cracks | Grooving or replacement |
Proper breaking in of new pads takes about 200-300 kilometers of quiet driving, during which the braking distance may be slightly longer than usual.
Typical mistakes and their consequences
One of the most common mistakes is using the wrong tools when removing fasteners. An attempt to squeeze them out with ordinary pliers can lead to breakage of the clamps themselves or damage to the threads in the base plate, which will make further assembly impossible without replacing parts.
Another common mistake is ignoring the condition of the handbrake cable. If the cable is soured or damaged, replacing the pads will not have the desired effect and the handbrake will no longer perform its functions. In such cases, it is recommended to replace the cable along with the pads.
Also, many people forget to clean the pad seats from rust and dirt. This causes the new pads to be unable to adhere tightly to the backing plate, causing uneven wear and reduced braking performance. Cleaning should be thorough, but without using aggressive chemicals that can damage the rubber elements.
What to do if the handbrake cable does not unscrew?
Do not use excessive force to avoid breaking the thread. Apply penetrating lubricant generously to the joint and allow it to sit for 10-15 minutes. Try gently rocking the cable in different directions to break up the rust. If all else fails, you may have to cut the cable and replace it entirely.
Incorrect clearance adjustment can cause the pads to constantly rub against the drum even when released. This causes overheating of the brakes, increased fuel consumption and rapid wear of all components. The adjustment must be carried out with caution, checking the result by turning the wheel.
- 🚫 Do not use ordinary tools to press out fasteners without experience
- 🧼 Clean the seats from rust before installing new parts
- 🔧 Check the condition of the handbrake cable every time you replace the pads
Conclusion and final recommendations
Replacing rear brake pads with Nissan Almera Classic is a task that any car owner who is willing to devote time and attention to detail can handle. The main thing is not to rush, follow the sequence of actions and use high-quality consumables. Properly performed work guarantees safe and comfortable driving.
Regular diagnostics of the brake system will allow you to identify problems in time and avoid costly repairs. Do not forget to check the condition of the pads every 10-15 thousand kilometers, especially if you often operate the car in urban environments with frequent stops.
Remember that safety on the road depends not only on the serviceability of the car, but also on your attentiveness. If you doubt your abilities or do not have the necessary tools, it is better to entrust this work to professionals in a specialized service. However, if you decide to do everything yourself, this instruction will become your reliable assistant.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
How often do you need to change the rear pads on a Nissan Almera Classic?
Typically, rear drum pads last longer than front disc pads and require replacement every 60-80 thousand kilometers. However, the exact period depends on driving style and the quality of the road surface. It is recommended to check their condition at every maintenance.
What to do if the brake drum cannot be removed?
If the drum is jammed, try treating the mounting area with penetrating lubricant and gently tapping it with a hammer through a piece of wood. As a last resort, you can use a drum puller or try to unscrew the adjusting mechanism through the technological hole to move the pads apart.
Is it possible to change pads on only one axle?
Strongly not recommended. Brake pads should be replaced in pairs on the same axle (both rear wheels) to ensure even braking. Replacing only one pad can cause the car to skid when braking.
Do I need to change the handbrake cable when replacing the pads?
This is not necessary, but is highly desirable if the cable has signs of corrosion, abrasion or is tight. The new cable will ensure reliable operation of the handbrake and eliminate problems in the future.
Why do you hear a squeaking sound after replacing the pads?
Creaking can occur due to the lack of running-in of new pads, the presence of dust or dirt on the contact surfaces, or the use of low-quality consumables. In most cases, the squeak goes away after 100-200 km.